Heronguy

Hello,
          Following my post on 5th Feb. Domanoff contacted me and immediately arranged for replacement parts to be dispatched. This seems to be  the level of service that other customers have received. When the parts arrive, I will close the loop and publicly thank Domanoff.
 
  Tony.

Answered my own questions and I'm impressed. Per the manual, I mixed some Linseed Oil & thinner and applied that to the foredeck - applied thick but wiped it up immediately. Then it needs to dry - I left it for about 3 hours. So that was the mixture on raw wood. It looks really nice! So nice in fact that I wanted to put some on the aft deck which I applied stain to last nite. Sanded it first with a 600g sand sponge then applied the oil. Again, very impressive. I don't think the pix show it very well but the wood has a very deep, rich look to it.  Zoran - you are on to something!  I'll be doing this from now on for stained areas.
 

 

 

 
So I need to stain the fore deck and will be ready to finish off the other deck items.

Friday 9 February 2018
 
I have not been online for a few days with messages . . but the problem is that, although I worked quite regularly and continuously, I, unfortunately, had no interesting material to show. And even now it's not like you probably may expect. But I still find it useful to post something because actually there were some important news.
I left you in my last update while I was working to install the planking on the main deck. From the photos I show at that time you could see that there was still enough work to complete this activity. In the following picture you can now see how this is almost completely concluded. Only one last shaped plank is missing on the two external sides in order to say: "mission accomplished!". This happened about a week ago.
Another activity that can be said complete is the battens of the internal part of the sides on the main deck: a last layer of cherry veneer has been laid horizontally. The strips are at the moment of the photo here below only laid down and not yet refined but in any case I'm still far from the final result on these elements. This achievement becomes the starting point for future activities.
 
01 Ragusian Carrack/09022018/IMG_20180203_103247.jpg

 
At the same time I started thinking about the completion of the hull planking, so I began to verify that everything was ready and that there was not some bulkheads to "adjust". From the picture below it seems that, for now, there is nothing to do, with the olny exception of a tidy bulkhead at bow that will have to be slightly thickened before applying the next planks.
 
02 Ragusian Carrack/09022018/IMG_20180207_101751.jpg

 
Still in parallel I started laying the second planking on the main deck. According to the drawings the pattern of this planking foresees the use of a 72mm long strip divided into four 18mm segments. The installation is staggered at each strake on a new segment and is repeated every four strakes. The central strakes are in tanganika and the two darker ones in mahogany. They are 5mm wide while the outer ones are (and will be all the way down) 4mm wide in tanganika. The next two images show the work done so far. It seems to me that everything is going well. For the color of the wood this will become equal to the two highest decks after the application of some wood oil.
 
03 Ragusian Carrack/09022018/IMG_20180209_163107.jpg

 
04 Ragusian Carrack/09022018/IMG_20180209_163114.jpg

 
Finally I applied four strakes on the hull on both sides. To simplify my life I'm using the method that I usually use in presence of a second planking, without stylistic frills that will not be seen anyway. The empty spaces with "triangular" shape will be filled in the next few days with a little patience. I believe this method will end here in the stern area but will still continue at bow, where the bowl shape of this area requires more drastic measures. The three images that follow show the work carried out until yesterday. Today, however, no modeling, I've been around Pisa for some commissions and shopping and I hadn't time to spend. Tomorrow it's forecasted good weather and maybe I'll organize a quick trip to the seaside . . otherwise let's go with other new strips !!
 
Kind regards, Jack.Aubrey.
 
05 Ragusian Carrack/09022018/IMG_20180209_163124.jpg

06 Ragusian Carrack/09022018/IMG_20180209_163133.jpg

07 Ragusian Carrack/09022018/IMG_20180209_163140.jpg

Small update. Here is the fore gaff, with outhaul, and peak halliard block attached.

Just buy a few kits of the cross-section and glue them together....et voila...a full ship!  
 
Yves

The finish really brings out the grain, looks great

Deck planking is complete although the finishing process is still in the works. At milestones like this I always try to to just leave things be and move on to the next task. The temptation is to paint/stain/finish whatever it is I have been working on. I think we all want to see how it will look close to being finished so we tease ourselves.   I couldn't resist either so while the foredeck is still being sanded I did put stain on the rear deck.
 
