GrandpaPhil
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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil
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Welcome!
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LOL! To be honest, I had to replace one hatchway, and I discovered I had an extra rudder piece. The model is mostly assembled now. It is good and solid. I admit that I used a couple of Honeycomb boxes and a couple of Little Debbie boxes to cut my pieces from, lol. I am going to pause to seal and paint what I have to simplify matters later. Then, I’ll put the rest of the sides on and plank them. My last fittings are what look like the equivalent of fife rails.
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For the Beginner Modeler
GrandpaPhil replied to kgstakes's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have two Dremels and a scroll saw. I’ve never used them for a model. I hand cut all wood parts with a coping saw and/or a razor saw. Most other shaping is done with a scalpel. I do occasionally use an ordinary household drill for drilling mast holes, or holes for mounting points on models. -
I typically use the Army Painter brand metallics when I use metallics, otherwise I just use the faux metallic painting methods (a lot of variable dry brushing). The faux metallic method is the most realistic. Vallejo paint is better than Army Painter, but the Army Painter brand is pretty good.
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All parts are cut out and laminated together now: The main hull is test fitted together. I made two planking patterns for the sides, which are supposed to have 4mm x .5mm planks edge bent to follow the curvature of the sides. Thin card does not edge bend well, so I am going to cover the backs of those pieces in wood grain contact paper and draw out the individual planks and cut them out in shape. The decks are not intended to be planked, if you bought this as a kit. I am going to plank them with wood grain contact paper and then glue the decks into place when I glue the bulkheads together. Then, after that dries, I’ll paint the visible areas inside, black. Then I can finish assembling everything, plank the upper bulwarks, bow and stern and then seal and paint.
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I used wargaming faux metallic painting techniques for my bronze cannon on the Revenge. I base coated black, then built up successively lighter shades of brown, before finishing with a highlight coat. If you don’t feel comfortable using those techniques, metallic bronze drybrushed onto a base coat of black yields pretty good results as well. Drybrushing the metallic bronze color onto black is how I painted the armor on that elephant and rider. That was 1/32 (54mm) scale for reference.
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All initial test fits are going well: All parts still need trimmed and nothing is glued yet. All part thicknesses are correct this time.
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I use a THIN layer of monte mart PVA on my parts for layering up and then put them between sheets of glass to dry to minimize curling. As you can see, you can barely see the glue. It adheres well and ends up with only minimal curling, if any, which can then be worked out prior to installation. That’s a Hobeycomb cereal box.
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All parts are rough cut: Next up is to final trim them and laminate them in order, starting with the keel plate, so I can commence with assembly. This looks like a lot, but it’s really not.
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Ab, Hopefully you are feeling better! Nicely done on the wrecked ship!
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Merry Christmas, Chris!
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One pile o’ parts: I’m just going to cut all of the parts for this one out at once. Then I’ll laminate them together, and begin assembly.
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Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, OC!
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I use whatever I find. Posterboard works well for me The best quality card that I’ve found was actually those giant 2’ by 3’ Valentine cards that people buy for gag gifts. I’m using a cereal box and a couple snack cake boxes for my newest build.
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And now for something completely different! I usually like warships. However, this is an unusual subject that looks like a fairly quick and easy build. The Sampang/Sampan is a traditional boat originally of Chinese origin that is still utilized throughout Asia. I got an Amati Sampang kit off EBay that only had the rigging supplies and the plans. I paid $7.99 for it with free shipping. I decided to build it in card, because I like building in card. I am making it out of a couple of Honeycomb boxes which are about .6mm thick, and a couple of Little Debbie boxes which are .5 mm thick. Most of the pieces are 3mm thick so I copied the plans 5 times. I think there are under a hundred pieces to the entire model. This will be a fun quick build! Here is the start:
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The interior bulwarks for the main and quarter decks are made, painted and drying in place. They still need trimmed into place and some touch ups will need to be applied. I am not as precise as the laser cutters these parts were designed for. I have an approximately 2.5 mm (0.3%) error built into the model at this point. This introduces some gaps in some areas and pieces that needed reduced in other areas. But, I can live with that. I’ll take some side on shots later, after everything dries.
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Very nicely done!
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My condolences about your dad. Titanic is looking amazing!
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