iMustBeCrazy
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Everything posted by iMustBeCrazy
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Enough for today, chines and shelves made and fitted, errors corrected. Next I have to work where and out how everything attaches to the stem.
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Glitch number 2 and 3, Frame E is an inch too tall, frame B is 3/8 too tall. Can still be fixed in-situ but I'm kicking myself.
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1st glitch, messed up frame D. Fortunately the fix will be hidden inside the hull, I just need to re-cut the notch for the chine and sand down the frame and stringers.
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I think/hope my drawings are complete enough to build a model hull, only time will tell. Progress so far:
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Something a little different. Hopefully this will be a quick build at least up to a painted hull, I only have until Easter to get that far. Some may be wondering why I'm not working on my Bounty launch. Kitty was built in 1949 by my father and three mates and was going to be my next build after the launch but the son of one of the builders will be visiting at Easter so the launch is on the back burner. I have been playing with drawings for a few months based on photocopies of photocopies of the 'plans' in a magazine, some incomplete drawings my father did in preparation for making a model, some photographs of the build and, fortunately, the materials list.
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Thanks Tim, they seem to be. At this stage it's just a rough coating of shellac to seal it.
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Unfortunately I stuffed up either my measurements or my gluing of the landing strakes and the sheers don't overlap the landing strakes properly. There should be a 1" (scale 1/16") overlap the full length but I finished up with zero overlap at E, F, G and at the transom. The stem and midships are fine. I Ummed and Ahhed for some time and finally decided to add some packers to make the sheer sit at the same height it would be if it overlapped and then when I fit the fender it will hide everything.
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Ok, I'm back. I got some insect repellent in my eyes and couldn't focus well enough for close work even with magnifying glasses. Better now. Prior to that I fitted the landing strakes. These are clinker as mentioned above. This time I used a stepped rebate for the gains rather than the 45°s that I used on the small cutter. I glued depth stops to a pair of blades (you need a left and a right) and cut rebates going down to half the thickness of the planks. It worked well and was easier than the 45°.
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I'm not that old! The only real problem is you need to come up to the forward thwart. Some examples: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66671 https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-67761 Based mainly on the above and other contemporary models, the quarterdeck was likely solid (no gaps between planks), the foredeck either solid or a grating. Based on experience, the rowers need somewhere to brace their feet. Either raised floorboards or footrests. There will be exceptions.
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I thought you were being a bit optimistic at 10mm diameter.
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Thanks Tim, remember the tortoise and the hare. More importantly, take breaks while things are still going well.
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The carvel planking is done, the next two (landing and sheer strakes) will be clinker/lapstrake so I'm going to have to change the way I think.
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Not exactly but the RMG has her down as 1777.
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Tim, have you seen the nice big clear Danish Archive copy of the Rattlesnake drawing? https://ao.sa.dk/ao/data.ashx?bid=31921156
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Just a minor update, planking continues slowly. Although I've decided that the originals hull was most likely painted white I'm going leave mine natural with a coating of shellac, the timber is quite pale so it's 'close' to white and it will show off my work. And a better visualisation of Allan's project
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Haven't we all? Taking a stab at it, from the comment about being short of white (paint) for the small cutter I'd guess all the boats were painted white (impress the natives) with the sheer probably painted in a colour that somehow matched the Bounty. Sometime before leaving Tahiti the bottom of the launch was painted with half pitch half tar (probably coal pitch (black) and pine (or Stockholm) tar (anything from light amber to dark brown)). The effect was probably a brown/black wash over the white leaving the launch rather dirty/shabby in appearance which would do little to impress the natives and may have increased the chance of being attacked. Model Shipways kit (green) v ZAZ7361 the drawing from the books:
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Lapwing 1816 Revenue Cutter
iMustBeCrazy replied to iMustBeCrazy's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Sorry to say, no. I realised I didn't know enough about the construction of ships (or their drawings) so I started working on drawings of boats and am working my my back up. I am learning and expect to come back to Lapwing sometime. -
Have fun, those futtocks will be 1/32 square at the head. To me that's getting close to needing a stereoscopic microscope and making cuts between heartbeats. No caffeine!
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For my next I'm thinking something different, my father and his mates built this in 1949: 19th century? https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23486-lapwing-1816-revenue-cutter/?do=findComment&comment=691663 I still have a lot of work to do on it though.
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(unintelligible choking noises)
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The diagonals, I think I remember them marking the heads and heels of the floors and futtocks, but I might be wrong. And again it varies, some say the heels of the futtocks should come back to the keel but I can't see the need structurally. I have no idea as to dates.
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I have to agree, without giving Tim too bigger a head, I have seen worse from people on their second or third kit. Well done. Of course there are issues (just to keep that head from swelling too much), the gaps, the bows, the transom, but I have no doubt that the next one will be even better. Tim, make up a brace to hold the sides in until you have fitted the thwarts (see my small cutter #27). Inwale (4x1mm strip running along the inside of the frames at the top of the sheer), breasthook and transom knees. All this adds strength. Then work from the bottom up. Don't get too obsessed with tools, it really doesn't take much with a kit and you can buy or build them as you go. Please do start a build log when you get the Launch, there are a few tricks and traps you will want to avoid.
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A bit of a weird update. 1st a collage of some of the steps of making a plank. 1/ Using tape to mark edge. 2/ Stinking tape on board. 3/ VERY roughly marking the other edge. 4/ roughly cut out. 5/ Roughly sanded and test fitted, high points (between arrows) marked. 6/ High points lightly sanded, test fitted again, new high points marked. After that I got more serious, took the tape off and marked in pencil, added a VERY important alignment mark. After I fitted that pair of strakes It was time for some checking. First I found a new use for calipers, you can use them to compare both sides of the keel, I found the third strake starboard side had crept forwards about 0.5mm. Not bad but fixed anyway. I then redid the plank width calculations for the area remaining, the worst was at frame 'D' where the remaining strakes needed to be 0.3mm narrower which is pretty good.
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I've used it and it's ok but I grabbed the wider ( 1 1/2") tape one time and it stays flatter. You don't really need see through. Pressing the pencil against the edge/corner of the plank will give you a good enough line. You don't want an exact cut, leave a little 'meat' to sand off.
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My take on the masking tape method. A piece of tape is placed on the model overlapping the preceding plank. It should lie flat simulating the plank you are going to make and not have any edge set, just laying naturally not forced. I then mark the edge of the preceding plank, the transom, the frames, especially frame 0, and the stem rabbet. Note that I marked the rabbet wrong in the following picture, it should be a curve. I then transfer the tape to a board and cut the shape of the preceding plank and the the opposite edge slightly oversize (say 2mm). I test fit the new plank on the model against the preceding plank and sand away any high points, rinse and repeat until the plank fits. I should then be able to use this plank as a template for the other side of the hull. (I will use the one below as a template for both sides while correction my 'rabbet' error). I then use the measurements (previous post) to shape the opposite edge.
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