realworkingsailor

Another option, if you can get it, is acrylic matte medium:
 


The stuff I have comes from Scenic Express, it can be used as is, or diluted, and as advertised, dries to a matte finish. (You can kinda read the instructions on the bottle in the above photo).
 
Andy

Another option, if you can get it, is acrylic matte medium:
 


The stuff I have comes from Scenic Express, it can be used as is, or diluted, and as advertised, dries to a matte finish. (You can kinda read the instructions on the bottle in the above photo).
 
Andy

Another option, if you can get it, is acrylic matte medium:
 


The stuff I have comes from Scenic Express, it can be used as is, or diluted, and as advertised, dries to a matte finish. (You can kinda read the instructions on the bottle in the above photo).
 
Andy

Another option, if you can get it, is acrylic matte medium:
 


The stuff I have comes from Scenic Express, it can be used as is, or diluted, and as advertised, dries to a matte finish. (You can kinda read the instructions on the bottle in the above photo).
 
Andy

Hello, an update for progress over the last week or so.
 
The following pictures are all of small assemblies and little projects I have been doing whilst wrangling the stern into something I'm happy with; this is still not right, but that will form an update for another day.
 
So on with the bits and bobs I have done.  After spending some time looking at the NMM plans (specifically ZAZ6418 & ZAZ6422) I have decided to go ahead and add the additional fore hatch shown in those plans.  ZAZ6418 is of the series ZAZ6418-ZAZ6424 plans, but has a date that puts it contemporary with Trial actually having been built; if I'm reading the text properly it says Draft of Cutter "built" 9th September 1790, the other plans are variously described of plans of "proposed vessel with sliding keels" or plans "draught for building by contract" if anything.  So on that flimsy basis only, I'm going by this plan...  just flagging that up so I can be shot down for my variations! 
 
Got the sliding keels ready and also added little deck reinforcement pieces to match those shown on the plans and sections; fashioned from the leftover 0.8mm wood.
 
Gratings, as I was making an additional one I had to go with some from Caldercraft so they all look alike, Chris's look crisper, but to compensate I did try to construct the Head ledges and side combings as best I could to match the details supplied in various posts here on MSW.  The other minor detail I have gone for is to have the anchor cables enter via the main hatch.  The centreline fore hatch is in front of the galley and the additional one I have added goes to the compartment that leads to the Boatswain's, Gunner's & Carpenter's store rooms.  On ZAZ6422 the plan shows what look like at least five transverse bulkheads that have no doors or openings in them to allow crew/stores movement from stem to stern; perhaps a strengthening addition for the sliding keels, or additional compartments as the sliding keels were a bit "leaky" 😱 - don't know pure speculation on my part.
 
The Mainmast and Bowsprit bitts are not fixed permanently yet.
 
Thanks for all the likes and comments, next time I might be brave enough to share what I've done to the stern...🤫 - not all of it planned...

Post One Hundred and Thirty-one
 
Completing the Carronades.
One of the most tiresome aspects of completing the carronades is assembling the iron straps and breeching rings. 2mm ø Amati rings were used.

3268

3272
These are tiny things attached to the side of the bed and I found it useful to hold the beds in an angled vice to perform the attachment, using ca.

3273
With the Iron work completed, the barrels are glued into place.
I have set the bed to the inboard position as I prefer it to the ‘outboard’ look.

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Following a test fit on the deck, the carronades will be squirrelled away as work continues.

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Relieved this tiresome aspect is completed, but more tedium beckons with the ironwork for the inner bulwarks.
 
 
B.E.
16/01/2024
 

Very nice Kevin! 
 
Looking forward to when you do get around to building the carriages. I know the feeling when you want to build something, but not the project you’re working on.  A much needed mental reset!
 
Andy

 
 

I finished adding the rock faces and blending them into the landscape with the Scupltamold. I have to work with small batches because the setting time is very short; I only seem to get about ten minutes before it becomes too difficult to work.
I added the spur and the rock plug that are featured in the drone video. The rock plug is a bit too close to the end of the wall but I don't have any more depth on the baseboard. Cliff effects were added to this too. Finally rocks were added to the slopes and the edge of the pathway roughly in line with the real landscape.
This will be left to dry for a day. Work calls tomorrow and the Woodland Scenic parcel should arrive then too.




I think the next task will be to add the grass. I have the Woodland Scenics fine yellow grass for the majority of the landscape with some green added in shady areas.
 
