Jump to content

stuglo

Members
  • Posts

    701
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by stuglo

  1. I'm visiting Berlin in 2 weeks time. I would welcome suggestions for tool/ model shops to visit and anywhere to purchase wood. I will be in the area of Museum Island, but the wife is accommodating.
  2. I personally can't and avoid painting models. If I could approach the skill of Kevin, I might change my mind.
  3. From time to time you show some new tools that you acquired when visiting NYC. As some of my family will be visiting there next month, could you suggest some useful stores to explore so that I can choose my presents. Thanks.
  4. You've reawakened my interest in this tool. What would you suggest as the basic burrs and accessories based on your experience ?
  5. 2 essentials for any modeler: --you can source EXPERIENCE on this website, but I am still searching for PATIENCE
  6. Welcome. We have a local Israeli model boat building club. We would be most happy for you to join us. The next meeting is this Friday. Looking forward to hearing from you.
  7. "am working on the handrails. It's all done with 0.2 mm black monofilament line," Was it easy to fit the CONTAINMENT rails after handrails, or better to do these first? Your build is an excellent one. My painting with spray cans was OK for the hull but excessive for the deck fittings. Probably my inexperience and lack of patience.
  8. I also remade it. Some much of this kit is brilliant, that I wonder if some of the simple stuff (mainly wood) was designed by someone else!
  9. In fairness, I must update these comments, because as I proceed with the build, the PE and plastic parts are really compensating for the initial frustration. The amount of work and expertise that must have gone into the planning details is phenomenal. The issue with the wood should be easily rectified; then the kit will be perfect.
  10. I'm spending more time correcting the wooden parts than I would have if I made them from scratch. The design is really good, the the fun in the project drains away with the frustration and annoyance. The old kits I built were far less inaccurate. ? Imperfect or inappropriate use of modern technology + lack of consideration for the purchaser/builder?
  11. No lining, just a block on the side of the hull not planked. Main problem is angle for drilling. An angled blank for direction and a big prayer.
  12. I see you have fixed the 1st planking before the decks. Is this in the plans because mine says to complete the planking after the decks are fitted? Your way seems easier and better.
  13. Finishing my Swan Class Sloop Mast Wedges, stubs for the masting, and a figure head. I purchased the Lion figure (boxwood?) online from PRC. Required some adaptation for fitting. Not one of the class as listed, but I read somewhere that a generic lion figure was sometimes used even when the ship’s name was something else. Well, 30 months, about 3000 hours, 500+ postings. What a voyage of discovery. There were times, particularly at the beginning, that I wondered if I’d even depart the harbour. Of course, without the practicum TFFM books , Dan Vardas blogs and Kevin’s Videos, I would have been sunk many times. Thank you all. Thanks to the Bosun (wife) for tolerating my taking a spare bedroom (and sometimes a second one), disappearing for hours, making noise in the early hours of the morning, and turning a blind eye to the expense of the new tools that I acquired. My grandchildren, perhaps hoping to inherit the ship, are even more attentive than usual. Like a good book that you regret when finishing, so is this project. I have more on the shelf, but will return to a Swan, perhaps with reduced innards, but fully planked and rigged. I have volume 4 TFFM and enough cherrywood stock. And now for something completely different (Monty Python)---- The BISMARK - Amarti kit.
  14. The Stern Lantern At first glance, intimidating, but with the usual TFFM breaking it down into stages, was do-able. The major hurdle- Munions and Door ( a hexagonal construct tapering towards the base)- were bought as part of the photo etched addition. The main difficulty is bending along the grooves between the sections. I spray painted with aerosol as I find it gives a better finish than “blackening” liquids. The inside is supposed to be red but I omitted this detail. Beneath is a thin Lower Rim. A symmetrical hexagon 13.15 mm across. I made it from a 0.18mm thick brass strip using the TFFM pattern.(A frame from etched parts from an old kit. I find cutting to shape difficult, so after roughing it out, use the band sander.) Epoxy to Lamp for rigidity and spray paint black. Roof. Thickness given as 3.18 but the drawing is more like 3.6mm Looking at my plans, I went with this. Used blank 16mm sq. and as instructed, drilled a small (.7) hole at 14.5deg.near the center. Cutting out the largest and smallest part of the patter, made a pinhole in the center, and threaded one above and the other below the blank. ENSURE a side above and below, aligned and sand to the pattern ALLOWING FOR THE “BULGES” as required.(also slanting aftwards). I used a small hand held band sander and it worked easier than I thought possible. Genius of the author of TFFM on display again. The Vent and Vent Top - are shaped from some scrap soft metal alloy, and coloured black. The Lights Cut from 0.26mm plastic sheet. I find though that even the smallest amount of glue gives vapors that cause opacity. ADVICE sought for the future. The Base. Similar technique to the Roof. Blank 11.5x6.5 and 4.25mm thick. Drill at 14.5deg, pin aligned pattern above and below, and sand to shape. Stool and Crank. I simplified these by making a thin rim with my brass strip, and combined the Stool with the part the Stool sits on (? is that bit called a tang). Again, something left over was exactly what I needed. Eyebolts either side of the Roof, and on the Capping Rail, above the Counter timber. Connected by Support Rods - 0.26mm for which I used covered wire, Central hole in Taffarel for the ensemble at the height shown on the plan.
  15. Console Brackets. Not happy with my work. Made some modifications, but may still rework them.
  16. The Lower Finishing. Made in 2 parts, separated by the Lower Finishing Rail. An Upper Counter, depth 3mm. Rim as molding narrowing sharply from the Lower Stool. (Initially used a scraper from Artesena Latina, but this damaged the upper surface, so just beveled by sanding). Lower Finishing Rail- 0.8mm thick, slightly proud of the lower rim of the Upper Counter. Lower Counter. Took a blank 35x10x8mm. The upper surface from the given patten, slightly smaller than the overlying Rail. The downward narrowing is more acute aft. Inward surface shaped to match ship’s side. The Drop - made separately. This is pierced by a discharge tube from the Head inside the captain’s cabin. Console Brackets. Adapted from the pattern in TFFM
  17. Upper Finishing. A very varied structure. Often flamboyantly carved, but often simplified on models. After shaping my block to fit on the Upper Stool, I sanded the curves, up/down and athwartship,in a rather arbitrary fashion. The decorative crown (another leftover) and small blacked chain to represent carved vines (rather fancifully).
×
×
  • Create New...