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realworkingsailor

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Everything posted by realworkingsailor

  1. Ben... Haven't tried that.... Yet... Hmmm...... Popeye.... Hobby shop... If you don't have a model train store, try someone who deals with RC stuff... Andy
  2. I heard about this yesterday at the hobby shop. Needless to say, the model railroad community will be up in arms over this, since the majority of Floquil and Polyscale products are geared to railway colours. Andy
  3. Thanks guys! And what's more, I've wasted little time in using it. And it's more than up to the task. Just to prove it, the mizzen shrouds
  4. Herding spiders? You got some sort of 1:64th Rawhide thing goin' on down home? Looks great Andy
  5. Yeah, nice job so far.... A couple odds and ends to adjust on my build and I'll be following along with my shrouds too.... Andy
  6. Well... I'm feeling pretty proud of myself right now... my machine works like a charm! The basic structure is made out of 0.080" Styrene sheet. It is 3" wide and 7 1/2" Long. This allows about 6" of line to be served at one time, and is within the structural limits of styrene. It's probably at the small end of things, but it's big enough for me. I managed to get the gears at no cost (one of the benifits of being friends with the hobby shop manager ), and the total cost is well below the $20 limit. There's not much point in going into gear spacing, because it will all depend on what size gears you get. Mine are all drive gears from model locomotives, around 3/4" nominal diameter. To space them out, I added two middle idler gears. The shaft size of the end gears was 5/32" and the idler was somewhere around 2.5mm, which I drilled out to 1/8". This allowed me to use standard styrene stock rod and tubing for the gear axles. The end plates are 3" square, and the gears are lined up 3/4" below the top edge. I made a gearcase cover over the idler and spindle gears, both to keep them in place and keep the rope from getting caught. The structure is all glued together with Tenax plastic glue, and the gears are held in place with a bit of CA. If anyone wants further instructions, just PM me.. Andy
  7. I think I was browsing around there at some point in time... Not sure if it really registered or not... Anyway... I'm going to test my machine soon so sometime in the next couple of hours look for an update.... Andy
  8. Hate to say it, but Chester looks a little clubfooted for those waterskis... You might need someone with more... dainty feet.. Andy
  9. Wow... That is really nice. I love how you've managed to make her so colourful without being overwhelming... And the bolt detail on the hull is incredible. Andy
  10. Well... I've completed a prototype...I'll test it in the morning and if all goes well, I'll share the results of my efforts. Andy
  11. Hah! Tell you what... If this works... I'll post the parts list and instructions for free... Andy
  12. Well, a model train store (especially one that does repairs in-house) is usually well stocked with gears and brass tubing and a few other odds and ends. I don't expect to spend much more than $20 on parts.... I'll let everyone know how it goes... Andy
  13. You could get away with the salmon.... although not this time of year...
  14. Sounds like you're doind what my neighbour jokingly said he does.... go fishing.. catch nothing... head to the grocery store... buy "fresh caught" fish.... Works a little more convincingly if you don't buy the frozen ones...
  15. Well....we measured the lake water temperature Monday afternoon.... 62F (that's just the water, mind you ). Not immeditately fatal... but very gasp inducing and far from comfortable. The air temperature is hovering around the mid 20s © Not quite AC weather, depending on the humidity, and we have no AC at the cottage.. just a lake... Anyway, part 2 of my little package of parts. Looking at the open hearts for the stay collars on the bowsprit, I figured I'd try using a closed heart, sanding down the thickness, squaring off the hole and cutting the bottom end off. Presto... a quick and easy collar. I used a 10mm walnut heart from ME. I've also bought a package of 7mm hearts to use for the other stays, and I can use the kit supplied hearts for the bowsprit rigging. The kit says to use deadeyes for the lanyards, but they really should be hearts, and now I have a good supply. I tried to serve some line by hand too.... not very successfully.... I think a trip to the hobby shop is in order... I'm going to try to make my own machine, but I need parts that I don't have on hand... Andy
  16. Nice going... I wonder though, if you tried making your coils up on masking tape and then coating them with acrylic matte medium (no pins or nasty glue needed). If you remember, I did that for my gun tackles on Pegasus. Anyway, it all looks great. Andy
  17. Looks like you're off and rigging confidently now, Sjors Andy
  18. It's a lot of fun. Mind you, for her maiden voyage I didn't put up all the sails I could have... the lake is still just a bit to cold Andy
  19. I agree with you there.... Marine engineers are the oddest people I know.. Andy
  20. I heard you'd finished some planking.....I had to go back a few pages....it looks really nice. Andy
  21. Stink boat?! Who're you callin' a stink boat ?! Yes... I do still own my speed boat. She'll be launched some time in June. Andy
  22. Very nicely done. I really like your improvements to the stern and quarter galleries (and your step by step instructions) Andy
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