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alpayed

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Posts posted by alpayed

  1. Hi guys. I have been a bit quiet on this dealing with some health issues. (all good now).

    Here is a rigging schedule and belaying diagram for Danmark. All the numbers correspond to the Billings ones. Some of the rigging is NQR on the original plans.

    I will post doctored drawings of the errors soon.

    AllanDanmark Belaying Plan.pdf

    Danmark_rigging.xlsx

  2. Hi Chris. No doubt the replica was built as necessary. The choice of timber has a lot to do with it. The method of terminating planks on the wale is typical of dutch vessels.

    The issue with most kits is the double planking technique. The outer layer is so thin that bending the planks sideways as is necessary is impossible.

    Even with single planks it is not possible without using steelers or drop strakes. Oak and Fir is a much more workable timbers than Jarrah and that is probably why the replica is planked as such. No problems.

    I was just pointing out that English ships of the era would have been planked as Kipping describes.

    I think that Karl almost had it right but in practice it would need more steelers/dropstrakes to achieve the desired result.

    Another interesting read is about ribbands. They used these to divide the planking into sections so they could work out where to put the steelers.

    Kind regards

    Allan

  3. The manner in which Karl depicted the bow planking is difficult to produce. It requires compound bending of the planks.

    The replica is planked below the wales in a fashion more akin to the methods used on Dutch vessels.

    Here are a couple of drawings I produced in the 90's based on the how I planked the model.

    It's not the same as Karl's but easy to achieve.

    Based on contemporary paintings and other work I think it is a good representation.

     

    Regards

    Allan

    scan0014aa.jpg

    endeavour_bowA.jpg

    endeavour_sternA.jpg

  4. On 4/10/2020 at 7:33 PM, shipaholic said:

    Hi Scott

    Yes I also built this kit about 30 years ago, and am currently building a bigger 1:51 scale Endeavour. Be careful about using the Marquardt book as reference, it has quite a few errors but mostly its a good reference especially for spar dimensions and some of the finer details not in the kit plans. The AL kit rigging plans are mostly correct, but as I said, lacking detail.

    I will follow your build with interest.

    Cheers

    Steve

    One ought not state that a reference has errors without being specific. I does not help the model builder. Please point out any specific errors or where you may disagree with the work.

    Regards

    Allan Tyler

     

  5. Hi guys.

    Thanks for the kind comments.

    A couple of pics of the lower masts. (so far)

    This work is not hard, just time consuming, take your time and have fun. Some of these parts are my second and third attempt.

    I look at the work of others on this site and get a lot of inspiration. I get a lot of satisfaction too.

    At this scale it's at the limit of my ability. (at this stage) But I keep trying. And so should you.

    Allan

     

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  6. 3 hours ago, Peter Cane said:

    I assume that the building trade pine in Bunnings is actually Huon pine then?

    Hi Pete.

    The stuff Bunnings have is Murray pine. Australian native pine. Usually sold as decking, fence pickets, and fence posts.

    Huon, King billy and celery top are harder to find but it is around.

    Here also:

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-kg-pack-of-HUON-PINE-Turning-Blanks/163854226854?hash=item26267915a6:g:0eMAAOSwQTNddh-u

    Photinia: see here: 

    Regarding seasoning: Cut pieces to about 600mm long and just store in a dry place.

    For small sections you can "season" it in a microwave. Google "wood seasoning in a microwave"

     

    Regards

    Allan

  7. Here in OZ you only need:

    Huon pine.

    Murray pine. Every bunnings store has this. colour from creamy to almost black. Densest softwood on the planet. Awesome stuff.

    Photinia Robusta, the most common hedging here, and it beats box and pear for turning and carving. You will have to age it yourself.  your Microwave oven is good for this.

    NZ Kauri. still available even if you have to smash up old furniture.

    Cellery top and King billy pine is also good.

    Old farm cypress is also plentiful. A bit like NZ Kauri. (timber recyclers love this stuff)

    Western Red Cedar is easily obtained and is good if a close grained bit can be found.

