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Matt D
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Everything posted by Matt D
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They totally forgot about the delusions of grandeur!
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Royal Caroline by EJ_L - Panart - 1:48
Matt D replied to EJ_L's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
That floor looks amazing, EJ! Excellent, excellent work!! -
Happy New Year, friends! Thank you, Rusty, JJ, Glenn, and Frank for your kind words. Thanks also for your input on the quoin handles and the discussion in Rusty’s log. I’m trying to emulate Henry Ford’s assembly line with these guns, but I can’t get myself to make very many split rings and eye bolts before I get frustrated and have to start working on something else. So it has been more of getting each carriage ready for the metalwork and then make those parts. I’m sure it’s slower, but I enjoy it better that way. I’m glad I don’t work in a factory. I’d never survive!
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Welcome to the Winchelsea group, Dusan! It’s a great time to start. I hope you have a lot of fun with the project.
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Me, too. I did a google search for 18th century cannon quoin and found a pretty big range with respect to the knob (don’t know what it’s called) on the tail of the barrel. Some of the handles were almost as big and others looked puny like our 6mm pins. Like you, Rusty, I have plenty of carriages to build and barrels to weather while I ponder.
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Here are my cheeks and hair brackets. These were a lot of fun to build. I’m working on the guns, now and I have a dilemma. I bought some 6mm belaying pins from Crafty Sailor and I’m concerned that they are too small. Here’s a picture of one with a 6mm belaying pin and one with a larger handle turned down from a definitely too large belaying pin. What do you think?
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Those look terrific, Rusty. I bought the 6mm belaying pins to use as quoin handles, too. I thought they looked too small. But seeing yours, I think I'll try them.
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This is looking good, Mordswixed! This is an excellent kit for a first wooden model and it builds into a nice looking model. You’re coming up on a trouble spot in the build. Many of us had a problem with the rudder. In the instructions, it fits straight as the laser cut piece is made. But the fit isn’t right and it needs an offset to look right. Be sure to look at the other build logs to see how others solved it. I cut a new one out of scraps on mine.
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Rusty, those rings and eye bolts look terrific! I'm working on the same parts and they are not easy to get right.
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Yup, I remember. Ben, you’re a genius for making use of it there.
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Wait a minute! There were laser etched moldings you could use for that?! Man I wish I wasn’t such a dimwit!
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Chuck, the binnacle is beautiful! I can’t wait to build it. Speedwell? I’m 100% in! It was already on my long term wish list. I’ll definitely buy both books, too.
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Chuck, I’m in for the POF project. I’m sure it will be challenging, but much easier as a group project. It’s probably my best shot at finishing a fully framed model.
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I hear you, JJ, as both of those are beauties. I can tell you that I'm doing either the Hudson River Sloop or the Hornet next. As far as I can tell, @Chuck hasn't let on yet which one is next!
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It looks like you're doing an excellent job, Dave!
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I'm looking forward to watching your build of this beautiful kit, James!
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Looking good, Steve! Welcome to the Winchelsea Club! This project is amazing and there are several excellent build logs to learn from. Be sure to read a lot of them so you can avoid repeating mistakes. It's much better to make your own mistakes than to copy others! Is this true Baltic Birch or is it the 1/4" birch from Home Depot or Lowes? I used the stuff from HD and it was fine. It's really just the outer veneer that's birch. The inner layers are pretty soft and easy to work. But my first attempt was Baltic Birch and it was like I made it out of sheets of granite - absolutely rock hard and impossible to work on. Thankfully, I had other problems and had to start over. Lastly, the Chapter 1 set from Chuck is the laser cut AYC or cherry pieces, not the bulkheads. So you may want to buy that.
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All that time you’re spending on each strake will pay off, WalrusGuy. It looks like you’re doing a good job following your tick marks.
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Beautiful work, James. I'm impressed by how well your masking went. You must have had the 3mm tape absolutely perfect to avoid bleeding of the red paint at the top of the white. Good job!. How is the lettering done? Did it come with the kit or was it something you added?
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Your bulkheads look great, Paul. You did a really good job on the false keel. I had a very hard time with the joints on mine.
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I think what you’re asking for is the maximum theoretical force. That would simply be the dynamic pressure times the cross sectional area. Dynamic pressure is the pressure of air in the direction of flow, which is 1/2 rho x V^2, where rho is air density and V is velocity. It’s not possible for the force to be higher than that. The ratio between the actual force and the maximum theoretical force is the drag coefficient. This is an application of Burnoulli’s principle.
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That's what you do when you give up playing the piano in favor of building model ships.
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Those came our beautiful, Matthias! I'm still amazed that you can make those panels in 1/4" scale.
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