JerseyCity Frankie
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Captain Poison in 1:65 HMS Terror - OcCre
It just so happens that today (August 10th 2018) is the 204th anniversary of the Battle of Stonington, a battle in which HMS Terror participated. Stonington CT is directly adjacent to Mystic Ct, home of the superb Mystic Seaport Museum.
The sunken wreck of HMS Terror was recently located.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from mtaylor in Shoe Polish as Stain and Finish
I saw a fantastic plank on frame model at Joint Clubs in Connecticut one year, jet black whales which I thought were mahogany but the builder told me it was black shoe polish. Looked better than paint. Absolutely convincing, a deep measureless black with no brushmarks.
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in 74-gun ship by Gaetan Bordeleau - 1:24
USING A FLASH OR NOT?
Last week, a man, in an exhibition, was saying that he was always using a flash in manual mode, never in TTL (true the lens). Many years ago, it was true. Todays flash are much more performing.
Here is another common belief : a studio flash is much more performing than a flash on a camera. With the development of the electronic technology; you can buy a flash which fits on the camera hot shoe and it can perform in TTL as good as in manual. This week, I got a new on camera flash and I am very please by his performance.
On the last 2 photos, untouched, show the result of this morning test : The first one : with a flash in TTL mode, 100% automatic. The last one : no flash, neon lighting. The color are not as much appealing!
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to ronkamin in Brig Niagara by ronkamin - Model Shipways - 1/64
Started building some of the deck furniture. I plan on building each piece and then later in the build install them. In my last build I put the furniture on early and then had problems installing some of the other equipment on the deck.
Here is the companionway partially assembled.
And here it is completed. The camera brings out every little flaw, it looks pretty good in real life.
Here are shots as I build more of the furniture.
Ron
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from dashi in How to tie a rope to handrail
What was said above is true: Nobody is belaying running rigging on a railing. That is simply not realistic. Any running rigging, any line that must get coiled due to its length, is never going to be “tied in the beight” to anything. Running rigging needs to be adjustable, handled under tension, and for that you need a proper belay utilizing a pin or a cleat or some other disigned-for-the-pourpos fixture like a staghorn or nighthead. Riggers would never provide a bare railing as a way to belay the line, they would provide a way to belay properly. If you have running rigging that has to come to the deck near the rail, I believe you will need a pin cleat or other belaying aperatus on or near the rail. Or failing that a Lead Block on or near the rail to take the line elsewear to be properly belayed.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from dashi in How to tie a rope to handrail
Cleats maybe? More pins? The reason I’m not believing that running rigging is ever intended to be made off on a railing, a railing bare of any fitting to accommodate belaying, is because of the frequent adjusting the lines require. It’s POSSIBLE to make running rigging off on a railing, but it isn’t seamanlike or practical.
my advice is to try to find ship models on the internet that match the time period of your ship and see if you can spot how the rigging on the railing is made off. Or, just tie the rigging to the rail and not worry about it or if it’s acurate or practical! It’s your model and sometimes annoying details detract from the overall fun of building.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Canute in "Gunnery notes" from William Rivers (*1755, †1817)
I think it says the canvas was "kept wet" until they commenced firing. I think the canvas and hammocks would represent the most likely fire hazard as the guns were constantly spitting fire just under them from fore to aft along the length of the ship. If wetted down they would be less flammable and also denser and thus able to absorb more energy from incoming munitions. There are many recorded instances of the cannon fire starting fires that day.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from jud in How to tie a rope to handrail
What was said above is true: Nobody is belaying running rigging on a railing. That is simply not realistic. Any running rigging, any line that must get coiled due to its length, is never going to be “tied in the beight” to anything. Running rigging needs to be adjustable, handled under tension, and for that you need a proper belay utilizing a pin or a cleat or some other disigned-for-the-pourpos fixture like a staghorn or nighthead. Riggers would never provide a bare railing as a way to belay the line, they would provide a way to belay properly. If you have running rigging that has to come to the deck near the rail, I believe you will need a pin cleat or other belaying aperatus on or near the rail. Or failing that a Lead Block on or near the rail to take the line elsewear to be properly belayed.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Ferit in How to tie a rope to handrail
Cleats maybe? More pins? The reason I’m not believing that running rigging is ever intended to be made off on a railing, a railing bare of any fitting to accommodate belaying, is because of the frequent adjusting the lines require. It’s POSSIBLE to make running rigging off on a railing, but it isn’t seamanlike or practical.
my advice is to try to find ship models on the internet that match the time period of your ship and see if you can spot how the rigging on the railing is made off. Or, just tie the rigging to the rail and not worry about it or if it’s acurate or practical! It’s your model and sometimes annoying details detract from the overall fun of building.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Bob Cleek in I need a set of sails for my Billings Lila Dan...
This notion that you have to actually sew sails is false.in fact I usually advise against actual sewn seams due to the fact that the stitches are always grossly out of scale. If you think about the diameter of your running rigging-often represented by sewing thread on the model- then sail twine would have to be microscopic in order to be in scale with the running rigging.
White Glue works fine on fabric.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Ferit in How to tie a rope to handrail
What was said above is true: Nobody is belaying running rigging on a railing. That is simply not realistic. Any running rigging, any line that must get coiled due to its length, is never going to be “tied in the beight” to anything. Running rigging needs to be adjustable, handled under tension, and for that you need a proper belay utilizing a pin or a cleat or some other disigned-for-the-pourpos fixture like a staghorn or nighthead. Riggers would never provide a bare railing as a way to belay the line, they would provide a way to belay properly. If you have running rigging that has to come to the deck near the rail, I believe you will need a pin cleat or other belaying aperatus on or near the rail. Or failing that a Lead Block on or near the rail to take the line elsewear to be properly belayed.
