jaerschen

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 95 – Main Deck Ledges, Planksheer
 
The first picture shows the last of the work on the main deck ledges.
 

 
The seats for the last row of ledges have been cut into the carlings and outside lodging knees.  The next picture shows the completed main deck framing.
 
 

 
The planksheer was the next order of business.  This rail caps and seals off the tops of the frames at the weather deck - the main deck.  On the outside it defines the sheer line of the ship.  Internally it rests on the 11” deep main deck waterway.  It would seem to make sense to install the waterways first, but to facilitate painting I decided to install the planksheer then slip the waterway underneath it later.  In the next picture a strip of pine representing the waterway is being used to check the height of the upper futtocks prior to setting the planksheer.
 

 
The cutoff heights of the upper futtocks were checked earlier and trimmed to match the lower edge of the planksheer rail.  However, since the heights of the deck beams at the side evolved somewhat independently when the deck clamps were set, there was certainly room for discrepancies.  After a fair amount of measuring, remeasuring and some adjustments, the first section of rail was ready to be installed.  This is shown below.
 

 
The 6" rail is a molded section with three beads.  The lower two are half the diameter of the upper.  The rail was formed with a simple scraper.  The real planksheer was installed in one of two ways.  It could be mortised to fit over the toptimbers or it could be made in two halves each notched to fit around the toptimbers from either side.  To avoid all of this precision notching or mortising, I install the rail on one side, then fit blocks between the timbers, and then fit the opposite side – trying to make the joints relatively invisible.  This will all be painted so there is no issue in this case.  The next picture shows some blocks installed between frames.
 

 
These also strengthen the joint between the frames and the inner rail.  After the glue had dried these were sanded flush to the side.  The tops were filed off horizontal and flush with the top of the inside rail. 
The next picture shows part of the starboard planksheer at this stage.
 

 
The last step is to install and finish off the exterior rail as shown in the next picture.
 

 
There is a similar rail a few feet up – the main rail – and then another capping rail – the fancy rail – fitted to the tops of the toptimbers.
 
 
Ed

Mouse making method
After trying out several methods I found just building up layers of serving gave the best results with a dilute coat of PVA to set the mouse after finishing the tail, I then continued to the end of the serving from the tail end, I then served the other end i.e. from the beginning to the head of the mouse, the stay was completed by adding the loop at the end.
Mouse on machine


mouse made

stay loop

mouse & loop

Thought this to be an interesting shot. I was wanting to get a profile only of the wale to see if it looked correct. Got what I wanted plus the photo:
 
 

Wow, a class of its own Karl.

Hello friends,
new pictures of the BHR.
Karl
 
 
T e i l    5 5

Hi Guys
 
It's done, all the frames are fitted and even the starboard side is a bit sanded.
 

 
The next step is sanding, sanding sanding,..........oh I hate it.
 

Thanks so much for the nice comments Daniel and Nigel and also for all the likes.
 
@Daniel
In terms of this Triton build the most are means the double frame is much easier than the single frame. But I believe that isn't so. I think single frame have a great vantage, to get the right shape of the hull is much easier than in double frame. Although single frame is more time consuming. In relation of the optic I'm with you.

Hello Guys
 
Sanding needs much more time as I thought. I began to fit the stern-timbers to have some change.
 

 
Now it goes on with sanding

Hi Siggi.
From what I can tell her rails are running with the outside sheer. Here is a photo from her plans and another photo showing  what I built. Easier to tell when they are side to side. Might just have to take another hard look. Siggi it might be the angle I took the photo at, maybe a little on the high side.
Gary
 

Hi Mark.
Just want to say thanks for all the great photo's sir along with all the other folks photo's, they are a great help in figure out some of the items and hope you get to take more of them in the future. I did lower the leading edge of the top front rail maybe a hair or two to follow the planking behind it which does run with the sheer and used it as a stright edge. Does seem to have brought it more in line. Lowering it two much just might  mess with the items above it. You are so right Mark it is the viewpoint.One can look at it from a thousand view's and still not get it right, having your eyes and others as another set of eyes really help's to see what one doesn't.  I found out some times leveling something depends on how other items look around it which sometimes are not level. Here is a old and new showing the top rail forward edge. At the moment it is just pinned in place in case I need to take off another hair or two. 
Gary
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for your thoughtful comments as well as for just dropping buy, always a pleasure and a source of encouragement.
 
Continuing with the cannon doors;
 
All doors have been sized given the minor size variations on the ports. As Nigel pointed out, my errors were actually in keeping with the way Vasa was probably assembled given its early 16th century birth. Love it when my errors turn out to be OK J
 
Started to put together the opening and closing rope pulls, getting there, need 100 altogether. For the much less visible opening pulls (doors will be open almost vertically) I will only do a single rope wrap not a double, as I’m doing for the closing ropes
 
Those nails will double as the door hinges
 
Using the Proxxon to drill through the door and the inserts. I will use the same hole for the pull and pull eyelets.
Again, thanks for taking your time following along, dropping in or just passing by.
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Thanks for the kind comments Ben, John, Sherry, Piet, David, George, Greg, Nils and Popeye - much appreciated .
 
