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Matt D

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Everything posted by Matt D

  1. 8 feet long?! Wow! This will be amazing! I can’t wait to see your progress.
  2. Here are a couple of shots of the railing around the companionway. I tried to do this exactly as described in chapter 7. Turning the stanchions was very easy using a Dremel tool and a small file. I glued it up using PVA. I expected it to be very fragile, but it’s surprising strong. I pinned it using 24 gauge steel wire. I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.
  3. Thanks for looking, JJ. Yes, the lower part is all the way into the base below. Once I have a better idea of how high it should be, I can carefully cut or sand it down to fit. So this is a solvable problem.
  4. I think I have a problem with the height of my capstan. I can’t find a good view that shows how high above the quarterdeck beams the upper capstan should be. But I think mine is too high. I’ve carefully measured with my calipers and the top of the cog is 11/64” above the beam just forward of the capstan. Do any of you know if that’s too high as I suspect?
  5. Your model is looking great, Yves! I second what Allan said - your log is fantastic!
  6. That sounds terrible, David. I hope everyone was ok. I hope your new Syren build goes well.
  7. Welcome aboard the Winchelsea project, my fellow Michigander! You’re definitely not too late to the party. You will see that we have someone working in every chapter at this moment, which is pretty amazing if you ask me. So there are many sources of good advice for you. As Joe has already mentioned, birch plywood is potentially a problem. Do you mean high quality Baltic Birch? Or are you talking about the birch plywood that they sell at Lowes and Home Depot, which is only veneered in birch and is much softer inside? The former is much more like hardened blue steel appropriate for the hull of a battleship. Fairing it will be a really hard job. The latter is just about perfect for this project. My first hull attempt was with Baltic Birch. My second was with Home Depot birch.
  8. I'll give that a try, Frank. Here I thought the Glue Gods were just frowning on me.
  9. The "window maker" glass looks really nice, Gary. I used Micro Krystal Klear for mine, following Bob's lead @rafine . I had already installed and enclosed the acetate on the outboard stern, just as you have described. But with the Micro Krystal Klear, I was able to carefully put it over top using a toothpick to spread it around just like you would in an empty frame. One advantage (in addition to having a look you might like better) is that it gives some degree of protection against breaking the window pieces later in the build. You might be able to test it on one of the extra windows from Chapter 3 by gluing an acetate window on and then applying the window maker afterwards.
  10. Thanks, Rusty, and all of the likes, too. Chapter 7 has some neat stuff in it. But I'm a little freaked out by the beams. On the one hand, I can't wait to get them in and I love how they're going to look. On the other, I want to make sure everything is just right and the cannon are all very secure before I close her up. I'd hate to have to try to remove any of these beams down the road!
  11. I’m with you on putting off the cannon as long as possible, brother! I still have 8 in the packages! Also, your lights look really cool, JJ!
  12. You’re the man, @James H!
  13. I just want to say thank you to whoever came up with the new up arrow button at the lower right. I love not having to scroll all day to get back to the top of the page, now.
  14. You're doing a beautiful job, Frank! I'm looking forward to seeing your planking come together. The lines are excellent.
  15. Thanks, Glenn and Chuck. I need to be more judicious with the CA on the rest of the hinges. And for some reason it sticks much better where you don’t want it, than where you do.
  16. That looks great, Brad! It looks like you're doing well figuring out how to make use of the laser cutter.
  17. Where has the time gone? I’m working on chapter 7 and thought I’d add an update. I couldn’t help myself and had to start the chain pumps as soon as I received my chapter 7 parts. They’re not fully complete, but you can see that the bulk of the work is done. After that, I worked on the beams. Thanks to Chuck’s wonderful design on the deck clamps in Chapter 4, the beams are very easy to fit and align. With all of the quarter deck beams fit, I’m now working on the bulkheads. The center section of the aft bulkhead is not attached in the photo below. I have test fit and glued the fore to aft piece to ensure that aft bulkhead is vertical with respect to the model. I’d like to leave one door open in this bulkhead, but it won’t be either of the starboard side doors because I’ve accidentally glued the edges of those doors to the bulkhead pieces. I’ll try to be more careful on the port side. If you see those installed closed in a later post, you’ll know I was unsuccessful. Here’s a picture of a little project I did with my 15 year old son during the holiday break in the kids’ bathroom. These are new drawers in the vanity that fit next to the sink. The kids will each have their own drawer. He needed to do a project for a boy scout merit badge and I wanted to make their bathroom a little less messy.
  18. That looks excellent, Rusty! I thought about you earlier today when I was making more eye bolts for my Winnie. Thanks again for your instructions.
  19. Amazing, Greg! Your work is so impressive. Thank you for sharing it with us.
  20. Bob was an amazing member of this community and one of my favorite people here. I’m so sorry he’s gone. Rest In Peace, Bob.
  21. Stay strong, Bob. They’ll keep making them if they’re worth buying. That’s what I tell myself.
  22. Chuck, I’m so excited to see you start on the Speedwell! Thanks for bringing another amazing project to life and sharing with us. I love what you bring to this hobby.
  23. Gorgeous, Glenn! I love how the stern looks with those beautiful carvings and the quarter galleries. It's just terrific.
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