texxn5

Brian - here is where the showing off starts (if you can call it that).  I started going down my list of items that need to be made/installed on and around the hull - my "honey do" list. There were some things that would make the deck more deck-like. The grates have been made for some time but I did not want to glue them down until the deck was installed.
 

 

 

 

 
Another item was to glue the chock rails at the bow. I started looking at this and realized that the hand rail is not lined up on center. The joint where the starboard and port rail meet was a bit to the port side of center. I wasn't about to tear that off and redo so I ended up sanding the center over to starboard a little. Sounds confusing, but I think you can see what I mean in the pic.
 

 
Had to do some appliance replacements yesterday including the dishwasher. This is the silverware basket from the old one. Might make a good tool holder. As you can see, you put put items in it from the top or the sides.
 

 
 
 
 

Okay, now you're just showing off!

Very weird - I seem to have lost a post. It was about making the fashion pieces for the stern and installing the deck.
 
The fashion pieces ended up being 2 parts, both made from a 1/4"x3/32" strip. There was a bit of chiseling and carving out to get a good fit - the reasoning behind the larger sized strip. I left some overhang at the transom. Don't know if this was done on Niagara but I have seen it on other ships.
 
 

 

 

 
I have also installed the deck. With all the shrinkage and swelling I have seen it go thru in the past months I decided it was time to make it permanent. It went in without any real issues, the only hard part was I had to hold it down while the glue set. No way to get clamps in there.
 

 

 

 
There's a few small gaps between the nibbing strake and waterway. I'm thinking the best way to fill those would be white glue with some of the red paint. I would prefer to use filler, but given that all the painting is finished and I would have to sand down the filler and risk scuffing the paint, I don't see that as an option.
 

Hi Wayne, sounds like a great project.  I highly recommend weebly.com as a easy to use, user friendly, website creator, name, host and all of the instructions for website creation.  It is a free site, and if you purchase your domain name from them, they will still host your website for free.  The only time you would pay for the hosting, is if you do an eCommerce site where you sell something.  My CW Morgan site is free and I did it all myself and I knew nothing when I started out.
 
John

Very nice framing Dave I think it's going to look very good when finished. Definitely a bold approach with good results.

Hi Wayne, sounds like a great project.  I highly recommend weebly.com as a easy to use, user friendly, website creator, name, host and all of the instructions for website creation.  It is a free site, and if you purchase your domain name from them, they will still host your website for free.  The only time you would pay for the hosting, is if you do an eCommerce site where you sell something.  My CW Morgan site is free and I did it all myself and I knew nothing when I started out.
 
John

Thanks Darrell, I'm glad they could be of assistance.  That's why I posted them, to benefit anyone building the model.
John

Hi Wayne, sounds like a great project.  I highly recommend weebly.com as a easy to use, user friendly, website creator, name, host and all of the instructions for website creation.  It is a free site, and if you purchase your domain name from them, they will still host your website for free.  The only time you would pay for the hosting, is if you do an eCommerce site where you sell something.  My CW Morgan site is free and I did it all myself and I knew nothing when I started out.
 
John

Hi Wayne, sounds like a great project.  I highly recommend weebly.com as a easy to use, user friendly, website creator, name, host and all of the instructions for website creation.  It is a free site, and if you purchase your domain name from them, they will still host your website for free.  The only time you would pay for the hosting, is if you do an eCommerce site where you sell something.  My CW Morgan site is free and I did it all myself and I knew nothing when I started out.
 
John

Looks like the overall size wold be about the size of a mine??????

Very unique Chuck. I see what you mean about the waste especially with pear or boxwood. A thought came to me though, if one was to order the pear or boxwood kit could we then send the scraps back to you and have some nice blocks made    

I use the DRO on both my Sherline lathe and mill and wouldn't be without them. They make life a LOT easier.
 
Here are some pics of a stand that I made for mine. I have a base screwed to each baseboard, so it's only a matter of unplugging the leads and loosening one screw to go from one machine to the other. It takes about 40 seconds to change from the lathe to the mill.
 

 

 

 

 

 

  Danny

Hello Ohio, welcome back to the Niagara Club.  Good job repairing damage - can't tell.  Should you need any photos of the Niagara in Erie, I have an entire page with 3-400 pictures of the Niagara on my website in the Gallery Section:  US Brig Niagara.  Check it out if you need pictures - they are taken from a modelers "eye" and mostly the rigging and deck structures.  This will probably be my next build if I should chose to build another one.  Here's the link:  http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com
 
I'll be following along
 
John

Here are some better pictures

Hello Ohio, welcome back to the Niagara Club.  Good job repairing damage - can't tell.  Should you need any photos of the Niagara in Erie, I have an entire page with 3-400 pictures of the Niagara on my website in the Gallery Section:  US Brig Niagara.  Check it out if you need pictures - they are taken from a modelers "eye" and mostly the rigging and deck structures.  This will probably be my next build if I should chose to build another one.  Here's the link:  http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com
 
