lmagna

Good to know Alan.
 
OC.

Thanks Yves
The shipyard superintendent cat saw hull section 5 come out this evening so another happy dance. One more hull section!
Alan

Thank You OC, It was very disappointing at first finding that the machine set up is so critical. I suppose its obvious in retrospect; its building layers 0.2mm at a time and needs to be precise where it puts them. Its also only a $200 hobby machine so its not as sophisticated as the top end machines but now that I am getting regularly successful prints I am very happy with the printer and pleased that I decided to embark on this journey.
Alan

1/35th would be closer but still on the large size. 1/48 would also be close, but on the small side. Hopefully Mark's idea works out and you can find some figures you like and they can print them out for you in your scale.

So how do we deal with "gluing" and 'glueing"?

YEAH !!!!!!!! The Cat is Happy !!!
 
Yves

Perhaps try Shapeways and see if anyone offers something close and if so, could they scale it up or down for your scale.   

I am looking to populate my "Virginia" ship models.  The scale is 1:41.  
 
Are there places that sell that size and have figures from the late 1800s to the early 1900s?
 
So far i have only found modern navy
 
What would the closest mm size be?  Would 1/32 work

I still need to work out the interaction and interface. 
 
Right now I figure these are the basic things I'd like to be able to set...
The scale to some value from a list of more common scales.  Something like hitting an "up" and "down" button to cycle through a list of common scales. Enter the scale to any number you'd like.  A bit more complex, but probably doable. Detect the scale from measurements on existing drawing.  I'd personally find this extremely useful when trying to pull dimensions off an illustration or copies of historical plans. What units to convert to (imperial, metric).  This really comes down to what you find most convenient to think of in terms of real life.   
My plan is to mount the screen and Arduino into a small box along with a few buttons for interaction.  Alternately a slightly larger touch screen.  And also use the screen to display help information to guide the setup of the scale.  The advantage of having a little tiny computer drive the whole thing is that you can get rather detailed (in a non-complex way) with information and options.
 
My day job is being the User Experience (UX) and User Interfaces (UI) lead for a bio/life sciences product for a company you usually assume just makes printers, so this is something I want to make easy, clean, and simple.  My mantra is that any interface that requires a manual or training video is too complex, unless you're working with a very complex task to start with.  And even then, you look for ways to make it simple.  Working out scale dimensions for a model is not a complex task - laborious yes, but not complex.

Tim,
 
Nice gadget. Not hard to guess the company you work for!

A very clever idea, Tim.
 
John

I'm probably not the only person who's often measured something with digital calipers, then gone and tossed the dimensions into a scale calculator to get the real dimension.  So I came up with a little hack today to try and automate the process.  Here's a picture of the prototype...
 

 
As you can see, the little digital display on the breadboard is showing the scale being calculated (1:48 which is hardcoded at the moment), the length measured on the caliper (20.4mm) and how large that would be at 1:48 scale (3 feet, 2.6 inches).  As you move the caliper it automatically updates the display with new values.
 
As background, it ends up most cheap calipers have a digital port on them.  If you've got a caliper, look for a little slide off panel on the top with 4 contact stripes on the circuit board inside.   This puts out a digital signal for a DRO (Digital Read Out), as the guts of these things are shared with or very similar to DROs for benchtop mills and such.
 
Here's a bigger shot to show the whole thing.  On the left of the breadboard is a little Adafruit QT Py dev board (Arduino compatible) which is plugged into a small OLED display.  The cable coming out of the caliper takes ground plus data and clock signals to the Arduino.  The clock signal is being boosted from 1.5v up to 3.3v with a little transistor circuit in the middle.
 

 
I want to keep working on this as a smaller, more self contained device, obviously without so many loose wires.
 
I also want to have it so you can set the scale you want and change units.  One interesting feature would be to let it determine scale from a drawing.  You should be able to take a ship drawing for example, measure off 10 feet on the drawing's scale, and have the device tell you what the scale of the drawing is.  Then with that scale, you can start taking dimensioned lengths directly off the drawing.
 
