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JpR62

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  1. JpR62
    Thanks to all the 'Likes'. Chuck it's a real pleasure to build this barge and I try to do it as well as I can. Yes, Chuck, I also find it easier to position the seat back with the two coxswain seats in place. In addition, I was able to use a small wooden piece to glue the seats to the correct height and in the same angle as the bench tops. The job paint is in progress...
  2. JpR62
    Thanks to all the 'Likes'. I have begin to work on the two benches. I just made a small change in the sequence of the steps. I preferred to glue the two coxswain seats before to add the bench seat back. I found that it was easier to fill any gaps on this two seats without the presence of the bench seat back. I will paint now all the whole back part at the back of the bench seat before to glue it. Nothing to see with this build log but a good news for me. My son is back home after ten months in the Swiss air force army. He was crew member on super puma helicopter with the rank of sergeant. A little photo that I took during the parent's day. Glad he did his obligatory military service. 😎 Sign that time is passing... I performed my military service more than thirty years ago in the military band.
  3. JpR62
    Thanks guys for your advice and thanks to all the 'Likes' I know now how to continue. Time for sanding...
  4. JpR62
    The second planking is finished. Now it's time to sand a little. I need some advice for the next step. What should use to sand the hull ? Some sandpaper, or a sanding sticks, or a scrapper, or a sanding block ? Which grain should I use ? 220 ? 300 ? Thank You in advance for your advice.
  5. JpR62
    Wonderful job. A great inspiration for my build. As I will soon begin to work on the deck planking, I will try to get inspired by your fantastic work. Thank You for sharing !
  6. JpR62
    Thanks for Your answer. I'm not a big fan of CA glue and I also prefer to use Titebond. The CA sticks my fingers more often than it should 😂
  7. JpR62
    Hello Mike, Superb work on these first planks ! What kind of glue did You use ? Medium CA or wood glue ? I know that Chuck recommends using medium CA. Thanks in advance for Your answer.
  8. JpR62
    As usual with kit from Syren Ship Model Company, everything is perfect. Looking forward to receiving mine...
  9. JpR62
    The lower moldings were added after some painting job. I also started to glue the interior planks. I sanded the top edge flush with the top of the cap rail after using some lightweight filler to fill the little gaps. The building is really fun 😊
  10. JpR62
    I'm on board too. This is the first message of my log on the Medway Longboat build. Impatient to learn new techniques. Sure it will be very rewarding.
  11. JpR62
    The second planking continues slowly but surely. Belt A is now complete and I started working on belt B. Since I don't like to work with cyanoacrylate and I only use wood glue (Titebond), the process takes time... Nothing is really finished. It's just glued and there are many small gaps to fill and a lot of sanding. But this will be done once the second layer is completed.
  12. JpR62
    Small advance of the week. Top molding was glued. All the small interstices between the molding and the cap rail were filled and were sanded using a 320 sheet of sandpaper. I will now paint the space between the upper and the future lower molding. Its seems easier with only one molding in place. The lower molding will be added once the painting is done.
  13. JpR62
    Oops... Sorry... Just a little too late... The same idea at the same time... 😂
  14. JpR62
    And they will also publish a monograph on a traditional Mediterranean Fishing Vessel : S. Caterina - a Pointu Méditérranéen - 1759 It would be a smaller project but equally interesting. https://ancre.fr/en/monograph/92-s-caterina-pointu-mediterraneen-1759.html
  15. JpR62
    As I'm working on the second planking on my Armed Virginia Sloop, I'm just thinking of a solution to produce the moldings for the Barge. As this moldings are found on most ships, I decided to order a set of Micro Shapers from Artesiana Latina. They will be useful very often. When I received them, I was a little disappointed because no one has the right size... They are all too large for the 1/32" x 3/64" boxwood strips. I first try to modify one of the scraper but the metal is too hard and my files too big... The result is disastrous and unusable... So I solve the problem by an another way and I glue a needle on the back of the Shapers using a two-component epoxy glue. I fix a boxwood strip on a metal jig using double-sided tape. and I can use the scraper to create the molding passing several times slightly. Now that the tool is available, I will finally be able to move forward...
