coxswain

Hi 
Here am working the rigging, there is not many left to do, I expect to get it done soon.
Thanks 

Update - all 10 swivel guns mounted,along with the stern lantern,flag pole, & anchors. Was not able to shape the flags well as they are stiff as a board.
 

 

 

 
Mark

Good morning.

OK,
I finished the Speedy prototype model half an hour ago, and have taken some quick pics. Now I have a lot of PC based work to do, box artwork, plans, instructions and parts list.
 
I had the Alert stern patterns re-designed and re-cut, a pic of one set is included here, these will be included in all new kits.

Today I did some sanding
 I think it  looks a bit better now. I fixed most of the bulkhead-tips. I had to cut loose one bulkhead and center it properly. So for folk, who glue the bulkheads: Mark the center on top of the bulkheads so you can check better if it is really accurate centered. Otherwise the outer line of bulkheads dance in and out. Every Millimeter out of the center will cause problems if you now what I mean

 

Thanks guys, your kind words are very much appreciated.
 
I should have the Speedy prototype model fully complete by the end of the weekend.
 
I do have another Speedy hull, with pear planking done, perhaps I will do another as Flirt in the future, with white hull below waterline and earlier rigging layout.
 
I quite like frigates, and plan a 32 (Amazon), 38 (Saucy Arethusa) and 44 gun (Indie) after Bristol.

Moving along with the "extremely delicate" insertion of the rear torpedoes module. Delicate because we have the commands of the rudder to insert, the rear torpedo tube and the two propeller shafts. Before it, I had to install the rear deck light and wire it. Again, no coming back is possible, without damaging the bulkhead. I verified that both propellers are turning as they are supposed to (contra-rotations in the proper direction):
 
So, we basically have the two ends of the submarine pretty much completed.

I broke the plastic railing surrounding the rear deck light on one side. I am going to replace these plastic parts by brass wires shaped and soldered. This stuff is supposed to withstand the tension of the lines coming from the sail and the plastic part will not resist the rest of the construction. I also need to find a solution to hide the ugly couplers between the shaft and motors. In retrospect, I wish I had not cut so low...but I wanted to show the torpedo resting underneath. We'll see.

Propellers, rudders and diving planes. I wish brass props could be provided either by Trumpeter or by RCsubs. The Revell folks at 1/72 have all these goodies available on the grey market.

It feels almost real...

Lots of wires starting to pile up: Blue and white for the rear deck light and four wires coming out of the rear module for the motors and the lights.


Yves
 
 

So I'm moving on to attaching the various blocks etc. to the mainmast. I decided to put each set of blocks into its own holding cup. That's quite a lot of cups!
 

Another update - the mizzen lateen yard is now in place & the sail rigged. The kit provided black beads for the parrels,but I decided to use some bronze colored ones from the bead store.  The main topgallant backstays are now done also - I had to wait until now to do all the topgallant backstays so I could get my hands in to the belaying points for all the other lines.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Mark

EXPOSURE

Not much to show. I'm working on the Guns. One line is ready. 

All of the gunports are located and the dummy gun blocks are placed. Locating the ports was fairly easy since they all butt up against a bulkhead. I added planks that follow the deck lines to mount the blocks to. I also noticed that if I want to keep most of the ports open with protruding gun barrels, there are not enough guns supplied. They figure on only having about half of them open. I do have a good supply of gun barrels that are similar in my stash. I will use those.

Next up is to bevel the fore and aft bulkhead ends and begin the first layer of hull planking. A hull this size that also has a complex curved stern and a bluff bow will take a considerable time to plank.

Vince P.

Hi Chuck, I am just trying that.

I printed the bulkheads again and tried to find out, what happened. There are two or three things that sum up. The biggest is my inaccuracy, when I cleaned up the bulkheads after cutting them out. I often sanded the tips of the bulkheads too much.

That is 90% of the problem. The rest is about having not pushed it  down into position enough.
 
 
 
 

something is off on all of those bulokheads. The bulkheads should sit lower and right on the rabbet line.  Yours look like they are about 1/8" too high.  That will be a problem.  Its probably throwing off your fairing too.
 
have a look here. 
 
 
 
Chuck

I glued the bulkheads into position. That was the easy part. Then I startet sanding the bulkheads, that appears to be the challenging part. I am not totally happy with the result so far, I need to go over it again. 

One or two bulkheads jump a little bit back behind the line of the others.  I have to see, wether I glue something in the  gap or sand the others down.

Thank you all for the inspiration. I will use it once I have the material for rigging. Meanwhile I took a picture of the components of gun carriage (breeching rope with eyelets is still missing) this is what is in the kit. Once I decide on the tackles, I will have to add more eyelets. 

@kirill4 Hi mate,
yes those 4 coils on the photo are ropes supplied with the kit the one I tested on the tiller tackles was thread Gutermann 100%PES in colour 868. I have used several sizes and shades to make ropes on Royal Caroline and was very happy with the result. I have already found the source where to order. I have order Gutermann MARA 220 in shade 868 (I really like this colour for running rigging). I think this size should be thin enough to create nice thin rope from 3 threads. The delivery time is longer 2-3weeks as they do not have it in stock but that should be fine as there are plenty wood work on AVOS still to do. thanks for the links, these are some lovely looking ships This is example of my own ropes using Gutermann thread. 868 shade is used for deadeyes lanyard. It is little bit more brown in reality. 

