JerseyCity Frankie

I hope this isn’t too off topic but speaking of HMS Pickle I see you’re  quoting the figure of 14 guns? “Pierced for 14 gun’s but carrying four”. Wikipedia says eight guns and I’ve also seen Ten guns quoted. Where are you getting the 14 gunports figure? I ask because I’m researching a painting of the Pickle and it turns out I keep changing the gunports as I come across more references.

Likely it’s a good idea to attach that lower sheet block now, your instinct is quite right. If it was me, I’d strop the block using wire and I’d just form an eye over the traveler (often called a Horse) while I was at it.
 
I’m skeptical of the single block shown in the photo, I believe a double block is more likely given the loads involved with the Main Sheet. In my opinion. 

Evening,
A quiet night at home, Red Sox on the TV, time for an update.
 
The Catheads were finished off with the brass rods. 
These were blackened with Birchwood-Casey. They were such a good fit, I used no glue.
If they slip later on, I'll add a dab of CA.
 
The eyebolts are glued in. 
I may add the Bullseyes to the 3 eyebolts facing the Bowsprit before installing, just feels logical. 

The Main Topmast was primed. 
After the Main Topmast, all that's left is the Main Topgallant/Royal mast to build. 
Then the Yards will be started after that.
While the Yards are being built, I hope to be at a stage where I'm mounting Cannon and furniture to the deck. 
Rigging after that?!?!?!?!?    😨
 

After a good dry, It has it's coat of buff. 
As much as I'm trying to stay away from the Buff paint, I'm still using it for the masts.
In my little mind, I was thinking if they were dark colored masts, the rigging will just blend right in and be hard to see. 
The very top and bottom will still be black. 

I started shaping the Mooring Chocks. 

These weren't too bad, but a good pair of reading glasses were needed!
These will be painted black. 

The Main Rail also had it's first coat of black. 
With successive coats, the paint "lines" coming from the underneath should get covered.

Tom E 
 
 
 
 

Hello Dubz,
I missed all of the early part of your Sherbourne build so excuse me. Have the other Slade designs FERRET and LURCHER been any help to you? There is a good plan of LURCHER in the Dansk archives:

 
Also, another drawing of LURCHER, ref: D3525, is in the Dansk archives but it is not digitised. I believe it is another view of hull/deck details, not sailplan, but have not seen it.
I hope this helps, perhaps just more pieces of the puzzle.

Once the irons being fixed one can see the difference in V1 to the actual version. As the first build just developed without further planing, it was not possible to fix all the irons properly as for the ports, so it was good to have a fall back version and to start anew 🙂
 

 

 
An after all this fiddling with the small tiny chain links it was good to fix something bigger in a decent size ...
 

 
... the port for the main tack, the batten for the channel board being fixed, some ringbolts to straighten the shrouds and the missing port lids ...
 

 
... splashed some paint ...
 

 

 
... the side half door lids with the painted frieze ...
 

 

 
... and the very elegant conduct of the lifting halliard of the foremost gun port lid 🙂
 

 

 
XXXDAn

In my build log of my Constitution restoration/rebuild I tackle the same issue and there’s photos of the steps I took to fake the hull planking. I faked the coppering too. My hull was dented and gouged so I used acrylic modeling paste then two coats of krylon spray primer. I painted the hull with acrylic then scribed the planking details. I put thinned acrylic dark paint over the hull then burnished/buffed it off with a rag when it was 80% dry and this left dark paint down inside the scribed lines which accentuated the planking. 

In my build log of my Constitution restoration/rebuild I tackle the same issue and there’s photos of the steps I took to fake the hull planking. I faked the coppering too. My hull was dented and gouged so I used acrylic modeling paste then two coats of krylon spray primer. I painted the hull with acrylic then scribed the planking details. I put thinned acrylic dark paint over the hull then burnished/buffed it off with a rag when it was 80% dry and this left dark paint down inside the scribed lines which accentuated the planking. 

In my build log of my Constitution restoration/rebuild I tackle the same issue and there’s photos of the steps I took to fake the hull planking. I faked the coppering too. My hull was dented and gouged so I used acrylic modeling paste then two coats of krylon spray primer. I painted the hull with acrylic then scribed the planking details. I put thinned acrylic dark paint over the hull then burnished/buffed it off with a rag when it was 80% dry and this left dark paint down inside the scribed lines which accentuated the planking. 

In my build log of my Constitution restoration/rebuild I tackle the same issue and there’s photos of the steps I took to fake the hull planking. I faked the coppering too. My hull was dented and gouged so I used acrylic modeling paste then two coats of krylon spray primer. I painted the hull with acrylic then scribed the planking details. I put thinned acrylic dark paint over the hull then burnished/buffed it off with a rag when it was 80% dry and this left dark paint down inside the scribed lines which accentuated the planking. 

