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Mahuna

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Everything posted by Mahuna

  1. Mahuna
    Looking real good Brian. I can see you hosting some of our meetings soon. Now it's time to go to Ikea and get some storage cabinets to organize the small stuff. Frank
  2. Mahuna
    Looking good Brian. I'm sure the little parts that get dropped will be bouncing all over. And lots of room for new tools. Frank
  3. Mahuna
    Hi Bob - I'll be following with the rest of your fans. Frank
  4. Mahuna
    Hi Ed: Just received notice from Seawatch Books that they are hoping to publish Young America sometime in the fall - this news is a great Christmas present and I thank you! I'll be looking forward to it. Happy Holidays! Frank
  5. Mahuna
    I use the Bombay brown and black from Hobby Lobby, and use Liquitex raw sienna and black - all are acrylic inks. I don't think the brand makes much difference if you find colors you want. Frank
  6. Mahuna
    Dave: I don't dye big batches of rope yet. So far I've only done a few strands at a time. That being said, I use an eye dropper to measure the proportions of the ink into a small jar big enough to take a coil of rope, then add an amount of isopropyl alcohol equal to the total amount of ink, mixing everything with a small stick. I wind the rope into a loose coil, submerge it in the ink for 5 minutes, then uncoil it and draw it through a paper towel to remove the excess moisture. Hang to dry. Bruce: You caught me! I meant to type Cordonnet. Here's a link to a source: http://store.knitting-warehouse.com/crochet-thread-dmc-cordonnet-cotton.html Frank
  7. Mahuna
    Hi Bruce: You can measure the diameter of thread or made rope by the following: 1. Make a measuring stick by cutting a 1/2 inch slot in a straight piece of wood. 2. Wind the rope tightly around the measuring stick, staying within the ½ inch slot. 3. Make sure the winds of the rope are snug against each other without overlapping. 4. Count the number of turns as you wind it. 5. The diameter is calculated with the following formula: Diameter = 1 / (# of Turns * 2) I use DMC Cebelia thread, and it is graded by size (10 is largest, 100 is smallest), and made up the attached chart by making and measuring rope. Hope this helps, Happy Holidays Frank RIGGING COLORS and SIZES.pdf
  8. Mahuna
    Hi Adriaan I have the Excalibur 16 inch and couldn't be happier with it. I don't think a larger bed is required for ship modeling, so a little money can be saved with the 16 inch. It's very smooth, quiet, and virtually vibration-free, and the body tilts, not the table. Blade changing and tensioning is very simple. I've found with power tools we need to get the best we can afford - otherwise we'll likely spend more money replacing a 'bargain' choice. Frank
  9. Mahuna
    Hi Brian Excellent planking - looking forward to seeing it in real life. Frank
  10. Mahuna
    Hi Rich: Your last post reminds me of what we used to say in my old job "if you don't want to take the time to do it right, you'll need to spend time doing it over". Frank
  11. Mahuna
    Hi Brian: For close sanding, as in the rabbet, I use a sanding stick made by gluing sandpaper onto a popsicle stick, then trim the end of the stick to the shape and size I need. Frank
  12. Mahuna
    Very nice work Rich! It seems to be going pretty quickly. Frank
  13. Mahuna
    Hi Brian Which one is mine? Frank
  14. Mahuna
    Before you buy anything, I would recommend you spend some time on this site - should clarify a lot of questions. http://howtoairbrush.com/airbrush-intro/ I'd also suggest s double-action airbrush - allows separate control over air and paint, which provides a much more controlled painting. I use Badger and Iwata, and am very happy with both, but if you're only going to paint hulls and other broad surfaces you don't need to spend what an Iwata would cost. I recommend staying away from Paasche - I've heard of problems learning to use them properly. The open cups aren't really an issue - you'll need to keep the airbrush upright anyway. Frank
  15. Mahuna
    I also learned about Zip Seizings from Hubert's web site, and coincidentally will be giving a demo/workshop tomorrow for our newly formed Ship Modeler's club in the Phoenix area. Hubert had a lot of great ideas and put in the time to document them, including lots of videos. His site was a great help to me when I started ship modeling a couple of years ago. Frank
  16. Mahuna
    Hi Dave - hope you had a great Thanksgiving. I'd like to see the way you did the gammoning if you get a chance. The gammoning slot in the stem knee looks like it's really hard to get to once the beak head is built out, and I'm interested in how you approached it. I've made removable gratings that (hopefully) will enable me to get to the gammoning slot when the time comes. The rest of the decking in the beak head are slats, trying to simulate the way open spaces were decked over in the 1500-1600 timeframe. I've tried to design my own beak head, since I wasn't happy with the way the plans had us doing it. My next step is to finish planking the walls of the beak head and to install the stanchions in the beak head. Rigging will likely start in a few weeks. Frank
  17. Mahuna
    Hi Bob: We just got back from vacation, and I'm looking forward to seeing the finished Lettie in person. I'll be in touch and we can work out a date. Great job! Frank
  18. Mahuna
    Hi Brian: I have both Badger and Iwata airbrushes. Why don't you plan to stick around for a while after the 11/29 meeting and we can look at both - maybe even spray a little paint around. Frank
  19. Mahuna
    I vote for natural. Frank
  20. Mahuna
    You'll need to be very thorough in getting the metal 'dust' from the steel wool off after buffing. It can show up later in paint and other finishes.
  21. Mahuna
    Hi Brian: Here's a post I made about the saw. I agree - it's a very useful tool. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8156-micro-combo-saw-from-unique-master-models/ Frank
  22. Mahuna
    I found a very interesting book on Alibris - "The Way of a Ship - a square-rigger voyage in the last days of sail" by Derek Lundy. It's the story of the author's great-great uncle and his journey from Liverpool to the west coast of North America, around Cape Horn in 1885, as a member of the crew of a four-masted barque. This is the synopsis from Alibris: "Based partly on the experiences of his great great uncle, an Irish sailor, Lundy recreates the voyage of a merchant sailing ship around Cape Horn in the 1880s. His masterful account reminds readers what Melville and Conrad expressed so well: that the sea voyage is an overarching metaphor for life itself. Photos & illustrations throughout." (my paperback copy had no photos). Interestingly there are 10 copies listed, each at $0.99 - well worth it. Frank
  23. Mahuna
    I used Yellowheart as accenting on my Mayflower. Two accent planks on the side of the Poop and 3 moulding strips. The white moulding is holly. Frank
  24. Mahuna
    This was the first time I had seen the Carmen and was very impressed, especially considering this was Brian's first wooden ship and was built in such a short time. Bravo! Frank
  25. Mahuna
    Hi Brian: If I can help you by milling some wood let me know. See you tomorrow. Frank

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