capnharv2

Dear friends thank you very much.

Here is what it looks today.  It may not look like much more was done but its very deceiving.  I have been making a great deal of progress by tweaking the drafts...refining the construction concepts etc.
 
In these pictures you can see I added a few more frames.  But more importantly I have faired the frames.  This was important for my design and needed to be done now to test that the chocks would not be sanded away.  Also to test the overall shape but I was pretty convinced that they were OK.  Everything worked out wonderful. What you might find interesting is the fact that none of these frames are glued into the keel....they are all just test fit together and this is also true of my initial test for the port framing.  All the pieces are just dry fit together.  The port sills are not faired yet as you can see.  The fit on all of the pieces and frames was surprisingly good which is what enabled me to fair the inside and out without too much difficulty, although you would/should not try this at this stage.  Its not recommended.
 
The port framing is purposely simplified as some of you know.  I believe they were called fish tail joints in actuality but these are just simplified squared off mortises which will be fine.  For those folks who have more experience and want to create the fish tail joints instead, that will be very easy to do with just a slight modification to the laser etched notches I am using in this kit.   
 
Remember, this is my throw-away test prototype.  I want to get two more frames done and see how the sweep port framing goes and how the scupper tubes fit.  Once that is done I will discard this mess and start over.   Not to mention that after a few tweaks in the concept and build sequence the next iteration will be much better.  I learned a great deal and its almost time for phase two...I will start posting more details at that time once I get this preliminary testing done.  
 
One quick note....I am well aware that other folks creating drafts and making kits dont do this kind of up front work.  Its just something I feel I have to do before releasing anything.  I am constantly making little tweaks that make everything hopefully just a little bit better. This is the cherry version by the way, but I am still going back and forth about using the new wood on the finished one which I will start in a few weeks.  Just a little more testing to do!!!
 

 

 
  

I've finished all the framing - already . This has only taken me a bit over two days, compared to the identical sized Bismarck which took me over a week. Credit is due to Halinski's excellently laser cut pieces - compared to GPM's Bismarck, well, there IS NO comparison. GPM's were really sloppily cut . This framing has also turned out near perfect :





 
Unlike the instructions in Bismarck, Halinski have you fit the (precut) Deck sections to the hull at this stage - without gluing the printed decks to them. This will make things a lot easier, as there's no chance of damaging the decks while fairing and hull skinning with the hull upside-down :


 
I've added extra card for Fillers at both bow and stern. Initial trimming was done with a scalpel, finished off with a 150 grit sanding stick :




 
  Danny

I've gone a fair way into building the framework. The laser-cut parts are EXCELLENT, they are so precise that I need to peel off the top layer of card to allow the tabs to fit into the slots :

 
Here are the four sections. I've also discovered that I won't need to make any extra bracing between the bulkheads - they are supplied in the kit . I haven't fitted any of them yet, I will need to fit the sections together first :



 
So far the design has been brilliant .
 
  Danny

Almost finished....A few more items to add.

Hi all. Here's the start of my latest Card model - HMS Hood, at the time of her short-lived battle with Bismarck. She was sunk on 23rd of May 1941. Information on Hood can be found on Wikipedia HERE.
 
The kit is from Halinski in Poland, a kit manufacturer that I've had some experience with (see "IJN Amatsukaze" in my signature). I had a lot of fun with that kit and found every aspect of it from design, printing and even the instructions to be excellent. A bonus in this kit is that there is a separate sheet of instructions in English, so I won't be needing Google Translate this time. Although I rarely looked at the written instructions anyway , mostly I just used the photos.
 
There are 20 sheets of printed parts. The number of parts on each sheet range from 5 to well over 250, depending on their size :

 
I also bought the Laser-cut set of frames etc. There are 14 different sheets, but also about 6 of them have two identical sheets - some or most of the parts are probably glued together to double their thickness :

 
I also bought the Metal Barrel sets, and whatever PE Halinski had for this ship (12 sheets). However, NO railing was supplied in the PE set, so I will need to buy the Railing Set from Eduard's for the plastic Trumpeter kit - hopefully I won't need to modify too many pieces :

 
I've finished all the initial preparations. I bought two A3 size Display Books to hold all the separate sheets of parts :

 
 
The instructions are mostly in the form of computer rendered pictures which I found much easier to work with than the very poor line-drawings in the Bismarck kit :


 
My final preparation - and one I've found to be invaluable on previous Card kits - was to spend two days cataloguing every part on all the sheets into a Spreadsheet sorted into numerical order with the Sheet Number next to the part. This is quite a lot of work (there are 6 pages of the spreadsheet), but it saves A LOT of time later when searching for parts. Rather than search through all 34 sheets for one small part I can find it in seconds by knowing which sheet to look through :


 
On with the REAL work .
 