In my build log of my Constitution restoration/rebuild I tackle the same issue and there’s photos of the steps I took to fake the hull planking. I faked the coppering too. My hull was dented and gouged so I used acrylic modeling paste then two coats of krylon spray primer. I painted the hull with acrylic then scribed the planking details. I put thinned acrylic dark paint over the hull then burnished/buffed it off with a rag when it was 80% dry and this left dark paint down inside the scribed lines which accentuated the planking. 

Hi,
 
If you PM or email me, I will give you 10% off your next BlueJacket kit once you finish this build. That is a standing offer I have to promote build logs.
 
Nic

I am working on a Mantua Models kit from the 1980s. The kit supplies some pretty nice looking "rope." The instructions call it "canupa" or "rigging yarn." In one place it is called "hemp." Now you know as much as I do about it.
 
I wanted to use this for the breeching lines for the cannons, and I wanted to create a cut splice to fit over the cascabels on the cannons. This was common practice in the 1800s for cannons that did not have a breeching ring.
 
The rope is only 0.026 inch diameter, so I have no intention of trying to create a true cut splice by intertwining the individual threads!
 
With all other threads/twines I have used it was a simple matter to just cut the rope and glue the cut ends to the opposite cord, creating the cut splice. I decided to use cyanoacrylate "super glue" because it sets up fast. The instructions on the tube said to hold the pieces together at least 5 seconds. After a minute the glue had not set to hold the two strands together (however, it was trying to glue my fingers together)!
 
I tried white glue, with the same results.
 
Then I tried Duco Cement, a glue that works well for gluing wood. After the pieces were held together 20-30 seconds the glue did set up a bit, but it was not holding the threads together very well. After applying more glue and holding the pieces together for about a minute enough glue hardened around the lines to hold them together. After leaving it over night I did get a fairly strong attachment. But I think it is only because a film of glue has hardened around the threads of the rope.

This was a new one for me - a totally unanticipated problem.
 
Any thoughts or suggestions why nothing seems to stick to this rope?
 

My Niagara is FINISHED!
 
And before anyone points it out; i know that is not the correct flag (should have 15 stars and stripes) but us poor backwoods types, stuck in the wilds of western Pennsylvania never managed to get the correct flag from those responsible for such things back at the "seat of Government" so we used what we had - like many items used in the actual construction of Niagara (and Lawrence) - they used what they had. In all seriousness this is my first try at rigging a  flag so I took the cowards way out and bought one that was as close as the correct one as I could find. I did try the Chuck Passaro method explained in the Cheerful monograph but could not get a satisfactory result - I probably do not have the "correct" tissue paper - I tried three different types and then resorted to a commercial one from Model Expo.
 
Here are some pictures of Niagara before she goes in the case which I don't have just yet. I will get some more pictures after I clean up the shop and find a more presentable background (assuming there is one).

In the context of a block in the age of wooden sailing ships the Strop is the rope that permenantly encircles the block and is the part that provides the attachment point where the block is positioned in the rig. It’s nearly always a Rope Grommet that has the block itself seized within it with its extra length formed into an eye. Often the strops were wormed served parceled and tarred to give them the greatest possible longevityand this made them black. But if you google “stropped block” today you get modern photos of rope stropped blocks which nearly all appear to be made for demonstration or decorative purposes and all of these are just the color of the rope, tarnish brown.

Hi mate, 
It turned out (again) that the simpliest solution is the best! I Just take something what is called in my language "prubojnik" and do the holes There. Mega perfect it matches the laser very well. 
All the hull after oil! Looks awesome 

The planking is finished. 

Now it can be taken off the jig

Sheer clamps installed

Keel, stem and Stern post preparation

Size comparison with 95mm boat

I have started with the boat. It is so tiny but So far I did not destroy any part. So all good. It has different assembly approach than 95mm boat from MK. 
1. Keel
First you do 3 "puzzle" sheets

Then you glue them together and bevel both sides as necessary

After you can remove the center 

2. Building jig

3. Frames
Here you have to be really careful not to brake the frame. It is made of pear strip 0.6x0.6mm. Once soaked in water it becomes softer 

4. Planking
First 2 rows in place. 
 
 

Thanks Jim.
 
I have been "messing around" with the tack and sheet lines for the main and fore courses. I already bit the bullet and installed bumkins for the fore course tacks. The sheaves and cleats for the fore and main sheet lines are already in place so I don't have to do anything there except install the eyebolts on the exterior and run the lines. So with the bumpkins installed the fore course tacks and sheets are ready to go.
For the main course the sheets are ready (eyebolts installed) but the tacks are a question. The plans say that the main course was "seldom used" but if used "hook the tack to any convenient place on the fore channels". I decided to at least partially replicate for the main tack what is present for the fore sheets. I was not ready to cut into the bulkheads to put sheaves in so decided to put a fairlead in the sweep port and add a cleat to the bulkhead for the main tack. Using the same distance as from the fore mast to the bumkin for the main mast to tack location puts it very close to where the fore sheet in belayed so I added the fairlead and cleat in the same area (between gunports 4 and 5).
 
