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Dowmer

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Camas Washington
  • Interests
    Scale modeling. Particularly RC scale aircraft and 18th century ships of sail

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  1. If you need ideas on how to do a flag that is light and drapes naturally, Chuck Passaro on this site does a nice tutorial on how he does his flags and they look very realistic. It might be in his Cheerful cutter build. I followed his method for the small flag on my longboat. Link is in my signature. It turned out pretty well.
  2. Nice work Phil. You know the old saying, a scale model is never truly finished, you only stop adding details. The working gear (Anchors, foot ropes etc) is a good idea if you want to add that. I’d also suggest a flag and corresponding halliards too if you wish. btw, I know you are in Corvallis, did you ever make it over to the OSU ROTC building there? There is a ship model there.
  3. I like Murphy’s Jest but I think giving it a name is appropriate. As long as you have with it a note as a representative 1800’s revenue cutter somewhere so when someone finds it in like 100 - 200 years from now they know. Lol.
  4. Yes Phil, I second that. The sails look incredible. Appearance, color shape etc. definitely worth the fuss. Beautiful work.
  5. Looking real nice Phil. It’s really coming together. You should be very proud. Question, shouldn’t the truss slings be served?
  6. Johann, the source material you posted from Atlas du Génie Maritime shows the hole for the stay opposite where you have it. I thought perhaps that was an error since the hole close to the edge would be fragile and prone to breakage. However I thought perhaps the stay hole is actually on the far edge like you have it but the angle for the sheaves are opposite direction because the bowline lines cross and enter at a different angle? So the example from Atlas du Génie Maritime, the aft side is actually the other side. Thoughts?
  7. Alan, we all make frustrating mistakes. It’s how we learn and get better at our craft. I’m sure the re-work will be exceptional in the 2.0 version. btw, for what it’s worth, in the picture with the cannon poking through the port. Don’t forget the deck thickness as well will add to the height of the gun on the deck, if you want the gun centered in the port.
  8. Truly beautiful workmanship Albert. What ships are they?
  9. Albert, by the looks of the picture above of your shop, in the background there are several large ships “in frame”. It appears that you enjoy the framing process. Working with wood can be very therapeutic and enjoyable.
  10. Nice work on drilling those tiny holes Ron. Not an easy feat. For the oiled cloth to get something close to scale, you may consider the method of using Silkspan for sails that Lauria explains. I think you paint over the silkspan to give it the correct opaqueness but still is very thin and scale like. Just a thought. But I suppose you have it figured out by now. I’ll intently keep watching. Love the detailed build 👍
  11. Looking great Ron. Just curious, what type of wood you are using for the spars. It seems to hold edges very nicely and color is good too.
  12. Johann, marvelous and fantastic work as usual. I’ve been following this build for years. One question I have is with your rigging or in this case the lashings pulling the Jack stays together, how do you tie off the bitter end (loose end). I see you eye spliced one end to the thimble with a simple eye spliced, but the other end after passing through the thimbles how do you secure the other end. Same with many of your other rope work. It is so clean and I never see the other end of the rope how it is finished. Thank you and your build would make an incredible practicum as a book.
  13. Nicely done Phil. Your assumptions seem to be well founded and they make very handsome work of the tops and spars. I’ve been enjoying your build as you work through the details. cheers
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