  Danny

Tried to walk away but I just had to fold his legs back, shorten the wings more, shorten the pointy end of the spear, and clean up (simplify) the horses legs.
Now I need to let it rest a few days. Have been looking at numerous other figure heads and rigging and I was thinking along the lines of what you (Druxey) had sketched above.
Below is where I went. ... but I admit to liking your sketch a bit more.  It fits better, better scale, alleviates concerns for clearance of rigging and bowsprit.

 
At this time sketches cost nothing but spark ideas and give me something to try to whittle (or carve or gouge).  I think I have a far trip to develop a talent at this bit of wood magic before it can be considered I've gone to far down the road.  I am sure the first 5 to 10 goes would not have a chance to get near my bow!
 
Thank you for having steered me.
 
I have to ask.  How did you create such a nice looking sketch so damn fast?
(Talent?)
 
 

Hello
 
The 26ft longboat : 
 
As mentioned, there's been some trial & error situations but here's my final shot.
Regarding it's color scheme, I must admit there's some personal interpretaion involved.
Furthermore something is puzzling me : referring to the AOTS-book there is some device that seems to secure the helm (see last pic) . Any ideas about its purpose ?
 
Best wishes for 2018 to you all

Thanks, everyone, for your support. I was taken away from the shop for a few days, to rig up a hoist for kayaks--real rigging.
 
I am starting on the lower two strakes of the wales. I originally cut the foremost planks at the round of the bow according to my CAD drawing. But when I spiled to the strakes already installed, I discovered that the upper curve was much more dramatic than my original piece. The photo below shows the original piece at the top, and the card with the spiled edge below, showing the difference in curvature. In hindsight, I realize that I assumed the wales would be dead straight vertical, since they are so at midships; not so at the bow or stern! I made xerox copies of the spiled card for port and starboard. A couple of more pieces for the mistake box.
 
I had spent a great of time on the first two strakes sanding and filing the edges of the planks. I did this freehand with shaped sanding blocks. The challenge was to keep the edge square, or tapered slightly where needed to tighten up the joint. It was a little hit and miss. So I am trying a little jig shown below, which clamps into my jeweler's vise block. The two hold downs secure the plank, and then I can run the sanding block against the edge, keeping it exactly perpendicular. When I need to angle the edge, I will slip a thin spacer under one edge of the plank to change its angle to the table.
 
Mark
 

Thanks for following along, for the likes, and commentary...
 
Still fussing with cannon... I drilled the holes for the rings and hooks that fit to the bulkhead.  The first photo shows the machining jig and drilling tool.  All the barrels are in the carriages and the appropriate hardware added to them.  I also added the trunnion caps made from black paper soaked in CA. (Barely visible in the last photo).  The 2nd pic shows 6 in position to check alignment, etc.   So far... so good.   Now for the fun part... hooks, blocks, and rope for the training gear.  Once that's completed, I'll start adding the breeching and installing the hardware to the bulkhead and connecting everything up.   My only comment is "This stuff is tiny.  Next time, a bigger scale. Admiral permitting of course."  
 

 

 

 

 
 

Another small update.
 
I decided that the straps for the main yard tyes were too long.  Plus I did not like the contrast of the tarred strap with the natural tye.  So here is the quick correction.
 
First photo is the old strap.  These straps are made on a serving machine by taking 12 or so turns between the prongs then serving over, leaving an eye at both ends.  The eyes are then lashed together end to end to make a continuous loop.  This results in an unserved gap over the eyes that is then served manually (not using the machine).  The result is called a selvagee.  I also use this method, or variations of it, to make the strops of blocks.

 
The second photo is a comparison of the new and old straps.  The blocks on either side are the main sheet blocks rose lashed in place.   The other unfinished loops are place holders for blocks that still need to be installed.

 
Here are both of the new straps installed.

 
This last photo will give you some idea of how the tye attaches to the strap.  When installed on the ship a seizing will be clapped on above the hitch to secure it.

Floyd,
 
Does your wife like the copper plating?
 
Harvey

Are you going to coat it? Otherwise it will age naturally.

Thank you John and Carl.
 
