Richmond

I received a response from Cornwall today and they have emailed me a pdf of the missing pages and are advise me that they are still working on the missing blocks. I wish to go on record that I apologise for the hastiness of my previous post, which I am going to delete, and I am extremely grateful to the sales team at Cornwall for resolving this matter. Fingersticker - Apologies this sort of puts your last post out of context. RICHMOND

I noticed that 😱

Here is the link for uschi https://www.uschivdr.com a real artisan, you see a lot of his work in modelling magazines and WNW books. and a further link for SWS stencils from an Australian outlet https://www.bnamodelworld.com/parts-decals-for-aircraft-1:32-zoukei-mura-sws08-m07?zenid=338c4e7d5d3842313127828f5650fd67, there are two types of stencil available, RB Productions do them also https://www.bnamodelworld.com/general-detailing-sets-model-planes-rb-productions-rb-t029?zenid=338c4e7d5d3842313127828f5650fd67 they have 4 types I believe. I would find it difficult to believe that they would not be available in the US

Both methods are available, for selfish reasons, I would love to see both the decal and stencil options used by someone on the forum. Assume you have visited the uschi website?

Have you purchased the wood grain stencils for the Horten?

dremel

ADRIE Another great update. Firstly did you know there was another Revenge build on the site and secondly were you aware of the schedule of all builds (with links) that Dan Vad maintains - I am sure you'll be pleased to know that your build is now showing up in the schedule Everything printed in black should be left alone i.e. not cut out as it would never be seen as it will be covered by a solid piece. Anyway that is what I would have assumed for my build. How are you matching your paints for touch ups ? did you know that the Rensesans paints that were available through Shipyard are now available through another Polish outlet - I can send you the link if you are interested. I was going to try some Derwent water colour pencils that I purchased - however they may have to go on carefully to prevent the moisture distortion of the card - I will have to experiment - a lot of people use colour markers. There are a few Shipyard builds on the site that have scratched internal fixtures and fittings - also if you get a chance you may want to look at some of Doris' scratch builds (not as small as the 1/96) but unbelievable all the same - apart from everything else I love looking at her cabins and the associated furniture and fixings. Catapower's build are another great resource on this site for Shipyard builds - he also has a external site which is very interesting - again I can send you the link if you are interested. And of course don't forget Google I bet there will be a few German card model forums that will have Revenge builds. Looking forward to the next installment and how you are going to tackle some of the smaller 'internal' cut outs windows etc. RICHMOND

ADRIE I hope I haven't confused things, but it was those tiny projections that stick up at the top of each side of each of the bulkheads and to which the first layer of decking is meant to fit in around which I wicked with CA, I haven't wicked or used CA anywhere else - yet!. I never even glued my skeleton other than in a few places as I was concerned that I didn't want to lock it in until I started test fitting my first layer of hull planking. Love the idea with the curving of the piece, I was struggling with this on my build during dry fitting I think you are on the right track with the awl in lieu of cutting - I believe Dan Vad made a similar suggestion on my log but his comment I thought was specifically regarding the hull planking I hadn't though about it for the deck planking - the extra detail you went into seemed a great idea. My Carson Magnivisors Pro arrived from the US and they appear to be top quality and come with 4 sets of lenses all different magnification plus an LED light - I believe them to be very reasonably priced - I purchased them through Amazon and they are much better than the knock offs you get in any hobby or electronics shop. So hopefully I can make some small progress this weekend but I really need to concentrate on finishing my Mauretania which thankfully not as detailed.. I also did up a spreadsheet - it seems to go on forever and took me ages as I put so much detail into cross referencing to assembly pages amongst other things. I think the spreadsheet of parts is becoming standard for card modelers as you will note from other card modelers on the site. Great idea with the highlighting. Anyway this great and informative log continues with so much detail and so many tips - you are really paving the way for me - I hope I can rise to the challenge - look forward to further installments RICHMOND

