-Dallen

The USS Syren will be my 4th attempt to match the high quality of the models many of you create here on this great website.. I am actually  going to build a model of the USS Argus, but since nobody makes this kit, I will make some modifications to the USS Syren to create the USS Argus.
 
The model kit is supposed to be in the mail. I bought it from Model Expo.

Mike:
This is just my opinion of the kit - offered as another viewpoint not argument.
 
I built the Chaperon when it was first released.  I thought it was one of the best engineered kits produced and except for rigging materials I didn't find that the materials provided were not of good quality - with the exception of the very small square strip wood meant to represent the battens on the board and batten cabin siding.  I replaced this with cherry strips I cut.  I know that woods can vary from time to time so your might not be as good as mine were.
 
As to the plans, I thought they were exceptionally well done - the isometric views can help the builder see the model in 3D unlike the standard 2D 3 views of most plans.  The plans provided adequate full size drawings for the parts that needed to be sized to the plans.  There are inaccuracies - the hog posts do not extend down into the hull.  The pilothouse windows need to be reworked - small panes of glass were not used in the front windows of riverboats. 
 
But, the faults do not take away from this kit being by far one of the best riverboat kits on the market.  I had a lot of research materials for this boat as well as a prototype of the original kit that Model Shipway's never actually produced - 1/8" scale, solid hull.  I knew the inaccuracies of the original plans and shared details with the kit designer - not all were corrected as the kit was pretty far along in development but it turned out to be a great kit in my opinion.
 
The photos attached are of my model - the bow on view - and the other is of the model built by Sam Parent that was entered in the 2016 contest at the WI Maritime Museum.  Sam's model corrected the hog posts and added the monkey rudders behind the stern wheel - this was a feature found on many riverboats but not on the original Chaperon - he named the model Barbara Ann after his wife.  Sam added a lot more details than I had included - it is a great model - and earned a gold medal.
 
Anyway, I know you will enjoy building the Chaperon.  I will be happy to share details of the pilot house windows and the hog chains and their turnbuckles.  I could not believe that the kit included photo etched turnbuckles!  Flat brass at this scale just doesn't cut it.
 
Take care,
Kurt

Hi Len,
 
If you haven't, search on Chaperon or even riverboat here in MSW.  You should find builds.. both modified and out of the box of various riverboats.  It might be big help for ideas and also some of the pitfalls.

Hello one and all,
                          I'm one model in from a brand new newbie, I have just completed the Emma C. Berry and now waiting anxiously for Model Shipways Chaperon Sternwheel 1:48 scale to arrive. The Emma was a pleasure to build from opening the box to cleaning my brushes and packing away my paints.
 I'm also new to boats so I'll be looking for some advise to help me along.
 
I have a plan as too how I want it to look but like all good plans things change if the bar was set a little to high. My intent is to do the following:-
 
Build the kit as is 'out the box' with the well documented modifications to the pilot house windows and a few other changes that are still tbd. I plan to add more detailing and hopefully some suitable cargo, I'll see how it goes.
 
Aging and weathering the Chaperon will also be a fun task. This is something else I have never tackled however I used to paint oil on canvas pictures many years ago so I hope I still have a modest flair with a brush.
 
Last but not least I hope to identify the pitfalls and issues for other new builders to heed and hopefully there may be a few out there with a similar build to bounce ideas around. I obviously welcome any and all hints and tips from anyone who graciously follows this build log and sincerely hope it is useful and fun to  follow.
 
Special thanks to Kurt Van Dahm for getting me kicked off in the right direction, very much appreciated.
 
Finally, all I need now is a model it was shipped on the 3rd Jan so likely steaming it's way up the Green River as I type.
 
Thanks for reading, hope to cross paths soon.
 
Len aka Blighty.
 
 
 

Hi, Derek.
The crew was divided into two watches, port and starboard.  One half was always 'on deck', the other half 'below'.  For berthing purposes, they were split into pairs with one from each watch.  That pair's hammocks were slung next to each other and were stowed in the nettings together.  At the appropriate time, the off watch partner would go to the nettings and take his and his partner's hammocks below, hanging each from the hooks, battens, whatever.  He unrolled his and left his partner's lashed up into a tube.  When the watch changed, the one who had been on deck unlashed his hammock and slept, while the one who had been below went on deck for his watch.  There were thus only half the hammocks being used at any one time.
There is additional info in 'Most Fortunate Ship', about USF Constitution by Cmdr. Ty Martin, including fire watches, sentries, meals, etc.

