John Allen

To be honest I am surprised that you didn't try for officer status or at least Warrant. Same job just better pay and living conditions. I only knew a couple of guys who were enlisted with full degrees.
 
Just to prove that I have in fact working on this darn model here are pictures of the latest progress. Not much over the last pictures but I find this kind of stuff incredibly slow and tedious and have to take breaks and do other stuff every couple of hours or so. 
 
I have finally installed the collective and cyclic sticks. along with the foot pedals. I ended up using the kit pedals as frankly they were just easier to deal with. The collective and cyclic are aftermarket. I have glued the pilot into his seat and mounted the collective to his hand, not the cabin floor. I also extended his harness straps back to the seat and down to the recoil box on the back. They did not turn out like I wanted and I had to try and get it right several times as evidenced by all of the glue marks that will have to be painted over. Not a neat job to say the least and I am tempted to rip them all out and possibly cut new ones from something more flexible like paper or possibly even white tape. Something like Lou did on his plane build recently. The co-pilot is still loose but about all that is needed for him is the shoulder harness over the back of the seat and glue him in. Both of them also need some paint touch up yet again.
 
I installed the dash using the kit supplied PE/painted version. While memory says that dash should be completely black like the console I do have a surviving picture that I took that happens to show part of the dash uncovered by shadow and it is the gray and black colors, so at least one Huey I flew in had this color. I also used it because it is FAR FAR better and more detailed than ANYTHING I could have done, and being the liter contrasting colors will be more visible after the fuselage and windows are installed.
 
So close your eyes and look the other way, here come the pictures:
 

Lovely work, Lou.  If you hadn't mentioned the issues, we probably wouldn't have noticed them.  Now put an egg beater on her and she'll fly 

When I asked my dentist how he disposed of his burs he said he threw them away. Then I asked was it possible to obtain any of them. He readily acceded but said he would have to sterilize or autoclave them first. Went back 3 days later and received a nice baggy of assorted burs over 50. Some had heavy use but cut threw wood like butter.
 
Had been going to him for over 30 yrs. so may not have been problematic for him. Free is nice.

Dave,
 
Ingenuity comes from genius or is it from genius comes ingenuity. Excellent problem solver that is copied and goes into my log of tips.

They are copper clad steel BB's,  Ken.  Was only planning on using them as supplemental weights, not paint mixing.  Have a battery powered mixer from MicroMark for that function. Works great, even on old almost dried out Floquil paint.
 
So as I await the hazmat suit and my venture out to Wally World in search of BBs, I have gotten this far with the build. Unfortunately the rotor blades were not designed to rotate on this model so I have to make that the last addition.
 

 
 
 
 

Ok - I apologise for my little game, I blame my incarceration.
 
About 7 years ago I completed HMS Cornwall and since then she has resided in a plastic bag on a top shelf of the workshop, occasionally picking up minor damage.
I couldn't be bothered to make a case, or get round to ordering one. Finally the need for workshop shelf space prompted me to buy one and fortunately it was delivered the day before lockdown. 
Rather than install the model on a stand inside the case, I decided to engineer the stand into the base itself - hence the metalwork.
 
Well done Eberhard - you win the prize. Oh! and of course Steve you too!!!!

Beautiful model, Keith. Now you don't use your snooker table any more to play, you have plenty of place to display a lot more models.

Thanks for the likes.   
 
Update..  sanding is done though I will recheck everything before planking.  Next is to set it upright and work on the gundeck by adding some decking and framing in the bulwarks, gun ports, and stern.   Not necessarily in that order.  I happy to be done with the balsa... miserable sawdust it makes.  I'll clean up the shop in the morning.
 
Here's photos.

What OC said.. a good plan.

WOW !  Nice detail and nice paint job, Lou

Thanks Edward
Some of our kids are also grown up, although not really gone. Two of them live within walking distance of our house. It oldest one who just turned 50 lives about 800 miles away. In reality the two we have at home now are actually grandchildren we adopted years ago and while they still call us grandma and grandpa we still consider them just two more sons just like the others. After 50 years of continuous children I doubt we would know what to do if it was just the two of us. Probably end up shooting each other.
 
Well you were all warned. Here come the pictures! Like I said I had hoped to get more done than I have but at least there is some progress. Part of the reason is the amount of detail work that is needed in the cockpit area on this model. Once all of this is done there is almost nothing else to this kit of any significance. So without further due here are the pictures:





I have some chores to attend to again today, but I will try and get some more build time in and make a little more progress in this incredibly slow part of the build so I can continue to torture your sensibilities.
 
Thanks for looking in.

