leclaire

This is a great device, but the upper flange supplied is too small and allows slippage of the large sleeves. A simple fix is shown in picture- a jar top.

Do a search on each of these topics - they have been discussed many times - lots of advice & recommendations.

Nice tidy work. At first I thought this was a kit but it slowly became apparent you are in scratch build mode. Where did you find the plans?
 
Bob

Steady as she goes.
A little more work done. Starting to look like the Orca Boat now😊

Hi Bob. Google and resized to my scale. Some bits were a bit blurred but seems to be going okay. Altering as i go as they are not really that accurate. 

There's the old saying that "It's a poor craftsman who blames his tools."  A lot of truth in that.

I certainly cannot argue about buying high quality tools but I also remember trying to outfit a shop as a newlywed on a beginning engineering salary.  In that case, it was either do without or buy what I could afford.  Some, but not all of which I have later replaced.
 
As a 45 year NRG member I fully support and have contributed to the organization’s research mission through articles, book reviews, and letters that I have published in the Journal over the years.  I believe that support of this mission includes encouraging others to move beyond building tried and true HMS Victory or USS Constitution models by tackling more adventurous projects.
 
If we promote the message that the only way to move beyond a kit subject is to set up a shop full of top of the line tools the barrier for expanding horizons will be too high for many aspiring modelers.  While a name brand swiveling base/ rotating head vice may be nice to have, a Harbor Freight model serves the same purpose.  With dimishing supplies of cut-to-size specialtized lumber, milling our own will become the norm.  A high quality 14in bandsaw sells for about $1500 plus freight, specialized blades, etc; more than many may be willing to pay.
 
Harold Hahn built his remarkable models with an 8in table saw and Sears hollow ground veneer blades.  While not ideal, tools like this can still produce outstanding models.
 
Roger
 
 

What you need to do is learn how such models are built in general, and then apply those skills to this (or any) model. Take the time to read the excellent planking tutorials here on MSW. Make a few mockups and practice the techniques described. When you understand the skill, apply it to your model. Do not expect a magic tool to replace knowledge, skill, and patience.
 
The technique you are trying is akin to trying to learn to play trumpet by memorizing all the finger combinations to a specific tune, rather than studying music theory and learning how the trumpet actually works. Once you master those, you can play all sorts of songs. Otherwise you'll bang your head against the wall trying to learn one song without ever really understanding the instrument.

The best thing you can do so you don't become a statistic would be to put aside the kit you are working on and get a simple kit meant to teach modeling techniques.  You are already aware of the issue of how many walk away from first builds that are too complicated - why do you want to go down that road?  Do a search of this site for beginner kits - check them out and use the very good instructions in these kits along with build logs here to guide you.   

That is what blue paint is for ...

Merry Christmas Everyone,
 
I figured I'd get one more quick update in before the end of the year.
 
While I still sort out my hull color, I started working on the cannon carriages.
 
I started out with pasting the template as a pattern and cutting out the rough form on my bandsaw.

 

 
With a little sanding and carving I pieced them together. Please forgive my lack of pictures on these, I totally forgot to take them while building them.

 
Temp installed in one of the gun ports.

 
 
The more I looked at the carriages, the more I became dissatisfied with them. So while I pondered yet another quandary, I decided to work on putting in the waterway knee braces. I managed to find some dollhouse molding that I thought would work perfect for these braces. They may be a little bit more fancier than what was actually used, but since none of them survived the salvage, I went with what I thought would work. Besides, compared to the HSR, they look pretty close.

 

 
First one in place.

 
All done. I'll clean them up a bit before the paint goes on.

 
Once the knee braces were installed, I worked on building the rudders. Again I apologize for the lack of pictures, I guess I was just too engrossed in my work to focus on anything else but the build.

 
 
Next I started working on the casemate planking. This time I remembered to take pictures.
 
Lining things up for the casemate planks.

 
I made little jig to ensure that all sills were the same height. It seemed to work pretty good.

 
Aft lower sills in place.

 
Planking begins.

 
Aft and starboard planking.

 
Port side planking. It is here where I finally figured out how I wanted to show the insides. I was struggling with how to show off some of the details inside. I wasn't sure if I wanted to leave the whole thing opened like the model in the Cairo Museum, or make a removable panel, or what. I wasn't too keen on leaving the whole side open, due to the fact that it seems that the integrity of the side would not be there without any support. Not that I'll be handling the model much after it is completed, it was just a concern. 
 
