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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. Spent some time today wrapping up some belaying of roya/topsail control lines before I begin to work on the lower topsail.
  2. I agree with Dowmer..the natural sag to the lines is (IHV) part of the authenticity of a model. Actual running lines sag under gravity on real vessels...why not on models. If we are so attentive to get every aspect of our models correct to the tiniest detail...why not the natural sag of the lines. Great work Ed..nice to see you at it again...nearly done too...... Rob
  3. Thanks Pat. I am encouraged knowing that anything will *Pop* into my head. Rob
  4. Beautiful...... questions: Did you secure the pedestals to the base...or are they floating? Did you cut out the letters with a knife and then paint them...and if you did..how did you do it so smoothly?
  5. Waste of time was not the right description...... You are very correct....the only time I meant that was wasted was the time utilized for experimentation that was not used in actual building. Time spent experimenting is NEVER wasted. I just lurnt how not to make convincing fluffy billowing sails. Rob
  6. Just a note: After exhausting all other ideas to form billowing sails that represent a sail that is being drawn in via its bunt, clew and sheets....it has become apparent to me that attaining a similar look...one that is in harmony with all the other sails....is not easily done with such dissimilar material. Starching the paper sails was not an option, because the overall look was altered..and an uneven micro wrinkled surface was also not acceptable. Similar translucency was never achievable (Not to my liking anyway). Vacuum forming was my best option for achieving the best results for great billows....however..they never looked natural and joints between billows never materialized with the neatness and cleanliness I had so desired. I have no photographic evidence....because in experimentation mode, I generally do not take images. Not until I have found a successful...repeatable technique do I then record those efforts. So my friends....it looks as if the brilliant idea of incorporating several fluttering sails as was depicted in the Glory of the Seas painting won't be part of this build. No real tragedy.....a full set of sails is impressive enough and the technique I have developed for this model will suffice. So now it's back to the shipyard(and out of the laboratory), and time to put my hands to making the lower topsail. I will add the shroud fairleads to the starboard side(Port side is complete), and run the top sails control lines, the topsail yard downhaul and such. Thanks for enduring my little charade. I gave the impression of success....when in fact, all I did was experiment, and waste time. Rob
  7. That's coming along very nicely.....good job Clippers are my favorite design...so, I'll be watching with delight. Rob
  8. Indeed. The wrinkles, Oh the wrinkles. Forming wet paper over round/ovoidal surfaces is a tuff gig. (Unanticipated). I was overly positive...I think. I've done this before...but the level of poor surface quality..just is no cutting it for the level of detail I'm working for. I also tried the *Forced perspective*...comprising a layering effect , simulating folding canvas...even after hours of attempt and paint and such....the effect was far from convincing. Maybe on another model...one not going in the direction this ones going. Sheesh....... All that is left is to attempt the vacuum forming idea....if that becomes a complicated mess...then I am not spending another wasted minute. I'll regain my focus and continue with the full set of sails as originally planned. Rob
  9. I agree....a receiving period model of the Connie would be a fresh new idea and a wonderful addition to any collection. A model to really encourage conversations. Thanks for your comments. Rob
  10. I would think so......Furling a sail is one thing....creating billows is another...and it ain't easy. Rob
  11. I'm also toying with the idea of vacuum forming the billows and then gluing them together at the buntline seams...this idea seams to have great possibilities. Then the final product will get a good coat of paint. I can create wood molds that I can then put in my vacuum former to create the pieces to form the entire sail....... This idea sounds good too...... Oh my mind is a whir of deep cosmic transient thoughts....... Something genius will pop out I'm sure...... Rob
  12. One other note: Just as one would modify furled sail material(Not using the full sail to furl), I will cut and modify the sail to appear to be reefed up(along with the actual bunt and leach lines). One must utilize forced perspective to achieve the desired result....and visually modifying the sail to *appear* as if it is being let out or furled, without going through the tedium of folding each billow and crease within the sail. Rob
  13. Indeed...I have Separator used for sealing against acrylics made for plasters and dental stones....it will do the trick. It will be like working with paper machete ...... just without the starch. I have a feeling this technique will develop as I go along. Rob
  14. I've decided I will make a mold out of plaster and form the wet paper sail to it to create the billowed sail..... Pics will follow as I develop the mold...... Rob
  15. Yes...a convincing billow with all the activity of the buntlines and sheets does present a real issue...however, working with paper that has been wetted and then molded into a convincing shape and then dried can be done successfully. Once fully dried the sail is then painted and rigged just as I have outlined with the other sails. I appreciate your opinion...and I tend to agree with you. I'll fully experiment with the technique before I conclude it will be good enough for the model....but I have high hopes. I'll keep everyone informed of my progress. Rob
  16. When I begin the lower topsail...I had hoped to create a bit of wear on the sail by creating a discolored panel...or simulate several repaired panels by making them slightly darker. It was not unusual to have even fairly new canvas that was not perfect looking....there were slight differences in the panels. I think the added detail will greatly add to the authenticity of the sails. I even toyed with the idea of making the main sheet billowy as if being furled or nearly unfurled. And the Mizzen main furled. Similar to this image of Glory of the Seas. Any opinions with that idea?
  17. Fantastic work Doris...just amazing. It is extremely clear you are a master sculptor as well as a ship modeler. I was reading up on another friends build and he used *Sculptamold* for his moldings....is your material similar? And the question did come up about shrinkage...have you notice any in your carvings after you bake them? Third question....are you simply creating a putty mold of the original and casting more to form the other 3 sides you will need...or will you be going old school and creating each individually? Rob
  18. Thanks for the update Ed....will be patiently awaiting your new images install. Rob
  19. Thanks for the fine compliments everyone.... Two mast stepped and shrouded.......half way done with that...... Miles to go. Rob
  20. Finished with the ratlines....Now onto the lower topsail fabrication. Rob
  21. Thank you very much. I too, tend to pay close attention to details that may go unnoticed on other folks models. As you rightly pointed out..some, young in the hobby, make mistakes unbeknownst to themselves...and others, cleverly disguise or distract alterations/modifications for some unknown practical purpose. (Not forgetting the need at times for great artistic license due to lack of credible information). Both of these characterizations will cause the discrete educated observer to question. I appreciate your observation and most of all your desire to point out a blaring error that without proper explanation could leave a model and its builder with less than a reputable reputation. I'm no expert....but I'm also no novice. More like a *Hack* then a purist. Rob
  22. Good catch.....I intentionally placed the channel deadeyes upside down to facilitate the means by which I attached the deadeyes to the channels. Holes were drilled up and into the deadeyes so a wire could *bolt*(In my case glue) the deadeye in place. if the scale of the model had been larger then 1/128...say 1/96 or 1/72...I would have stropped the eyes with banding as would have been typical. I chose the more expedient compromise. Like I've said before...I'm not a purist...but I sure know the difference. Nearly 48 years of passionate study of the subject allows me the license to alter minor details to satisfy the need to actually have a completion date for this model...... In my case the modification nearly goes unnoticed....unless close-up pics are provided to give away the modification. I've been found out. Here are some finished foot ropes...that are NOT typically fixed with clove hitches.
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