Mahuna
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Everything posted by Mahuna
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Ed - Thanks for taking the time to answer my question. Your log is a great tutorial, and I'll be referring to it often as I start my own build. As you already said, though, the planning is extremely important and that is what I still need to learn. I wish I could have looked over your shoulder as you developed the plans for Young America. What a great experience that would have been. Frank- 3,607 replies
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A small FISKARS scissor (stainless steel, made in Finland) is excellent for what you're looking for. My wife uses one in sewing, and I was able to find one online for my own use. http://www2.fiskars.com/Crafting/Products/Scissors-Snips-and-Sharpeners/Detail-Scissors-No.-4#.UyiayVzxUUs Frank
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Ed, I'm continuing to learn as you go - this is a fantastic tutorial. I'm assuming you also used diagonals to set the position of the deck clamps - is this correct? Thanks, Frank
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I agree with Ed. Turbocad is a very useful tool and appears to have all of the functionality we need (especially when you see what Ed has been able to do with it). However, I just tried to accelerate my climb along the learning curve by purchasing the 'Training Video' that they offer for $49.99. Within 24 hours I've asked for my money back based on their 'Satisfaction Guarantee' - let's see if that's any more than a marketing phrase. The video was nothing more than someone running through the commands with no explanation of when, how, or why one would want to use one function vs the next. I'll continue the effort to learn this package, and I'm sure the time will be well spent (but my money wasn't!!) Frank
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Congratulations on ordering an excellent sander. When you see it you'll be pleased at how simple and precise it is. I don't think you'll need more instructions than what comes with it - the instructions mostly cover how to change the sanding disc. Frank
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Table Saw Blades and other bits and pieces
Mahuna replied to mtaylor's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I order my blades directly from Thurston: http://www.thurstonmfg.com/index.html They don't have an easy online ordering function, but will communicate and accept orders via email, and there's no minimum order amount as far as I know. Frank -
Bend cast metal parts
Mahuna replied to bogeygolpher's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I've used cast metal bird feet in my bird carvings, and they can be bent by warming them in boiling water, then CAREFULLY bending them to the position wanted. You might try this on your cast parts. Frank -
Hi Richard: Try this site: http://www.victornet.com/index.html Frank
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Sam (SRC) Thanks for mentioning the MM screwdriver sharpener. This might work, especially if I rig up another holder for water stones and use the Veritas angle setter, which I already have. I already have a similar tool on order from Highland Woodworking (much more expensive). I'm thinking that if it doesn't do the job I'll order the screwdriver sharpener and return the pricey one. Frank
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Does anyone have a good method of sharpening micro chisels that they could share? I use a honing guide for larger chisels, but it won't work for micro chisels. Frank
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End snippers, what can we use them for?
Mahuna replied to Modeler12's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Looks like it came from Micro-Mark. Here's the link: http://www.micromark.com/end-nipper,11459.html -
I've found that the best approach for me is to cut within about 1-2 mm of the line, then use a riffler to bring it down to the line (using a small vise to hold the plank also helps here). If my blade wanders, I still have room to the line. A sanding stick can work also, but I like the crisp edge we get by using a file. Takes a little patience, but the results are good. Frank
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Hi Ed: Looks like you've reached a very complex part of the work. I continue to be impressed by the solutions you develop. As an aside, after I read your comments about the Crothers book I looked for it online and found his book on Packets and Freighters of the 1850's. Since my goal is to build the Dunbrody the book is a wealth of knowledge for me (it better be, at the price!). Another benefit of following your build log - thank you! Frank
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Hi JB: Any airbrush will work with acrylics if the paint is properly thinned. Model Expo frequently has very good deals on airbrush/compressor combos. A friend of mine bought one and is very happy with the equipment. I use Badger and Aztec airbrushes, but you don't need to spend lots on a name brand if all you want to do is cover a fairly large area. An airbrush can be a wonderful tool if used properly, but can also be very frustrating if it's not kept clean or if the paint viscosity isn't correct. I would recommend reading about airbrushing (setup, use, cleaning, adjusting) before making the decision to buy one. This site has some very good information on airbrushing: http://howtoairbrush.com/airbrush-lessons/ Hope this helps, Frank
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Excellent advice. I would add: Always unplug the saw when changing blades. Never operate the saw after having alcohol - even one beer or one glass of wine. Use a wood block to keep the wood against the fence (see Jeff Hayes notes at http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation-3.php) and, as in anything else worthwhile, practice. In time you'll understand the saw's capabilities and limits, and which blade to use for different woods and thicknesses (I've burned a few blades before I learned that!) Enjoy! Frank
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what is the best way to produce realistic water and waves
Mahuna replied to shipworker's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
There are some limitations with this product that you should be aware of. I used it to form a 'pond' for a bird carving I created, and found that: 1. If the product is used to form a layer more than 1/4" deep, it shrinks and cracks when curing. My 'pond' wound up concave rather than flat. 2. It reacts to some metals. I used steel wool to simulate underwater plant life, and after several days the 'water' turned milky white. Neither of these should be issues for a ship model diorama if you're only using a thin coating over a neutral base. Frank -
On the second page, post number 17, Ed gives the answer: "The term clipper had been applied to fast sailing ships since the 18th century. The “clipper ship” was the larger full-rigged type that began to appear around 1840. The term “extreme” referred to a class of these ships that were designed with one overriding objective – speed. Carrying capacity, the traditional priority in the design of merchant ships, was virtually ignored in the “extreme” clipper designs." Frank
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Hi Rob: Interesting approach and beautiful work. Can you answer two things: 1. Can you give a brief description of your weathering technique for the bulwarks? 2. The forward wall of the deckhouse looks like individual planks. Did you create this by scoring a sheet of wood, or are they actual individual pieces? Thanks, Frank
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Hi Rob: I'm excited to follow your build. Hopefully you'll share lots of photos of your journey. Frank
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Hi Sherry - excellent carving. Whatever finish you decide to use, I would recommend doing a very light wash of a darker color, like a burnt umber, as a final step. This will settle into the deeper cuts and grooves in the carving, and will act like shadows to bring out the details of the carving. As always, experiment on some scrap until you get an effect you're happy with. Try the very light wash, then while it's still wet gently rub off the high spots so that there are some highlights. Frank
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Ed: The level of precision in your work continues to amaze me. There are so many techniques we can borrow - I love the way you use the string for centering the frame pairs - elegant simplicity. Frank
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If the copper is bare, liver of sulphur will blacken it. Frank
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Michael - very nice work! As a final step after shaping and sanding, I use a cloth wheel and jeweler's rouge on a 'dremel' device to polish the brass. Frank
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Hi Bruce: Have you been able to find the DMC Cordennet in the appropriate colors, or are you dying it? If so, what are you using for the dye? I have a wide range of sizes of the DMC, all in ecru, and will need to color the rope. Thanks, Frank
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Hi Neil and Bruce: Thanks for sharing your websites with us - you both have awesome talent. I'm enjoying seeing Bruce's work on Lightning, and I hope that Neil will share a build log with us soon. And I love Laura's wildlife work. I'm a bird carver, and think her birds are perfect! Frank
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