lmagna

Painted the first coat with acrylics. Van Dyk green and the inside raw sienna which is a light brown. I opted for a lighter color instead of black. 
Due to the abundance of walnut in my possession, I made the shutters from that wood. Also,  it is 4 mm thick instead of 3 mm, which it calls for 
The mill will have a lot of hardwood incorporated. The plans call for plenty but I am doing more because I have lots (left overs from the woodworkers club). 
Marcus  

Doll house curtains (1/12th scale), might be a source, as well as 1/16th figures or 1/12th. In either scale maybe a child's figure, were the scale difference may not be noticible.
On a side note I once owned a 17' sailboat and found an old ad for it. The boat looked much bigger in the add, with more people in the cockpit than it could ever hold in real life. It wasn't until you looked closely that you noticed that the occupents were all children, about 6 or 7 years old!

Welcome Vivian, yes there is still plenty of room. 
 
Finished the bottom plate, foundation wall, frame studs, and the thatch roof templates. 
Cut the lexan for the doors, windows and windows in the thatch roof. 
Added door knobs for the doors and put together the windows that will be installed in the thatch roof. Once dry, sand a bit put primer on, paint all of it Van Dyk green and finalize it with lacquer.
The window shutters will be primed as well and they have a design painted on them. 
Marcus 

Nope, they don't need the sail to run.
The sails are only needed in case of low wind speed.
 
@ Marcus: are you going to build an interior, or will this be an "outside only" ?
Can you tell us what the mechanics of the mill are? Is it working using a  'water-screw' or a 'wheel' ?
 
@Piet: do you mean this one in Ter Haar?

I like Dutch windmills. Quite a lot of differences between them, depending on region, function, and age.
I also like these few rather sturdy ones (this one is Zeddam, in the eastern part of the country)

 
 
Jan
 
 

Thatch can be simulated with tile glue. The author describes this. Basically you need a thick paste that when dry is waterproof. 
There is a windmill website in the Netherlands that sell bundles of thatch. But a bit pricy. Or in the summer go to an unmowed field and cut the straw myself. 
 
It will be working.. This is why I need a copper tube. Probably put a LED light in it as well. 
Marcus 

Welcome Ondras71. 
 
Glued everything together and she is in a clamp letting her dry overnight. 
Marcus 

Glued the bulkheads and spaces together. The boat is in three pieces and once dry, I will glue the whole thing together.
 
My woodworkers club has a free bee table. This is where members put stuff on which they no longer want and this month I took about 200 pieces of 12" x 1 x "1/4" cherry. Some have been used as spacers and the rest I will cut into planks of 1/16".
 
Marcus 

Hello everybody
 
My name is Javier Barón, I was born in 1948 and I live in Madrid, Spain. Unfortunately, I do not speak English fluently, although I am able to understand the texts written in your language.
 
Therefore, I use the Google translator and in advance I apologize for any errors that may be contained in my writings. I have been a modeller for many years and I am currently doing a series of miniatures of small work boats (I have just finished number 61 of the collection). The collection can be seen at barcosbaron.wordpress.com and although the texts are currently in Spanish, I have a nephew of mine who is bilingual busy translating them into English.
 
To complete my presentation I put some pictures of my latest work: a bisquine of Cancale in miniature (scale 1: 160).
 
If you find it interesting, I will publish some of the models in my collection in the gallery.
 

Hello Patrick. I have noticed that you have already seen photos of the overall size (4 x 8 feet) of the diorama. So I am now assuming you mean that the buoy is huge in regards to scale. That was my first impression too. They are huge, especially the ocean going buoys.
 

 
Some of the cranes they use on the buoy tenders are huge also.

Ah... updated the buoy in the process.   Looks super.  Do the solar panels generate any electricity for the lights/horn/bell????  Just kidding...

Thank you fellow model builders @BANYAN, @GrantGoodale, @paulsutcliffe, @druxey, @oneslim, @Omega1234, @KeithAug, and @mtaylor for your reactions.
Thank you Pat and Mark for your comments. Much appreciated.
_____________________________________________
All we need now is a brand new red buoy.
As usual, an ad hoc assembly of found items.
 

 

 

 

Super looking crane.  It looks like it would actually work.

Where did you find this video? I have visited this gallery a few times and it's really fun to see it being put together. The Thomson Ship Gallery is part of the Art Gallery of Ontario in Toronto, which is a stunning display space designed by Frank Gehry. A major component of the ship collection comprises the many prisoner of war bone models. I don't particularly like them, but they sure are interesting to see and they add another dimension to the display.
Thanks for the posting.
David 

Any particular time period?  By the early 18th century there was some attempt to have a standard size, but it wasn't until later in the century that it was adopted in the yards.  See, for example, Sutherland's various editions as well as the various establishments (Compiled in book form by Allan Yedlinsky) where the port size is related to number of guns  and deck (which, approximately, matches the size of the ordinance).  There is also some guidance in various treatises published during the 1750's and later (Rees, Steele, others).
 
 

Planking the deck is complete.  I used basswood and liked using the wood but each plank seems to have a different color tint.  I guess I should have paid more attention when I selected the wood at my local art supply store.

I also made some of the deck furniture.  I made whatever was to be placed into the deck planks.  The smoke stack and its coaming is not shown here. (It keeps falling over.)   The main hatch has two holes drilled into the forward covering plank. The holes are for the anchor cable.  The kit has the cable coiled on the deck and the amount of line in each coil is obviously not accurate. An anchor cable can be several leagues long and is much better stored below; thus the holes.  I’m not sure if I need rope handles on that plank.
 
