Jump to content

GrandpaPhil

NRG Member
  • Posts

    4,852
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. Another pile O’ parts: These are the rest of the upper deck pieces and stern castle pieces, plus stag horns and cleats. Yes, I am making the cleats out of popsicle sticks. The popsicle sticks (aka craft sticks) are higher density wood than basswood. They actually work quite well for that. They’ll be drilled out for pins before being shaped to prevent splitting. I’m kind of worried about making the stag horns from card, but once sealed they should be fine.
  2. The best bet is to look in the kit if it is local to make the best determination about the condition of the materials in the kit. Bounty has a bluff bow (a lot of curvature) so be sure to check on the condition of the planking, unless you are planning on replacing the planking anyway. Also, check for warping in the sheet wood, although that can be corrected.
  3. The port side is second planked up to the waist. The next step is to trim all planking. Then gaps need filled, planking needs smoothed out and everything will get sealed prior to painting the final yellow ochre band across the gunports. The rest of the ship will have the geometric patterns that galleons of that time period were known for. I’m starting to appreciate how large of a project this model is going to be. I’ll have to find a place to put it when I’m done with it. Quick lesson learned: I much prefer vertical planking and then applying the wood grain, it works much better than this has. The only drawback is that one must account for the 1mm difference in thickness on the planking when tracing bulkheads.
  4. I built the crocodile version of this kit a number of years ago. It built up very nicely.
  5. Thank you very much! The trick with card is to preshape everything before gluing. The card will retain its shape. For round pieces that need rolled or to take a sharp curve, I run it over the edge of my desk to break down the fibers, kind of like using scissors to curl ribbon. This model is POB. I just traced the parts from the plans, copied them a number of times, to layer them up, and pretty much just treated this like a wood model. I am using this one to try out new techniques and see if I can finish it. The hard part for me has always been getting a hull. But, I have that now, so there should not be any overwhelming difficulties remaining.
  6. The starboard side is second planked up to the waist now: The quarters get planked a little later.
  7. Schreiber-Bogen makes a card kit of the Great Eastern in 1/200 scale. It retails at Fentens Paper Models for about 40 €. https://www.papermodel.com/272449-great-eastern.html Card kits can make great sources of plans and are infinitely scalable. I have bought many of them over the last couple of years for that reason.
  8. The second planking continues: Especially considering that this was very much an impulse build, this model is coming along quite nicely. I am thoroughly enjoying it.
  9. Thank you very much! They are definitely something different to make! My wife was very pleased with them!
  10. My Admiral’s last house for Christmas is done: It’s game on for the Revenge next time I work on my models!
  11. I use generic craft paint brushes for larger surfaces, like hulls, and dry brushing. I use Qualrite Miniature Fine Detail brushes for detail work and miniatures.
  12. Where is the model located? I ask because there may be someone relatively local to you or a model ship club in your area. I am not interested in another project myself, but there may be someone in your area that is.
×
×
  • Create New...