twintrow

OK I did a little more reseach to satisfy myself about the differences in the illustrations. I ws not aware of this but probably many of you already are, but I'll tel it anyway for my satisfaction. There were 3 Enterprises from 1775 on to approx 1812. Two schooners and the third a brig. The following is from https://shipwiki.wikispaces.com/Enterprise The name Enterprise has a long history in US naval service, going back to 1775, prior to the formal creation of the US Navy. The third USS Enterprise fought in the major wars like the Quasi-War with France, the First Barbary War, and the War of 1812. " The famous little schooner Enterprise, the pet of the early American navy, was a Baltimore schooner carrying square topsails, a typical clipper built in 1799. She served in so many engagements and came through unscathed that she seemed to bear a charmed life. She captured ninetenn vessels in the West Indies and went through five engagements at sea in 1800 and when war with Tripoli was declared in 1801 she went over to the Mediterranean, and did good work." American Sailing ships: Their Plans and History by Charles G. Davis. In her career of 24, the third USS Enterprise engaged in many battles and never failed to capture her antagonist. It fought in the the Quasi-war with France, the Barbary Wars, the War of 1812, and against pirates, slavers and smugglers in US waters. In these duties the brig captured, defeated or recovered 3 dozen ships. Her most famous battle was that with the British brig Boxer off the Maine coast in 1813. On 9 July 1823 she ran aground and was lost. For the War of 1812, you may further read the page for The Journal of The War of 1812. For detailed information about Voyages of Enterprise, click http://sandcastlevi.com/sea/enterprise/intro.html For a ship directory listing voyages of Enterprise, please visit http://sandcastlevi.com/sea/enterprise/voyappa.ht Tom

It is amazing how different each depiction is one from the other.The half hull looks to be a bluff bow, and the first gun opening is very near the stern, where as the 2 illustrations on page 2 the bottom shows a sharp bow the top one shows a bluff bow....and the sternmost gun opening is different in both pictures. The differences continue though out all the depictions. Too many to define here. I'd say you need to start with what can best be described by the "experts" as a true representation. Quite a chore ahead there Charlie. Good luck Tom

Reminds me of my little story re: table saw. When I was 10 my Dad said he would make me a bow. He admonished me NOT TO TOUCH THE SAW while he was at work, so, of course I immediately went to the saw and began to shape the bow. And also of course, I cut my thumb badly while doing so. (Longer version of the story was reaching our nearest neighbor and using a hand crank telephone while bleeding). Anyway the cut was repaired and I have used the scar many times while instructing my kids about saw safety. Advance 20 years, my oldest son has just bought his first table saw.....two days later he calls to say, OK I'm now an adult, I just got back from Urgent Care, they put in 15 stitches in my thumb but I'll be fine. He somehow saw the event as a right of passage......;o) Tom

I have a roll around tool cabinet I made. It has 2 drawers. When I want to work on the upper rigging, I pull out one of the drawers , place a small board across the drawer and have an instant table. Adjustable to two heights. Tom

Jhenrique Try this site, there may be drawings here that interest you https://matthewsmodelmarine.wordpress.com/writings/ships%E2%80%99-plans-from-the-historic-american-engineering-record/ You did say "any ship". Tom

Same as answer for How pretty is too pretty, or how tasty is too tasty????? Tom

Look for Iris Scissors on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Iris-Scissors-4-5-Curved-Surgical-Dental-Instruments-/190699065234?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c668ccf92

Thanks everyone for the info and suggestions. Canute I think your suggestion maybe what I'm looking for. Didn't think of using a router. Incidentally while looking for dado info I ran across some Youtube videos that are published by a guy Named Izzy Swan. Just search his name. He has over a hundred "jigs" for many purposes. I lied the one on making dowels. A few others that may or may not be relevant to ship building. Tom

Seems like a set of dado blades would be a handy option for the Byrnes saw. Just for making deck furniture and other things. Any suggestions?? Thanks Tom

I would go with the AOTS, generally a better authority than the Mfg. Then find a photo of the rigging for verification. There must be a million on line. Tom