What is it?   How is it used?

thanks J and Kevin........thanks also to all who looked in.   I went further with the planking.......we still went out for the groceries....errands wait for no man {or virus}.  I put together my portable jig........it's a jig and I set it up on the port side of the table  

it's quite simple really.....this hold looks much better.  once the hold was dry,  I used it to trace out the second hold.  two things here.......1- it's supposed to be located aft of the main mast.  putting it there would have made it cramped for the aft cabin and the wheel house {box},  so I bit it and moved it up.  it does look logical.  2- I wanted to plank around these structures....I traced around the outside and inner dimensions of the hold,  but I don't know why......I boxed in the forward hold.  I later said the heck with it.....

with the first hold done,  the second one was made.  the first hold got fitted with the grating.

at this point,  I went totally aloof and ran the planking all the way to the transom.

I forgot to cut out for the main mast......I'll have to go prospecting later.   the two grates.......now both have been fitted with the grating......they both got a coat of flat black

here they are in place on the deck..  more planking has been added.

the bow has been done up to a certain point.......now to whip up a fore deck.  in the picture,  the fore deck is tucked under the cap rails......no extra will be needed for the bulwarks.  I'm surprised that there isn't a break water,  or railing..........but...it is what it is  

the fore deck will cover the first two bulkheads.   the height that it is to be,  will be perfect for the windlass.  I got it out on the bluenose kit.......gotta order fittings for that project anyway   cutting the deck out,  cutting out the posts...filing and beveling.......and we have the start of a fore deck.  I will be planking it too.

I may try and narrow the windlass down a bit.....might be too wide.   more to come soon.   the rest of the city may be home bound......but I have to work tomorrow.   I should feel lucky......but I'm concerned.

the article in the National Geographic depicts her as a schooner....I actually like both concepts.......schooner and Brigg.  that's why I'm building the two........the other part is that I'm as crazy as a loon     there wasn't much left of her.......if she was found right away,  they would have only found what was below the waterline.  she was sailed to a remote cove and burned.  I also found another article that gives the same account.  other than the N.G. article and picture,  I have found no other pictures of her.......just a large mural that suggests her mispelt name and nothing more.  I try not to go by drawings and paintings though....too much artistic licensing and embellishment.   I could go with other known ships of the same cut,  but the differences would be there.

wow J.........you made back to the surface!   thanks for posting the link to the log....I would have done it,  but I figured that if anyone was curious enough,  they'd look it up.  that and it's another way to highlight the past projects that have been undertaken here.  there are some really good logs that never see the light of day.........heck.....even I stop and look into one when I check to see what pages my other projects are on     2013.... has it been that long?!?!?!?!  that's OK....soon.........that's all I can say on the time line for the moment.   last year........considering the dating......maybe TWO years ago,  I bought the Revell U.S.S. Constitution...believe it or not.....$15 dollars!  while building the hull frame for the Agilis,  I was thinking of her fit......and I thought of cannons {I really should start the second log now}  I recalled assembling the bow chaser for the United States,  so I found that one and got out the parts for the one in the Connie kit.   while I was doing that,  the hull halves for the Connie was laying on the long table {around me.......things should NOT be lying around.........they are apt to be played with}.  I found myself removing flash and later,  cementing the hull together.  so now it sits on the long table.....she so massive {yes....I am salivating}.   I though of something that was discussed some time ago,  but I have not seen anyone undertake the concept.............let's just say that I'm doing some research 
   I did get back to the Clotilda in the evening......fixed the porthole dilemma....

I think it would be better,  that I assemble the cabins with strips rather than sheet.  they need to peer over the bulwarks more,  thus be a bit taller.   I used these eyelets on my Gundalow project.......filled in with window maker,  they made excellent portholes.  I have them in different sizes....in brown,  white,  and shiny chrome...they can be painted to match any decor.   I also did a little bit more on the deck planking.  I'm not bothering to do margins,  so it will be a lot of creative cutting.

the hold I made yesterday......fails.........not totally square 'cuz I did it freehand,  and my cuts were a little crooked because of it too.   I still have a habit of doing things by hand.......silly because I bought one of those choppers and I should be using it.   I'll have more later  

I made a bit more progress on the Clotilda..........yea,  I may as well call her that.  that is the ship I've decided to model her as.  I haven't done anything on the Agilis,  although I have begun to plank the frame.  confusing I know,  but as I get further down the road,  the fog will clear.  I did start to plank the deck....I will continue with the dark planking.

the mast collars,  as supplied in the kit...I made one for both masts.  before I go any further,  I need to cut out a second hold.  I'll try and keep it between the bulkheads....the forward opening,  I'll just paint the bulkhead black,  rather than chance mess'in her up.  I wish I had done something before I glued the platform down 

usually,  I have the cabin structures done,  so I can map out the deck.......I like to plank around the structures rather than glue them on top of it.  it just makes for a neater appearance.  so I began to make the aft structure,  using the supplied parts.   the back and sides of the cabin are 1 piece,  but they are die scored...you just bend them to shape the cabin.  wouldn't you know it........the die cuts are not straight....the darn thing is so warped!
   so I scratch built one........already had another all traced out.   I made sure that the cuts I was going to make were square with the bottom line.........made another front piece,  but a tad wider than the kit supplied part.