All the portholes and steps are fitted. The closest set of steps are about to be painted :


 
There's another Boom near the bow :

 
The main entry ladders are made from PE. I scratchbuilt the platforms :


 
It's now time to fit the screws and rudders which I made 5 months ago :


 
The final things to fit are the two flags, as I usually do. It signals the end of the build . I de-laminated the paper to make it look a bit more realistic, and glued the pieces back-to-back :



 
I only need to glue the model to the base, which I made a while ago. It's just been given it's final coat of lacquer (I'd forgotten to do that earlier ). The final pictures will be posted a bit later today.
 
  Danny

Hello there in outer space,
 
my job keeps me quite busy the last months. But now I wil have more time for my hobbies. This is just a note I'am not raising the white flag on this model.
As a good dad, I finished a fractionating column for my sons model railway first. It's 1/160 scale, made from scrap plastic and cardboard.

 
 
 

I worked a bit on the plaque by adding the name plates.  I ran out of labeling so I'll get some tomorrow.
 
Rob

Made a bit more progress today by simulating the lower stem and keel bolts. Holes were drilled with a #76 bit and filled with .017 black monofilament and PVA glue. I'm not a big fan of CA as it has a tendency to discolor the wood.
 
I anxious to see what the Cherry will look like after a coat of W-O-P. I should know soon enough.


Mike

Floyd,
 
Does your wife like the copper plating?
 
Harvey

Ok a small update. I spent the day at my Maker Space workshop. Lots of fun with fellow members. lots of different projects underway. I did some 3D printing and also some work on the Syren. The work you guys do is humbling. I struggled to get the horse shoe hinges on until I hit upon a solution. I found the smallest bit of glue applied with a straight pin was the best solution. I am still working on the rudder hinges. And I thought that would be a simple. Hah! Currently I am doing several things in parallel. Preparing the gun port covers, painting the figurehead, finishing the rudder hinges, and preparing the channels.
 
 

I've fitted the one boat that sits on the davits. I used 0.2mm wire to simulate the lowering cable, and some 0.4mm wire for the support bracket that holds it to the middle of the davit :

 
All the railings are finally completed, apart from a bit of touch-up paint for the port side ones :





 
Because I was two lengths of railing short I've had to use a some that was left over from Amatsukaze. Unfortunately it's only a 2-bar rail, but I managed to have enough 3-bar to get to the aft cleats so I did a bit of a "fudge". Unless you look carefully it's not really noticeable, and it'll do me :

 
There's actually still quite a bit to do to finish this model, things I'd forgotten about. I'd left off fitting the portholes and steps to the hull in case they were damaged any time I had to move the model (which was a lot ). I've made a start to the steps - there are about 70 of them to fit. I'm using 0.2mm nickel-silver wire for them :


 
Yes, I've noticed the bit of grey touch-up paint needed near the bottom . It's not the only bit either.
 
  Danny

Thanks for the replies guys .
 
The four anchors are fitted. I used 15 link-per-inch chain for the main ones, and 40 lpi for the auxilliary chain on the foremost one. The rather poor quality printing really stands out in the different red colours, and that panel didn't line up properly either . More touch-up will be needed :




 
I've also made the fore and aft flagpoles from 1.0mm and 0.6mm brass wire :


 
Now i'm onto the railing for the main deck. This should take me a couple of days - there's over 2.5 metres of it .
 
  Danny

Thanks everyone for interest and kind words
 
Frolick - thanks for posting the history of that action, always very interesting to read.
 
Final comments on the stern, brief notes, and pictures thrown in just for spice:
 
The roof of the quarter galleries was really the last major hurdle to getting the 'look' of the stern as I wanted it.  This did pose a conundrum, as options abounded.  Other frigates of the period typically seemed to have the more classical fluted columns between lights and shingled 'roof' to the quarter galleries, and the contemporary models of Diana have a highly decorative roof and columns which Christian (Barbossa) has replicated so beautifully on his Diana.  In the end, just decided to follow the AOTS book and its distinctly Georgian look which I like and use some of the kit supplied mouldings.
 
The roof itself was made from some spare stock and shaped to dimensions less that that suggested by the instructions using the plans.  The kit provides some soft metal decorations, although how they are supposed to be applied is a mystery as the roof has a quite fine, but pronounced convex-concave shape.  I very carefully attacked this with a dremel and removed the thickness of the metal backing to leave the decorative elements which felt a little more in keeping with the scale.  This was less challenging that at first thought, though care is certainly required and fine tuning with a sanding stick.  The only problem was that the these did have a tendency to break, although these can be reassembled without too much difficulty in situ.
 