Good day,
Dear Peta_V,
Ah,...now I see,that ropes which You used , it was supplied together with kit...?
in such case, looks like/could I guess/ there are sizes of the ropes correct only...according to the model rigging plan,
but I think( looking at the foto with supplied ropes) they coudn' t be used on the model straight from the box (on the foto,  lay of the ropes looks too loose, and  color too shining)I think , this supplied ropes need to be "processed" a little before use.
#
probably need to be rewinding,to get more tight lay...as example refer to the Gregory 's foto with ropes,which are looks right in appearance and color...may be it will be easy to make new ropes ,correct in size and lay from the begining? than try to correct supplied ropes?
recently I ve found good staff , I think it is very convinient to use it :for making ropes any size we need for the small scale model - this is Gutermann products...I bouth a few realy "big" coils of different size...it is serie "scala" threads N #  200;240;360,
which is kind of "mono" thread and could be winding in any direction when making your own ropes...I found them in this shop - https://legus39.ru/products.php?category_id=44
than combining already made ropes from this threds  and use different thread No ...we can make ropes of different sizes we need...
there are also treads serie "tera"...which is also good for making ropes,but they less interesting because they are already made as ordinary thread, and not so easy for making small ropes...
#
color...
personaly I prefer to use white...or bright thread colors and later ,when rope made, to stain or paint them in color I need...actualy we need only two color for rope painting...
I use acrylic paint, made mix of bright and dark colors for painting running and stay rigging...but better result could be obtained using artist oil paints deluted in thinner - reffer as example to the works of this high rank modeller Dmitry Shevelev...
https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=28865&start=330
https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=71037
 
how looks his artystic paints painted ropes
there is translated text from D.Sh. advices regarding ropes painting techniques
...Re: How is this done? Dmitry Shevelev »Mon Jan 16, 2017 13:24 Good afternoon, Oleg! I paint white threads with art oil paints. I’m breeding a half-liter jar. I mix a tube of paint with liquid oil. On a standing rigging is the Leningradskaya Umbra. On running to this paint I add ocher. I paint by pulling the thread through a jar or a poured puddle of paint. Then I pull the thread through the glove several times and hang it up to dry. You can use it in a day....
 
All the best
Kirill
 

Just a few updates....Like I said earlier...I've been so preoccupied with so many home type jobs I have had no real time to work on the GR....I can only assume I will be back in the shipyard this fall.  I do have a friend who I've asked to make the case for the GR.
 
But for your entertainment here are a few pic of what I have been doing.  I finished up the front porch and veranda/French door/roof for the front of the house...complete front overhaul and I just finished the cedar decking.
 
I began by installing all the new windows and ended up with the deck.
 
Next....I worked on my second hobby and converted one of my dental chairs into a binocular chair to hold my large 21X127 custom binoculars.  I also built the rotating table the chair sits on.
 
I, now have a couple of trees to fall and cut up......
 
I'm so exhausted.
 
Rob

Back from vacation, and found the extra copper plates waiting for me.  Took me a while amidst post-vacation catch up tasks to finish off the coppering of the hull.
 
That brought me to finishing off the keel, bow and stern.  I had planned to use copper tape for that, and as things turned out, it worked really well.  I've attached pictures showing pre-taping rough sections, and then the finished product.
 
Found there was a learning curve in handling the tape to minimize crinkles, but they show up no matter what you do, so I'm glad I used the plates for most of the hull, and equally glad I used tape to finish off the edges.
 
Now I can go back and pick up the sequence items I skipped waiting for the extra plates to arrive.
 
Regards,
David

Nils,  I see you have built Pamir.   One of our members (Ship modelling society of Victoria.) served on Pamir for many years.
He visits NZ (where she operated from) often for reunions but I think not for much longer. He is a wealth of knowledge.
He still holds his masters.
 
 
Allan

Regarding the rigging, I have been working on getting my ropewalk to produce very fine rope.
I have perfected getting it to wind two single strands giving a rope diameter of 0.2mm.
I think rayon is the best as it produces a thread with no fluff or fur.
1 strand x 2 =0.2mm
1 strands x 3 =0.3mm
1 strands x 4 =0.4mm
2 strands x 2 = 0.4mm  (1x4 looks better)
2 strand x 3 = 0.5mm
2 strands x 4 = 0.6mm
4 strands x 3 = 0.7mm
 
 
Allan

Sheaves' row nearly ready: 

Small update: I've prepared all details for sheaves which would be built  in bulwarks. It took some time to find proper 2.5mm turned-brass sheaves and some boxwood strips to make sandwich-style cases. I'm not very happy with cases - but after making about 20 - 25   - that's the best result I can achieve working "on a knee" with only Micromot 50  without a coordinate table. What I've learned is that I definitely need to upgrade my electric tool park: Proxxon Micromot 50 is a fine tool and DB 250 is a fine lathe too, but some operations do require micro-miller   like MF-70  and a table saw like KS-230 - so I am looking towards these tools or towards combine kit like Unimat 1.