coxswain

Here are the 3 gaffs and a boom, being painted. Residing on the centerline, it makes sense to install them before the various running gear.

Here's the fish tackle set up. I believe it was used to help pull the anchor up to the catheads.

Here's a shot of the main backstays. From left to right, the sizes (diameter inches) are:
.010
.015
.020
.025
 
The shrouds are .030
 

It's been a while since I lasted posted on Winnie. A good bit of progress has occurred. To begin with, I completed framing at the stern with the addition of the horizontal filler pieces and final fairing. I then added the lower counter planking, using the laser cut pieces. After that, I did the first layer of planking for the wales and black strake. The wale planking was begun by using a  batten to mark the line of the bottom of that planking. Lastly, I painted the gunports red, in preparation for doing the upper planking..
 
The upper planking will be the next order of business..
 
Bob

I am hoping for some input Nic or from others here with experience with solid hulls.  I am having trouble with fairing the bow.  I am afraid to take any more off of the forward portion of the bow.  I hope from the images here and above you can see the gap near the bow.  The gap is smaller then when I started but I am struggling to bring that  fully in.  It could be the cardboard template, it does have some flex.  The stern looks good now after a lot of rasping and sanding.  I have placed a level on the flat area where the keel will be glued to illustrate.  I am thinking perhaps I need to shave this down more on the forward portion to correct my problem.  I did do a bit with a thumb plane but not sure if I should take any more off.  I got a little carried away at the stem with the disc sander so I may be a little short in overall length now so I am hesitant to take any more from the leading edge of the bow.  I hope these pictures will show what I am trying to say.  Perhaps it is good enough and I can just make further adjustments  when I make and fit the keel pieces. However, I have learned sometimes these kind of errors can come back to haunt me later if I don't get it right now.
 
Any thoughts?

My daughters high chair her craps everywhere 

The holes I've cut are to allow small leds so cabin windows and rear cabin windows will  be lit up to simulate candle light inside 

An alternative method for marking out the gun ports is to trace the gun ports from the Constructo plan on kitchen greaseproof paper, then tape and pin the tracing paper to the hull, then use a 0.8mm drill bit in my Dremel to mark each corner of the gun ports.  Reverse the tracing paper to use the same tracing to do both sides of the hull.
 
Before using the Constructo plan for gun port positions, I checked carefully with a side view image of the HMS Prince shipwright model in the UK science museum.  As far as I can tell, the Constructo plans are very good.
 
The easiest way for me to remove the 10 mm square of planking for each gunport was to first drill a 5 mm hole in the approximate center, next use a small Dremel cutoff wheel to mark all 4 sides, then use a mini saw blade to enlarge the 5mm hole leaving about 0.5mm of wood at each corner.  The final surplus material was removed with a square section needle file.
 
Constructo instruct the kit builder to make a frame from 1mm by 2mm stripwood and stick it inside each 10mm by 10mm gunport.  This reduces the size of the opening to 8mm by 8mm which is too small an opening to be true to scale, and into which a 10mm by 10mm gunport cover is never going to fit.  Closed gunport covers should "fit" flush with the hull.  Also there is no visible "window frame" around each gunport in the ship wright model or in paintings of "the Prince".
 
What did I do to solve this?
 
I slightly enlarged each gunport opening to 11mm by 11mm.  Then I used some 0.5 mm thick deck planking strips to line each gunport - meaning that the final opening size was 10mm by 10mm.  The thin strips are barely visible in a side view.  The sides of each gunport are painted red in all English ships.
 
In the last picture, with some red and black painting done, the "halo" around upper gunports is bare wood onto which the circular gilt decor will be stuck using cyano later. 

Post 44

Bits and pieces

Side steps

These are plain affairs that will stand a little enhancing with extra profiling. The kit items do however include the hand holds.

Two outboard steps are indicated although I note that four are shown on the Marshall painting.

Same problem here as with Cheerful; it looks like there ought to be additional steps.