With the roof in place the stern seems to have acquired its (almost) final form, some decorations between the lights need to be applied still as appear on the stern, and a molding will ultimately the placed on top.  Overall, I am very happy with the way this turned out, and proved to be more challenging than I had initially thought.  I've talked at length at some faults with the dimensions and shapes of the provided PE parts but I think these can be used to provide reasonable results with some planning.  These do look much better to the human eye, the camera seems to highlight the slightest misalignment 
 

 
The sheer rail could now be placed, and fortuitously this landed almost exactly where it should lining up with the top of the quarter gallery roof.  Gaps have been left for the channels which will be positioned later.  Steps, fenders and chesstrees have also been attached after reducing slightly to the expected level of the deck.  Not much else to say so I'll leave with some pictures...
 

Most of the smaller main deck details are now fitted. The rest will be done after the main deck railing is installed. The main guns are also permanently mounted :






 
The Wash Deflectors took a while to fit, with all the very small support braces taking the longest :


 
  Danny

In a previous post I spoke about shifting the fore halyard knight off centerline.  Here are the promised photos.
 

 
The knight is removed and the hole is lengthened to starboard approximately it's own width.  A strip of styrene is glued beneath to hold up the new deck.
 

 
This photo shows the old centered location of the knight.
 

 

 
A small section of matching deck was cut from a spare forecastle deck (old kit).
 

 
The section is trimmed and fitted.
 

 
Gaps filled and deck painted.
 

 
Knight remounted in new location and paint touched up.
 
Regards,
 
P.S.  I really like the new set up I am using for photography.  I am using a macro lens filter attachment and photo flood lamps. Post processing using Adobe photoshop.  Still think there is room for improvement with the lighting and shadows.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 268 – Fore Upper Topsail Yard Parral 1: Wooden Yoke
 
All square yards above the lower topsails will be secured to their masts with parrals.  These each consist of a wooden yoke bolted and strapped against the aft flat of the octagon at the center of each yard.  The yoke is clamped to the yard by means of a hinged strap.  The first picture shows the finished, but as yet unblackened, parral assembly fitted to the fore upper topsail yard.
  

 
The picture also shows the center sling band, the bands for quarter blocks and the holes drilled for the jackstay eyebolts.  This part describes only the modeling of the wooden parral yoke.  You will note in the picture that the inside of the mast opening is lined on the wood face.  The lining of the hinged clasp will be done later.  The next picture shows the wooden yoke before assembly.
 

 
The yoke has been notched for the sling band, but not yet for the two quarter bands.
 
The wooden yokes could be shaped manually, but more precision in the circular opening may be obtained by boring the opening using the milling machine fitted with a rotary table.  Starting with an oversized wood blank, the circular opening of the yoke was bored first, followed by rip sawing to yield a half circle, then sawing the base, and finally shaping the curved sides.  The circular opening was bored using the setup shown in the next picture.
 

 
The four jaw chuck conveniently centers and holds the piece.  For modeling, the diameter of the opening will be 2" larger than the topmast diameter at the lower cap.  This allows 1" for lining and 1" clearance.  In practice, these allowances were more like a total of 1½" – ¾" for leather lining and a ¾" gap.  The bore was made by centering a milling bit on the rotating table, offsetting the bit to cut the correct ID (= hole radius – bit radius), lowering the running bit through the piece and rotating the table a full 360 degrees.   The resulting bore was very precise.
 
Centering the table on the mill spindle using the normal dial indicator method can be a tedious task – a lot of work for this single bore.  The setup shown in the next picture simplifies and speeds up this task and yields sufficient accuracy for these borings.
 

 
The method uses two short lengths of close fitting telescoping tubing.  The larger size is clamped in the four jaw chuck mounted on the rotary table.  The smaller tube is chucked in the spindle.  The X and Y tables are then adjusted until the tubes fit together smoothly as shown – centering the table.  This is most easily done using the sensitive drilling attachment, which is then replaced by the milling chuck. 
 
In the next picture, the yoke has been sawed to yield a half circle for the opening.
 

 
To accurately make this cut, the depth of wood below the bore was measured.  To this was added one-half the bore diameter.  Digital calipers were then set to this dimension and used to set the rip fence on the saw.  After cutting the half circle, the rip fence was reset to the full depth of the yoke and the base excess sawed off.  The curved faces of the yoke were then cut out on the scroll saw and finished with files/sanding.  The notches for the bands were then filed out and the yoke glued to the yard as shown in the next picture.
 

 
You will note that the banding shown on the drawings in some of the photos was later corrected.  Fitting this banding and making the hinge/clasp will be described in the next part.
 
Ed