 
Nils - the holes in the Tops are just large enough to slip over the shrouds.
 
Fore Mast Shrouds
 
With the completion of the Fore Mast ones I've finished fitting all the lower shrouds :
 

 

 

 

 

 
My apologies for the poor quality of the pics - it's very difficult to take good ones with the lighting and backgrounds in my caravan .
 
  Danny

Thanks Mario and Dave.
 
 Mario your so right sir and work has kept me away from Montagu but I do look in on the site, to help me get through those times when there wasn't enough time to do any ship building. Things have eased up a bit the last month and have been working on the stern and the thirty two pounders which have all been installed and have a few more tackles to make up for them. In the mean time the stern upper and lower counter curves have kept me busy trying to get their curves just right. Seems every time I thought I had it right, found a part that didn't look just right and tore  it off just to redo it.
 
 To me if those curves are not right your eyes lets you know, and every thing else is built upon those curves. So getting them right was high on the list. A make or break sort of item. Some thing that helped was the ideal that I got out of Davids new book the fire ship comet, the quarter gallery berthing piece on page 111. He talks about how he mount this on Comet so figure I would try it. After making 3 of them, I finally manage to make a port and stbd that fit the bill and this in turn help big time in getting her upper and lower counter curves to lay proper.
 
 In the process the top plank on the lower counter was a little shy on meeting the rail of the lower counter and had to make a new one. Not glueing the planks in place and held by a small amount of glue on tree nails made pulling it off a lot less nerve racking. One thing about building up the curves of the quarter gallery is figuring out the curve of them. But there is hope for finding their curve  at least the one I came up with. English plans only show one pattern for this curve and that is on the quarter deck level, but is bigger then the ones that fit the upper deck. Taking their size off of the stern and sheer view and using the quarter deck pattern one can get it real close in size, which I do believe Montagu is just right. Sorry about the long delay in a up date. 
 
 Gary 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Here is a few on the cannon's. Hope you enjoy them.
 
Gary



 
 

I've got the pieces for one frame cut and sanded. I got pretty close to the line in some spots and may redo this one. I'll still assemble and glue it up. I need to start thinking about how that's going to happen. I guess the next step is to read through some of the other logs and get some frame glue-up/assembly jig ideas.
 
v/r,
Rob
 

Jadzo,
 
Thanks for your kind remarks. Regarding the figures, no no primer was use. I just washed the figures, and using hobby paint just applied it directly upon the gilded metal. All the colors adhered very easily.
 
Thanks for dropping by.
 
MIchael

Hi Mates,
 
Continuing with cannon door assemblies; I first looked through the 60 or so inserts that I cut out looking for those that would fit right away. Found a few, some minor edge sanding, and then glued the outer parts of the doors with the inner trim pieces.
 
Used a bit of painters tape to stabilize the outer doors from moving to make it easier to adjust the inner parts before the glue set.
 
Noted their locations and then used hobby masking tape to fix them to their correctly adjusted places. I know that if I had not taped them on my location drawing, for sure the paper would move and well…you know (;-)
 
This bit is sort of fun, though I have to figure out how to drill in two eyelets for the ropes (opening and closings). I’m thinking of using only one eyelet and then curving the backside that will face the hull. This is probably destined to create breakage. I have very little working room after the lions are glued into place,
 
Two eyelet pieces one on each side is probably the best solution….attach the ropes, then the hinges followed by the lion heads.??
 
Yes, I need complete the chain plate bits first, been very lazy with this, though as you can see its been started. The other side has been completed for all three masts.
 
Thanks again for dropping by.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hi guys (m/f) ;-)
 
The finished setup:
 

 

 

 
on the sides there will be two more pieces of carving..
 
Best,
Michiel

Hello Christian and Nils
 
Much thanks for your nice comments.
I can think of no better job

Juergen,
 
a beautiful build and very nice hull lines of the Triton....
 
Nils

I think you have a nw hobby, Jürgen.
Sanding, sanding

Some wonderfully clean and crisp wood work Juergen!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

CONGRATULATIONS Jürgen!!
 
She actually looks like the first proper built HMS Triton on this forum. The rest of us have to comform with the double frame method that is less pleasent to look at... (smile)
 
Beatiful framing again!
 
 
daniel.

Fantastic work and I am here feeling very intimidated about starting the section build

Congrats for reaching this milestone, Jürgen. Your hull looks really impressive. I am nosey to see your hull when we meet next year .