     

    Allan

  8. On 9/7/2019 at 2:51 AM, Mirabell61 said:

    What about rigging and sails ?

    Regarding the rigging, I have been working on getting my ropewalk to produce very fine rope.

    I have perfected getting it to wind two single strands giving a rope diameter of 0.2mm.

    I think rayon is the best as it produces a thread with no fluff or fur.

    1 strand x 2 =0.2mm

    1 strands x 3 =0.3mm

    1 strands x 4 =0.4mm

    2 strands x 2 = 0.4mm  (1x4 looks better)

    2 strand x 3 = 0.5mm

    2 strands x 4 = 0.6mm

    4 strands x 3 = 0.7mm

     

     

    Allan

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  9. Hi Peter.

    I think the kit that was given to me was pretty old too.

    There is a a newer one with updated fittings I think.

    I have accumulated a lot of images/plans etc. PM me and I will send the stuff to you.

    Their facebook page is good for photos.

    https://www.facebook.com/skoleskibet.danmark

     

    This xls may be useful. however its a work in progress also.

     

     

    Danmark_rigging.pdf rigging1.xlsx

  10. Here are some pics of my attempt at bashing a Billings Danmark.

    The model was started by another person who unfortunately will never see the finished model. (how often does that happen)

    It was just a painted hull when I started. I stripped and refinished, then laid the decks. It's pretty much scratch from there.

    Some components from the kit are being used, turnbuckles, belaying pins for example.

     

    Allan

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  11. I was making yet more parts today and thought I should share what I think is the best wood I have ever used for turning/carving.

    Photinia Robusta is a plant used mainly for hedges.

     

    Some plagiarism  from Wikipedia

    They are a part of the rose family (Rosaceae) and related to the apple. The botanical genus name derives from the Greek word photeinos for shiny and refers to the often glossy leaves. Most species are evergreen, but deciduous species also occur. The small apple-shaped fruit has a size of 4 to 12 mm and forms in large quantities. They ripen in the fall and often remain hanging on the bush until well into the winter. The fruits are used as food by birds, which excrete the seeds with their droppings and thereby distribute the plant.

    The natural range of these species is restricted to warm temperate Asia, from the Himalaya east to Japan and south to India and Thailand. They have, however, been widely cultivated throughout the world as ornamentals for their white flowers and red fruits.

     

    P_Robusta.jpg.5505a571300d0d2c1ce34d2a5227dd4f.jpg

    It is better than Box, Pear or Apple.

    It machines and cuts like hard plastic and does not come apart.

    The flange next to the measured one is 0.2mm thick, The small shaft is 0.5mm did.

    With more care even smaller is easily obtained.

     

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    Now I won't be held responsible for all the disappearing hedges around the world.

     

    Regards

    Allan

     

     

     

  12. 4 hours ago, Clark said:

    Within all the discussions about CAD and precision modelling, I felt a bit old fashioned when trusting the eyes.

    Clark

    I spent most of my working career designing machines etc and in latter years all on CAD.

    I don't make models to do that. I can understand why people get excited about 3D printing something they have modeled in CAD.

    I spent so long doing that the interest has waned. I would much rather wind up rope.

    I built a rope walk to make the rope for my models. This type of thing is what I enjoy and eyeballing sizes etc is all part of it.

    However I get huge satisfaction from building an item from scratch with raw materials, basic tools, my hands and eyeballing.

    Although I don't mind kits and kit bashing I throw out any component that is not up to scratch and make it myself.

    If the part is good and I know I could make it myself, why bother, just use it.

    Here is a pic of "Lightning's" rigging with some of that rope walks product.

    Also a CAD drawing of Chapman's Lobster Howker I did in 1985.

    The drawings and the CAD modeling is only a means to an end for me.

     

    Regards

    Allan

    IMG_5546.JPG

    Lobster_hoy.jpg

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