Next up is more fairing of the hull in preparation of the first layer of hull planking.  There is always more sanding to be done.
 

Hey Denis you might have Planker Fasciitis! 
 
Lou

Sad to see your unique and credible work come to such a point this far into the build! Hope you are able to salvage something.
 
Lou

Good looking pump and it works which is a bonus.  As for handle length...  it might look too long to the eye but how does it measure up to full size?  

Lovey here in Autumn, mid 20’s C. 
 
I sprayed the deck dark grey as per the painting guide. Boring. Nearly all the detail script ed into the deck disappears in bland. So, back to modulation, comes up OK. It looks a bit stark in places but, tomorrow I will put the decals on, then a satin coat. That will then allow me to mask the deck area and let me paint the rest of the hull. 
 
I have used about 50% of the PE. So there is an enormous amount of pE yet to be added before weathering which will blend the deck better. 

Thanks for the likes, the comments and the following along on this adventure.
 
The first 12 guns are installed on the port side with their breeching ropes.  The traversing tackle is waiting for some Chuck Blocks.  I've drilled the holes and installed the eyebolts for the when the traversing tackle needs to be moved to pull the guns in manually along.  Also installed were the eyebolts for securing the ship's boats.  Holes have been drilled for more eyebolts for the mainmast running rigging.  Those are also on hold until the blocks arrive as I'm not about to try to rig blocks to the eyebolts in place.  The breeching has been seized to the eyebolts but instead of the two seizings shown in various references, I only did one.   My eyes have begun crossing... and I have the starboard side to do yet.
 
There's a couple of guns not quite in perfect alignment with the rest but I can live with that.
 
I'm holding off on the deck furniture until all the guns are installed and all the gun tackle is installed.  I'm not going to go through the "oops, broke something" any more if I can avoid it.  For those keeping score... three carriages were broken in the pursuit of installing them and re-made from the extra parts I made.  Fragile little things they are.
 
Anyway, enough of my blathering on, here's the pictures.
 




 

Piet,
This is beyond a powerful and moving narrative.  I want to hit "like" because of closure and your work on Java.... yet... I can't "like" it.  Maybe it's the word choice "like".   I do want to thank you for strength to share with us and I'm glad that you got your answers and have come to piece with those answers.  Very mixed emotions from all this I must admit... 

I completed the gundeck planking. Eastern I have vacation time so I can do more planking.

Hey Greg, good seeing you here. I was not aware that Face Book shows dioramas. I don't do FB though, long story about that. Has to do with my work for the US Federal Government I was part of. Need to keep a low profile, even on this forum I have to be careful with what words I use. Some trigger a "blip" on "their" screen   However, I have found and saved quite a few dioramas from YouTube, all very interesting with good info in the how to's.
 
@ Carl: My proposed diorama size is 24 X 8 inches. Display space poses a minor problem but I'll figure something out.  True about your comment on my 1:2000 scale diorama of a New England shipyard with two topsail schooners in the stocks - inside a 60 watt light bulb. I don't know if that is hot-linked in my signature. I needed a seeing-eye dog to help me with it   Am currently working on a 1:3000 scale diorama of Young America or some sort of a clipper ship. I set it aside for the time being to work on the "Java" but will continue after it is done and simultaneous work on the VOC ship again.
 
Good to see you here again John Allen, thanks for your kind comment. Yep, that's why I have my trusty seeing-eye dog at my side. No, just kidding - I use 3X reading glasses that gives me ample magnification. A 1:350 scale is not all that bad, just the delicate PE has posed a few problems, mainly that I am not familiar with it. In retrospect, I will do certain things different in the future - if I do another kit with PE - to prevent these thin wires to misbehave.
 
I started my next post on "Java" yesterday evening and half way through it just magically disappeared. Now I have to start all over again, bummer. Especially in that it will be very personal to me.  So stay tuned.
 
Cheers,

Besides building ships, I build windmills as well. This eight sided drainage windmill is a replica of one that is still in existence. When my father retired from the Dutch foreign service he worked in this mill as an accounting manager and gave me the plans of this garden windmill. 
 
Dimensions:
Roof height 28-1/2"
Max. Height 48-1/2
 
The plans, dimensions and how to build it are all in Dutch. So first I took all the measurements and recalculated them in inches so I know how much wood to purchase. Once I have all the wood I can go back to mm. 
The axel and other metal parts for the vanes I searched on Google, got a picture and recognized what it was so I know what to ask for in the store and I know my plumbing lingo. 
This goes for some of the wood as well. 
In Dutch M18, stands for multiplex watervast and the 18 is the thickness of the wood in mm. So in English the M is plywood for outdoors and 18 is about 3/4" thick. Did this with all the M's. Other wood involved is 1/8" Baltic birch and hardwood (any type). The outdoor plywood I can get at a big box store. I have plenty of hardwood in all sizes. 
Other parts are copper and aluminum tubing,  outdoor glue, tile glue to imitate the straw sides, glossy paint, primer, acrylic paints, etc. Waterproofing I am also using a spray can with that foam in it and lots of lacquer. 
 
Xeroxed two copies of the plans and started gluing templates on stiff cardboard and cut them out. 
 
Also cut out the 2 doors and 2 windows. Instead of using glass for the windows I'll use plexiglass. These will be painted van Dyk green. 
 
Marcus