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Everything posted by drobinson02199
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Finished the bowsprit and went ahead and did the bowsprit yards and mounted them. The only rigging on the bowsprit so far is the yard lifts. I thought the bowsprit was the most complicated block/deadeye assembly I have encountered so far in modeling. I also included a shot of the full foremast, which I completed since my last post. Regards, David
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Thanks, Martin. I think I go fast and then slow, depending on what else is going on. I'm working on the bowsprit now, and there are a LOT of blocks to tie on. I think I'll do the bowsprit yards and attach them, and then shoot out another picture. Regards, David
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Antony: I am in astonished admiration at the beautiful quality and precision you have achieved in a scratch build. This is a masterpiece. Regards, David
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Finished the lower fore mast. It's just dry-fitted in the picture. Lots of detail and blocks to attach. I really like this kit, but one thing I don't much like is the instruction to dye natural thread black when a small diameter thread is needed. The reason given in the manual is that black thread gets brittle when glued, but there was plenty of it in the Revenge kit, which is a later Amati Victory series kit. So I'm using the leftover thread from that kit when I need thin black. Regards, David
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Chris: Yes, I do plan to rig them -- but I forgot and might have kept forgetting, so thanks for the reminder! Regards, David
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All deck fittings and gunport doors now done. Next step is masts, yards, and rigging. Regards, David
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Chris: Thanks. If by "what different" you mean mechanically, I glued an eyebolt into place and trimmed it. If you mean photographically, I cleaned my lens! It had some stuff on it in the previous pic, I think. Regards, David
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Spyglass: Great suggestion, which I took -- see picture and much improved rudder appearance. Re the barrels: I tested each carriage as I mounted it by making sure I could place a cannon through the windows -- particularly important because I framed the windows which makes them smaller. One or two are tight -- but I can get it done. Regards, David
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Spyglass -- Thanks for the comments. Some answers to your questions: 1) Yes, I am leaving the top rudder pintle unconnected on purpose. I did it because once it's on the shelf, only the really sharp eyed like you would notice, and getting the other three aligned was difficult -- and they were barely aligned -- so I didn't want to add a fourth one into that equation. There's actually a fifth one provided and showing in the Amati pics, but on my model there's no room for it. 2) The under deck gun carriages are painted and mounted in place, so I just have to insert the guns through the gun ports. I'm waiting to the very last for that so I don't hit one and knock the gun carriage loose. 3) Yes, again your sharp eyes picked up those notches. I acknowledged this in an earlier post, and it's a learning for me. It comes from the plank bender blade biting through on that side. I actually don't need the plank bender, as my steamer will take care of all the bend I need. I didn't notice those notches until after I had mounted the planks and I wasn't going to rip them out. So for finished planks, no more plank bender. It's fine for layer 1, but not layer 2. I didn't get this on the Revenge, so I think it must be some aging in the plank bender and misalignment of the blade. Regards, David
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Worked on channels: first picture shows channels with pins in. They are only 1.5mm, so it's delicate drilling. Second pic shows the channels installed on the ship. Regards, David
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I worked too hard on the stern gallery to have that off-center lettering spoil it, so I removed everything in that section, repainted, and remounted. This time I aligned the letters on a piece of paper, and then picked them up with a small piece of painting tape. Added glue, applied the set, and then peeled the tape. That did the trick. Regards, David
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[NOTE: I HAVE REDONE THE STERN PICTURED IN THIS POST. SEE WHY HERE AND THEN REDONE STERN IN NEXT POST] Finished the stern. "FLY" is not quite centered -- the letters are devilishly small, and the CA gel I use that typically gives me at least 5 sec to slide things into alignment decided to grab right away, so I ended up with the "L" closer to the "F" than I had planned, and that governed spacing to the "Y". Nevertheless, I'm happy with the stern decoration overall, and the green highlights worked well. Regards, David
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First side now finished, with addition of the stern side window and the top rail. I noticed that the stern side windows in the Amati pics and some other build logs are more simply painted, and having now done these with discrete window frames, I can see why. Lots of retouching multiple times. Now on to the other side, and then the stern fascia. Regards, David
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Decoration on first side completed (except for the large stern windows, which I'm painting now). The approach of using the window cutouts on the decorations worked really well and everything lined up. I also found that the best way to fit the decoration that abuts the curved endings of the top rail is to dry fit the rail and position it with the decoration dry-fitted, to get both right as it's a tight and exacting fit. Regards, David
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The lowest side rails are now in, and I have painted the hull above them, ready for decoration. I'm going to do this side all the way through first, so I can do the other side (which will be my display side) better if I learn anything unexpected. Regards, David
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I have started on the side rails. The instructions suggest fixing the lowest rail according to the plan drawings, then attaching the lower row of decorations, then fixing the next rail to the top of those, and so forth. When I went to the plans and took measurements, I wasn't confident in how they were matching the actual boat, and was concerned that the decorations would not line up properly -- would I miss the window alignment or something further up. Since the lower row of decorations has cutouts for the tops of the windows, the alignment of the decorations to the windows is really the critical thing. So per the attached picture, I aligned the decorations on the windows and taped them. Now I can install the lower rail up against them, and know that my starting point will work all the way up. Same thing going across the center -- I can align the top of the decoration to a dry-fitted second rail. Regards, David
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Bow detail completed, and I made plenty of mistakes -- if you are sharp eyed (or even not so sharp eyed) you'll be able to pick them out. Nevertheless, I'm satisfied with the overall look. Some notes: The instructions call for the figurehead's wrap and the small strips to be blue, but I like green better so I used that color. The lighter piece leading up to the cathead support is something I had to fabricate. The instructions call for brass strip to be "manipulated" into shape, but I tried it and got nowhere, so I used some leftover wide basswood. In retrospect, I should have cut it from a corner of one of the walnut ply laser sheets -- one of my several mistakes here. The instructions say to paint the brass yellow or gold, but I don't get the point. The brass in its natural color looks great. Figuring out what went where was something of a challenge given the instructions and drawings, but there are enough pics on the internet and in build logs that I was finally able to figure it out. There is also a pic showing some minor progress on the deck. Now on to the side rails and decorations. Looking forward to that. Regards, David
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Chris: I can't find true matt in the hardware stores here, so I use satin, which is pretty flat. Regards, David
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