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Everything posted by iMustBeCrazy
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I figured that. One thing they couldn't stop themselves doing was playing with her, hardly any two photos are the same. The deck had a support in the middle of the turret (it shows in the drawing) and the 'cantilevered' deck stopped just past that. True but otherwise she would have been scrapped, at least we can still see her.
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G'day Steven, Having known her all my life and having walked her decks a few times Cerberus is certainly on my list. I have an original of this drawing inherited from my Uncle. I intend to redraw it in CAD but as usual it doesn't quite agree with other drawings I have found, unfortunately I can't find any 'official' drawings. Even her length varies. Anyway, I have a little collection of photos, drawings etc. If you need anything just ask.
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Transom Build Plans
iMustBeCrazy replied to Matrim's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Oops. Doh! I blame working in 3D, it's unnatural. But on the bright side, we're getting closer and I'm learning things. -
Transom Build Plans
iMustBeCrazy replied to Matrim's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
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Transom Build Plans
iMustBeCrazy replied to Matrim's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
A section of an inverted cone sounds like a pretty good description, but shouldn't there be some curvature to it? Perhaps a section of an inverted bullet shape? -
Transom Build Plans
iMustBeCrazy replied to Matrim's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
I'm going to have to call it a 'rounded corner', an eighth of a sphere isn't right (but that's what is shown here). However you can see where the rounded corner cuts into T4 and T5, they will have to be shaped to fit. The rounded corner will need to follow the curve of station 29 and transom 3 will need to be extended outside the lower deck. The rounded corner will have to have a tighter radius. -
Transom Build Plans
iMustBeCrazy replied to Matrim's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
(Note: The drawings below are really rough) It's both to give an intersecting point in space. The problem is that we know there are complex curves above waterline 5 and aft of station 29 and the plans give us no information about this area. Below W4 things are pretty straightforward because we have the shapes at the waterlines and adding new station lines aft of S29 is pretty much like nailing a batten on. We add in what info we have. And here we run in to my lack of skill, Transom 3 (in blue above) should have another curve on the aft surface curving forwards at the bottom edge. More importantly there is a shape, roughly an eighth of a sphere (visualise an orange cut vertically into four quarters the once horizontally giving eight "triangular" segments) with one of the points touching one of those top aft corners. (or something like that) The plans give no information about this shape or how it fairs into the waterlines etc we do have. Obviously the above drawing has errors, T2 is too wide t4 is too narrow and the curves aren't there. -
From the short grain where those three broke you were always going to have trouble. I suspect they were cut too close to a knot. Bending them at 90° to the way you did may have helped but probably not. If the wood had been milled with straight grain it would be a lot easier. I would suggest boil longer, take a rib direct from the boiling water and clamp it to to the mould near the keel, then walk your fingers along the rib bending it to the mould as you go. If at any time it doesn't feel like it's going to bend throw it back in the boiling water. I broke several when I did it but I salvaged a couple by putting a clamp over the split to keep the bend then superglueing them when they dried.
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Debating what to do about the colour scheme. The exterior I will probably paint white or white below the waterline, the interior I'm going to leave 'natural' but the wood seemed a bit too light (see first pic in the post above) so I took some shellac and added a touch of spirit based stain and brushed it on. Seems to have done the trick nicely. The stain bled through the plank joins in some places, but only enough to darken the seams a little. I could leave the hull with the current shellac finish without anyone noticing.
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Transom Build Plans
iMustBeCrazy replied to Matrim's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Well I'm certainly not one of them, I believe I'm further down the learning curve than you. But since I have to do this myself sometime I had a play and this is what I came up with (not much): This superimposes the frame plan (green) and the outboard profile (blue) over the inboard profile (red) and shows that the transoms are horizontal across the stern and that they are horizontal in profile except number 3 which tilts down following the lower deck. Since number 3 tucks up under the lower deck, we can use the lower deck plan to get the shape of number 3. That's about all I can come up with, hope it helps. -
Kitty's hull is currently getting re-painted white, I had it wrong. She will look a lot better for it. I have also drawn up the mast, below is what I had to work with alongside one cross section drawn by my Father. That's the mast on the right and the boom at the bottom. And, no I can't read any of the measurements either.
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I was looking at drawing this trunnion carronade ( https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-86768 ) as a possibility For Lapwing when I get back to her. But it turned out that it was a poorly dimensioned sketch and the carronade is too wide for trunnion supports to fit on the slide and bed. I could have made those wider but decided to put the mount under the barrel as per more normal carronades. I also decided to do a 3D version which is something that has been outside my comfort zone. The results so far: The barrel was built in sections indicated by the different colours. And the mount was merged into the section of barrel. Drawings and perhaps an STL file later, decisions about what to include and angles still to be made.
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Looking good. But have you faired 1,2 and 3 already? That gets done after you fit the ribs to the other moulds (but not 1,2 & 3). Not a big deal if you have but you will have to glue on some false ribs. So, your spacers are about 0.1mm long giving a cumulative error of about 1.5mm or are the about 0.2mm long giving a cumulative error of about 1.5mm each end? I think the magic number was 26.1mm so I would suggest replacing every fourth one with one 0.2mm short (ie: 25.9mm). These have to twist to follow the faired moulds, I'm not too sure about a bending iron. I think I finished up boiling them for two minutes and fitting them as one piece (port and starboard as one) by poking it through the keel to the middle then bending but I don't think the keel actually needs to be fitted which would make it easier. Don't just grab the ends and bend, work your way out from the false keel applying pressure and clamping as you go. Make two sets of ribs so you have the intermediate ones pre-bent. When the second set has dried you could put a small dab of glue on each and then fit the keel. 😁
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I certainly did Tim. Fortunately my run has had better outcomes. Late last year my younger brother was diagnosed with leukemia, treatment seems to have worked but full recovery will take time. Two weeks ago my mother had a small heart attack during a pacemaker replacement, she is nearing recovery. Three days after that my elder brother was diagnosed with prostate cancer, it was removed and despite it being a very aggressive cancer it doesn't appear to have spread. Me, my migraines are almost gone (they were only mild anyway). But, that's life in a big city. As for cutters, Lapwing will probably get some re-drawing after reading this document posted by Kris.
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