Richmond

Apologies if this was mentioned before but didn't Buster Keaton make a movie about the General?

Dennis - maybe we have stumbled across a very small part of one particular mountain which in itself only forms a small part of a large mountain range!

Great work Dan

I purchased the blocks, sails and masts for the Wolf. I wouldn't want to tackle the card blocks that come with the kit. The masts not being kit supplied are a must unless you are able to make your own. The sails are a personal choice. Others on the site may choose the kit sails or make their own. There is a YouTube upload I did on the blocks if you refer to my Wolf build.

The metallic finish is amazing - I had heard great things about the Xtreme Metals. I note you use Tamiya black as a 'primer' - rather than the Xtreme Metals primer - is there a reason for that.

Great stuff

Apologies if I have posted in the wrong section https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw I thought this was really neat - the only observation was shouldn't there be a lamp and diffuser at the top of the light box?

Nice review

This may be of interest to some http://www.finescale.com/~/media/import/files/pdf/d/9/f/quickeasyweathering.pdf

Looks like you were ripped off

Wow 2 weeks, how many hours are you modelling per day?

More photos

Well onto progress I have the hull painted other then for a thin white stripe within the black painted section between the scuppers which I am not sure how to tackle I have made a coupe of stuff ups Firstly when marking the water line the model toppled over and left some pencil marks on the red hull which I am not sure how to remove without damaging the paintwork and then when admiring my handy work the model slipped out of my hands and crashed to the tiled floor (the downside of living in the tropics) - the rudder broke off and some hull paint work was damaged. Secondly from reading a build log via Scalemates whereby the modeler cut out the windows - I decided to do the same and made complete stuff up - I first drilled out the windows and then found I never had a file small enough to remove the rest of the plastic. So now I had irreparable damage to the cabins as well as the rudder and thus decided to order a copy. The cost of the model is around AUD 35.00 so no big deal. Second time around I masked off the windows and painted them black - they look OK from afar but no so great in close up! but they will have to do. Also for some reason the masking tape left some residue which is pretty rare for Tamiya tape so I will have to clean this up. I drilled out the portholes and will fill the voids with Micro Crystal Clear to create glazing. I have now painted the vast majority of other parts ready for assembly. I am having trouble with certain colours with sticking to the plastic - probably my fault for having not primed the parts first. However it is not clear to me why some colours have trouble sticking and others do not.

This was a Christmas gift from our cleaners daughter. Its a pretty old model, from what I can see it originally dates back to 1970 and has had numerous iterations since then including a Russian spy trawler! The model shown is a re box dated 2015. There are 4 sprues some decals and some twine for the rigging and that's it! The model itself is pretty low quality and does not compare to that found in more recent models. Lots of flash, seam lines and injector pin marks. The parts are limited, for example ladders are molded to the cabins where a separate ladder could have been provided, no window /porthole openings etc. The other downside with Revell is they do not export their acrylics to Australia - I have tried my best to match up with Tamiya with limitations. I hope to knock this over in a few weeks

John A good website for looking at different plastic models before you buy is scalemates.com, it has places to buy and what other have done with it https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-61099-fairey-swordfish-mkii--102642 Never the easiest site to navigate however

I like to purchase the rattle cans and decant into the large Tamiya 81042 50ml spare paint jars. They come in packs of 6 and cost around 8 AUD from Hobby Link - of course you have PP on top of this. There are some good videos on Youtube on how to decant the rattle cans. It is especially useful where you have large surface areas such as hulls to paint. Do you have any links to tips on dry brushing? Do you have any links on the Tamiya and Mr Colour washes (I had never heard of them) - I would assume these differ markedly from the Flory washes? Nice work by the way.

Nice review James - was looking at this and the thinnerline - downside of the thinnerline you have to order from Canada whereas we can get Dspiae products within Australia (BNA) which helps with the buying the consumables. The upside of the thinnerline seemed to be the centre finder. However Dspiae seem to have a filled that void now.

That was embarrassing ! Thanks James

James Very good, have been holding out on the PE bender, I'm glad I waited. Any plans in the future for you to review the Dspiae circle cutter (including the centre finder) I am currently stuck on choosing between the Dspiae or the Shadow thinnerline.

You would want to hope your site doesn't morph into another photobucket.

https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=Kits&q=shinden&fkCOMPNAME[]="Zoukei-Mura"&fkTYPENAME[]="Full kits" Not always the easiest site to navigate but it may assist you with your query.

I think you are underselling yourself, you have done a great job with the paint. May I ask, is there any reason why you post your photographs through another host and not directly to the site?

Wonderful

I think you will find GSI Creos is the umbrella, with the Mr Colour, Hobby, Aqueous, Metal, Paint, Tool and so on, underneath that pretty large 'Mr' prefix umbrella. I also note you get bigger bottles in the US , ours Tamiya and Mr jars are limited to 10ml, which is pretty small.

Yes, I saw your bargain buy a few months back, had a search unfortunately it doesn't seem to be available in Australia. I use the H&S AL Evolution - however I would love to have a good quality backup like you. The Mr Colour Leveling Thinner is, as far as I am aware, compatible with the Tamiya paints (as well as the Mr Colour of course) - I tend not to use the Tamiya X20A at all. I have never heard of the term Acrysion - or maybe this is just a US term - we have the Mr Colour range in Australia (via BNA) which are solvent based acrylics.