cotrecerf

52 minutes ago, Cathead said:

Mark, good idea, but it's already reversed from the symbol in question (whose arms bend to the right, while mine bend to the left), but it still strikes both of us as resonant. However, we also both feel that (a) flaring the ends, (b) using colored pencils to mute the colors, and (c) using multiple designs tones down the resemblance enough. 

Hello Cathead,

the shield version shown presently with its arms  going to the left is definitely NOT Nazi but amongst in many cultures a Scandinavian lucky (sun) sign for centuries and as it was for instance used by Finland's Armed Forces prior and during WW 2. Flipping the sign (mirroring) would bring the arms to the right and then it is DEFINITELY a Nazi symbol. So keep it as it is, so there is no ambiguity.

Allan,

thank you very much for your efforts in clarifying the matter for (not only) me. My issue of Falconers Dictionary is a reprint of "a new edition, corrected, printed for T. Cadell 1780" which I will search for finding the relevant passages you mention and will try to look up the 1765 ordnance store regulation.

And yes, being a traditionalist when it comes to the original form of words, i also stick to the proper word for that splice.

Great help of yours.

cotrecerf

Allan,

P.S.

I will check Falconer's Marine Dictionary (1780) for relevant details.

cotrecerf

Allan,

as you are I am of the opinion that the Oxford Companion's entry must be based on a reliable contemporary source. I guess they would not list a very exotic and rare method. I have checked  Lavery's arming and fitting but could not find a matching description. I have no access to Caruana's book, so hopefully you will find something there.

cotrecerf

Thanks all,

I got it now1

Allan,

thanks for the details. I interpret the wording in the Oxford Companion as follows:

" a thimble stropped to the cascabel" implies that that a separate thimble was bound by a piece of rope lengthwise onto the groove between the knob and the breech of the cannon.  As the Blomefield pattern had the breeching ring as an integral part of the cast, I assume that the thimble solution was in use before 1787. 

I am scratch building the English cutter presented in af Chapman's drawings having 3-pdr guns at 1:50 scale and warping or c*nt seizing the breeching rope seems to look too clumsy. While searching for an feasible and elegant approach I happened to stumble into the entry in the Oxford companion. 

Hello Thomasz,

I just experienced the same. Strange!?

Hi Bob,

thanks very much. It's so embarrassing for me: I "studied" the first illustration several times recently, alas, apparently not thoroughly enough, as I  did not identify the separate thimble but took it as a cast thimble.

greetings

Hello Piotrek,

my question has been answered now by your photos. Thanks!

Your rigging work is very impressive.

Greetings

Joachim

I’ve got a question to connoisseurs:

In "The Oxford Companion to Ships and The Sea" I understand that the rope on cannons was also led by a THIMBLE STROPPED to the cascable. So far, I have only known about a rope spliced around the of the pommel or the rope warped once around the Pommel. These ways of attaching the breeching rope to the cannon itself I have seen on many models so depicted. I imagine the "thimble solution" as a precursor to the later cast handles, similar to the carronade irons. Has anyone ever seen the "thimble solution" presented on a ship model and who knows more about it? I haven't found any other clues on the Internet so far.

Greetings Joachim
 

Hi Piotrek,

your rigging looks so much like the real thing! Wow, I'm amazed, especially the colour choice of the ropes and the very fine seizings please my eyes!

What is your method for seizing?

Greetings 

Joachim

Piotrek,

many thanks for naming BRADIM and showing your minute soldering method.

greetings

Joachim

incredibly good! Happy to see your work in perfection again. 

best regards

Hello Dali,

once more: your work is fantastic!  What ready-made product or which chemicals do you use for blackening the metal parts, it seems to work well on solderered spots? Would you mind describing you process?

best regards

Joachim

Hi All,

I have just got the full set of mini chisels I ordered with Mihail Kisanov in Ukraine about a month ago. We communicated by email using

translators. There was some delay with the shipment in Ukraine due to festive season ; he helped a lot in tracking with Russian Post.

Mihail started the manufacture immediately on receipt of the total order value which I payed by paypal.

The tools are very nicely made, good haptic and are super sharp. I like the pear wood of the handles very much, absolutely smooth surface.

The set comes in a wooden box for safe storage.

Though at a price of 346 Euros not cheap I think they are absolutely worth the money.

Greetings

cotrecerf

Hello Dali,

my question about the final placing of the hull on the final stand was pertaining to the handling of the hull with all it's delicate inner and outer details and their potential damaging whilst  mounting to the final display stand. I am pondering this question with my own model presently before I will condinue with all deck items, cannon mounting etc. in order to avoid any damaging.

best regards

cotrecerf

Hello Dali,

very ingenious manufacturing and a superb model. Thanks for your examples for me to follow. 

With the hull almost completed, do you also  build the masting and rigging, or do you leave it as a hull only build?

When and how will you mount the hull on the final display stand? 

best regards

cotrecerf

I was thinking of a cipher in a sort of shorthand system, too...

regards

Good evening Mark,

Quote: I would be very interested in knowing your source for the rigging data table. I have not seen this before. Can you me know, please, if it's not a secret. -Unquote

The source is definetely not a secret. I copied the jpg of the rigging data table on 08.01.2020 but I have not been able to retrace the source so far, as my net browser history is cleared regularly. My nearest guess would be the NMM UK, but I have not managed to trace it there today. Hopefully I will find a clue on my second PC.

Sorry that I cannot be of any service right now.

best regards

cotrecerf

Hello popeye2sea,

Thanks for your suggestion. There are some clearly legible "ones" in the chart. (green circles).

So I think there must be another interpretation for the fishhook; zeros are clearly discernible, too.

Please experts, give it a further go.

thanks in advance

Dear Fellows,

I have difficulty to interpret the "fish hook-number" written by hand in many numbers of the inventory attached. I 'd appreciate your help to proceed my build of the af Chapman cutter.

best regards

 cotrecerf

Valery, 

thank very much for your good wishes! I wish you a Happy New Year, too!

cotrecerf

Your work is so inspiring, though can hardly be acheived by a part-time hobbyist! Thanks for your technical enlightenment.

Such an impressive craftmanship! Bravissimo!

cotrecerf

Such an impressive craftmanship! Bravissimo!

cotrecerf