I'll be following along
 
John

My opinion is that if you aren't turning a 3" D carbon steel stock, then you should have no power problems with the Sherline, just don't get in too big a hurry - you can stop any lathe doing that.  Go for it - like someone said earlier - you deserve it....
John

My opinion is that if you aren't turning a 3" D carbon steel stock, then you should have no power problems with the Sherline, just don't get in too big a hurry - you can stop any lathe doing that.  Go for it - like someone said earlier - you deserve it....
John

Ahoy Mates
 
Just to start being 63 when I started out in a machine shop bak when I was only 12 there was only the lead screw dial that was on it and the next step was mounting a direct reading indicator to show the movement of either the carriage or tool rest. You had to deal with lead screw backlash and it took a lot of skill and use to use them correctly and get things right.
 
Next was when I was 17 and the shop had travel dials on the Bridgeport mill table and cross feed. They were better than the dial on the lead screws,they showed the table travel. But they could slip and if you had to be very accurate,you still had to set up direct indicators on the X and Y axis to also show any crabing of the machines tables when moved,or to show movement when they had to stay still. Still al lot depended on the skill of the toolmaker  or machinist .
 
Then DRO's first generation came out. they were better than what had been used before,but the resolution was only .001 total because they used a glass scale with lines etched into the glass. The reader owuld detect the bar and the counters would add up the total number of lines crossed. At this stage they used frequency counters that had been around since the 1940's and Nixe tubes for the numbered lights to show how far you had traveled. You could have a total of .001 error since you could be just up to the next line going both ways without the numbers changing-thus the error of distance. I still had to use a direct reading indicator to know where I was really at.
 
Then they went solid state and now use magnetic encoded bars.
 
They have come a long way,and those of you hwo have only used their mills for hobby work,you really can not know the preasure that we went thru before the DRO's came about to know where your mill table was in relation to you mill cutter of boring head. I have not said anything about the spinel that your tool is in. These also deflect and move around either from being lose in the quill of machine head from use,and the bearings in your spindle also make up a large part of being accurate in holding the cutting tool on center and not deflecting when cutting forces are applied.
 
Just gong down memory lane here. Less and less guys around who had to machine before DRO's were around. I also used tooling buttons,which you set suing height gauges and indicators. You would set these round cylinders on the part you wanted to drill or bore a hole in the exact center of the hole. Then set up the part in the mill or lathe. Indicate the button until it was in the center of the spindle where your toll was. Set up direct reading indicators on all moving parts of the table if you were in a mill. Then remove the tooling button and drill and bore your hole in this place. And hope that it did not move,and if so that your indicators would allow you to move it back on the center you wanted.
 
 
Are there any guys out there who know what I am talking about with tooling buttons? I still have about 100 of them in different sizes-home made ones and also Starrette made ones.And one's over 100 years old that I got from my Dad.
 
Keith

I've seen some of this Keith, back in the 70's when I worked for a defense contractor.  All prototypes were done manually and then if the parts were successful, the data was taken, drawings reworked and offset tables (I think that's what they called them) were punched into tape and fed to the big Cincy Millicron milling machines for the production run.  CAD was a gleam but many companies were doing in-house things on mainframes to get things to the machines.   The CNC of today and all the digital measuring equipment was only a gleam in the machinist's eye back then or maybe a dream.
 
I've also done some milling the old way with engines as most auto machine shops used old manual equipment.  Lots of fun and I've probably forgot more than I want to admit as it was (to me at least) a long time ago.  

I have turned brass, aluminium and mild steel on mine with absolutely no trouble. It has all the power you need. The DRO is the way to go. I have one box and the kits for my mill and lathe and love it. Very easy to use and accurate.

As always - depends on what your making. I have DRO on my Sherline. The biggest downside is cords running everywhere. Also be aware (as I was not) if you like the bigger wheels they are not available with DRO. The DRO wheels have the sensors in the housing and cannot be replaced.
 
I'm just turning spars and the like, so I probably could get by just fine without DRO.

My opinion is that if you aren't turning a 3" D carbon steel stock, then you should have no power problems with the Sherline, just don't get in too big a hurry - you can stop any lathe doing that.  Go for it - like someone said earlier - you deserve it....
John

I agree with Mark, I have used a DRO on both the Sherline Lathe and the Mill.  Much easier than having to stop and use calipers to check.  I found it to be extremely accurate and easy to use.

My opinion is that if you aren't turning a 3" D carbon steel stock, then you should have no power problems with the Sherline, just don't get in too big a hurry - you can stop any lathe doing that.  Go for it - like someone said earlier - you deserve it....
John

Hi Mike, sorry to hear about your electronics and electric.  After the 7" 2 weeks ago I put the Ferrari up on 4 concrete 4" concrete blocks to keep water from getting in it.  It got within 1/2" last time.  Lake level has dropped 18" today so it's back below the bulkheads.  We still have 2' to go yet.  Niagara is looking good.
John