One the sails are completed and mounted in place....then just spray light coat of clear matte spray. Should do the trick nicely. Actually I usually spray the entire model with clear matte. It evens out all the colors and gives a more realistic sheen. Tom

With all the differing opinions and references, I thought I'd get the opinion from an expert. So I wrote to Don Pruel Curator of the Maritime Museum and asked if they use beeswax or conservation wax when re-rigging museum models (including the Rogers Collection). His response follows: Hi Tom, Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Yes we do use beeswax for our rigging line. When creating a three stranded line we wax each line before we place it on the ropewalk. Once that is completed we wax it again and then remove it from the machine and place it in the microwave to cook for a minute. We then remove it and hang it with a light weight at the end. Don Preul

I think KISS is actually "Keep it simple stupid"!......I can recall hearing it daily while working as an engineer at the Cape in the 60s. Tom

Skipper 1947 I herewith confess to a mistake I made several years ago and since I've never told anyone this is sort of like baring ones soul. I built an absolutely beautiful ship on commission. Over the years I have seen it 10 times or so....on about the 5th visit, I was admiring her and gasped as I was looking at the shrouds....I had forgotten to put on the ratlines!!! Still haven't and am far to prideful to point it out. I know that i will and probably soon having admitted it finally. Point to be made is.....EVERYONE has or will make a mistake. Like was said before no one probably has seen the mistakes you have made until you point them out. We see what we want to see.....I know I have shown my subject ships to at least 20 shipbuilders, either no one saw that the rat lines were missing, or were too embarrassed, for me, to mention. Just say you did it that way on purpose to give the ship some character, and make it unique!!! Tom

Ian I recently saw this on another site and can't give proper attribution, I forgot who posted it (sorry to the originator). It shows most all of the various names boxwood is know as....: West Indian boxwood is a trade name Castello boxwood is a made up name both of these are not in the Buxus family Buxus austro-yunnanensis (Yunnan Box; southwest China) Buxus balearica (Balearic Box; Balearic Islands, southern Spain, northwest Africa) Buxus bodinieri (China) Buxus cephalantha (China) Buxus cochinchinensis (Malaysia) Buxus colchica (Georgian Box; western Caucasus; considered also a syn. of B. sempervirens) Buxus hainanensis (Hainan Box; China: Hainan) Buxus harlandii (Harland's Box; southern China) Buxus hebecarpa (China) Buxus henryi (Henry's Box; China) Buxus hyrcana (Caspian Box; Alborz, eastern Caucasus; considered also a syn. of B. sempervirens) Buxus ichangensis (China) Buxus latistyla (China) Buxus linearifolia (China) Buxus megistophylla (China) Buxus microphylla (Japanese Box; Korea, China; long cultivated in Japan) Buxus mollicula (China) Buxus myrica (China) Buxus papillosa (western Himalaya) Buxus pubiramea (China) Buxus rivularis (Philippines) Buxus rolfei (Borneo) Buxus rugulosa (China, eastern Himalaya) Buxus rupicola (Malaysia) Buxus sempervirens (Common Box or European Box; western and southern Europe, except far southwest) Buxus sinica (Chinese Box; China, Korea, Japan) Buxus stenophylla (China) Buxus wallichiana (Himalayan Box; Himalaya) Africa, Madagascar Buxus acuminata (Africa: Zaire; syn. Notobuxus acuminata) Buxus calcarea (Madagascar endemic) Buxus capuronii (Madagascar endemic) Buxus hildebrantii (eastern Africa: Somalia, Ethiopia) Buxus humbertii (Humbert's Box; Madagascar endemic) Buxus itremoensis (Madagascar endemic) Buxus lisowskii (Congo) Buxus macowanii (Cape Box; eastern and northern South Africa) Buxus macrocarpa (Madagascar endemic) Buxus madagascarica (Madagascan Box; Madagascar, Comoros) Buxus monticola (Madagascar endemic) Buxus moratii (Madagascar, Comoros) Buxus natalensis (Natal Box; eastern South Africa; syn. Notobuxus natalensis) Buxus obtusifolia (eastern Africa; syn. Notobuxus obtusifolia) Buxus rabenantoandroi (Madagascar endemic; syn. B. angustifolia GE Schatz & Lowry non Mill.) Americas Buxus aneura (Cuba) Buxus bartletii (Central America) Buxus brevipes (Cuba) Buxus citrifolia (Venezuela) Buxus crassifolia (Cuba) Buxus ekmanii (Cuba) Buxus excisa (Cuba) Buxus heterophylla (Cuba) Buxus imbricata (Cuba) Buxus lancifolia (Mexico) Buxus macrophylla (Central America) Buxus mexicana (Mexico) Buxus muelleriana (Cuba) Buxus olivacea (Cuba) Buxus pilosula (Cuba) Buxus portoricensis (Puerto Rico) Buxus pubescens (Mexico) Buxus rheedioides (Cuba) Buxus vahlii (Vahl's Box or Smooth Box; Puerto Rico; syn. B. laevigata)

