garyshipwright

Hi Allan. You must be talking about the transom and the counter timber's David has a good article in vol 2 of his TFFM book, page 9/11. EdT also has a good article in his book of the Naiad Frigate vol two chapter 20.  When I built Montague/Alfred I followed John Franklin articles in Model Shipwright Part 2 page 29. Just a ideal on how to get the curve aft and the curve up, first make the curve up on the right size piece of wood, thickness wise and then cut out the curve aft. I added some photo's that might help you. Gary

Rest In peace Bob and our prayer's are with you. May  your sail's always be full, and we will miss you very much. Gary

Now I'm experimenting with blue,
I have the friezes printed on a laser printer.
I just can't decide what blue to use as a base for the gallery columns and later for the transom because there is a bit of a difference in the friezes for the hull than for the friezes for the top and bottom counters and transom.
I am testing Vallejo model color.
I like this mix the best.
6 drops of Prussian blue, 5 drops of flat yellow and 4 drops of white.
I can't get a good photo of it so I took a scan where the color presentation is better.
What do you think?
Or Isn't there a good graphic designer who can adjust the colors of the friezes ?

Amalio she is outstanding and a work of art. You could display  her next to the Mona Lisa and your's would be the work of art that shines. Gary

Amalio she is outstanding and a work of art. You could display  her next to the Mona Lisa and your's would be the work of art that shines. Gary

The Christmas holidays were very productive, I was in a rush to get as much done as possible before going back to school, so here is a summary.
 
I started by carving the structure before gluing everything, to make 2 false decks under the gratings which will be illuminated. I drilled a lot of holes for the wire runs. The protection of the oven was scratch built. 
 


 
 
To save glue for the decks, I tried double-sided tape, with a few dots of glue, and it works! The joints were simulated with a pencil, but for the most visible bridge, I cut 8 cm planks, to show the joints and to have different textures between 2 planks end to end. It was very long but the result is much more realistic.
 

 
 
 As the stern will be illuminated and visible, I printed a tile pattern (drawn on Sketchup), as well as bulkheads, which won't be too visible. This result works perfectly for me! I added a small table with 2 chairs, and I replaced the portholes in windows on each side.
 
 
 


The bow structure was reinforced to have a better support for the planking, which required a lot of sanding...
 
 

I relocated a window in the stern by raising it, which was low to the deck ( just like on the real ship) and I didn't like it, so I aligned it with the other smaller ones. Also, I have started to build the interior bulkheads, but I am stuck because I have lost a window...
 
 
 


 
 
 
To blacken the brass, I used AK burnisher. The reaction is a bit slow but with only a little bit of product, I was able to burnish all 140 rings as well as some diecast parts!
 

 
 
 
Here is the progress in 2 weeks, I'm very happy with the result with the LEDs, I'm sure it will be the future masterpiece of my collection!
 
 
 

Hi Mark. Here is a couple of photo's of the cheeks and they items made for them. Its been awhile since I made them but believe I used a piece of curved wood to get the right curve on them using a heat gun after putting water on them. Hope it help's Gary 

Hi Ben. Here is a photo of my Alfred that shows how I did the main partner on her and laid out the forward hatch. Hope that is of some help

Hi Maury
 you are absolutely correct that if there is a lot of pressure when pulling the stock through the draw plate that mounting it in a table top vice helps greatly with the stress of pulling it through the plate. I found this particularly true with hard wood stock where it is difficult to get the raw stock small enough. But with Bamboo i found it quite easy to reduce the size of the stock down to  say .030 which means that you can literally pull the treenail stock  through the plate without using the thong puller to get down to .020. Most of the time i was able to get to .020 without any pulling device at all, just with my fingers. The technique was getting to split the bamboo and the hammer was the tool that did that so effectively. Also if for some reason i was having difficulty getting it into the next hole, simply backtracking to the previous hole easily solved the problem. I any case my wife would not allow a bench top vice to be located on our porch in Tobago while i sat  on the chair in our porch  , on the golf course. Haha.  