Then I thought that maybe I could install a few removeable panels to allow access to the inside views, but I ruled that out because I didn't want to have to take it out of the case every time I wanted to show someone the insides. It wasn't until I was looking for some parts on Model Expo when I saw a picture of the USS Confederacy that the Idea to leave the planking off the side and expose the framing. The frames are spaced far enough apart that you will be able to see inside and there is no issue with compromising the structure.

 
Completed port side with cutaway.

 
Finished planking the starboard side and starting the gun port cutouts.

 
Aft planking done and working on the gun port cutouts.

 
Finally, I couldn't stand it anymore. I just couldn't get over the look of my first attempt at the gun carriages. They just didn't look right. So I went ahead and rebuilt them. This time I took pictures of the process.

 
Shaping the boards.

 
Sides stacked and glued together.

 
Trunnion notches filed out.

 
More shaping.

 
Turning the axles.

 

 
Pieced together.

 

 
Mostly completed, just need to add the trucks to it. Then assemble 12 more.

 
I am much more pleased with the outcome of these than my first attempt.
 
 
Well that is all for now. Hopefully on the next update I will have some progress on the hull painting and a few other things.
 
I hope everyone has a wonderful Holiday Season. Please be safe and take care of yourselves.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
-Brian
 

No kidding. I don't need another vice but I also just have to have it. Unfortunately the yellow color is bright enough to stand out so the "boss" is sure to notice something is amiss.

No kidding. I don't need another vice but I also just have to have it. Unfortunately the yellow color is bright enough to stand out so the "boss" is sure to notice something is amiss.

No kidding. I don't need another vice but I also just have to have it. Unfortunately the yellow color is bright enough to stand out so the "boss" is sure to notice something is amiss.

No kidding. I don't need another vice but I also just have to have it. Unfortunately the yellow color is bright enough to stand out so the "boss" is sure to notice something is amiss.

No kidding. I don't need another vice but I also just have to have it. Unfortunately the yellow color is bright enough to stand out so the "boss" is sure to notice something is amiss.

When I woke up this morning I did not feel the need to buy a vice. After reading this post I just ordered the Stanley 360.
Lesson learned; stay away from this section of the forum 😀.
 
Peter

I cannot  recommend highly enough this vice
 
https://www.bunnings.com.au/stanley-multi-angle-hobby-vice_p5860190?gclid=CjwKCAiAz4b_BRBbEiwA5XlVVtknHMycDWIEAYWkdZecVyfQxlkbbJsjcMu9fU3DjRzeMCQEKuCCqxoC7lcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

I bought one when I started my first build and was very disappointed with it. Unless you are attaching it to a very smooth surface, such as glass, it does not stay in place well at all. Even if you use a glass surface it can come undone at most inappropriate times, such as what you are working on ending up on the floor. Better to get a small vice that you can bolt or clamp to your work top.
 
Bob

I bought one when I started my first build and was very disappointed with it. Unless you are attaching it to a very smooth surface, such as glass, it does not stay in place well at all. Even if you use a glass surface it can come undone at most inappropriate times, such as what you are working on ending up on the floor. Better to get a small vice that you can bolt or clamp to your work top.
 
Bob

I bought one when I started my first build and was very disappointed with it. Unless you are attaching it to a very smooth surface, such as glass, it does not stay in place well at all. Even if you use a glass surface it can come undone at most inappropriate times, such as what you are working on ending up on the floor. Better to get a small vice that you can bolt or clamp to your work top.
 
Bob

I bought one when I started my first build and was very disappointed with it. Unless you are attaching it to a very smooth surface, such as glass, it does not stay in place well at all. Even if you use a glass surface it can come undone at most inappropriate times, such as what you are working on ending up on the floor. Better to get a small vice that you can bolt or clamp to your work top.
 
Bob

I bought one when I started my first build and was very disappointed with it. Unless you are attaching it to a very smooth surface, such as glass, it does not stay in place well at all. Even if you use a glass surface it can come undone at most inappropriate times, such as what you are working on ending up on the floor. Better to get a small vice that you can bolt or clamp to your work top.
 
Bob

I bought one when I started my first build and was very disappointed with it. Unless you are attaching it to a very smooth surface, such as glass, it does not stay in place well at all. Even if you use a glass surface it can come undone at most inappropriate times, such as what you are working on ending up on the floor. Better to get a small vice that you can bolt or clamp to your work top.
 
Bob

I bought one when I started my first build and was very disappointed with it. Unless you are attaching it to a very smooth surface, such as glass, it does not stay in place well at all. Even if you use a glass surface it can come undone at most inappropriate times, such as what you are working on ending up on the floor. Better to get a small vice that you can bolt or clamp to your work top.
 
Bob