hi Marsalv,

excellent framing, Chapeau! But what are the tiny black squares (holes?) for which appear between the frame ends and the setting grooves of the keel? 

Joachim

Hello Valeriy,

I recall having looked closely to your electro-forming excursus in your Varyag build log. Apparently in missed the other topic. Thank you very much for your lead.

Joachim

On 6/3/2024 at 6:38 PM, Valeriy V said:

Саша ,  Gary , Roel, Ricr  and that's all, thank you for your kind words and attention to my topic!   

 

  The photo shows a small number of nickel-plated parts.

Hey Valeriy,

super good look of the items. Especially the rudder being a quite massive part, looks very convincing. Could you achieve these results with your "hobby equipent" or did you use industrial facilities?  If achievable by hobby equipment, would you be willing to share your production secrets of nickel plating with us and describe the process?

I'm always keen on learning from masters.

best greetings

Joachim

Hello Mark,

thank you very much. I now understand the the inventory in some details much better avoiding any  ambiguiance in the block matter. The pic helps too.

I haven't been aware of the Kite's rigging warrant. I guess it can be found via NMM's homepage.

Have a nice weekend

Joachim

Hello Mark,

thank you very much for your detailed answer, very helpful for me! So, there is no general difference between a Quarter block and a QuarterED block ?

All the best

Joachim

Gentlemen,

thanks for your efforts so far. I've transduced that original Sherbourne Inventory into a xls-sheet showing in the end all measurements in metric in my preferred scale 1:50.

Yet there still remains my need for illustrations or descriptions of a quartered block as mentioned in the inventory.

Best regards

Joachim

Sherbourne 1763 Mast Rahen Rigging Blocks.xlsx

Ferrus Manus = Ironhand,

thanks for your action towards Isaiah, now I understand. Hopefully he can shed some light onto the matter. Thanks again.

greetings

Joachim

Ferrus Manus,

thanks a lot for your answer. Alas, I don't seem to be a good checker as I have not found any enlightening answers to my block questions under Isaiah's content. He is working on Sherbourne but now busy with planking.

best regards

Joachim

Thukydides,

many thanks for your input, whioch gave me some ideas of what the blocks might look like. I'll keep on searching for quartered block to know for sure. That's part of the fascination of our hobby, that there always pops up a new topic to looking closer into.

I'll post the results, if any.

Best regards

Joachim

Help needed: I am about to start making blocks for my af Chapman English Cutter and due to the lack of original block dimensions given for this special cutter I make use of the rigging list for Sherbourne 1763 (same period): There I find some blocks noted which are absolutely unknown to me so far:

block, single, QUARTERED?? and 

block, single, ironbound, iron, PINED?? and

block, double, brass, COAKED??

For the  2 latter ones I assume the sheave is either Iron or Brass and coaked seems to be brass rods inserted in the sheave to act like a ball bearing in connection with the brass sheave.

If someone has got a description and favourably some drawings of pics, these ar most welcome.

Thanks in advance for your expert help.

Joachim

Hello Ralf,

welcome to the crew of MSW.

I live in the northern Part of Rhineland-Palatinate (Trans-Rhenum) and love to be in the area from Neustadt to Herxheim.

Best Greetings and "Alla Gut"

Joachim

Micha,

best wishes to you. Not knowing what exactly is your severe shoulder problem I can say from my own experience that surgery might not be the best solution. My experience is that nowadays the medical system goes to surgery immediately denying any alternative "conservative" treatment by e.g. physiotherapy. In my case it took some time but my injured left shoulder performs now much better after that therapy than my right one in "natural" status. 

Of course I'm not a doctor knowitall. Maybe it's better to think twice before surgery., no offence meant!

In any case, good luck.

greetings

Joachim

Hi Ron,

I've only just now stumbled upon your build log; to express my admiration in words:  excellent skills, super photos, textual explanations to the very point.

I'm amazed and I'll follow this build from today on  Thank you ever so much.

Greetings

Joachim

you achieved very good results although working on some wood parts (judging from the pics) seem to be quite of poor quality (like cigar box soft wood) must have been very difficult...... A nice boat!

greetings

Joachim

Hello Thukydides,

thanks for your metriculous work; the sizes given for the breechings in your summarizing table are given in inches of circumference, aren't they?

greetings

Joachim

Micha,

you might have a look here on tons of figurines ( for Vikings you need to adapt to style): https://www.ebay.de/str/3drifter

3D-printed figurines on printing supports, unpainted

greetings

Joachim

Mirabelle,

thnaks for the pics. Interesting combination of anchor gears. I apologize for not having considered that as an expert you did your thorough study of all details of the vessel well before the actual build....kudos again. ;-))

Greeting

Joachim

Hey MIrabelle,

very nice work on the ship and good looking smushroom anchor. In case you show (part of) the anchor chain, should it have stud links though?

best regards and enjoy a sunny weekend in Glinde

Joachim

Hello George,

I cannot contribute to your question of how the bowsprit was fitted to the stem resp. deck, but the pic here shows the dimensions of the bowsprit and  other spars of the Bermuda sloop on plan LVII of af Chapman`s Architectura Navalis Mercatoria of 1763.

The scale is given in Swedish, English and French feet. 

Maybe you are able to find the complete illustrated build log of a Bermuda sloop issued in Ships in Scale, if I remember right. Good luck

Greetings

I envy you your ample preesentation space for your superb models and the new workshop accommodating all your machines and tooling in one space and on the same level.

Congratualations!

salutazioni cordiali

Joachim

Christiano,

I didn't mean to infringe on your artistic freedom in any way...of course follow your ideas! You're the master of your own ship..

Greetings

Joachim

Hello Cristiano,

I refer to Allyaned's question, whether the hardware on hulls such as rudder pintles horseshoe brackets etc. were painted with white stuff as the hull was.

Imho, these metal parts were always installed before the hull was payed with some stuff and nobody took the trouble of e.g. covering the metal parts or working meticulously not to touch the original colour of the parts or applying a layer of black on them later. These ships were fighting ships and nobody would waste time and effort in achieving "showlike" condition on parts below the water line..

Salutazioni

Joachim

Hello David,

I have an ongoing POB scratch building project of the af Chapman English cutter based on af Chapman's plan.

There I first cut the bulkheads without any bevel and placed then on their individual position according to plan with one face exactly meeting the line. From the 0 bulkhead the thickness of each bulkhead points forward to the bow resp. backwards to the stem. It is important to colour the true edge of each bulkhead and keep it untouched while sanding down to smooth the hull.

Greetings

Joachim

Hello SilversaxMan,

to keep brass shiny (after polishing and degreasing) apply ZAPON-lacquer either by spraying or dipping. It is quite thin fluid and so does not build up too heavily.

Have a look at Wikipedia: 

Zaponlack

Sorry, no translation available.

greetings and a happy year 2024 to you

Joachim

Hi Valeriy,

may  only fhe sound of popping champagne accompany your days in 2024!

All the best to you.

Joachim