I have the Stew Mac Dremel base.  I bought it for routing out inlays in guitar necks.  I used it for a while but in the end it found its way to the dust shelf.  I didn't like the depth adjustment feature.  And the dust blower didn't work too well either.  I ended up buying the Micro Fence plunge base.  Expensive but a world of difference from the Stew Mac base.
 
 
With the LED lights and dust extraction, I was able to clearly see where I was routing to some very fine points.

 
A few months ago I got a flyer from Lee Valley.  They now have a plunge base that looks very similar to Micro Fence and a lot cheaper.
 

 
The base alone is $85.  Had their base and attachments been available a couple of years ago, I would have gladly gone that route.     

Response from StewMac;
 
Thank you for contacting us.  We are waiting on some machine parts from our production facility, before we can list this item as "in stock".  We hope to have all items available later this week. You can always sign up to receive an email when this item is ready, by clicking the "email when in stock" link under the item number.
If you have any other questions or comments, please contact us.

Best regards, 

Jayme Arnett
Customer Service Manager
Stewart-MacDonald

Welcome aboard.  I would personally recommend that you avoid the paint from Model Expo.  Get the same colors in a quality paint like Vallejo (which Model Expo also carries) which doesn't cost any more and is much better quality paint.
 
As far as tools go, I'm in the "you get what you pay for" camp on tools, and 95% of the 'cheapo' tools I started with are no longer in use, but the hobby knife is always useful!
 
Good luck and have fun!

No problem, here are the values for the regular frames from Elements of Naval Architecture (Steel):
 
floor timber: 12 1/2''
1st futtock: 13''
2nd futtock: 11''
3rd futtock: 10 1/2''
4th futtock: 10 1/4''
top timber: 10''
 
Source: Allan Yedlinsky: Scantlings of Royal navy Ships 1719-1805, SeaWatchBooks LLC, 2014

Looking really good.   On the paper problem.... punch numerous (the more, the better) holes in the paper with a pin.  Right now you have wood, glue, paper bond.  The holes should help some.   You might try, if you can find it, is some wood glue that tinted or get some artists pigment (powder) and tint your own glue to the color and shade you want. 

The kit is likely wrong if it's indicating a second block at deck level, in my opinion. To fly the ensign a line ( the lightest line on the entire rig) runs from the rail, up to the gaff peak then right back to the rail. Both ends of this line are on deck when no flag is hoisted. To fly the ensign,You tie the two ends to your ensign at the upper and lower corners of the hoist of the flag and then haul away on only one leg of the halyard, the one that makes the flag ascend right side up.- if you haul on the wrong part the flag ascends upside down. When the flag is fully hoisted you now treat the two ends of the halyard as a single line and belay them together either on a pin or with a simple knot such as a clove hitch to any convenient point that is as far aft as possible and will also keep the halyard clear of any other lines. The second block at deck level would only be handy very briefly at the middle stage of this process -and only if the gaff remained in one predetermined position-but would instantly become a hinderance when you tried to belay the two ends of the halyard. The reality is that the gaff moves quite a bit in relation to the deck and the length of the halyard-which must remain taught so as to keep the ensign flying properly-changes by several feet on every tack and must be constantly adjusted. You could try to rig a lead block on th boom and have a pin or cleat accessible to those on deck farther inboard on the boom, but now the halyard will effect the shape of the sail and suffer continuous chafe. The schooners I sail on solve all this by simply bending the ensign directly to the leach of the sail, avoiding the halyard completely. But a ship of war would need options for ensign visibility that this would not allow.

You don't necessarily need a pin rack, just a cleat, maybe one each side for when the ship tacks.

Pretty much how I understood it. However the kit only provides for two blocks so I'm puzzled over how one belays what is "in effect" a running hoist broken only by the loop and toggle for fixing the flag.
I'm to far on with the kit to now go back and provide some belaying pin racks at the stern.
 
Rick

The belaying pin has the advantage that if the gaff moves further from the belay point the halliard can be lengthened to accomodate the new position and belayed again.  I have seen diagrams with a belay point on the boom, but this also I think would need to be adjusted as the boom and gaff changed relationship with each other.  Different size ensigns also would need more or less line, as the halliard was not permanently fixed with hooks or toggles, but the flag went into a gap or break in the line with loop and toggle.  When no flag was flown, the ends of the halliard would be hitched together to maintain the integrity of the line.