The cable by the way is a specialized plug that goes to an RJ-11 (phone jack).  It's the same kind of plug used on DROs, and I picked up the cable from Little Machine Shop at https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3483

Hello sms_koenig_wilhelm  sorry I didn't see your message until now - there's two books that would help:
ISBN 978-5-98830-060-8   (it's in russian)  but if you seach the internet you can probably find an on-line copy of it
ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 2374680231 / ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-2374680231 - this one is in French and is also helpful
 
The drawings that I have found on the internet are pretty scant on details and there's a lot that are preliminary designs so you have to be careful and check the drawings across as many actual photographs as you can get on the Charles Martel. I Found that None of the designs actually match what was eventually built but there was enough there to get the envelop of the ship and selectively taking specific features from one drawing that were accurate and combining it with features from another drawing that has additional parts that are accurate (all along the way verifying against photographs).  Also There were changes to the design as the ship was built so I doubt there were any final "as built" plans....
 
if you compare these two drawings to the photo you can see there's notable differences across the board

projects.......what am I to say......ME with um-teen projects on the go 
 
"I plead insanity..........I'm just crazt 'bout that stuff!"
 
great job on the coach so far.........you've done some nice metal work   

thanks for the likes.... hee are my latest update , am started on the sea diorama and am also finish with the
weathering of the Dukw.. not overdue... since is in the water...
i can know place the dukw on the diorama and do some fillings around and then start shape the foam around and paint all the detail,
some part are still left of ... figure etc...  
 
svein erik
 
 

I'm late to the party..........and SO NOT disappointed !  your progress so far is totally awesome    this is the model........the tipping point for the ratio between plastic and PE!   very good scale for her too.   paint looks great as usual Greg!  

I watched a few videos on Utube from AK Interactive, there’s not much on ships but principles are the same for armour but remember at scale tanks are a lot smaller than warships. And looking at a lot of photos and trial and error. 

That is looking Superb Alan  - just look at all that detail, really nice job you are doing mate.
 
OC.

Looks great!
The cranes are slightly different than the Scharnhorst ones. Impressive that Flyhawk captures those small details rather than using a single mold.

The detail work continues. I finished the four platforms that are hung under the bridge. The last two took hours mainly because I was struggling and deforming the platform as I tried to add the Y support. Eventually the inevitable happened and the railing broke away from the platform and split in two from too much bending. I managed to find a suitable bit of spare PE railing and glued it to the platform and added it to the structure. The Y structure was abandoned for that platform - so sue me!
The final one went together quite easily for some reason and is the right hand of the two platforms in the photo below.
Adding the first of the railings was almost relaxing after that

As a bit of a diversion I started on the two large derricks. There are six plastic parts to each crane and a host of tiny PE. I decided not to use the PE parts that replace the supports for the top winches. The PE looked too delicate to adequately support the winch and then stay in place while the cables were added. I have no moral fibre I guess. 

These should look quite nice when finished i hope.
Happy Weekend
Alan
 

Thank you for the compliment OC. I hope Craig and others don't feel offended by having me lumped with their masterful efforts. 😄. I really enjoying the 1/700 scale ships
Alan

I think its a skill to be able to work out the sequences and sub assemblies that allow the most efficient and best access for painting and detailing a ship model. I used to think there was a strict formula for it but I'm increasingly of the view that there are almost infinite options depending on techniques and preferences. This time I tried to9 paint the basic structures and hull and then refine it as I add the detail. I suspect I'm going to find myself in a corner at some point but I think with a complex model like this one that might be inevitable however you plan it out. I completely forgot to paint the masts during the major painting sessions but I expected I would overlook a few things. The boats will need work at some point too.
Alan

Those masts are really nice.  In a lot of the upgrade sets from places like Five Star, etc., the sets are very detailed but usually don’t include brass mast replacements so you’re stuck with the out of scale plastic.  Infini and others do sell brass masts, but good to see that they were included in your set.
 

Hi Yves
The spool holder is next to the screws securing the vertical pillars on the left hand side. The brass eyelet is in place. There is an all metal upgrade available for the extruder along with a better Bowden tube. I'm considering it at some point.
In this case I'm thinking that the filament is badly wound onto the spool. It didn't look as neat as the last spool and after it broke I noticed it was feeding the filament from under some of the coils. I rectified that but after starting the last print I noticed that it was still spooling off teh reel from under coils. I unwrapped several yards and cleared it and i hope that fixes it.
Thanks for the help again. It is invaluable
Alan

I checked the print before going to bed last night and the filament was dragging hard as it came off teh reel. I unwound several yards of it onto the floor and found the filament was wrapped under several coils which I released and then wound it all carefully back onto teh reel.
The printer was still happily chugging away when I woke up this morning and the filament was spooling off the reel with little drag. The ptint successfully completed this afternoon.

Hull section #5 was sliced and started. To my huge delight the initial layers went down well onto the print bed and the section is developing. We have thunderstorms banging around the area so, with 23 hours still to go and 6 hours invested I am really hoping we don't have a power interruption tonight.
Happy Weekend everyone
Alan