Richard here is photo of a 1763 cutter windlass type..see the whole thread here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10370-18th-and-early-19th-century-cutter-models/

Mike what is the scale of the build??? You may want to establish that then verify you want 2mm. As George says the sounds pretty big. You may get a rough idea of the scale by measuring the width of the deck planks, that is assuming they are to scale or near scale. Or by the base dia of the main mast. Tom

I generally will fill the hole with glue (not diluted) then take a little pile of the wood dust place it over the hole , rubbing it around, adding more dust as needed until the hole is flush. Then lightly sand when dry. Takes stain well, and if the hole is completely filled and sanded smooth it is barely visible. Tom

Mike: Go to this site http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/ Chuck has the best most authentic scale rope around....if he doesn't have exactly what you need email him and ask if it is possible to get. You won't be disappointed. Tom

I wouldn't start over....I'd fill the holes already drilled, then taking a small flat file, using the edge of the flat file, file the slots on the edge aligned with the where the holes were, then place the dead eyes in the slots and then put the covering strip on. Really an easy fix, I've done it myself, back with one my first builds. Lesson learned, NEXT. Good luck Tom

First suggestion, post the same question on the "Built a ship from card? Then discuss it here! Questions and reviews" forum, there you are more likely to reach folks who do card models. I always thought some of the card models almost look too good to be paper.....but they really are. Tom

Magnus I'd leave his posture and stance as is after all he was probably a shop keeper last year!!!! About ten years ago I was designing aircraft for MS Combat Flight Simulator WWII edition. We used FSDS (Flight Simulator Design Studio) or Gmax. Doing animations was a brand new thing then, I can tell you what you have achieved is a testament to your skills, but also a testament to the designers of the CAD program you are using. Another few years and we won't be able to tel CGI from real life. And we my finally get a sea battle game for tall ships as good as the flight sims. I'll keep watching in awe. Tom

Good ideas Kees, my problem is those organizers are never large enough....I always have "stuff" left over and they take up room on my build desk. I bought a couple magnetic strips to run across the face of my desk, that helps. Tom

Just saw this while looking for a source for Sig Silkspan, source of quote is the Stuntbarn an RC Forum: "Title: Silk Span Covering Post by: ericrule on October 22, 2012, 12:10:29 PM I just got off the telephone with Sig Mfg where they informed me that they will no longer have silk span available. At the present time they have only OO (Light) in stock and when that is gone they will no longer be able to obtain it. According to the person I spoke to the company that supplied the silk span is out of business and they can not find any other supplier. Mike is searching for a new source but it does not look like he is having any luck." So not sure if real or not....? But if true silkspan may not be around loong?? Tom

Click on the Nautical Research Guild Home Page straight up to the top of the page, then, click on Ship Modeling Resources, then, click on Ship Modeling Database of Articles, Then click Rigging and Sails, then click the pdf "Making and forming sails for your model." I could have pasted the direct link, but thought it better for you to see everything that was available here on MSW. You can go to a Joanne's or any yard goods store and buy Egyptian cotton, almost silk like. Coffee and/or tea make good stains, very controllable. I'm certain there will be other suggestions to follow.... Tom