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Everything posted by Long9Ron
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Rusty Such a beautiful job. Very well done. Showcase model indeed. Congratulations.
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- Triton
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Maybe check out this link. It's one way of doing it. http://pisangs.blogspot.ca/2010/04/low-cost-diy-pcb-drill.html
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Pete When I used the filler it was quite the mess. I thought to myself, oh no what have I done. I tried to wipe off as much as I could and then I had to let it dry. After it dried I sanded the deck with some 100 grit and then some 220 grit. That still wasn't very good, as you said it did smear, so I had to sand it even more using my homemade toothbrush sander. I sanded each plank that way, first with 100 grit and then with 220. I thought that I would try the filler method as it has been mentioned before that this can be done, but it is a method that I think I will not use again unless it is in a pinch. It's just that I don't have a Pin Vise or any small drill bits or a draw plate to make bamboo treenails at this time. There is no real hobby shop in my city and I would have to travel about a 120 Km to get some supplies. One day I will, but meanwhile I'll just have to use what I can find here. If you enlarge the pictures I think you can see that the filler did smear, but oh well I learn as I go. But, I do think it looks like a very used deck and it is my first build. Plus, nothing was perfect way back then anyway. Right?
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I see on YOUTube that you can clean the rust off with electrolysis. It seems like a pretty effective way of doing it. Has anyone tried it?
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I have finally finished the Lower deck now. I used a homemade punch to mark all of the treenails and then filled them with a ebony wood filler and sanded the deck and then applied 4 coats of Antique Oil. I think it turned out okay. I placed two treenails on every plank between the butt planks, maybe overkill, but I still think it worked out okay. Could have been a bit neater though.
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I picked up a few tools at a garage sale for $5.00 Canadian, but they are a bit rusty ( well a lot rusty ) and I was wondering if anyone has a solution to remove the rust. They are a few files ( round, rasp etc. and a hammer and a couple of drill bits). I have heard that using CLR will work, but if anyone has any other ideas that would be great. Thanks
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Welcome aboard. You're off to a great start. I will be building the full build Triton once I finish the Triton X Section. So, I will be following your build closely. By the way I love your framing jig. Can you tell me where you got the rulers with all the marking on them? They are great and just what I need to set up for my build in order to set my frames correctly.
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Thanks Mark and Russ. Method 1 does sound like the best way to go. I take it that the brass sheaves were turned on a lathe. Could you tell me what size of brass rod was used? I haven't done any lathe work for many years, but look forward to doing it once again. I don't have a lathe at this time to do it right now, but I will be looking around to get one in the near future. Besides, I will need the lathe to turn the barrels for the cannons also. Meanwhile, I can work on other things like making the ladders and pillars and treenailing the lower deck and such.
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I'm almost at the point on the build where I will be making the MainSail Top Bitts and was wondering if the sheaves were made of brass or wood. I see on some models it looks like wood has been used for the sheaves, but in other models brass has been used for the sheaves. Maybe it's my eyes, but if brass was used, then how did they mount them inside the post? Am I wrong? I don't see anything in the pdf files on the MainSail Top Bitts that mention brass. Can someone give me some guidance on how to make them. Thanks
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Grant I gave your way a shot at it, but I preferred to do in individually. Worked out better for me that way. The following pictures show the lower deck planking being installed. I used the 1,3,5,2,4, pattern and 100 lb. weight black paper and it looks okay to me, although the joints never really aligned with the ledges and beams. Oh well. learn as I go. I have not decided on how to treenail the lower deck as yet. Maybe use filler as I don't have a draw plate to make any bamboo treenails and I didn't like the way the toothpick inner hull turned out. Toothpicks look to big and I should have had two instead on one. You can see in the picture how far out my framing is by looking at the planking on the right side of the deck. I have learned a good lesson on this build. "MAKE SURE THE FRAMES ARE ALIGNED AND SPACED PROPERLY WHEN YOU FIRST START" or problems will be compounded further down the build. Next build will be better. Further sanding is required on the lower deck before treenailing and continuing. It's all a learning process at this stage and on this my first build.
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