ADRIE, Apolgies, I decided later not to contaminate your log with my comment, as it didn't seem relevant to your build. Just a couple of comments if I may. What is rubber cement? Can you you show me a picture which shows manufacturer and name of the product as things sometimes get different names in different countries. I tend to use PVA for everything, I am not a fan of the spray adhesives but the majority of card modellers seem to use it, each to their own I suppose. Even with the laser cut skeleton the kits still come with the original paper forms so I think you have done the right thing. Yes, the formers are deck supports. There were small upstands on my bulkheads which act as guides for the first decking layer, these are very weak and you may get into difficulty when placing your first layer of decking and destroy them. I wicked all these with thin CA from Zap. It is not clear from the instructions whether the thicknesses are final thickness or card thickness, it will be interesting to see what you find as you progress your build. Another note is that the photographs on my instructions are actually for the 1/72 laser cut model and not the actual 1/96 which is very confusing, I don't think there is a laser cut version for the Revenge so it may not be an issue for you. Also some parts don't have assembly instructions at all, which I found strange. The Wolf is on hold firstly because I await some Maginvisors to arrive from the US as everything is so small and secondly as I am a bit depressed with the time it is taking for Cornwall to resolve the missing instruction pages and laser cut hearts. Look forward to seeing more. RICHMOND

Chris, it's going to be an interesting build, assume this is somewhat similar to a lot of wooden ship models, no diagrams, written instruction and an assumption you know where everything goes. Luckily I did some searching on the web and there are quite a few builds of this model on the German forums which should prove very useful. I have also managed to scan the instructions and export to Word so I can copy and paste each step into a translator. I will have to be more careful when selecting my next HMV model.

Ab Very interesting and informative, thank you for sharing this with us. I am really looking forward to future posts. Richmond

I received the above model today from Fentens in Australia and I note there are no assembly diagrams and to make it worse all the assembly instructions are in German - does anyone know if this is standard for a HMV model or whether my recent bad luck on purchased card models (refer Wolf log) is continuing?. Post edit - I have just visited the German website for Fentens and note that it clearly states instructions are in German - I should have been more careful - still weird there are no assembly diagrams though. Off to investigate some translation software! RICHMOND

Very nice work.

Not sure if this is the right place to post. I have recently found these card sellers - all have English language website options plus very tidy websites. https://www.super-hobby.com/ https://www.kartonmodellbau.de (Fentens) - there is a Fentens in Australia as well but the stock is limited. Please note that Abadonna no longer exists so there is no longer a Shipyard 'ship' outlet in Australia although you can get their lighthouse kits from Modellers Central. https://www.papel3d.com/en/ Of course Cornwall sell card models as well, and their PP, as most of you would know, is very reasonable RICHMOND

Tomek, When you state you only glue the edges did you mean both the horizontal and vertical edges of the frames, rather than gluing the whole face of the first planking? Richmond

Similarly to Popeye I printed off the pictures from one of your builds of the cabin, with all the tables chairs, cabinets and table decorations and showed them to my work colleagues and they looked at those photographs in pure disbelief especially as I told them it was made out of card. I now have those photographs on my workshop wall, in the hope they can give me inspiration.

More angst with the Wolf. I ordered the laser cut blocks though Cornwall Model Boats which arrived yesterday. Unfortunately there is an issue with the 2.5mm hearts - Shipyard have inadvertently placed parts for blocks within the packet which means it is impossible to construct the 2.5mm hearts. If you look at the 3mm hearts packet on the right you may be able to discern what I mean. I have sent an email to Cornwall however given that they have not at this time been able to solve the missing assembly pages issue I do not hold out much hope. I am quickly losing confidence in Polish manufacturers, I have found both Shipyard and GPM's customer service lamentable. It is important to note that based on my dealings and from others comments I don't believe any of this is a reflection on Cornwall themselves. RICHMOND

PE looked great before the paint job, now it's superb, this build is a fantastic illustration of the benefits of fitting PE to a scale model, those louvres are outstanding.

Absolutley superb

Simply wonderful.

Such neat application of the PE

Great work and a very interesting log.

Messis They are a Japanese company, they are definitely available in Europe, I have seen them for sale in Germany and the U.K, search for the "MR" range of paints, Mr Hobby , Mr Colour, Aqueous etc and make sure you try their levelling thinner, which can be used with Tamiya as well. With your eye for colour I would expect exceptional results. Alternatively try Hobby Link or Hobby Search in Japan, both very reputable. Richmond

Fantastic start.

You are setting a very high bar, absolutley superb, top drawer.