I'm at the stage of rigging my cutter "Lady Nelson" and am puzzling over the flag hoist. Both the plans and Petersson agree that a block is roved to the tip of the gaff but then differ in that Petersson has the "loose" ends run down to a belaying pin whilst the kit indicates a continuous loop running through a second block fixed to a ring bolt by the rudder. Using this latter system, once the flag is hoist how does it then remain hoist? I'm assuming that the apparent continuous loop does in fact have a loop and toggle clipped together when no flag attached, otherwise fixed to the flag appropriately.
(Hope this makes sense).
 
Rick 

Sarah,
 
I am so sorry to hear of your dads passing. His passion for his hobby must have brought much joy to the entire family.
 
I live nearby in lower Fairfield County and would love to have the opportunity to obtain one of his models. I belong to
the Connecticut Marine Modelers Society that gathers each month at the University of New Haven. In our 50 years of
existence we have experienced several of our members "pass over the bar", so to speak, leaving their families with the
same decision. Perhaps we can offer some help as many of our 40 members live in this part of Connecticut. Not sure 
how you can contact me privately but am sure one of the administrators will help.
 
John Elwood
Stratford, CT

Sarah you should try your local library they would love to have them for display.

Mark

All of the above. If that fails, talk to a local auction house, you will not get much, but you will know that  the new owner paid hard-earned cash for them. Look out for interior designers, they like exotic items. Bars and restaurants with a sailing or nautical theme are another option.

Sarah,
 
Some time ago there was a discussion of this topic. If you look up "where do models go" on the search function you will find it under General Nautical Discussion.
 
You will find a post from me suggesting that models be donated to fund raising events in support of organizations that offer youth sailing programs. Of particular interest are "Community Sailing Programs." These programs typically offer,low cost sailing lessons and boat use to everyone. Here in Duluth ours began as part of our city's Parks and Recreation Department. At least this way your dad's models will wind up in the hands of someone with a sailing interest. You live close to a hotbed of sailing so you should be able to find an organization.
 
Yes! By all means, post some pictures. We would all like to have a chance to appreciate your dad's work.
 
Roger

My condolences on your dad's passing; it is a difficult time to work through such decisions. Have you considered contacting various public entities, such as libraries or government offices, who might want to have something attractive on display? Placed in a nice case, a beautiful model can inspire and engage people passing by every day, even if the office isn't directly related to anything nautical. Perhaps even a retirement home or other care facility might have a corner where patients might enjoy the sight of such a visually interesting piece of artwork. In other words, I'd say cast a wide net for public facilities that might be "spruced up" by one of your dad's models. Even a local restaurant, law office, or other business might be willing to include one in their decor somewhere; it can't hurt to ask, especially as you are not looking to sell them.
 
Best of luck to you. Models are tough, as most of their inherent value is to the builder and their immediate relations. I hope you can find a way to help your dad's work live on and inspire others.

Hello,
 
I am a new member and the daughter of a someone who made ship modeling his life's passion. Dad has now passed away, and after giving part of his collection of ship models to family and friends, we are left with 7 ships that we'd like to give to someone, anyone, who might appreciate them. His favorite is a replica of Flying Cloud. I don't know the names of the other ships, but I can provide photos next week.
 
We're not looking to sell them. We just can't bear the thought of throwing them in a dumpster, since Dad put so much love and care into each hand-carved hull and put meticulous detail into every single project. Any advice on what we can do with these beautiful models? We are located in northwest Connecticut. Thank you!
 
Sarah Day
 

With such detail I have visions of pilot house and deck lighting.

You're right, Mark - she really is looking like a frigate now!  Excellent job.
 
John

Looking good Mark. Sorry to hear of Janet's health issues - best wishes to you both for improvement there.

Thanks for the comments, the "likes" and just looking in...  
 
At last, a real update as life (the Admiral's health) got in the way.  The frame extensions have been removed and she's starting to look more like a frigate.   I still need to sand them down to the sheer strake but I'll be doing that when I need a break from the gundeck work.
 
Here's the pictures...  as always, a click on them will open them to full size (or what constitutes full size on MSW).  The last two are more of a reference shot for examining things on my part but I thought I'd toss them in anyway.  Sorry about the sawdust and mess.....