Years ago I built my French 74 gun ship upside down, mounted in H. Hahn's building base, following his method (sort of). I remember, I had to add (draw) the remaining frames, since J. Boudriot only has shown in his books the so called, station frames. The hull turned out OK, not perfect though, but - for the first scratch built, Admiralty type model, - acceptable.
Right now I am starting to install the running rigging on it.
Thomas

Thanks Druxey and Oliver. Well who know's, maybe if I practice a bit more I just may get good at it, taking pictures that is. The table is a blessing. It has height adjustment and tilt now and its a back saver. Wish I had done this years ago and really getting lot's of use out of it .  Really make's working on her a lot more enjoyable. Again thanks guy's. 

Hi guy's. Here's a update on the build but this time it is more about her building board. I add a way of being able to tilt her from side to side  which helps keep the back in tack and a lot easier getting to thing's.  I worked on a couple of hanging knee's and being tilted made it a lot better.  I can't take the Credit for it which goes to  Alan/AON and the tech info on it. Hope you enjoy the pictures and any question will be more then happy to answer them

Merry Christmas every one and a Happy New year. Hope that every one get's what that want and lot's of it. Gary

May you have the same Mark, look forward in hearing and seeing more of your build and just talking to you and all the other good folks here on the site. Happy New year. Gary

Hi Christain. We are doing ok and every body stayed home so the deep freeze isn't affecting us to much. We are all getting together Monday to celebrate Chistmas. Figure the roads will be cleared by then.  Hope every one is doing great and Happy New year.

May you have the same Mark, look forward in hearing and seeing more of your build and just talking to you and all the other good folks here on the site. Happy New year. Gary

Hi All
 
Thanks for the nice comments and Tobias what a great photo!!  So I hope you have all had a nice Xmas and are looking forward to new year.
 
Ok another update from me - I've been getting on to get the ceiling finished and at last I'm very glad to say that it is.
 
A couple more pictures of the process
 


Here's some pictures of it looking very rough and ready.  All of the planks are on but without any sanding and also all of the nails are in place.
 


Pictures of the final sanded finish - There are some gaps but overall I'm quite happy with the way its turned out.
 





Its taken ages to do but but I'm finally there - I've learnt a lot about ceiling planking and I could definitely do better next time around.
 
So next I'll be making the two other lower breast hooks and the stern sleepers.  It'll be nice to actually make a part again  
 
Cheers Mark

Hi Mark. Here is a couple of photo's of the cheeks and they items made for them. Its been awhile since I made them but believe I used a piece of curved wood to get the right curve on them using a heat gun after putting water on them. Hope it help's Gary 

Thought I would add some close up photo's of Montague.  I was on the NRG site and came across the article by Kurt on taking photo's of ones work and figure I needed to practice  a bit. Guess I have to find a little space for a photo booth when  taking good photo's of my ship.  Well guys one day maybe I get the hang of taking good photo's, hope you enjoy the close up. Gary

Well good sir's I just about have the forward capstan completed, just need to add  a few more items to the upper capstan and then I can get started on the main one. Gary 

Thought I would add some close up photo's of Montague.  I was on the NRG site and came across the article by Kurt on taking photo's of ones work and figure I needed to practice  a bit. Guess I have to find a little space for a photo booth when  taking good photo's of my ship.  Well guys one day maybe I get the hang of taking good photo's, hope you enjoy the close up. Gary

Hi guy's. Here's a update on the build but this time it is more about her building board. I add a way of being able to tilt her from side to side  which helps keep the back in tack and a lot easier getting to thing's.  I worked on a couple of hanging knee's and being tilted made it a lot better.  I can't take the Credit for it which goes to  Alan/AON and the tech info on it. Hope you enjoy the pictures and any question will be more then happy to answer them

Thanks so much, Gary and Alan, just when I think I know the name of everything, then I discover yet more to know...
 
The lining proved yet more difficult to fasten than I expected. I could not get a clean shot at clamping the outboard end firmly to the hull. So I made a special clamp, with a pad shaped to the end of the lining. either my clamps could not reach that far over the edge, or they were so fat I couldn't see if things were bedded home or not. So thin legs on the new clamp gave a good view and also applied pressure at just the right place.
 
Then it all worked out:
 


And a first look at the second layer, which still needs steaming. And the hawse holes penciled in:

Mark