Cleat

This is what the box shows what can be made.

I'm glad I came across this log.  I was frustrated with planking during my first build.  I found a reference to the kit and I'm considering it for my second build.  I'll be referencing your build. 

I painted the water line red and the rub rail bumpers chrome.  Masking the areas was trickier than I expected.  I repainted the water line three times and it got kinda thick.   I also painted the bright parts but I haven't mounted them yet.  I used the mirror chrome that usedtosail recommended and that stuff looks pretty good. 

I haven't figured out how to deal with the chrome trim decal for the windshield.  The decal is gray, I'm considering painting it chrome but I don't see how I can work with it I paint it.  I might look into foil.  I forgot the foot steps for the deck so I have to work those too.

18 hours ago, Moab said:

I’ve made most/all these mistakes many, many times.

After my first experience planking I decided my next kit will be chosen to work on planking.  Do you have a recommendation for a kit to help me learn planking?

1 minute ago, Moab said:

What is tru Oil?...Moab

Tru Oil is used on gun stocks and knife handles.  I used it on a couple of fish filet knife kits and I'm working on an Ulu knife. 

(In the picture you can see that I collected the saw dust on the instructions which I used to make a slurry to fill gaps). 

I installed the rub rails, bumpers, and coning; it was messy.

Mistake # 7

I didn’t read the manual.  The step describing the application of the half round styrene rod material should be done before finishing the wood.  I didn’t do that.

After making a CA glue mess on the finish and my fingers I sanded down to wood to apply the half round styrene rod material.  I use CA glue to finish wood when turning pens; CA glue doesn’t stick to the pen part bags so I used a couple bags to help position the material before I hit it with accelerator to instantly cure the glue.  Once I came up with a better process, I managed to glue the rub rail on the edge of the deck and the bumpers. 

The perfectionist in me wasn’t happy with parts of the job but the practical side said it was good enough.  I’m not willing to try to fix my mistakes because I might make it worse (which is what I should do for the learning experience) but I don’t want to spend unlimited time on the task.  

The instructions say to install the cockpit coning on top of the deck.  The real boat has it on the inside edge and I decided to give it a try.  I used a hair dryer to see if the coning would take the inside turn, it worked. 

Next up is to paint the rub rail and bumper chrome and paint the cockpit coning the seat color. 

I’m trying to decide if I want to paint the bottom.  All of the real boats have the bottoms painted (I assume for water protection reasons) and the color is mostly copper but some use the color of the interior.  I’m also trying to determine what color to paint the water line.  White is the most popular but the interior color is used sometimes; I'm considering red if I don’t paint the bottom. 

The copper foil looks good.  Where do you get it?

I've started to learn the air brush with a Badger Patriot, California Air compressor, and Createx paint.  I'm also looking into a spray booth.  I came across a video of a Master B400 portable spray booth.  It is self contained and folds up for compact storage.  

It turned out nice.  I like the detail of the the foot steps.  What did you use for the case, and how did you cut it?

It looks great with the various hardware fittings installed.  Kinda like jewelry for a Chris-Caft. 

Thanks, I didn't notice the Edit button. 

I started my first build but I noticed when I copied my title the first letter was missing.   Can I correct it or does it take an administrator.

I switched to a thinned Tru Oil (50%) to build up the finish.  I wet sanded the mahogany with the Tru Oil to create a slurry to help fill gaps.  I’m applying many, many, many coats of the Tru Oil to build up the finish. 

This is as far as I have gotten.  Next up is fitting the seats and I'm trying to decide how to approach adding coaming around the cockpit.   I need to get some chrome paint for the hardware.

Customization #2

The standard seats are just flat wood.  I modified a plank to simulate a tuck and roll look of real seats.

The instructions suggested using parchment paper to glue the deck pieces together, that worked well.  I assembled the cockpit panels and mounted the deck. 

Mistake #5

I sanded the deck too much and removed some of the plank etching.  I used a woodburning tool with an Exacto head to reapply the plank etching.

Mistake #6

I installed the floor of the cockpit at an angle. I discovered that when I test fitted the seat.

Customization #1

I planked the transom because when I broke the stock piece because it didn’t fit properly and I didn’t like the look.  I also added a light piece to emulate a detail a real boat has. 

I used thinned boiled linseed oil (50%) to darken the wood to help hide my mistakes.  The BLO also penetrates the wood.  I used scrap pieces to fill in gaps and collected saw dust.  I used the BLO create a slurry with the saw dust to also fill the gaps.

Mistake #4

I didn’t follow the instructions.  I should have planked the sides with mahogany before the bottom.

I thought my experience with the sub planks would make the mahogany planking easier, I was wrong.  I thought the planks would follow the contour of the hull but they wanted to change direction.  I realized I was thinking in terms of a cylinder, not a compound curve.  I chose to install the top plank first to ensure one plank looked right.  I kludged together the remaining planks.  I’m embarrassed to show this picture. 

Mistake #3

I got a bit over zealous when sanding and shaping the bow.  I should have snuck up on it and kept the dark edge intact. 

I reshaped the bow using the piece from the keel cutout.  The bow of a real boat has a bulbous nose.  I didn’t get it completely right; I was concerned how the mahogany could be applied to the shape.

I cut chunks of the balsa included with the kit to fit the voids.  I used a saw, files, and sandpaper to shape the bow.  That was a fun step.

I have never bent wood before so I found a video to find out what to do.  I soaked the ends of a couple pieces in warm water for about 20 minutes then used an iron to work the bend.  I inadvertently creased the bend with the edge of the iron but that turned out to help the bend.  I’d clamp the planks until they dried.  Then I’d glue and clamp them again.  I noticed that I created different arcs on each plank and I ended up with uneven planking (yellow glue is a structural component in my build).  

Mistake #2

When I test fitted the transom it broke, I should have filed the slot to locate the transom for a looser fit.

Planking the bottom was straight forward but I should have trimmed the planks before planking the sides.

I installed the chine.  I discovered that rubber bands work well as clamps.

The frame assembly is straight forward but I managed to make a mistake. 

Mistake #1

I didn’t fully seat one of the bulkheads (I discovered the problem when I stated planking).  I had to sand down the top and add material to the bottom. 

For my first wooden boat kit I chose the Dumas Chris-Craft 1956 Capri.  I wanted a modest kit to learn the basics and the kit offers a good introduction.  I really like wooden inboard boats – they have a special sound.  

As a woodworking hobbyist I’m discovering that I’m not used to working with small parts.  Since this is my first build, I am including my mistakes. 

The Dumas kit is complete, they say there are more than enough planks (I have extra pieces after planking).  The drawing is very helpful and the instructions provide enough instruction to complete the kit (I’d like to see more tips).  I use the plastic base as a place to store the project as I work on it.  I’ll replace the plastic base with a wooden one that emulates a slow wake. 

On 4/20/2020 at 6:59 PM, usedtosail said:

Hello Cleat. Welcome to the build. To answer your questions, the aluminum planking clamp is something that I made from 2 pieces of aluminum angle iron I got from Home Depot. I cut them to about 14 inches in length, then drilled holes through one and tapped the other one so I could screw in those screws that you can hand tighten, also from Home Depot (I forget what they are called). The Spaz Stix has a black spray that you use before the chrome. It is supposed to make it easier to see spots you may have missed with the chrome. You can really use any color under the chrome. Are you going to add a build log? I would love to see your project.

Thanks for the information.  I need to order some chrome paint.  I've started a document of my notes and organizing pictures to create a build log.