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realworkingsailor

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Everything posted by realworkingsailor

  1. Am I left handed? .... well... the answer to that is long and convoluted... I think by default I am right handed... but it could have gone either way... I play hockey and golf left handed, I can swing a baseball bat either way (although a bit more effective left handed), tennis right handed. I write right, but apparantly way back when I was first being taught to write, I was constantly switching hands, and my teachers would consistently put the pencil back in my right hand... although for all intents and purposes, my hand writing goes from illegible to atrocious.... I'm not ambidextrous.. so who knows what the heck I am.... Mark, Peter, Popeye, Aldo, and everyone else, thanks for looking in, I'll try not to let all this positive feedback go to my head. Anyway... a small progress report... finished the mizzen shrouds. And yes... I probably wrapped the deadeyes incorrectly, but I'm not changing that now.. it isn't something that really bothers me too much... maybe next time. I've still only left the lanyards secure with a single half hitch and I've also left them a bit overlong. When I get the stay on, then I'll do a final tension adjustment and secure everything properly. Andy
  2. Thanks Augie... Nothing like a haphazard comment to send us all into paralytic confusion (no offence meant to you, Grant, maybe on my next ship I'll remember to do it correctly ) Andy
  3. Uh.... Oh.... Hmmm..... I've got it set so that on both sides the dead end is on the aft side of the shroud.... I hate to say it, but it's a small detail that I think I shall choose to overlook.. So I am in no position to say you are right or wrong.. I'm just going to do it my way, but thanks for your compliment Andy
  4. Randy and Sjors.. sorry if I've been a bit vague about the whole thing.. For knots I secure them with a small dab of GS Hypo Cement. http://georgestrains.com/search/?query=Hypo+Cement&records=6 This stuff is great, a little smelly, but it soaks right into the line and dries with a little flexibility in it. After that I'll brush on Acrylic Matte Medium instead of wax to cut down on the fuzzies and whatnot. A 500ml Bottle of premixed (diluted) medium from Scenic Express goes for about $6: http://georgestrains.com/product/81555-scen-matte-medium-16-oz/ BTW, if you can't find a local supplier, George's Trains will ship internationally and overseas. In the case of my servings, after making up a run on my machine, I'll just coat the whole thing in matte medium and let it dry before removing the rope. Anyway, I've re-jigged the first mizzen shrouds.. much nicer now.. The lanyards are sill just held with a single half hitch in case things need to be adjusted. Andy
  5. Thanks David I've just finished serving a replacement shroud, and I'm waiting for the acrylic to dry. That stuff is great to use on rigging.... I highly recommend it for anyone. Not only good for dealing with fuzzies, it has provided extra reinforcement for my knots and servings, and when I pulled the shrouds off, all the loops at the top have held their shapes... (But nothing is too stiff or brittle either!) Andy
  6. Yup... Seems the consensus agrees with me..... In another manner of speaking....I'm not crazy Thanks for the input, and Sjors, thanks for that quantifiable answer... Andy
  7. Ok... back to the task at hand.. or rather.... what I intended to do yesterday... I had started work on the mizzen shrouds and I got about this far. Things were going well, but I had to pause for a moment. I'm wondering if the deadeye lanyards are a bit too long. I'm not adverse to redoing the shroud if the expert opinions deem it so (it is only one pair so far). I've only secured the forward lanyard with a single half hitch so undoing it won't be much of a challenge, and neither will be remaking the shroud again... Let me know what you all think.. Andy
  8. Sherry, Mobbsie and Eric, a copy will be forwarded to you shortly Andy
  9. I have actually sounded with a leadline... It's not easy from a moving ship. You have to hurl the lead far enough ahead that by the time it reaches the bottom it will be abeam of you... Not an easy thing to judge... A wonderful little (sort of) project Andy
  10. I'd stay away from number 4.... That cross grain could be nothing but trouble. Number 2 doesn't look too bad, but as far as colour goes, I would have to agree with the crowd on number 3. Andy