  16. JpR62
    Still interested. This longboat is a beauty !
  17. JpR62
    Using the tick strip method, I divide each strip in 12 sections of the same width. The planking fan greatly facilitates the task. All the marks were reported on each bulkhead. Time to spill the planks...
  18. JpR62
    Thanks Brian for your help. I will follow the tic strip method. This advice confirms what I thought.
  19. JpR62
    Thanks for all the 'likes'. I need an advice on the way I must work on the belts A and B. I know approximately the shape of the two belts. Based on the plan, I positionned a strip of tape to separate the two belts. I will use the method described by Chuck Passaro in the Cheerful instruction manual. So I measured using paper strips the size of the work area at each bulkhead. I just need to trace the separation between the twelve planks. Normally I must separate the area (in the center of the hull) into twelve equals bands The result implies that the width of the planks do not correspond to standard widths (4 mm or 5 mm). Each board should be debited to the correct size... I have two others options. I can use standard strips of 5 mm for the three first rows under the blake strake and : Option 1 : if I need to have two belts of the same size, the last 3 rows for the belt A will be of a different size of the 6 rows of belt B Option 2 : I divide the 9 remaining rows in 9 rows of equal width. The belt A and the belt B will be of different width. My question : which option to choose ? The first one seems to me the most adequate...
  20. JpR62
    The final planking of the belt C is done. I started by building a small support so I could work with the keel upside down. Then I tried for this belt to follow precisely the plan. At the stern, I inserted two stealers in accordance with the plan. I will now work on the belt A
  21. JpR62
    Thanks Brian and all the Likes. Brian, I will follow your advice and I will make the adjustments when the deck is finished. Normally this should be ok because a test was done with a piece of scrap wood (thickness of the deck planking) for the location of the quoin. I will sand the bottom of the trucks if necessary. Thank You for following my build.
  22. JpR62
    Back from the holidays. My daughter is returning to school and my son is still in the swiss army for his obligatory service. Back to the workshop. All guns are now completed. It was really a part of pleasure. Very pleased with the quality of the guns from the Syren Ship Model company. Thanks Chuck. Now it's time to finish the hull...
  23. JpR62
    As I was on the way of trenailing on the queen Anne barge, I decide to continue the same job with the Virginia Sloop. But this time, I try to apply the method described by Chuck in the Cheerful instruction manual. For the schema, I referred to the photos in Clayton A. Feldman's book 'Modeling an armed Virginia Sloop'. This book is truly a source of first rate information ! For the choice of the color of the wood putty, I hesitated between two shades: Golden oak or Natural Pine. Finally, I mixed the two shades in equal parts to obtain the color that seemed to me the most balanced. In order to better position the holes, I recovered the little jig used when working on the queen barge. I simply cut it to the length corresponding to the height of the gun ports. The method is simple: using the little jig, I mark the location of the future holes with the needle holder. The holes are drilled with a 7 mm drill bit. I round the hole with the tip of a sharp pencil. The there is more to fill the cavity with the wood putty using a toothpick beveled.
  24. JpR62
    The process of treenailing is finished. I decided to put two nails between the frames. I ordered some 10lb black line so that the result is light enough. I built a jig by gluing two strip of woods leaving a gap of 1mm between the two pieces. On the opposite side, I then traced, with a well-sharpened pencil, small marks at a distance of 6mm. Then just put the jig at the bottom of the plank and mark the location to drill using the needle holder. You will have the mark at one millimeter of the bottom edge and spaced 6 mm. To put the treenails I followed the instructions provided by the manual. The size of the drill bit is 0.3mm. Just be sure to use a sharp blade to cut the line. It took a while because there were a little over 300 treenails to glue... but I am quite satisfied with the result. Now it's time to work on the moldings and to take out my brushes...
  25. JpR62
    How to get colors by playing on the different essence of the woods. Superb result !

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