So it's walnut sticks, Minwax Pre-stain and Minwax Natural stain. Like I said earlier, everything above the wale will receive this same coloration which really doesn't stain like we are used to seeing. If you've ever wiped a damp rag over raw wood, that's about what the Natural stain does. Personally, I really like this stain.
 
I ended up being off by one plank on each side of the fore and after decks. I used 1 less. But I am OK with the result.
 
So have a peek.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another photo to illustrate the interior planking process. Midsection planks pre-painted and installed.
Steve

I have all three of Alexey"s machines and have had nothing but the best customer service from him

Really sorry, I didn't get any messages from you since Dec, 12th.
The last was with question about courier name.
Can you please check the email address have you used?
 
I do understand this looks like I hided from solving problem. Please believe me it's not so. I always help customers with any problems with my machines and doesn't matter what has it caused.
 
Thanks for Doug Ross who pointed me here as I read forum rarely.
 
Please contact me by paypal's email, email from site or my personal email from this forum or PM to discuss how to send you replacements.
 
my apologies for the this,
Alexey

… Here is something very interesting for the beginners as well for the experts perfectionists!  The spaces between all of the bulkheads could be filled up with the filler blocks made of some soft wood. We use the lime tree for this purpose, it is soft to fast and easy shaping, but it is still hard enough to carry on the tension of the planking… After the spaces between the bulkheads are filled up with the filler blocks, the entire construction needs to be sanded and polished. The shape of the full should be perfectly done in this phase of model’s development… It is good to treat it with putty and to polish it, leaving no any gaps… In this way the beginners will be able to set the planking strips very easily and the experts will be able to set the planking getting the perfect shape of the hull… This method is highly recommended by MarisStella…

Deck planking continues. I've been digging thru the pile of sticks trying to separate lighter colored ones from darker so that I can make a pattern similar to the pix in the manual. That shows alternating lite/dark sticks. I'm afraid there will not be enough lite ones for both front & back so I will continue on with the pattern on the stern deck since I can get 2 planks from 1 stick. I will need to determine how many shades of dark are left and figure out how to arrange them on the bow deck. Don't read this the wrong way. There are plenty of sticks to plank the decks. It's just that there are a lot more dark colored ones than lite colored
 
The tapered planks are laying well and a slight overall curve is beginning to show itself. I think the sticks are going to end up very similar to the planking plan.

 

 
 
 
I did (or at least have been) working on the hole for the mast. However the drill keeps wigging out - runs for a couple seconds and then stops. So that is still in progress.
 
I think I've done a reasonable job keeping a gap between the plank tips and the waterways. This is done so the planks don't cover up the scupper openings on the rail.
 

 
 
 
 
 
Be

Exterior scupper opening.
 
I have the start of a paint plan in my head. I'm thinking the bottom 2/3 of the hull being a dark forest green. From the wale down to the paint edge I will stain with the same dark stain used in the cargo hold. Decks and everything above the wale will be stained with Minwax Natural. And then a matte varnish all over.
 

How about starting with a 1,5x50mm sheet and cutting out the shape you need?  I'm half serious Don.

Zoran, that is a very helpful explanation!  Thank you.

Good Morning Everyone,
I'm making steady progress on the rigging. Ratlines are finished as well as the three yards on the foremast except for the braces, which I'll add at the end. Next is the fore gaff, then on to the main mast. Oh, and I have to replace a starboard backstay, which came apart due to the problem which I describe below. 


One frustration with this model is the blocks. They are very small. The plan indicates three sizes of block - 5/32", 1/8" and 3/32". I sorted the blocks I removed from the model into those three sizes. I don't know who measured them initially, but if I compare them to my other blocks, they are all much smaller.
In the picture above, the top block is a 1/8" from my Constitution model, the middle one is this model's idea of a 1/8" and the bottom is the 3/32". They were even had to sort as the differences in their sizes are only marginal. In addition they are very rounded and I have found it difficult to seize them and have them stay in place. It's not so bad when it's still on the bench, but when it happens much later after being installed on the model it's beyond frustrating. In the end I've taken to deepening the grooves on the side with a small file and applying a dollop of glue to the sides of the block as well as the seizing. This seems to have solved the problem but even so, due to fat fingers, each one is taking me about twice as long as has been my experience on other models. However, because of their small size, they do look pretty good once in place. 
 