a little sanding is needed to further square things up,  and then I can make a roof.   I also began to make the hold frames.   they supplied a metal piece that looks like grating,  but I don't like it....so I dug out some of the grating I made for the United States.

you really don't want to know how I made these.........for the curious,  it can be found in the Revell U.S.S. United States build.   it's likely deep in the archives,  so leave a trail of bread crumbs or sawdust,  and we'll come and find you in a week or so...I made these February,  2013.  these look perfect.......what is seen in the picture of the magazine.  

started to gt busy with the planking again.......

but,  I could not stop thinking about the cabin.   cutting out a piece of 1/32 sheet,  the roof was added to it.

yea....that's my 'dinty' on the roof.........darn CA was leaking!   that's the first of the two holds.   curiosity was starting to get at me........I recall from the picture that ........1 - the cabin doesn't look like that.   and 2 - there are two cabins on deck.    the height of the fore deck is another question.......where I'm using a windlass,  I need to know if I should raise the bow bulwarks at all.   looking at the picture.........nope,  wrong direction......so I won't be using it.   can't say if I will use it for the Agilis either.  shouldn't be a total loss........I'll see if my idea of portholes will work on the cabin.   I have a huge assortment of eyelets.......for belts,  shoes,  and the like.  I've been able to use them for portholes and hawse holes for past projects........thought I might put a few in on this project.   I really need to toss out those CHEAP drill bits!

the piece is glued back in place and sanded.......I need to refine the hole now.  we'll see where tomorrow takes us  
 

thanks......it's not my best job,  but it came out better than expected considering the kit.
 
 
well folks.......I said I'd hopefully have some evening progress for ya......so here goes.   at the moment......I'm like a kid in a candy store......bopp'in from idea to idea.   really not ideal for a head fulla sawdust...it'll knock the stuff'in outa ya!  I was going to repaint the inner bulwarks,  but the heck with it.......I found myself masking for the upper outer hull paint.

of course,  with the hull upside down,  I expected the upper surface of the rub rail to get missed.  I decanted some of the paint into a small bottle and tried to brush it on,  but the glue marks were showing up.   still wearing the rubber gloves,  I damned the torpedoes and held the hull while touching all this up.  I tried to cover the deck,  but I stink at it......hate it {never used to be}.  there is part of the center deck plank run to the hold,  but I'm hoping I miss it.

terrible job on the inner bulwarks huh.........that will get another coat of paint.  I'm gonna make the adjustment to the stand too...the dremel is in the garage.  you know......I bought another accessory kit for the dremel,  and I hardly use it.  Gibbs hates the sound.  anyway........giving this plenty of time to dry,  it was re masked,  and the bottom was done.

pay no attention to the clothes pinned behemoth behind her..........the only flaw is at the bow.  gotta touch that up.
   
I'll let her set overnight.....gives me time to work on the stand.

Thanks for the kind words !
 
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Buffer beams
 
In order to limit the recoil and the running out of the gun, buffer beams are installed at both ends of the frame of the lower carriage. Each beam carries four buffers against which the front cross-beam of the upper carriage runs. The buffers are designed as pistons with piston rods screwed to the back of the beam. It is not completely clear what the elastic elements were. The drawings seem to indicate rubber discs with metal separating discs. On some of the guns at Suomenlinna fortress there are remains of rubber discs, while the demonstration model of the Danish navy seems to have spiral springs.
 
Buffer beams on the lower carriage
 
The bodies of the buffers were turned from 1 mm soft steel wire. The spring element was simulated by winding around it several turns of 0.15 mm tinned copper wire. Whether this is meant to meant to represent rubber discs or springs I will decide, when it comes to the painting stage.
 
One buffer dry-mounted
 
The nuts that keep the buffers to the beam were also turned from 1 mm soft steel wire. First, the hexagon for a 0.6 mm spanner width was milled on in the dividing head of the micro-mill. On the lathe a 0.4 mm hole was drilled and 0.3 mm long nuts parted off. And no, I didn’t cut a 0.4 mm thread
 
Buffers and fastening nuts
 
The parts of the buffer beams were laser-cut from 0.15 mm thick Canson paper and soaked in wood-sealer. They were folded and assembled using zapon varnish. In order to make folding more precise, a row of tiny holes were ‘punched’ along the folding lines with the laser-cutter, which weakens the material there. The rivetting was simulated by tiny drops of acrylic gel that was applied with a syringe and a fine injection needle. The needle was ground flat at the end for this purpose.
 