Two steps may just pass muster with the open drift arrangement, effectively an extra step, but the distance between the upper of two steps and the closed in Drift rail is the same as the distance taken up by both two lower steps.


3862(2)
For this reason, I have decided to fit three outboard steps, the added third step being fixed just above the sheer rail.

Inboard steps: the kit doesn’t provide these, whereas the Alert book shows a three-step inboard entry ladder between deck and Drift rail.

With my current set up a ladder would cover the shot rack and interfere with gun side tackles for the second from aft gun.

Still, I think there should be steps, so it looks like re-visiting the Rough-tree rail and shot rack.


3630
I identified the problem as the hance coming too far forward on the Drift-rail, preventing the ladders clearing the side tackles.

Worth mentioning that use of pva allows for painless removal of the rail, quite a delicate fitting, which would not have been the case had I used ca.

I keep use of ca to the absolute minimum on my builds, there is often a need to do modifications and ca tends to make the wood brittle and using acetone to loosen ca can be a messy business.

 

3852
The hance has been modified, the shot rack moved aft, and the inboard ladders installed.


3864(2)

3860(2)
Layout looks more logical to my eye now.

Not yet ready to fix the deck fittings but it’s been a while since I reviewed the layout.


3839(2)

3840(2)

3845(2)

3843

3842

3838
Time to move on.

B.E.

12/12/2019
 
 
 

Last night I finished the Main backstays and installed the spreader bars on the fore and main.

In case anyone is interested, here's Part II of the Cochrane video:
 
 

thanks for coments and likes
 
the construction of the main dekk cabin is on its way , for this i use evegreen styro yust the main dekk cabin, 
wood vil be used for the topp dekk construction.
at the rear you can se the 2 sleeping quaters and a sallon and the doors opening .
later i wil glue some wood panels etc on the wall, beds ,table etc....
at the aft i wil do the same.
the hole construction is loos and not glued on the ship.
i markt the windows , doors etc so i need to take this out to.
the main dekk construction wil get simulated rivvits using the same metod i did with the hull (thats because this part was made of steel plates.
the topp dekk was wood.
 
svein erik

I have reached the stage that I do not like so there is not much to show. 
Before I can fix the position of the spreadsail yard I need to prepare 2 things. 
1. I need to do the top half of ratlines until I still can lower the yard. It will be lot more complicated with the yard fixed in position. (I hate doing ratlines!) 
2. I need to prepare topsail so I could secure all the rigging in the center of the deck by the mast (it would be also very dificult to get there once lower ratlines and "outside running rigging" is in place). And I'm also not a fan of this task
 
So the progress is very slow now. I have installed lower and upper Sheer battens and prepared few ratlines, that is all for now. 

Got a chance to do some more backstays. I'm spending about 1/2 hour on each one. Foremast is finished.

Dry-fitting some of the details...

Made a few side projects before continueing with the planking. Everything is precut making it very easy to work.

First planking done and I have just had the kit abit more than a week. What I like about Speedy is that Chris have made many new design solutions that really make it easier and faster to build. A few observations so far:
1) Pre-made rabbit to support the first planking. 
2) Laser cut holes from "the wrong side" so you dont need to measure
3) The precut walls comes in 2 pieces 
4) MDF skeleton with many very close bulkheads
5) Only identified weakness so far are these 4 very fragile pieces that easily break during assembly. The would perhaps be made in a different mtrl than MDF?
 
Now its time to start with the 2nd planking in boxwood. Here he has also clear markings on where the first board should be placed so nothing to measure... 🙂

I got a little bit done today. my templates are a bit flimsyer then I hoped but they will do the job.  The stern is coming in nicely.  The bow still has a way to go.  I used a carving knife to take off most of the excess wood.  Then I switched to a Dremal tool on low speed to get things closer.  The basic shape is there I think.

A small update and a "Why-have-I-been-so-slow" excuse.
 
