jaerschen

If I fit the transoms I had a big trouble. The reason was a wrong angle at the top-view plan.
On the following photo you can see the correct angle and the discrepancy.

 
If I know that it was possible to fit transoms.







 

Hello guy's
 
I will start my build of the Triton again.
Christian (AnobiumPunctatum) and I are started our builds in 2009. But we built the hull in single frame and not in double frame based of the original drawings (Christians idea). It was originally planned to use the MSW frame drawings. But I realized during the build of the fore cant frames that the MSW frame drawings were not suitable for a single frame build. That's why I had a break for about 4 years. Now I pencilled all the frames new and would like to continue the build of the frames. After the frame build I'll use the MSW drawings for the remaining build.
Now there are some photos from The keel, stern apron etc.
 







 
More photos are following soon

Update.. we ain't dead in the water yet..!!!
 
After milling my wood, I spent a fair amount of time sorting out how to put this together.. the wales.  There's 12 strakes that start off a 3/32" thick and as they go down to the main hull planking, they thin to 1/16" which is the "normal" planking thickness.  Above the main wales, the upper works planking is 1/32" thick. 
 
After much experimentation and sorting things out, my approach is below. 
 
First two pics are how I clamp things down...

 
This one shows the actual planking...  hang with me, there's issues that I know have to be resolved due to some gaps.
 
1) is the second strake of wales. Solid swiss pear.
2) is the underlayment of 1/32" thick Swiss Pear. This is for the top strake of wales.
3) is the first of the planking for the upper works.  Forward of the first port will be heavier planking going from the wales upward
(last photo which is from Karl's build of Bohomme Richard.)
4) Ebony for the top wale.  It's 1/16" thick to make it easier to bend than the full thickness of the strake. 
 

 
The issues are the end of the ebony needs adjusting. For some reason it drooped while getting it into place.  And there's piece near the stem on the second wale where pear split.   I'm not overly concerned about it as the bolster for the hawse pipes goes over that.  The whole thing will need sanding and smoothing but for now, I'm going to continue on and finish running these to the stern and then get the other side done.  I'm also still sorting out clamps. Seems I broke two frames in the process of getting things glue up.  I have to not put so much force on those clamps.
 
As always, feel free to click on the pics to enlarge and criticism, different ideas, etc. are always welcome.  I'm still learning this stuff.

Hello,
here is the continuation of the building report:
 
The breeching rope is attached to the bulwark with strong staples.
Here I show you the making of these staples made of brass wire with a diameter of 1 mm.

 
The staples outboard be screwed with square nuts, as shown in the following picture.

Thank you very much B.E. ,
 
when looking at the close up yard tip, I recognized that I had by mistake tied the topsail sheet, one turn around the upper lift line. Its not obvious to see, for someone who does`nt know, but it looks at me now. As the line-ends have been snipped off already, I Would have to put new lines on to get that one mended. Decision : leave as is...
 
Nils
 
 

 
....not free from mistakes....
 
 

 
Skylight simply glued to deck, and tabernacle tied down on deck
 
 

 
beginning to clean up the line ends, all belaying places on gallows posts rail occupied now
 
 

 
close up at the port quarter
 
 

 
helmsman working place

Hello friends.
Manufacture of ropes for the shrouds of the main mast.
Regards Karl
 
 
 
 
T e i l  5 7

Catharpins were made up using Dan Vadas' HMS Vulture example as a guide but of course aren't nearly as neat.

Part 2
The yards with the stun-sails booms have domed end brackets with legs, these do require some fettling, I first thinned the legs both inside and outside as they are way to thick to start with,they were glued to the end of the yard, and reshaped  (see photos) I then added the rope lashings, I then made a dummy stun sail boom ( the real ones will made from hard wood dowel) to allow the brackets to be aligned, next the mid yard boom brackets were fixed to the yard in conjunction with the outer boom brackets which are not yet glued in, both brackets were set up so that the the rear edge of the boom is over the front edge of the yard which allows the 3mm blocks to be added later, and for them to be in the centre of the top of the yard. I then drilled a hole to the rear of the yard at the centre and added a 1-2mm pin to allow the yard  to be fitted to the mast.
 