This will be a new experience for me. I have used the material on small areas and brushed adhesive on to the base. This time I'm thinking about using a spray bottle loaded with what seems to be commonly called "scenic glue". Woodland Scenics make their own but I have also read that the same adhesive can be arrived at by diluting white glue with four parts water or four parts alcohol (isopropyl variety rather than the maple bourbon). Does anyone have any experiences or preferences with these varieties. It also seems that once applied the grass should be sprayed with the scenic glue to bed it down. The alcohol based variant is claimed to have better wetting and penetrating power. Some tests are going to be necessary. 
I am going to need to be fairly careful with these next steps. I don't think I dare invert the model to get rid of excess loose turf. It would use this years and next years allowance of bad language if the towers parted company with the base
Thank you all fotr looking in and all the comments
 
Alan
 
 

Finishing the hatch covers:
 
Today marks the official end of the 2023 Great Lakes Shipping season.  Vessels arriving at the queue for the  SOO locks by midnight will be locked through in either direction.  After that the locks will close until March 25 isolating Lake Superior from the other lakes.  It has been a good season with the twin ports of Duluth, MN and Superior WI shipping 51 Million tons of pelletized iron ore to American and Canadian steel miles. The ports also handled significant quantities of limestone, cement, coal, and grain.
 
The reason for the lakes’ 10 week closure each winter is not ice. Great Lakes vessels can and do navigate in ice.  The 10 week closure is required to perform maintenance that has been deferred during the shipping season.  Superior, Wisconsin is home to one of three active American drydocks on the lakes.  It can dock vessels up to 800ft long.  This winter will be busy.  Eight vessels are scheduled to lay up in the harbor here.
 
The layup each winter means that Great Lakes ships are and in the past have been well maintained.  That, and the fact that they sail in fresh water means that  weathering of the model will be minimal.  A notable exception is the Noble’s hatch covers.  The few photos that I have found of wooden hatch covers of Great Lakes vessels show a checkerboard of different weathered colors that vary from like new wood to black.
 
The first step in finishing the covers was to drill holes in them for the ringbolts. This was done using the sensitive drilling attachment mounted in the Sherline milling column.  Another of my simple wooden jigs assured correct location.  (First Photo).  Adding the two ringbolts to each cover was then just the matter of pushing the tail through the hole, bending it over and securing it with a dab of lacquer based fingernail polish. (Second photo).
 
To finish the covers I mixed up five different grey and black pigments and diluted them with alcohol.  For a couple of shades I added some granulated grey and black dry dye pigment to add a gritty texture. (Third photo). The different colored hatch covers will be arranged in a random pattern when they are added to the model.
 
Finally, (Forth Photo) two stacks of hatch covers to be fastened near the ship’s open coal bunker.
 

Roger
 

It’s worth pointing out that polyurethane resin is not UV stable. Over a relatively short period of time, when exposed to UV light, “white” resin will yellow drastically (to a rather familiar pale yellow colour), and become very brittle. I’m not sure what colour would result from unpainted grey or black resin, but it won’t be good.
 
Painting resin will eliminate any UV induced colour change, as well as helping to reduce any brittleness.
 
Andy

Hi,
I went on with the main airframe, I wanted to apply the remaining aluminium paint on the underside. The Italian painting scheme of the '70s had the underside painted with a matt aluminium which I am replicating with Metallic color 'white Aluminium' by Vallejo. The finish of this paint isn't matt, but it doesn't matter because it will be adjusted to the correct finish.
Here is the model ready to be sprayed:


Here the result:

The demarcations with the camouflage are quite ok, with only few oversprays to be addressed:

The overall look resembles quite well the scheme seen in period pictures (and it also matches my memories).
Now, while the paint cures, I will continue with the small parts.
Best regards,
Dan

It’s worth pointing out that polyurethane resin is not UV stable. Over a relatively short period of time, when exposed to UV light, “white” resin will yellow drastically (to a rather familiar pale yellow colour), and become very brittle. I’m not sure what colour would result from unpainted grey or black resin, but it won’t be good.
 
Painting resin will eliminate any UV induced colour change, as well as helping to reduce any brittleness.
 
Andy

Hi all,
 
Thanks for the previous Likes and Comments.
 
The terraforming etc continues.
 
The base of the scenario is a piece of chipboard. Glued on to that (with PVA) is stiff blue foam. To the left of the picture below is a pot of 'One strike filler'.... it has the consistency of stiff whipped cream and takes about 24 hrs to dry, but is easy to lay down and then reshape as it slowly hardens.

The back edge of the layout will be a hedged bank, with a small drainage ditch running at the foot of it.
 
The white filler applied.

 
Once the filler was dried, it was spayed matt black. A couple of concrete signposts are tentatively sited at the rear.

 

Above - Just to add some initial colour, the bank at the rear was painted dark green and the flat part a lighter green Some more filler was added to smooth out the area within the wall. The wall + gate were also darkened/weathered. The wall has been moved to the left.
 
