twintrow

Excellent planking Glenn. I've often wondered though, why when we pay such particular attention to scale every where else on the model, we use long strips of wood (often the full length of the hull) on the final planking. I admit it really looks "neat" when the planks run the length of the hull. But in reality there is a described length attributed to those planks. Shouldn't we use scale length planks as well?? Just asking. Tom

For the tall grass, consider buying a tire brush at any automotive store. There are plastic ones but sometimes you can find the natural bristle type. Failing that drive around til you see some dead grass and snatch up a handful. I'd spray it with a clear dull cost then glue in. Tom

The main reason I started building wooden ships is that I like the WOOD in the ships. Painting them takes away from the "feel" of the ship I think. Of course there are some ships that need a certain amount of color to fit the time frame of the model. But generally I would rather not add paint. I prefer an all wood look for the Endeavour for example, but see the necessity to paint a crabber, or even a Greek Bireme. MHO Tom

Check this out. Dad made a prosthetic hand for his son using a 3D printer, cost less the machine. Roughly 10 bucks!! Even if we never get to have parts for our ships this has to be one of the greatest new tools for humanity. Tom http://video.foxnews.com/v/2796603075001/father-makes-sons-prosthetic-hand-with-3d-printer/

Modeller You don't say which of the several Constitution kits you are working on. You can go to the kit build logs forum and see several different Constitutions being built there, may help you somewhat. Tom

Sorry about that Bob...hope you had her insured. At least you can get paid for the extra work. Tom

Nice job on the video Jay. And a good technique. It says more to come at the end....when will that be ;o) Oh one more thing, what kind of cloth are you using? Tom

Steamwake Since you ave the plastic sails in the shape you want, try cutting some fine line to size, soak in a 50/50 mixture of white glue and water, drape over the plastic sail to dry. When removed should be near the full shape of the plastic ones. To even enhance that shape, run thin wire inside the edges of the linen sail, shape it to the desired fullness. good luck Tom

No of course not, but the Aliens did help him find the island he was looking for, sadly they were using an old map that hadn't yet been updated. Which is all the evidence I need that the Aliens are in fact our own Government workers! Tom

Mark I use what I think is a simple method. As shown in the sketch, I drill the hole for the eyebolt, then bend up the end of the eyebolt as shown, insert into the hole (usually I can feel the bent portion clear, if not shorten the bend til I do) test by pulling on the eyebolt, it loks it self in place and h=ave never had one fail or come out. Good luck Tom

Spencer Your plans look like the ones one can download for free fro the Russian site. No provenance is given. They obviously are quite different, I have suspicions about the Russian plans authenticity. Tom

You should have a rabbet in the false keel. it will probably run true to the bottom of each bulkhead. Check the plans and see where the rabbet is placed. It isn't that they aren't seated deep enough, there should be some room at the bottom for the rabbet. That is assuming I understand the question correctly. Tom

Martin: Model Expo usually has good dead eyes, various sizes. And if you get some you don't like they are more than willing to exchange them for better ones. Often they are on sale too. When I buy them I try and buy the bulk lots....better bargain. Tom

If multi-legged creature, probably a silverfish....they travel the globe in cardboard boxes. My exterminator explained this to me. She suggests always taking the cardboard boxes to the trash outside immediately after opening and emptying them. Otherwise as druxey, Brian c and Norman suggests. Tom

Ulises Sent you a pm. Be glad to send you some. Tom

Casey as an American living in the 21st Century I don't like waiting on anything....I stand in front of the microwave yelling "hurry up", so I don't like "soaking " anything for a period of time, except for planks as needed on bluff bows. I try to avoid the need to clean the extender by applying a little preventive maintenance and clearing the extender with air as described. However when I get a little lax and forget, then I chop off an 1/8th on an inch or so and move on. Tom

Nigel, after applying the CA set the bottle upright, squeeze it enough to express the air out and clean the the extender, it won't get clogged near as often and will extend the life of the extender quite nicely. Tom

Frank did you notice any shrinkage or distortion with the printed page? I guess if you set the printer for full size it should come out pretty close? thanks Tom

Arizonasun. What scale?? Beautiful build by the way. Tom

That is an ugly picture you paint of us John, accurate, but ugly. I'll bet you did fill a lot of "schnooers" though ;o) Tom

"MODEL SHIP BAR"???? Never heard of one of those. Unfortunately I would imagine it being a very quiet place with only a couple blokes in it. Certainly would be an interesting place to have a brew or two though. Tom

robboxxx allow me to offer another opinion of what you wrote. I think that everyone wants what they build to be as accurate as possible. Having said that, many builders like myself, also want the best value they can get. Many NEW modelers go to Al and/or Constructo, because of price. And maybe the presentation of the model on the box. These folks may also buy the Chinese rip offs not knowing or understanding that they are supporting intellectual theft, just because of the price. . Beginning builders generally are not familiar enough with the ships to begin with. And may only attempt to build occasionally. Then there are those of us that take up shipbuilding as a full time hobby. Within those numbers are those who are not necessarily interested in conducting the necessary research to build an "authentic reproduction" of a particular ship. Good enough is good enough. And sometimes adequate is adequate. The really serious builders are those who will wait for months (and sometimes years) for a particular model to be produced. or as you say will progress into "scratch building" to assure they have done their best to be accurate. The neat thing about all this is that sometimes, maybe even frequently, the casual builder decides adequate is not adequate and wants to be better. These folks will probably seek out a site like MSW to learn more about the hobby, see the quality that is attainable and strive for that as well. again, IMHO Tom Anyway, we must endeavor to assist the newbies and proudly watch their progress to experienced builders. IMHO that is one reason why MS exists and consistently provides the best information on the web to shipbuilders, newbies and salts!

While I agree that "a league table" sounds like a grand idea, my concern would be who determines the level of accuracy We have seem threads that go on infinitum on what is or isn't historically accurate. We would first have to create a rating system based on either input from a selected group of volunteers, or comment section in which impressions are expressed and the users makes their own determination to use. Many of us just want to build a good looking model and aren't particularly concerned about historical accuracy. Lord knows there are many really well done models in the gallery that have out of scale belaying pins and/or blocks. yet are considered excellent models. probably a peer rating system as to historical accuracy is the way to go. Then later someone will critique the rating system as they now critique the "skill level" mfg ratings ;o) MHO Tom

Jay, over at Modelshipbuilder.com, at the home page look for "Projects", click on it then at the bottom of the list of projects is the Eagle build. Click on that, below the Eagle picture it says "click here for practicum", click it and starting at Chapter one there is an excellent article on lofting. I think you will find it most helpful Tom

You can always run strip of teflon tape under the sliders. It comes in a roll like scotch tape, one side sticky. Tom