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to G. Delacroix in NEW MONOGRAPH BY ANCRE
Hello,
This is quite true for the project, I am working on the monograph of a frigate of 24 "L’Égyptienne". The plans are almost finished, it remains the writing of the text.
Expected release early next year but not at Ancre Editions but under my name as usual since 2006.
Gérard Delacroix
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to jud in How to tie a rope to handrail
Don't know what your line of interest is used for, but it is unlikely that you want it to be tied with a knot or hitch that draws up tight and is slow and difficult to untie. Also sounds like there is plenty of line left over to make up into a coil, so any knot or hitch requiring the bitter end to be threaded through it's self would be a poor choice. There are several quick release knots available to use, I would probably just use the single overhand knot and tuck a doubled piece under the loop so I could grab the free end and jerk the knot apart, the coil could lay on the deck or you could lash it up with small stuff, every sailor has a knife handy to cut such lashings. Toggles are sometimes used as safety's on those knots or tuck a piece of line through the loop where a toggle would go.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Ferit in How to tie a rope to handrail
The knot that is smallest is the Overhand Knot.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Ferit in How to tie a rope to handrail
The Clove Hitch and the Round Turn And Two Half Hitches are more like what an actual sailor on a real ship would use but are more bulky on a model.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from tasmanian in How to tie a rope to handrail
The Clove Hitch and the Round Turn And Two Half Hitches are more like what an actual sailor on a real ship would use but are more bulky on a model.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from mtaylor in How to tie a rope to handrail
The knot that is smallest is the Overhand Knot.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from mtaylor in How to tie a rope to handrail
The Clove Hitch and the Round Turn And Two Half Hitches are more like what an actual sailor on a real ship would use but are more bulky on a model.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Jorge Diaz O in The 32-Gun Frigate Essex (Anatomy of the Ship)
I’ve got three formats of AOS books. Some are hardcover with Silver background on dust jacket and these solver dust jacket editions conceal a large format ship schematic on its inner jacket surface! So cool! Imagine my surprise then, when I purchased some other AOSbooks, these with white backgrounds on their dust jackets and these jackets had NO hidden drawings on their reverse side. Then I purchased a softcover HMS Victory AOS edition and these had gatefold covers, covers on front and back are folded in half and reveal larger hull drawings. So my advice is to try to get a silver background AOS book. My silver ones are from the year 2001 and, REMARKABLY, I could find no publication date on my two white background AOS books.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft
Breast backstays have always confused ship model builders and the reason why, I think, is that the most common way of diagraming the rigging is the side-view elevation drawing that depicts the ship as seen from the side. The disposition of the breast backstays assures that they are difficult or impossible to see since they are directly in line with the Mast on these drawings and the lines which represent them fall right over the lines in the drawing that represent the Mast. I’m certain that these very common pieces of standing rigging wind up being completely omitted from many rigging diagrams due to this issue- the people copying the diagrams don’t notice their presence and thus leave them out. From that point on, everyone examining these follow-on flawed drawings remain unaware of the omission.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from mtaylor in Lowering Yards
Tagalents when lowered to the Topmast Cap are easier to reach for the crew when they lay aloft to furl tgalentsails. The tgalent shrouds don’t need to be rattled with ratlines if the crew never need to assend higher than the Topmast Cap. The weight of the crew furling out on the yards need not be supported by the Tgallant Mast itself now either, the wheight rests on the beefier Topmast. With yards lowered there is very little gear on the tagalant Mast.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Roger Pellett in An unusual (to me) arrangement of hanging knees and rider knees on brigantine Leon
“Nothing too strong ever broke.”
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to Tom E in US Brig Niagara by Tom E - Model Shipways - 1:64 Scale
Evening,
Well, I started today about 4am, just to get the chores done and get back to the shipyard.
First quiet weekend in a while. Looking to take full advantage!
I started cutting the Main Mast
From what I can tell.
The Mast has an angle roughly 11 degrees.
Am I reading this right?
Is the angle measured on the protractor from the center line of the dowel?
Not the fore or aft edge of the dowel?
I've also been keeping in mind where the Shrouds are located, and 11 degrees looks good.
I made my Galley grating!
It was kinda fun.
The eggcrate method with the grating supplied is unique.
Odd looking stuff.
Maybe not for this build, but, I see an upgrade to Syren gratings in the future.
Primed, then a few coats of red.
I just had to throw in the below pics.
Its been a beautiful fall in New England.
Winter is next! I'm ready!
Tom E
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to Tom E in US Brig Niagara by Tom E - Model Shipways - 1:64 Scale
Evening,
There's a nip in the air, the trees are changing color.
There's a boiled dinner in the slow cooker.
It must be Fall!!!!!! My favorite time of year.
In my humble opinion, probably the best time of year to build.
Any who.....
I stained my deck!!!!!
This is a milestone for me on Niagara.
Never did I ever think I would get this far on this build.
Started with a pre-stain wood conditioner and a sanding.
Below is Golden Oak.
It looks better in person. Pics do it no justice.
There's some splash over of stain onto the paint.
I can easily clean that up.
There's no dip in my deck on the Port side. That's my shop lighting.
Pics do it no justice.
I'm reluctant to stain again.
I don't think I want it any darker.
Just realized that I started this build a year ago, September 2017.
I cant believe It's been a year!
I wont say I can see the end in sight, that would be simply foolish!
Thanks for watching!
Tom E
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to Dan Vadas in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Fixed . A tip for those who don't know - don't simply hit the "Quote" button when replying as it copies the ENTIRE post to the reply. If you want SOME of the original post in your reply - highlight the appropriate passage (Shift + Left or Right Arrow or drag with your Mouse) and click the little "Quote Selection" button that appears. BTW - you can Edit your OWN posts if needed.
Back to you Ed , Danny
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