Two pulled up signs are added. They would have been originally seated into a concrete filled hole. I chose 'Vire' and Caen' as the names on the signs. A red line on a French sign indicates one is leaving the town (...Caen). But whether these are the original signs for those locations is anyone's guess 😉  Hence the big discussion with the tank driver (?) and the soldier.

 
I have added a bottle of apple brandy to the farmer's hand. I later found out that his right hand is also shaped to hold a bottle...he is a generous chap!
 
So the above is the basic layout. I have yet to add soil to the road plus some grass, also add grass and a pathway inside the wall, and populate the banking with vegetation and grass. The sides of the layout will be enclosed in a thin wood veneer and painted black to tidy it all up. So still plenty to do.
 
Richard

Very nice Kevin! 
 
Looking forward to when you do get around to building the carriages. I know the feeling when you want to build something, but not the project you’re working on.  A much needed mental reset!
 
Andy

 
 

Very nice Kevin! 
 
Looking forward to when you do get around to building the carriages. I know the feeling when you want to build something, but not the project you’re working on.  A much needed mental reset!
 
Andy

 
 

It’s worth pointing out that polyurethane resin is not UV stable. Over a relatively short period of time, when exposed to UV light, “white” resin will yellow drastically (to a rather familiar pale yellow colour), and become very brittle. I’m not sure what colour would result from unpainted grey or black resin, but it won’t be good.
 
Painting resin will eliminate any UV induced colour change, as well as helping to reduce any brittleness.
 
Andy

Very nice Kevin! 
 
Looking forward to when you do get around to building the carriages. I know the feeling when you want to build something, but not the project you’re working on.  A much needed mental reset!
 
Andy

 
 

Nicely done, Kevin. Like Andy I'm interested in how these carriages turn out.

Very nice Kevin! 
 
Looking forward to when you do get around to building the carriages. I know the feeling when you want to build something, but not the project you’re working on.  A much needed mental reset!
 
Andy

 
 

Very nice Kevin! 
 
Looking forward to when you do get around to building the carriages. I know the feeling when you want to build something, but not the project you’re working on.  A much needed mental reset!
 
Andy

 
 

The landscaping continues. The lay up of kitchen towels soaked in diluted white glue was completed but the pattern of the towels was too visible so I added a layer of toilet paper which also had the advantage that it could be moved around with the brush to create undulations and contours in the basic shapes. Once dry I gave it a coat of gesso to give it a good surface for adding plaster or paint.
I had made a series of rock face formations using plaster of Paris and crumpled kitchen foil which turned out quite nicely. I have started building up teh cliff faces with them. I am using Sculptamold to stick them to the formers and also to fill in and blend the pieces. \

The cheap artists palette knives are working really well. I'm glad I bought them
 

I had originally planned to do the grass effects and then add the boulders to the hillsides but I think that is going to look a bit artificial and the boulders will look too separate so I will add them as part of this current activity. I will try to mask them while the grass is being added. Another shipment of Woodlands Scenics is expected shortly
I'm also trying to decide on the base colour for the areas beyond the cliffs. I plan to use yellow grass and thinking a light grey base might work better than tan or brown.  Darker green bushes will also be added and the limestone rocks will rise out of the grass
 
Thanks for looking in, all the likes and comments. Its starting to feel like I'm actually achieving something.
 
Alan

good evening everyone
thank you for comments add likes
well the desire to do a non ship quick build has been done, and for now the build is complete, i will come back to her one day and add the extra carriages, but this is what i wanted to do for now
 
vajello black primer
 
rattle cans
Halfords Red Primer
VW Mars Red No.2
Rover British Racing Green Metallic
Halfords Ford Arizona Gold
 
 

It’s worth pointing out that polyurethane resin is not UV stable. Over a relatively short period of time, when exposed to UV light, “white” resin will yellow drastically (to a rather familiar pale yellow colour), and become very brittle. I’m not sure what colour would result from unpainted grey or black resin, but it won’t be good.
 
Painting resin will eliminate any UV induced colour change, as well as helping to reduce any brittleness.
 
Andy

It’s worth pointing out that polyurethane resin is not UV stable. Over a relatively short period of time, when exposed to UV light, “white” resin will yellow drastically (to a rather familiar pale yellow colour), and become very brittle. I’m not sure what colour would result from unpainted grey or black resin, but it won’t be good.
 
Painting resin will eliminate any UV induced colour change, as well as helping to reduce any brittleness.
 
Andy

It’s worth pointing out that polyurethane resin is not UV stable. Over a relatively short period of time, when exposed to UV light, “white” resin will yellow drastically (to a rather familiar pale yellow colour), and become very brittle. I’m not sure what colour would result from unpainted grey or black resin, but it won’t be good.
 
Painting resin will eliminate any UV induced colour change, as well as helping to reduce any brittleness.
 
Andy