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Mahuna

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  1. Mahuna
    My other hobby is bird carving, and the carving is done using rotary tools. I use the flexible shaft Foredom for rough carving, then use bench-top rotary tools for the fine carving. This type of carving requires a level of precision and control you just can't get with a Dremel or similar tool. I use these tools in my ship modeling and find them very useful. Here's a link to a tool which is an excellent choice and costs much less than the tools that I have. Admittedly it's more expensive than a Dremel, but as in all tool choices you get what you pay for. http://www.gesswein.com/p-10702-marathon-micromotor-system.aspx?cpagenum=&sortfield=&sortdirection=&perpage= Here's a link to my bird carving web site: http://www.wingedexpressions.com
  2. Mahuna
    Hi John I'm a little late to the party, but I really like this build and will follow along the rest of the way. Frank
  3. Mahuna
    Hi Bob: I didn't see this review until now, but I've had this book for well over a year and it has been invaluable to me in understanding the design and construction of ships from that period. A future project is a scratch build of a sectional model of the Dunbrody, an irish famine ship of the late 1840's. The original was built in Canada in 1845, and from the construction plans it looks like it was built in a manner that Crothers describes in this book. The book will be an excellent aid in the build. Frank
  4. Mahuna
    Hi Jon I haven't used paint on chain, I was only suggesting where to find the appropriate color. If I were to paint chain I would definitely airbrush it instead of hand brushing it. Frank
  5. Mahuna
    Testor's Model Master line of enamels has two colors that might work: 1780 Steel - Flat, and 1781 Aluminum - Flat. http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/model-master/american-fs-enamel/bottles Frank
  6. Mahuna
    Been using that since I got Jim's tools. I agree, it's a perfect fit. Frank
  7. Mahuna
    Happy Birthday Bob!
  8. Mahuna
    Hi Don: Looks like it's strong enough for you to bring it on Saturday. Seems like one of the topics we should discuss is clamping. Rich also wants to talk about tools, so it should be an interesting session for you. Frank
  9. Mahuna
    Hi Don Looking forward to meeting you on 4/18. If possible, bring the kit along - I'd like to see it. The workboats from the Chesapeake Bay are unique and very interesting. I have several books about them and you are welcome to borrow them if interested. Frank
  10. Mahuna
    Hi Rich I hope you get the A/C in before we meet at your place again. I like the center workstation. Frank
  11. Mahuna
    Hi Chuck: Chapter 4 is a gem! I recommend it to anyone starting planking for the first time, regardless of the model they're working on. Frank
  12. Mahuna
    Great job Rich! When we meet in April I hope you'll tell us about your next ship. Frank
  13. Mahuna
    I'm glad you got it working!
  14. Mahuna
    You may be using a thread that is already wound in the same direction as the rope you're making (e.g right-hand thread used for right-hand rope). In this case the thread will unwind before winding up. This will cause the thread to be very loose and two of the threads will catch each other and pull the hooks and break the threads (I found this out the hard way). The solution is to start a decent amount of space above the floor, so there is room for the thread to unwind, and to make sure you keep the threads away from each other by spreading your fingers through the three (or four) strands - I made a simple device to do this - a paddle with four notches in it to keep the threads separate. Hope this helps. Once you get it figured out, the Prosak (or a similar homemade device) is pretty cool.
  15. Mahuna
    I've made rope from #100 DMC Cordonnet, which measures .011 inch diameter (the finished rope is .0185) and haven't had breaking problems. I suspect your weight is too heavy. It might also be that you're trying to twist it too much. Measure off 10% of the total length of the unwound strands, and don't make a rope less than 90% of the starting length to see if it makes a difference. I've been very satisfied with the machine. Frank
  16. Mahuna
    Hi Wayne: I'm also starting on using TurboCad to draft some frames, using your instructions. You mention that there are many things you'd do differently now, so I'm a little concerned. Can you give us some info on what you would do differently? Thanks, Frank
  17. Mahuna
    Hi Rich: Was glad to finally see your ship in person, and was very impressed with your work. Keep at it - you'll figure out the best way for your rigging. Frank
  18. Mahuna
    Great work Brian - looks very nice. Frank
  19. Mahuna
    Hi Brian I think what might be throwing you off is the open spaces at the borders of the grating. The hatch gratings were typically removable, so my approach is to have a solid border around all sides. Since we're meeting in a couple of weeks, why don't you delay glueing the hatch to the deck and bring the hatch and grating with you to the meeting. You might get some helpful comments on it. The gratings typically are one of the things that folks seem to pick out when looking at a model, so it pays to take a little extra time to get them pleasing to the eye. Frank
  20. Mahuna
    The Crothers books are great references for this period. I'm glad you mentioned them - I refer to mine often. Frank
  21. Mahuna
    Hi Ed When looking at these views of Young America the word 'elegant' comes to mind. Beautiful and inspiring work. Frank
  22. Mahuna
    I second what Bill recommends - I was just going to send you this link - it would be a very worthwhile purchase. I have his other book and it's great. http://www.amazon.com/Rigging-Period-Models-Step---Step/dp/1557509700/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422589479&sr=8-1&keywords=rigging+ships Frank
  23. Mahuna
    Rich: This site should help clarify a lot of the rigging: http://sailing-ships.oktett.net/square-rigging.html The site also has a glossary that is very useful: http://sailing-ships.oktett.net/article-index.html I think this is a good topic for our meeting on Saturday. Bring your plans and maybe one of our group can help answer some of your questions. See you Saturday. Frank
  24. Mahuna
    This link should help. http://www.sawbird.com/scroll_saw_blades.htm Frank
  25. Mahuna
    Madrone and African Pear are very similar to Swiss Pear and are available through Woodworker's Source. Castello and Pau Marfim (also called Guatambu) are very similar to Boxwood. All of these woods are hard, have tight grain, and will mill very nicely. I also have found some Poplar that is almost pure white and is a nice wood to work with. Similar to basswood but harder. Frank

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