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grsjax
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Everything posted by grsjax
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If you can get a hollow ground planer blade for your table saw you can cut very thin planks with it. Finish on the planks should be usable with little or no sanding. -
Ran across a model kit manufacture that I hadn't seen before. Turk Model has some interesting looking kits. Anyone had any experience with these kits?
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Have you considered using a small plane? Make a cradle that will hold the strip with the edge to be planed facing up. Use a very sharp blade and make small cuts until you have the surface you want.
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Anyone have any experiance with this company? Ran across a solid hull model of the Schooner Bluenose by this company and wondered if it is a good kit or something I should pass up?
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A problem with using a fret saw is putting to much pressure on the blade when sawing. I try to let the blade do the work with as little extra pressure as I can get away with.
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The original double hull canoes were carved from huge Koa wood logs. I believe the Hokule'a was actually built using plywood and fiberglass. However to build an authentic Hawaiian canoe the hulls should be carved. That said if you are going to paint the hulls it would be simpler to build using frames and strips and no one would know the difference.
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I was having problems with sawdust build up on the wheels of my 14" bandsaw. I looked around for a add on wheel brush to solve the problem but the ones offered by various outlets just didn't seem adequate. A Google search brought up this article. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/19465 Great idea to use an old toothbrush as a wheel brush. Cheap and easy, my favorite two words.
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Depends on what you think is difficult. A small scale three masted ship may not cause as much difficulty as a large scale open boat with a wealth of detailed structure and fittings. Take a look at Model Shipway's whaleboat kit and compare it to Amati's 1:177 (think that is the right scale) HMS Bounty as an example. The larger the scale the more detail is needed. Of course for a whaleboat and Bounty built at the same scale the latter is going to be more complicated. All in the eye of the builder.
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Bandsaw blade tension problems
grsjax replied to grsjax's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Picked up a Delta replacement spring for $9.50. Took about 5 min to swap out the old one. Cheap and easy fix. -
Bandsaw blade tension problems
grsjax replied to grsjax's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
No the band saw is to old to be under warranty. The spring didn't break it just got shorter. I have seen this before but only in light weight springs. Could be a bad spring but I am not going to worry about it. Cheap and easy enough to fix. -
Put a new blade on my 14" Delta clone and had problems getting the tension right. I would get it setup and start cutting and the blade tension would loosen. After going through everything I found the problem. The blade tension spring had failed and would not keep the blade tight. I was kind of surprised because I always loosen the tension when I am done and the spring is a pretty hefty one. The springs cost about $10 and are easy to replace. Lesson learned is to check your bandsaw over regularly with particular attention paid to things like springs that can fail.
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Elmer's WoodFiller. Easy to work with. Goes on blue and turns white when it is dry.
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They may be fair leads for some of the running rigging. A side view or detail view would shed more light on the subject.
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4 to 5 inches.
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Here is a picture of a piece of the wood. I think this is sap wood which is lighter than the heart wood. Still very wet so could change color as it dries. It planes easily.
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I picked up a load of avocado wood today. Anyone have any experience using it in model building? According to the internet it works much like birch or big leaf maple. Color looks to be a light to medium brown. Haven't cut it into boards yet so don't know how the grain is going to look.
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These are the articles I was referring to. If you can't find them in the on-line store at the NRG website email the journal and ask if they are available. Ronnberg, Erik A.R.: The Albatros - Swallow Reconstruction. Nautical Research Journal Vol. 29, Bethesda, 1983. pp 90-92, ill. Ronnberg, Erik A.R. Jr: Albatros - Swallow - Postscript. Nautical Research Journal Vol. 29, Bethesda, 1983. pp 133-135, ill. Gillmer, Thomas C.: Albatros - Swallow, Additional Comments. Nautical Research Journal Vol. 29, Bethesda, 1983. pp 136.
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- HMS Harvey
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Read "The Baltimore Clipper" by Howard Chapelle for a wealth of info on the design and construction of these ships. Be forwarned that the Harvey is not a real ship and in some ways doesn't really represent a Baltimore Clipper. There are also some excellent articles in back issues of the NRG journal (vol 29:91) on this very subject. I think they were in the mid '80s but you can check the NRJ index.
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Turbocad 21 Pro
grsjax replied to Brian100's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
I have DesignCad 3D v21 which is made by the same company. Works very well. -
Smoothing wood filler
grsjax replied to grsjax's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Good question. I have never tried to wet sand wood filler. -
I use Elmers wood filler for a number of purposes and find it to work fine. Only problem is that sanding it makes a mess of find white power that gets everywhere. Today I tried a different method. I used a single sided razor blade as a scraper over the area that had been filled and it worked great. No dust and I got a very smooth finish. Just need to sand in a few areas that I couldn't get the blade into and a little finish shaping. End result is a good surface and far less cleanup.
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To keep wood from darkening you might want to try a finish with a UV blocking additive. Krylon is one brand that has a UV blocking clear finish.
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All depends on what you want to do with the saw. As others have said a scroll saw is great for cutting tight curves but isn't very good for long straight cuts. A bandsaw does a great job of ripping and cutting gentler curves and will handle much thicker material than a scroll saw. Best thing is to have both but if you can only get one or the other it will depend on what you need it for most. If most of your cutting is tight curves in thin material a scroll saw is the way to go. BTW you can get 1/16" blades for a band saw that will cut some really tight curves.
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What is the exact thickness of plates of iron in the 1870s?
grsjax replied to Moony's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Just my opinion so take it for what it is worth. I would say that each builder decided what size and thickness of plate to use based on experiance and availability. I don't think there was any standard in the industry. I know Lloyds published a set of specifications for insurance purposes but I do not know exactly when that was. If you know what Lloyds classification the ship was you could check to see what Lloyds requirements were but that would be a guide not an exact size. -
If you want a saw for ripping hardwoods a scroll saw may not be your best choice. A small bandsaw would do as well for cutting out bulkheads and be a much better choice for ripping lumber into strips.
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