clifforddward

Nice to see you picking back up on the ship build...I thought I was the only one who has projects that are decades old and still not finished!

Appreciate the tip Mike...just one of about a thousand techniques I need to learn to become a proficient model ship builder!

I'm enjoying following your Essex cross section build Doug...I'm starting my own Echo cross section build next month and it is good to see another making such good progress on theirs.

Welcome to Model Ship World!...you'll find a great group of open and helpful folks on this site...and as a younger fellow (most of us are north of the half century mark), you'll find a host of people who will bend over backwards to answer your questions.

Hi Ulises: I initially looked for a kit when I wanted to dive into building a POF ship model...after a short search and discovering the multitude of options available by starting with plans (with related book) it became a simple choice for me to pass on obtaining a kit and just acquire the needed components on my own. I am starting my POF experience with an Echo Cross Section build using the kit from Admiralty Models...that kit consists primarily of milled wood, plans and a set of detailed build instructions. There are a number of full frame models where the same plans/build book would be available, and milled wood will be available from several sources. Other needed components are likewise available from specialty suppliers. All the best, do post a build log when you get started whatever direction you go...

Hi Mike: Thanks for posting your build log...I've pulled up a chair to follow along as you continue your build....lot's of good info just in these first handful of postings... Newbie question for you...you mention using a #2 pencil to highlight the tar joints....do you cut a "V" channel for the pencil line, or are you just following the glue joint of the model?...or am I missing something? Best Regards, Cliff

Welcome Syd from another fellow modeler still active with the Live Steam train hobby. I'm new on the forum as well and can say everyone I've encountered has been very welcoming and helpful...I'm certain you'll find the same. What I particularly like is the group accepts new folks at whatever level there are at regarding their ship modelling abilities, beginner or advanced...all here seem to want to provide guidance and assistance to help modelers advance knowledge and skills....what more could one want! Looking forward to seeing your first build log as you start... Best Regards, Cliff

Hi Joe: Anything that bolts to the table should be fine. Accessories that attach elsewhere on the machine and rely on that alignment to function properly are likely to be best served with a Sherline made item...Think things like steady rest, taper attachment, etc. Likewise tooling that attaches to the spindle can also be universal. I'm not specifically knowledgeable about Micro Lux and Proxon accessories and their attachment to Sherline equipment, so Ill step aside and let those with that equipment answer your question more fully. Best Regards, Cliff

Danny: This is my first time seeing a paper/card ship kit being built...fascinating what detail is possible and how with a proper build the overall appearance appears much more than just paper....look forward to following along as you continue the build. Best Regards, Cliff

I like it Danny!...thank you so very much for the lead...will keep this in mind should things fall through with Alex...These monograms are an elegant solution to the issue.

Hi Russell: I re-sent my original email after doing an online translation using "Bing Translator" to Russian. Heard back from Alex the next day, he indicated he has not done casting for some time and does not remember if he still has the pattern for the cannon I asked for. It was unclear to me if he still WILL cast them if he can find the pattern...I'll make another posting here on the forum when I hear from him again...he did say he'd write back to me after looking. I suppose worst cast I could make up a pattern after turning the cannon and carving the King George insignia. Then work with an investment casting person to get them cast up in brass. Resin would perhaps be easier, but think I'd prefer brass if possible. In 1:48, these cannon could easily be accomplished by lost wax casting and while I lost my prior casting source I believe there are enough cottage industry "hobby" lost wax casters out there that I could get some cannon made up. Best Regards, Cliff

Isopropanol (Isopropyl alcohol , also referred to as "rubbing alcohol") is not the same as Ethyl Alcohol (also known as Grain Alcohol or Deenatured Alcohol) here in the USA. I believe that is the reason you were not able to release the part from the backing. The two are different in chemical nature and cannot be substituted for one another.