I also went to my "to be installed" box and found the ship's belfry and since the fo'c'sle is "done" decided now was as good a time as any to install the belfry. 
And looking forward to the braces I did a trial run of the main braces.
 
 

Getting back to the topic I see some people are suggesting that some of the rigging problems in the book can be chalked up to “captains choice” in that variations in real-world use could explain away discrepancies. Yet many of the issues in the book are simply illogical or unworkable, such as the Cutter toprope issue I wrote about in this thread way back in 2017. Glancing again at the book I see the illustration for the Schooners Toprope is ALSO flawed, and the brief blurb saying “two different solutions” suggests that the author was NOT using a single schooner model as an example. One of his odd “solutions “ is to run the Toprope through a block, circled in red, that performs no function whatsoever, the line in this example could not run. And as I mentioned back in 2017, topropes are not fixed parts of the rig, they are in use only when lowering or raising the topmast and so would never be spliced to anything, at either end.

Getting back to the topic I see some people are suggesting that some of the rigging problems in the book can be chalked up to “captains choice” in that variations in real-world use could explain away discrepancies. Yet many of the issues in the book are simply illogical or unworkable, such as the Cutter toprope issue I wrote about in this thread way back in 2017. Glancing again at the book I see the illustration for the Schooners Toprope is ALSO flawed, and the brief blurb saying “two different solutions” suggests that the author was NOT using a single schooner model as an example. One of his odd “solutions “ is to run the Toprope through a block, circled in red, that performs no function whatsoever, the line in this example could not run. And as I mentioned back in 2017, topropes are not fixed parts of the rig, they are in use only when lowering or raising the topmast and so would never be spliced to anything, at either end.

Getting back to the topic I see some people are suggesting that some of the rigging problems in the book can be chalked up to “captains choice” in that variations in real-world use could explain away discrepancies. Yet many of the issues in the book are simply illogical or unworkable, such as the Cutter toprope issue I wrote about in this thread way back in 2017. Glancing again at the book I see the illustration for the Schooners Toprope is ALSO flawed, and the brief blurb saying “two different solutions” suggests that the author was NOT using a single schooner model as an example. One of his odd “solutions “ is to run the Toprope through a block, circled in red, that performs no function whatsoever, the line in this example could not run. And as I mentioned back in 2017, topropes are not fixed parts of the rig, they are in use only when lowering or raising the topmast and so would never be spliced to anything, at either end.

Good Morning Hamilton;
 
Be very wary of using a kit as a precedent, for the reasons you give. The paintings of Royal Caroline shows pin racks on the shrouds, and fairleads lashed to the shrouds above them. See below two extracts from paintings, although one has no fairleads, and the other has no racks on the mizen shrouds. I think that this can be ignored as artistic licence. The painter of both pictures, John Cleveley the Elder, knew the ship very well, having worked on painted scenes in her State Apartments during her fitting out, and being previously a shipwright at Deptford Dockyard where she was built.
 


One other interesting point: I have just finished transcribing the contract for 'Edgar', a 70 gun ship built by Francis Baylie in 1668-9. This specifically mentions fitting for rigging, being listed as 'Kevells, Ranges, Cleates, Turnpinns and whatever shalbe requisite for belaying the rigging'. Turnpinns I can only believe to refer to belaying pins. I have not seen this word before in all the other contracts I have transcribed, but I cannot think of it meaning anything else.
 
All the best,
 
Mark P

The attached rather crude sketch shows my setup and shows how the third turn is “sewed” around the first two in step 3.
 
Step 4 is tightly sewing a thinner thread around the grommet made in step 3. To serve it.
 
It’s easier to do than to describe.  Try it.

See update on progress of Rattlesnake Model Shipways by jazzdc. This represents 2 years of work. This is my first wooden ship. I have only finished one other ship which was the plastic Golden Hind. I have another post with the first year's work of the Rattlesnake. I appreciate the help I have received from other modelers of varying skill at this site. Seeing photos of other work has helped me tremendously and I hope these photos 
are useful to another modeler; particularly a novice like myself. 

In the context of a block in the age of wooden sailing ships the Strop is the rope that permenantly encircles the block and is the part that provides the attachment point where the block is positioned in the rig. It’s nearly always a Rope Grommet that has the block itself seized within it with its extra length formed into an eye. Often the strops were wormed served parceled and tarred to give them the greatest possible longevityand this made them black. But if you google “stropped block” today you get modern photos of rope stropped blocks which nearly all appear to be made for demonstration or decorative purposes and all of these are just the color of the rope, tarnish brown.