Capt. Kelso

I built the Bluejacket and Model Shipways kits, both fine kits but different scales. Depending on your skill level, the Model Shipways kit is an easier build. Vast difference in Instruction detail.

Nice build!

Kits are new

These kits are new, opened once, available for local pickup within a reasonable distance from Rehoboth Beach, Delaware. Price is negotiable, will sell individually. Kits were owned by an avid ship modeler who passed away recently. Proceeds will be donated to the Rehoboth Beach Senior Center.

Nice job!

The process I follow is to glue then paint. I use an airbrush, paint the hull and then mask off the items to be painted a different color. Tamiya has a good product line of masking tape which I use.

I've used an older version of the Harbor Freight scroll saw to scratch build RC airplane frames, similar build concept to model ship building. After some practice I found it to be an excellent tool.

I've removed paint from plastic kits by just soaking in Windex. I use a small plastic storage bin with a lid, paint usually will peel off. Used an old toothbrush on the stubborn paint.

Nice job!

Impressive build.

Some progress on deck structures. Need to clean up the copper on the try works, trying to give it a slight weathered look.

You didn't provide any details on the "product", who makes it? I've never seen it before.

Here's my set up using a parts bin from Home Depot and some Modular units from Hobbyzone. The units are made of strong material which I assembled with wood glue. I didn't include everything on my bench, various other Modular units. I included the link. The draw units are excellent and available in different sizes. HobbyZone USA Modular Workshop System Solutions

Good start with your build. Another option for making oars, a piece of wood dowel and scrap wood. The top oar in the photo is the kit oar, I wasn't happy with them.

Finished painting the hull and bulwarks. Adding the deck structures beginning at the bow. This is an old school time-consuming build, few cast fittings, no laser cut pieces. The kit instructions and plans lack considerable detail. I have to keep reminding myself the plans (kit and Museum) are not of the actual ship but are a representation of period vessels. Thanks to Thomas J. Lauria, (https://tjlauria.com/gallery/whaling-schooner-kate-cory/) and his model of Kate Cory for helping me keep my sanity and providing additional detail.

I did some hull reefing on the L. A. Dunton Schooner under restoration at Mystic Seaport, the caulking went through the planking. That could be the result of the wood aging and sagging. When I removed ceiling planks and any excess Oakum from inside the hull, size of gaps in hull planks clearly varied. The hull planks being replaced were not milled to provide gaps for caulking.

Haven't made much progress of late, some life issues interfered with my hobby time, imagine that. The Try Pots have been an interesting project, more involved than I expected. Everything except the pots is scratch built. Fortunately, the Whaling Museum plans are very detailed. I still have some minor detailing, then a coat of Dullcoat lacquer will help bring color consistency. I think I did a post on the brickwork some time ago. Started with a piece of scribed deck and using a small screwdriver added the lines of bricks. Sealed the wood and painted using a rust color. When dry, a wash of light gray watercolor to highlight the mortar. Finishing the remaining deck structures. When building these small deck structures, I have found using various size precut small wood strips, HO and N scale modeling supplies, make it easier to reproduce scale trim and framing pieces. Also, poly rod was used for the window bars (have to post another photo).

I've used the Chopper I & II for many years for various projects with good results, especially cutting hull and deck planks. The Chopper II is a much-improved version of the Chopper I, it's important to change the blades regularly.

Congratulations on your build.

It's helpful to clean off any burn marks, especially any areas that will be painted. Regarding the width of the frames, don't be too concerned if they are a little wide because they will need to be faired when you start planking.

Impressive!

Finished coppering the hull and then mounted on a temporary base. It is important not to use a cradle as it will damage the plates. The thin wood strip is a "wood guard" added at the water line as noted in the Whaling Museum plans. Next step is to finish the rudder, hinges, and give the copper a good cleaning before airbrushing a coat of Dullcote lacquer. This stage of the build was very time consuming and I am anxious to start on the deck structures

Looking to buy a vintage Bluejacket Kit, Cabot. Prefer complete unstarted.

Started coppering the hull. This is a very tedious and time-consuming process, especially preparing the plates. There are many posts regarding "how to" but they basically involve using copper tape. This process involves applying individual plates. For reference material I have books and copies of NRJ articles as noted in my prior posts. These are in addition to plans from New Bedford whaling Museum. The color of the plating is a modelers choice, I choose a dullish color similar to "yellow metal" or" Muntz metal" because after the early 1830's a composite zinc/copper mixture metal was used, Kate Cory was built in 1856. The reference material also contains a comparison of how copper plating was manufactured and stored which also impacted the color, dull versus today's bright color copper used on yachts for example. I made a template from .020 plastic stock to mark the belts. To prepare the plates, first remove the adhesive from the copper tape by soaking the tape with backing attached in a jar of lacquer thinner. Once the backing became loose, wipe the adhesive off the tape with a clean cloth. Then, back in a jar of clean thinner. After the second cleaning, pass the tape over a heat source, I use a small candle to dull the color. This process will not produce a uniform color effect! Next, start cutting, these plates are 1/4" x 3/4" which is close in scale (with overlap) to the 14" x 48" plates used on the Kate Cory. I estimate I cut approximately 400 plates. Once the plates were cut, back in the jar for cleaning, remove fingerprints, etc... Excluding prep time, I've spent 4 hours applying plates, long way to go. Once the adhesive sets, I'll smooth out the plates.

Impressive build!