Hello all. Since August I started feeling a nasty pain in my left thumb that prevented me from doing almost anything with my left hand. Shortly after, I started developing a "trigger finger" condition in my right index.
I tried different alternative options before undergoing surgery, but nothing worked. I wasn't able even to hold my guitar, much less playing it. My chops went downhill terribly. So I decided there was nothing else to do but surgery. I had it on Sept. 17th.
Here the scars barely noticeable now


I wasn't able to do many things during the recovery time, and my mood went to floor level.
 
I finally and slowly began working again in my guitar and also in my ship. Here is a small update on my build.
 
Here is a general view. Shrouds in the mizzen mast are completed, as well as those in the lower main. 5 pairs still to go.

Some details of the ongoing rigging. I am following strictly the instructions order. Not sure how wise this ultimately be
 
This were very difficult to make,,,





And my super high tech jig to make coils


Result:

Thank you all for visiting. I feel I'm on track again!!!
 
Best regards!
 
 
 
 

Hello all, mates.
More progress on the bowsprit. My God! This thing deserves a build log all on its own!!! lol
 
Photos are self explanatory, I think. Still, if you have any questions, by all means...shoot!!!
 

Small update as of Nov 26 18
 
Working with Chuck's serving machine. Definitely a lot faster.

 
All my tropes receive the "lighter flame treatment" Some people use wax to eliminate fuzz. In my opinion this method only "disguise" the fuzz, but it's still there. With the fire the fuzz is gone... period... forever.
 

 
Here is approx 1.30 mts of served rope.
 

 
Progress on the bowsprit. This is the most complicated part of masting.
 

 
Thanks for watching. Will add more photos soon!!!!

Thank you everyone for your words of encouragement. Getting to the fun bit now putting together the little pieces and setting up the masts.
 

Noticed the attachment for the lower and top mizzen masts was off by a little over 1mm.
 
after sanding that section down, I was finally able to fit it snugly.
 

 
I've decided to keep the lower masts painted same colour as the hull without the black bands based on something I read that Nelson had ordered them painted that way to identify friendlies just before the Battle of Trafalgar.
 
 

Well that was fun.
 
Haven't glued on the masts yet in case I might need to remove them for rigging or space is needed for rigging the upper deck cannons, plus they need to be aligned at some stage. Also left the yards alone for the same reason.
 
The main mast fit was tight and popped the upper deck adhesion to the hull, had to carefully wiggle it into position while holding the deck, and after that, I used Phatic glue to reseal the deck and hull connection (hence the rubber banding).
 
Phatic glue is my newest friend. It doesn't dissolve enamel paint like the Tamiya cement and has reasonable adhesion. I'd recommend this for any plastic bits that would be easier to paint on the sprue before attaching them to the model.
 

Given the scale of this kit I think you've made a  great job of the stern detailing. Those  pilasters are a pain even on the Heller Victory.
 Way back I did build the Revell version of Victory, which is slightly smaller, as a practice build for the Heller 1:100 using the Hackney book.
You may be interested in the relevant sizes of these two kits.

This is version 1 of the Heller Victory which is now long gone, replaced by version 2 which I still have on display.
Building the Airfix kit will give you valuable experience for taking on the 'beast'.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 

Might have found a solution to the missing dummy cannons after all...
 
Noticed the heads of the toothpicks I had been using to mix paint with are a near perfect fit! Will try glueing this on with super 'Phatic glue. This glue seems to work better than tamiya cement for plastic/wood to paint adhesion and dries without leaving any noticeable residue.

Hi, Definitely make use of the Noel C L Hackney book. I built the Victory Airfix kit 30 years ago and it is still on display, Actually in the lounge at the moment. You can see her in the back ground of my latest build.
 
His 'order of dressing the masts and yards' is what I still use today. The step by step method makes sure you get blocks in place at the right time so not to make it more difficult later. Combined with the James Lees book I use it for any age sailing warship.