Jump to content
MSW Spring Donation Drive

drobinson02199

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    919

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by drobinson02199

  1. drobinson02199
    Beautiful work, Don Regards, David
  2. drobinson02199
    Spyglass -- Thanks for the log references. I really love your cannon rigging, but it runs beyond my level of ambition or patience -- particularly the metal drilling, which is always a daunting prospect for me. When I built the Mount Washington, there was metal drilling called for and I couldn't get it to happen, so I bailed out with CA glue (fortunately, I wasn't building a running model). Regards, David
  3. drobinson02199
    Chris: I also really like that parquet planking pattern. Was that in the kit plans, or something you just did? The doors are also really nice looking. You have a real talent for very clean workmanship. Regards, David
  4. drobinson02199
    Chris: Yes, I painted the carriage the red color with brown wheels. Also had to paint the cannons black. Here's a snip from the Amati photos of the Fly showing how they have rigged them, which is the way I'm going to do it. If you go in for more elaborate rigging, then you'd build the wood carriages so that eyelets can be installed. Regards, David
  5. drobinson02199
    Here's what my cannons will look like. The upgrade kit supplies wood parts for carriages (second picture), but I think the detail on the cast metal carriages is more interesting, so that's what I'm using. I think they call it an upgrade because it permits installation of more complex cannon rigging, which I'm not going to do. Regards, David
  6. drobinson02199
    Chris: She is really looking terrific, and from your pics, it looks like you have yet another deck or structure to add on. She will be impressive! Regards, David
  7. drobinson02199
    Have now put the main wale on. I pre-shaped and pre-painted each plank before mounting, and then added a second coat of black on the surface after mounting. These pics are after a second coat of varnish. More of that to come. With the wale on to provide contrast and separation, the multi-color planks look as I had planned for them to. I studied the drawings and a number of Fly build logs, and Amati's pics, to figure out both the vertical placement of the wale, and how it terminates at the stern. The drawings vary at the stern from all of the build pics I saw, and from Amati's pics. So I took out the stern decoration to see how it will fit, and realized that until I get to doing the stern decoration, I won't really know where exactly to end the top two wale planks, in order to achieve a clean join with the decoration. So as shown in the second picture, I've left those planks slightly extended for later trimming and fixing when I get to that point. I used the vertical placement at the stern that I saw in the pictures, and that best seemed to fit where that decoration will end. Regards, David
  8. drobinson02199
    Brian: I had picked up on the light/dark planking wood from looking at some other Fly build logs, and I actually like the look of the mixed wood on the hull, which I don't intend to paint. So before I started the second layer, I separated the planking walnut into dark and light, and then alternated them in patterns of light/dark/light and light-light/dark-dark/light-light. I left all light wood in the area where the black wale will go so that there is some space between that and any surrounding dark planks. I can understand how some might not like this look -- but I liked it in earlier logs and thought I'd use it. Regards, David
  9. drobinson02199
    I've finished the second planking and given it a first coat of varnish, which is still drying in the pics below. A few comments: There's no way I'm going to paint this hull -- I love natural wood and this wood is particularly beautiful, as I've seen in other Fly build logs. The bow view shows how I sorted out the bow planking -- and thanks to a number of you who provided suggestions and comments on this. You may see some varnish drip on the stern counter -- I will deal with that in later varnish coats. One thing that may not show is something I discovered while sanding. I used an Amati plank bender -- the kind that uses a blade to crimp lateral compressions into the back of a plank. What happened in two small areas of the bow is that while sanding, the edges of those compressions came through. The blade must not put an even cut into the back of the plank. It's not a big deal -- could almost pass for coloration in the wood -- and won't be that noticeable. It for sure isn't correctable. In the future on the second planking, I'll use steam only -- which was very effective and could have been used to accomplish everything I did with the plank bender. Oh, well -- live and learn. Regards, David
  10. drobinson02199
    Thanks, Spyglass. I realize that it's a deviation from "real practice", but I think my models are probably full of deviations. I've never been able to motivate myself to go from "looks good" to "historically accurate". Regards, David
  11. drobinson02199
    Chris: Thanks so much for that Facebook reference. It's a very detailed log, and will help me a lot when I'm trying to figure out something that isn't clear in the drawings. Regards, David
  12. drobinson02199
    Mike: When I built the Grand Banks Heritage 46 it had laser cut planks, and I noticed that narrow-wide-narrow plank shape. Here's the way I did it on the Revenge, and the approach I'm planning to use here. I did taper, but I changed the planking pattern partway down (working top to bottom), and it's that first changed plank that I was referring to when I said 6 inches back. Regards, David
  13. drobinson02199
    Mike: When I built the Grand Banks Heritage 46 it had laser cut planks, and I noticed that narrow-wide-narrow plank shape. Here's the way I did it on the Revenge, and the approach I'm planning to use here. I did taper, but I changed the planking pattern partway down (working top to bottom), and it's that first changed plank that I was referring to when I said 6 inches back. Regards, David
  14. drobinson02199
    Dave: Right -- Chuck Passaro was the one. For what it's worth, using a steamer and then a hair dryer works well for me, and I don't need as much hair dryer time as he was using (I'm impatient too ). This steamer I'm using now is reasonably new, and it puts out a lot of steam. Regards, David
  15. drobinson02199