You'll be happy with the Sherline mill Joe...and the DRO option is a nice one. This is exactly the mill I'd be purchasing if I was in the market today. BTW, I've always found a rotary table to be a valuable accessory on a mill...in the photo of my son Cooper he is milling holes spaced around the perimeter of a flywheel for a "thumb engine" he started a dozen years or so ago...I think he was about 10 in that photo. The Thumb Engine never got finished, but that wasn't really the point at the time...he was interested in working in my shop, and I wasn't about to miss that "teachable moment". He's 19 now and studying Mechanical Engineering in college, so I suppose at some level the exercise all those years ago provided some push toward his career decision... And I've always liked the photo of him at the lathe...someday his future kids will be able to laugh at those red clogs he's wearing on his feet! All the best, Cliff

A big thank you to everyone for your comments...all very helpful. Over the weekend after studying the Echo Cross Section, a couple of Hahn builds, and several other POF options, I decided to start with the Echo Cross Section for exactly the reasons John stated in his email just above. I am most interested in learning about and mimicking full size prototype practices for my first POF model. I believe the Admiralty Models Echo cross section project represents my best "guided" option to learn on this first POF construction build. I've been in touch and have both the base kit and fitting out kit on order. There is a 4-6 week backup on the fitting out kit, and since I'm having Greg ship both together to save shipping I'll spend this short wait finishing up some "honey do" projects around the house and be ready to dive in later next month. For now I'm joining the forum carving group project so that will keep me busy in the mean time. All the best, Cliff

I'm new on the forum so I know only a few of you know me...as a self taught machinist using tools for hobby use only, I may be qualified to provide an opinion. With a long time desire to learn machining to enhance my modeling, in the mid 90's I bought a Chinese Mini Lathe and Mini Mill from one of the "parking lot" sales that were typical at the time. As I recall I paid less than $300 each for them at the time...China was trying to gain a foothold in the machine tool market in the USA and cast iron tools from China were very cheap. At the time I knew nothing about machining metal. Using these Chinese tools were a good cheap first step toward self learning, although I can say for 6 to 9 months my only "hobby" was cleaning up, straightening, and correcting these Chinese tools. At the end of a couple years of use I had them pretty much corrected to be "really useful tools" and knew what I wanted in the way of machine tools for my long term use. Here's what's currently in my workshop...I have a 9" South Bend lathe and a Benchmaster vertical knee mill. The lathe was obtained from a hobbiest who purchased it new in the mid 60's and having never been in a production environment the tolerances are very tight. It is fully tooled (the term used for all the accessories needed to make these things useful). The Benchmaster Knee mill is a bench mounted unit that has the same basic functions as larger floor mounted units like a Bridgeport or Jim's Hardinge. As can be seen in the photos, these are in a spare bedroom of our house where my workshop/office is located...I have the most understanding wife in the world....her claim is that if I had an outside space to put these things she'd never see me!....so true. I'll confirm one point also made by others on this site...when budgeting for metalworking machine tools, allow at least as much for the tooling as the base machine itself. It is the tooling that is added to the machine that makes it perform particular operations. In some cases a fairly expensive tool is needed to perform an operation that is rarely used...yet it is done so well with the metalworking machine it is worth having. These tools I have are large enough to satisfy all my hobby needs...tolerances are tight enough for me to work down to a few "tenths" (.003"). This should be satisfactory for my shipbuilding needs as well, but these machines are also far larger than I'm likely to need for model shipbuilding. As they say, it's fairly easy to make small parts on a big machine, but impossible to make big parts on too small of a machine. If I were only purchasing machines for model shipbuilding, the Sherline would be an obvious choice for all the reasons cited in this forum thread. Sherline equipment is every bit as accurate as my larger machines, and will be ready-to-use out of the box. If your desire is to immediately use the machines rather than spend time fixing/improving, I strongly suggest obtaining Sherline equipment over the Chinese Mini-lathes and Mini-mills. As for the Taig machines...I've owned one of those over the years...more accurate than the Chinese stuff, but really more geared toward setting up in a production environment to do one operation well and repeatably....not really designed as an all purpose hobby tool. Best Regards, Cliff

Danny: I'll let you know how I make out. My first email to him was in English... Best Regards, Cliff

Thank you Danny, i appreciate the quick reply...I'll reach out to Shipmodels. I've learned from other modeling efforts that when international sourcing from cottage industries is involved, a great deal of patience and time is often involved....and if you see something you like, you should be certain to obtain it when readily available. Looking at the Shipmodels site, I am reminded of comments others have said....the ship modelers in eastern Europe are quite good craftsmen!...I wonder if they have the same challenges attracting younger modelers to their ranks?

