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grsjax
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Everything posted by grsjax
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I would think that anything the size of a ship of the lines keel would require bolting as well as wedging. Keels were made up of as many as 7 pieces and must have been under tremendous stress and strain all the time. If I remember correctly there were a couple of different methods of making the scarp in the keel one of which did use a wedge in a similar manner. -
Although more elaborate this is pretty much the same method used in the Royal Dock Yards to splice together the long keels of large ships.
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There are several low temp silver solder pastes available. I purchased some from Amazon and have been pretty happy with it. You have to be careful if you are soldering several pieces together because the earlier joints will soften and/or melt if the piece gets to hot.
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Did some searching for Polybak online and found this vendor that sells single 49"x97" sheets. Don't know what they charge as you need to setup a business account to see the prices. https://www.wurthlac.com/storefront/pre-fab-components/backing-sheets/polybak-backing-sheet-paint-grade-011-thick-49-x-97-/prodPCCLPGBTN.html Here is another vendor that will provide laserboard (not sure what kind) custom cut to your specs and also sells sheets (from 12"x12") of the material. http://automatedartists.com/laserboard
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Update. Take all 3 books for $20 including shipping in US.
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Several 24x10 drawings (one sheet for each sub) of US subs marked "Warship Drawings, Edward H. Wiswesser". Plans are in good shape but have been stored folded and have creases. The paper has darkened some. Price is $8 each including first class shipping in the US. U.S.S. Corsair, SS435 to SS524 U.S.S. Seawolf/Nautilus, SSN571 and 575 U.S.S. Tang, SS563 to SS568 U.S.S. Thresher, SSN593 to SSN615 I had to crib pictures off the net as my camera is acting up. Same drawings but actual may look slightly different.
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Shipping is $3 ea. within the US. The Neophyte Shipmodelers Jackstay by George F. Campbell, M.R.I.N.A. Very good condition 1988 reprint. Softcover, tight binding, clean pages. $6 Ship Models: How to Build Them by Charles G. Davis Very good condition Dover reprint. Softcover, tight binding, clean pages. $5 The Ship Model Builders Assistant by Charles G. Davis Very good condition Dover reprint. Softcover, tight binding, clean pages. $5
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All books are in very good or better condition with dust jackets. Tight bindings and clean pages. Shipping is $4 ea. within the US. International shipment will require figuring shipping for destination. The 20-Gun Ship Blandford by Peter Goodwin $25 The 100-Gun Ship Victory by John McKay (some very minor marks on the dust cover) $25 The 24-Gun Frigate Pandora by John McKay and Ron Coleman $40 All 3 books for $80 shipping included in the US.
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Very good condition copy. Hardback with dust cover. Dust cover has a clear plastic covering. Tight binding with clean pages. ISBN: 0890092710 1979 Published by Chartwell Books, Inc. 192 pages, lots of illustrations. SOLD
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Working with braided steel lines
grsjax replied to skipper1947's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
That looks like twisted wire rope to me. -
Working with braided steel lines
grsjax replied to skipper1947's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Could you post a closeup picture of the wire? I would like to see what kind of wire you are using. Thanks -
Working with braided steel lines
grsjax replied to skipper1947's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
When I attempted it to do it that way the twist was either to loose, or the twisted wire would kink. Never could get wire rope that actually looked like the real thing. BTW wire rope is usually made with more than 3 wires. Common classifications are 7x7, 7x19, 6x26, 6x36 and 19x7 strands. There are other configurations but these are most common. -
Working with braided steel lines
grsjax replied to skipper1947's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You might be right. Just going with what I have observed. When I heat a piece of steel and let it cool it bends easier. Of course that might be highly dependent on type of steel and how hot I got it. Didn't do any scientific experiments, just what I observed in practice. -
Working with braided steel lines
grsjax replied to skipper1947's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Making twisted wire rope isn't easy, even at small scales. Takes a lot of tension to keep the twist tight. A regular rope walk probably wouldn't be enough. -
Working with braided steel lines
grsjax replied to skipper1947's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Depending on what type of steel is used it may be possible to anneal the ends to make them less springy. Use a propane torch and hold the wire with a set of pliers. The pliers should be metal and fairly large to act as a heat sink to keep the annealing confined to the part you want to bend. If you can't get the wire into a condition you want you might want to check out jewelry suppliers for braided wire that is less springy. It comes in a large range of sizes in a couple of different braids (5 strand, 7 strand, 9 strand, etc). -
Some what true recently but there are a lot of articles about the history of specific ships and ship building in back issues of the NRJ.
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Is "To Build a Whaleboat: Historical Notes and a Modelmaker's Guide" by Erik Ronnberg the book you are going to get at Mystic Seaport? If not you should take a look at Mr. Ronnberg's book. It is the best I have found on building a whaleboat model.
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Software recommendations
grsjax replied to Sailor1234567890's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
DesignCad 3D is a good program and doesn't cost a lot. I picked up one that was an earlier version for less than $20 on eBay. I don't know if it will work with a Mac but you can get a Windows emulator for the Mac that can run this software. -
I find a slide on top of the saw table works well for strips. Clamp the wood to be cut to the slide and you can cut thin strips without a fence and without endangering your fingers. Added a picture of a nicely made table saw slide.
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The Pride of Baltimore or the Latham would be pick. As Ron says the Santa Maria might be difficult. I wouldn't start with the whale boat. Although the whaleboat shape is generally considered easy to plank this kit is very detailed and takes some time to do right.
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The acid etching results in a surface with a greater area than un-etched surface. The same is true for cleaning with pumice or other abrasives. This is a factor in the blacking process because it gives the blacking solution more area to interact with. I get much the same results using a similar process to that described by Landlocked123 but I use white vinegar instead of sparex. The white vinegar is acidic enough to etch brass and white metal, it is cheap and doesn't require any mixing. An important factor is cleaning the metal very well and rinsing all residue from the cleaning solution from the metal. BTW if you want to make your own blacking solution you can use a super-saturated solution of copper carbonate (CuCO3Cu(OH)2) and regular, over-the-counter ammonia.
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Did all topsail schooners have ratlines on both masts?
grsjax replied to Cathead's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
On small craft it was not unusual to have only one or even no shrouds on a mast. The mast was a single timber and usually very heavy. As for getting to the top sails sailors would use the mast hoops as a ladder and climb to the top that way. -
Model Shipway's Paints
grsjax replied to Worldway's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Mix the paint really well and use a good filler on the wood.
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