    Thanks, Dave. I'm keeping an eye on that. Overall at the bow, I'm going to use the same planking plan I did for the Revenge, in which about 1/3 of the way down I stop the edge bending and start terminating the planks according to their natural run, so that the next plank will end flush with and against the plank above, about 6 or so inches from the bow. Then the next plank terminates the same way but closer to the bow, and so forth. Once I reach the bow I start running down the keel at the front. All of those planks will be tapered as I reach the bow, and I start measuring the amount of taper so it will work out (hopefully!!). I'll also start tapering the edge bent planks after the next couple are laid. I'm trying to follow the same proportions I used on the Revenge, where it worked out really well. Regards, David
  16. drobinson02199
    This is my edge bending setup for the second layer. I got this from a video that I found somewhere in MSW, that was done by an expert modeler at one of the MSW shows. He used a hair dryer only -- I use steam and then a hair dryer. Plank clamped on my worktable with the center clamp imparting a bend (it's just up against the side of the plank -- not gripping it). This pic also shows my steamer and hair dryer. The routine is clamp, steam, increase the bend once the wood is wet, steam again, then hair dryer for 30 seconds per section. Close up of bend. The plank after two bending passes. The plank on the boat before gluing -- note that it bends away from the planks above it. The plank now glued. Note that it's flat to the hull, with not very much edge showing on the plank above -- easily sanded. I also find that the steamer really works well on this walnut to soften it for bending. See the stern bend here, which is a 90 degree twist. The steamer only takes 5-10 seconds to soften the wood. Regards, David
  17. drobinson02199
    Chris: The wood filler is easily damaged if left "naked" on the hull, and varnish seals it in. Varnish also gives me a surface that grips the second layer just a bit more slowly, so I have time to align things. But the sealing of the filler is the main reason. Regards, David
  18. drobinson02199
    Wood filler and sanding applied to first planking, plus a coat of varnish. Now ready for second planking. Regards, David
  19. drobinson02199
    First planking done with one rough sanding pass. Now wood filler and sand, sand, sand. Regards, David
  20. drobinson02199
    Antony: Just found this fabulous build, and I'm on board to watch the rest of the way. Your prowess (and ambition) with scratch builds is terrific. Regards, David
  21. drobinson02199
    I want to thank Blue Ensign for his really great advice -- and for stating it strongly so that I'd have the motivation to rip out planks and go back. So I did just what B.E. recommended above. You can see the removal and the re-do in the pics below. Much, much better plank line, and I can see how the former one would have not just "led to problems down the line", but actually have been a disaster. I have to confess that I found the drawings not very helpful in understanding how the stern should look, and I was also led astray by the initial size of the second bulkhead. I assumed (wrongly) that it would have been made closer to its target size. What helped a lot was scouring all of the build logs on Fly, which helped me understand how the lower stern counter mates with the planking. The drawings were just a mystery to me. Again, thanks and kudos to Blue Ensign. Regards, David
  22. drobinson02199
    Mike: Thank you so much for the substantial time you put into that post. I have been tapering the planks at the bow, but I may start further back as you suggest. Your stern bend on the Pegasus looks shallower than mine on the Fly. That's either because the ships are different in that regard, or maybe I should have beveled that last bulkhead more to create a shallower drop -- but it's too late now. I see what you mean about the stealers. I have looked at the other Fly logs and can't get a good handle on whether their bend is as steep as mine. I haven't worried a lot about the side effect of pulling the stern planks over to align them, again because sanding and wood filler are my best friends on layer 1. Not so with the second planking. When I built the Revenge, I edge bent the second planks using clamps, a steamer and a hair dryer. It takes a long time, but they really lay well when I get it right. Lots of snake-like S-bent planks! Also lots of stealers where needed. Regards, David
  23. drobinson02199
    Mike: Thanks for all of this. Sanding and filler is in fact my very best friend -- I just think that I may for a change end up with more planks than filler on the first planking. You should see my earlier attempts -- tubs of filler You are right about the clinking, but these first planks are 1.5mm so plenty of room for sanding. On the stern: the sharp bend is there whether I try to align with the plank above or not. I have a really good steamer, and the cracks you see are partly a function of me being too impatient and not steaming enough. When I do steam enough, I can really move the planks where I want them. I have studied pictures and build logs to be sure I understand the run of planks at the stern -- and I think I do, although the plans are not terribly helpful on that score. From what I can figure out, that sharp bend is part of the deal on this boat. The stealer count will go up with the second planking. You said "from what I can recall." Have you built the Fly? I only see the Pegasus in your signature. If you have built the Fly, or if the Pegasus is similar, how did you handle the bend at the stern? (just the bend -- not the alignment part). Regards, David
  24. drobinson02199
    First planking underway. This is the smoothest and best-fitting first planking I've done to date, and I think the reason is that I beveled each bulkhead separately off the ship before installing it and gluing it it, testing each one with a test plank for fit. So far, things are lying nicely. Regards, David
  25. drobinson02199
    Bulwarks on and ready for first planking. The bottom edge of the rear bulkhead was springing out where it joins the front bulkhead, so I added a small stiffener behind it. Second picture. Mindful of advice above from Mike and Chris, I considered gluing down the top decks at this point (the instructions say to do it after both plankings). I finally decided to wait, on the off chance that while manipulating the hull so much during planking, I'd knock one of the cannon carriages loose. Speaking of the cannon carriages: the original ones are metal with some interesting detail, while the ones supplied in the upgrade kit are wood with smooth sides. I think that's because the wood allows for the fancier cannon rigging as eyes can be installed in the carriages, but I like the look of the metal ones, so I'll use those and the simpler rigging. Regards, David

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...