Hi Dan: I've enjoyed an amazing morning going through your HMS Vulture build log...thank you for taking the time to post this as you made the model...it is an inspiration for others. I have a question...I see you obtained your cannons from "ShipModels" and used 41mm size to represent 6 pounders for this Swan class model. My question for you is what size of Trunion Capsquares did you order? Looks like he calls these "Holders of a Pin" and they come in a variety of sizes. From your build log it sounds like the ones you obtained were 1mm longer than you would have preferred....I'd be interested to know which you ordered and if you'd recommend purchasing the next size down to use with the 41mm cannon. Eagerly await your reply....thanks! Best Regards, Cliff

Wow!...I'm overwhelmed by so many greetings and sincere ideas for my first POF build...thank you to all for the suggestions. Building the Syren Ship Model company's Cutter Cheerful would probably be an ideal fully rigged model for me to build as it appears to be a super high quality kit with a great set of instructions and wealth of detail. But my passion is Plank-on-Frame construction and I really want to build a ship model using this technique. The suggested Viking ship is very interesting, but I fear since I don't currently have a passion for that era of ship the project might languish in my hands. I've continued my research by doing a deep dive into the build logs here on the site...One project that "jumped off the page" is Admiralty Model's Echo Cross Section. Looking at their web site and the build logs here it seems well thought out and designed to be built to a very high standard. It fits the era of wooden ship models that interest me most...something I figure is highly important to carry me through completion of the project. Throughout my modeling I've always had better success completing projects that have the most interest to me. Being a cross section rather than a full hull is likely to mean I won't be biting off more than I can chew with this first POF project...I've re-read the For Beginners-Cautionary Tale a few times over the past couple of days and think I should think long and hard about taking on too big a project... Would appreciate feedback on the idea of starting with this Echo Cross Section as a first POF project....what does the group think? Now I'm not saying I'm ready to commit to building a full hull Swan class ship model, but after I build the Echo Cross section I should know if I'm interested in tackling a full ship in POF. I've written to Admiralty Models to check on availability of the cross section kit as well as the fitting out kit...or if anyone here on the forum has this kit and has gone cold on it, please reach out to me as I'd be interested in buying an unstarted kit. Best Regards, Cliff

Greetings All! I've just joined the Nautical Research Guild and am looking forward to learning from others as I get serious about model shipbuilding. I've been a modeler all my life, researching and scratchbuilding extensively as a part of my Live Steam Locomotive efforts. Along the way I've learned metalworking and have learned my way around a lathe and mill that helps my modeling efforts immensely. I've always been interested in ship modeling, particularly plank-on-frame construction and admiralty hull models. Since I'm not getting any younger (now 58), I decided a few months ago to start research and begin building a ship. I've built a few solid hull and POB model ships over the years...nothing to brag about, just enough to keep my interest and make me realize I'd eventually want to do it in a serious way. So now I find myself faced with a multitude of online builds on the internet, with a seemingly endless list of models and plans available....I am interested in working with the highest quality materials (with all the time involved why use anything less?), and am interested in finding a POF ship model to build that has enough instructional support along with community support to allow me to reach out to others when needed. I am currently considering the Oneida using a wood kit from the Lumberyard, or the Hannah using Hahn's plans & book along with a wood kit from the Lumberyard. I like the look of the Oneida better (and I suppose that alone should be the deciding factor), but wonder if Hahn's upside down construction methodology makes the Hannah a more forgiving first POF project. I'm open to other possibilities, but like the era of these ships along with their military ties. BTW, I have a fairly full complement of shop tools, including a Byrnes table saw (been using it for years cutting word for my railroad hobby), and plan to add his thickness sander soon...plus the usual complement of drill presses (large and small), disc sander, scroll saw and the like...so I'm not concerned about having the tools needed to process wood. I'm more concerned about picking a POF project where a fair degree of success is assured if I stick to it and do my part. Look forward to input from the community here... Best Regards, Cliff Cliff Ward Cary, North Carolina