Not too much left to finish this model off and I do need a break from rigging. Because most of the work on this restoration has been rigging and little hull work, it feels like I've been doing rigging forever having just finished rigging on my last model. I'm really looking forward to getting started on my next one and have some wood work to do and an extended respite from rigging. 
 
David

Doug - if you are considering buying another piece and doing it again, think about getting or making (I don't know what diameter your dowel is) something like a 1/4"x1/4"x24" stick. Whatever the dowel dimensions are the stick should be a little larger. Use some wood with a good straight grain. Make your own spars from square sticks.
 
It's almost a guarantee that a dowel will warp over time. While the grain appears straight, closer examination usually shows it is not and that is why they warp. I have a page or two in my Niagara log that shows what I did and even a jig that can help taper and cut octagonal sides should you need that.
 
A suggestion for turning - use a file or rasp to take away material at first. More bang for your buck. 50 or 100 grain paper next and then some 200.
 
To get a good consistent shape, start where the spar will be thinnest. Let's say that's the left side. With the drill/lathe on,place the file on the left side and hold for a second. Slowly slide file to the right about an inch than back to the left. Then out to the right 2 inches and back left. Out 3 inches and back. Follow that pattern until you get to the middle of the spar (or where ever the taper stops) then do it all over again.
 
You might also see about holding the drill in a vise or something to free up a hand.

Zoran, that is a very helpful explanation!  Thank you.

Looking forward to your booklet Zoran. Any and all help is appreciated.

Mike: I've been slowly trying to bend these pieces since last week but to no avail. I am going to accept defeat on this one and try a different approach. The biggest problem with bending this wide of a plank is the wood on the inside of the curve has no where to go and "bunches" up. I tried cutting kerfs in it, as you would a 2" board, but with this scale the pieces in between the kerfs chip away. I was not too confident in this method but thought I would give it a try. That's all good, lots of options left yet.
Ian: I am surprised you did not hear my description in Calgary, it was defiantly loud enough . As I mentioned to Mike bending is not an option for something this size and scale. Not to worry we will conquer this beast!! 
Doug: I have thought of that, and would have been done this by now, but I am saving that as a last resort. I would really like to complete this build with kit materials if possible. If it does come to it I will have no shame in using that method 
Zoran: that was my next thought, I was a little worried about the looks but it will all be covered with the grated deck and the joint could be hid under a pin rail. I will make a bending form first then cut some strips and give it a try.
 

On with some rigging.  
 
I figured that stays should be pretty substantial so I rigged with some .035" rope.
 

 
but decided it looked way too heavy so I cut them off and redid them with some .025.
 
Much more to my liking.

Mr. Mike... I have just illustrated and wrote a booklet about handmade molds for the shaping the strips by bending. It is a part of the Beginner set Level 3 booklet about Santa Maria reconstruction. This text needs to be reviewed before showing it around, so please for a bit of patience... Don is guilty for the English language connected with this ...

Anyway, the molds for the strips are very simple to make and it is a real pleasure to make and use them ... You will see this very soon ...
 
 
Regards, Zoran
 

Zoran, that is a very helpful explanation!  Thank you.

Hi good fellows !! I have just seen this posts so I decided to fill it up with this stuff :
 
At this Stefano model the covering board width varies from 3 (3.5)mm to 6mm. So here is the space for forming it and cutting… It is , let say, impossible to bend it to the shape at the stern. So You have to cut it. The covering board is , in reality, composed of several independent pieces. This is not a single plank. It is put together of two or more narrower planks fixed to each other. Here AT THE STERN  is to do next: use 1,5x7mm strip and make two or three narrow strips by cutting it. Make fragments about 10cm long. 2 or 3 mm width. Then bend the fragments, glut the fragments at the round hull planking and the deck at the stern. Glue the fragments one to the other. Get the shape of the covering board as in the drawing… polish it and it is it !! So remember: the king plank (in the middle of the deck) and the covering board are NOT the single piece planks. They are composed of several narrower planks put close one to the other. They are the same sort of the planks, so in the end, the connections are not visible …
 
Regards, Zoran
 

On with some rigging.  
 
I figured that stays should be pretty substantial so I rigged with some .035" rope.
 

 
but decided it looked way too heavy so I cut them off and redid them with some .025.
 
Much more to my liking.

On with some rigging.  
 
I figured that stays should be pretty substantial so I rigged with some .035" rope.
 

 
but decided it looked way too heavy so I cut them off and redid them with some .025.
 
Much more to my liking.