  11. What a monster ship... but she looks really nice. Can't wait to see her all finished. I can understand the delay in the update... you had to entertain a pair of lost Netherlanders... Andy
  12. Eric, the spacing was needed because of the size of the gears. they where the only ones the hobby shop had on hand, so to avoid rapping my knuckles on the spindle I needed to add a bit of spacing. Larger gears would eliminate the need for the idler gear. Kevin, according to TFFM 4: The middle quarter of a pair of shrouds is to be served. (for example, my mizzen shrouds are approximately 15 cm, x2 means 30cm total length, so a quarter of that is 7.5 cm). Also on the fore and main masts, the leading shroud is supposed to be served its entire length, but whether I do that or not is still up for debate. Robbyn... ok... I wasn't sure, have a nice trip and good luck at the hobby shop. Patrick, thank you very much for the compliment, let me know if you want my more complete instructions Anyway.. I hoped to have more done today, but a phone call first thing this morning (not work BTW) had me dashing up north... seems our lake rose 2 feet overnight and a few things where in great peril of drifting away, namely the dock boards, and needed to be rescued. We got off pretty lucky... a few people at the south end of the lake are going to have problems.. they left their boats on mooring lines a bit too short... and as the water rose... well... the lines got tight and well... they're now the proud owners of outboard submarines.... Andy
  13. Not my original intention... And I firmly believe that when it comes to these sorts of things, I usually only get lucky once... So mass production is out of the question... Although I did PM Robbyn something that might pass for instructions, I may have her scared off making her own as I haven't heard back as yet... Andy
  14. Ben... Haven't tried that.... Yet... Hmmm...... Popeye.... Hobby shop... If you don't have a model train store, try someone who deals with RC stuff... Andy
  15. I heard about this yesterday at the hobby shop. Needless to say, the model railroad community will be up in arms over this, since the majority of Floquil and Polyscale products are geared to railway colours. Andy
  16. Thanks guys! And what's more, I've wasted little time in using it. And it's more than up to the task. Just to prove it, the mizzen shrouds
  17. Herding spiders? You got some sort of 1:64th Rawhide thing goin' on down home? Looks great Andy
  18. Yeah, nice job so far.... A couple odds and ends to adjust on my build and I'll be following along with my shrouds too.... Andy
  19. Well... I'm feeling pretty proud of myself right now... my machine works like a charm! The basic structure is made out of 0.080" Styrene sheet. It is 3" wide and 7 1/2" Long. This allows about 6" of line to be served at one time, and is within the structural limits of styrene. It's probably at the small end of things, but it's big enough for me. I managed to get the gears at no cost (one of the benifits of being friends with the hobby shop manager ), and the total cost is well below the $20 limit. There's not much point in going into gear spacing, because it will all depend on what size gears you get. Mine are all drive gears from model locomotives, around 3/4" nominal diameter. To space them out, I added two middle idler gears. The shaft size of the end gears was 5/32" and the idler was somewhere around 2.5mm, which I drilled out to 1/8". This allowed me to use standard styrene stock rod and tubing for the gear axles. The end plates are 3" square, and the gears are lined up 3/4" below the top edge. I made a gearcase cover over the idler and spindle gears, both to keep them in place and keep the rope from getting caught. The structure is all glued together with Tenax plastic glue, and the gears are held in place with a bit of CA. If anyone wants further instructions, just PM me.. Andy
  20. I think I was browsing around there at some point in time... Not sure if it really registered or not... Anyway... I'm going to test my machine soon so sometime in the next couple of hours look for an update.... Andy
  21. Hate to say it, but Chester looks a little clubfooted for those waterskis... You might need someone with more... dainty feet.. Andy
  22. Wow... That is really nice. I love how you've managed to make her so colourful without being overwhelming... And the bolt detail on the hull is incredible. Andy
  23. Well... I've completed a prototype...I'll test it in the morning and if all goes well, I'll share the results of my efforts. Andy
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