Buffers and fastening nuts – the buffer have a diameter of 1 mm
 
More details were added to the lower carriage. A heavy forged claw at each end of the frame hooks under the rail on which the carriage trucks run to prevent the carriage from lifting off the pivot. The profile of the hooks was taken off the original drawings and cut in multiple copies from Canson paper. These were glued together as a stack and sanded smooth – not a 100% satisfying solution, but filing such tiny but wide claws from the solid I found too fiddly. The lugs that attach the claws to the frame were also cut from Canson paper.
 

Safety claw, pivot plate and drive shaft
 
The gun is trained with the aid of a curved rack, a crown-wheel segment in fact. In to this rack made from bronze, a steel pinion engages that is driven by a shaft from a sort differential, which is powered by man-power from the deck below the barbette. After some consideration I decided not to make the pinion, though I would have liked the challenge, because it will not be visible once the gun has been installed on board. The driving shaft, which also is barely visible was fashioned in a simplified was from a clothes pin, the head of which was turned to shape.
 
To be continued ...
 

This week progress, few photos. I will be working in the front of the model for the next months.
 
In various contents in the forum, that I looked these last weeks, I was surprised how many over engineer model ship building, making a simple job, taking 10 times  longer but not with results 10 time better.
 
 

Here‘s some more views of the B-17 of La Ferté
 
 

Awesome build of a legendary warhorse!
Here's a really cool stop action video build of an Airfix kit by Tom Gringat on youtube that's strangely calming to watch...

What breed is it, Denis? Face looks like my Corgi's face - see my avatar picture

here's a couple pictures from last night.......
  

this morning,  I got more done.  I decided to go back to the first page of the instructions.....to the bomb bay racks.  I kinda had to feel my way through it,  because I took the parts off the sprues.   the outer rack girders are shaped in such a way,  to fit in the wing roots.   sliding one in place,  the assembly was slid into place to check the fit.  it fits perfectly.

the racks need to be glued to the girders.......only one side { the inner side} has the bomb release holders........I got scared 'cuz I couldn't find the ones for the outer racks {silly rabbit}.

the racks were glued to the outer girders,  once I knew the direction of the shaping.  the bomb bay doors need to be installed when the rack assembly is cemented in place.....I need to split them.  I tried to put the in behind the outer girders,  but I saw this was wrong,  due to the 1/4 inch gap in the fuselage halves.  looking at the instructions,  they are to be set in the open or closed position.

slid in place at the moment,  the assembly went back in the fuselage half..........

I also glued the tail landing gear tub in place too........again impeccable fit!   closed up,  the fit is very good.

looking down......I felt I was being watched........

I know that look.........you want to go out.......huh?!?!   a bit blurry from all the action going on........yea bud,  lets go out    it's really nice outside.

 
 

I updated it 
 
 

Today I started the detail work.   After clipping out the brass bits, filling them down a touch and blackening I started the "riveting" work.  I also assembled the hatch door and rudder.  Ive skipped a few steps in the instructions as it seemed like it would be a hugely problematic to try and finish this thing with those delicate oars sticking out the sides.  I feel similar about the rudder, so Ill likely leave it until the end to attach.
 
I chose to leave the brass nail heads unblackened for no real reason other than that I just liked it better.  The contrast is pleasing to me.   Similarly, I also chose not to paint the window work black as is shown in the photos.  


One supremely annoying problem I have though is the fine sawdust accumulation on the glazing of the windows.   If I had taken a bit more care I probably could have avoided this problem, of course now its looking pretty impossible to get it totally off the interior of the glazing.   I will be creating some kind of armature window wiping thing...   ugh.   Its fear this is one mishap that will drive me nuts.  Its already making me crazy...  I find Im incessantly blowing on it, knowing full well the dust is on the inside.   

 

Well since the Pandemic arrived, I had some spare time to model the fairleads.  I took a 1/2" wide strip of 1/32" thick brass to my machinist vice with a paper pattern of the desired shape glued to the face.  Using a jewelers saw and my skinniest files, I cut the shape out.   It took quite some time before the shape was acceptable, sawed them loose from the strip and coated them with Brass Black. 
    With the fitting being a mere 1/32" thick I didn't think glue alone would be able to anchor it to the rail.  So two pieces of 1/32" brass wire were taped down to the face of my basswood deck pattern along with the fitting to keep them still while I soldered them together with a soldering iron.  Then when done the wire was cut to length as shown in the upper right of the photo below.

    Once the fairleads were cleaned up with my files they were given another bath in the Brass Black and set aside to dry.   I located the desired position of the fittings by using the wire pins to put impressions in the cap rail to locate the holes.  A pin vice was used to very carefully drill holes for the pins.  Using a touch of medium CA on the ends of the pins they were pressed in place to let the glue fully set. 
    So below is a photo of the fittings in place. 

    I wasn't totally satisfied with the fittings, but as my dad always used to say: it's good enough for government work.