Yard end bracket as supplied

 
After rework

 
Yard brackets on with dummy boom

 
All brackets and cleats added

 
 

Main Topmast Stays
 
There is a preventer stay as well as a main stay for the topmast. These were made in similar fashion to the mizzen topmast stay. There is a Violin block attached to the lower end. I made these from one piece of stock the same way I make the Sister blocks :
 

 

 

 
The stays are served where they go around the mast head and for a few scale feet below the mouse. A Collar is used to hold a lead block to the mast. The preventer stay block is fitted just below the foremast hounds. This would have been considerably easier to fit on the bench before I'd fitted the mast top :
 

 
Here are a few pics of the main topmast stay ready for fitting :
 

 

 

 

 
And some more of both stays fitted. The preventer stay goes on first :
 

 

 
The lead block for the main topmast stay has a collar which could be slipped over the fore mast head. This pic was taken well after I'd fitted the stay - the fore topmast and shrouds had been fitted when I took the pic :
 

 
The sister blocks and their tackle at the foot of the fore mast. Hooks are used to attach the lower blocks to the eyebolts in the deck :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks for the comments John, Shaun, Juergen and Ray .
 
Main Topmast Shrouds
 
Before fitting any of the shrouds the topmast Burton Pendants needed to be made and fitted. These are served all over  I turned the thimbles on the lathe :
 

 
The four sets of shrouds were made up and fitted the same as the mizzen topmast shrouds. Once again the foremost ones are served for their entire length and the others for the uppermost parts :
 

 

 

 
The Backstay is separate from the shrouds and terminates on the aft section of the channel :
 

 
A Sister Block is lashed between the two foremost shrouds. I made these from a single piece of stock in the same way I make "normal" blocks. After first cutting the basic shape on the table saw most of the finish shaping work was done with an Xacto knife :
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

The Yards Part 1
The yards,the larger yards have octagonal center sections, and the ones I made when building Pegasus I thought were only just about acceptable, and the way I made those was to file the octagon shape from the dowel. I decided to try a different method for Diana s yards,the two yard sizes, at the large diameter point, are 8mm & 6mm, I tried my new method on a mock up yard in 8mm which proved successful so this is how they were made.
I cut the dowel over length by 20mm, I then ran some tape around the dowel at the ends of the center section,then started to reduce the out ends ( mainly to allow the dowel to go into the small lathe further) I the reduced the center section down from 8mm to 6.8mm, and then I laid in four 4mm x 1mm wood strips top & bottom and both sides,then when dry filled in the gaps with wood filler,when the filler was dry  I filed clean the wood strips, and then filed the filled gaps so that all sides where the same width,this gives a really nice octagonal center section and at 8.5mm just .5mm over size I can live with that.
The next step was to shape and tapper the yard from the octagonal section to the ends in my model lathe, then I cut off the 10mm over length each end to give a nice square end. I made all the yard cleats from ABS plastic adding them as oversized bits and filing to shape when dry. I then added some tape around the octagonal part to simulate the iron bands.
 
Reduced center


 
Building up the center



 
Center now octagonal



 
With cleat and band

The lower shrouds have been rigged and lanyards tied. The foremost shroud was seized it's entire length and the rest seized on the uppermost portion down to about where the catharpins will be.

About time for an update.
 
After playing around with different configurations (wire, wood, rope), I finally decided on using the photoetched stanchions and some line for the companionway railings.  I'll use this throughout:
 

 
The photo also shows a glimpse of the second of the aft bulkheads and the permanently installed capstan and pawls.
 
The next 8 deck beams for the quarterdeck were also installed, including lodging and hanging knees:
 

 

 
Finally, just an overall shot:
 

 
There are several more decks beams to go in to finish the quarterdeck but first we need to prepare some deck fittings.
 
 

I can only endorse speeches that have just been made, outstanding craftsmanship.

I can only endorse speeches that have just been made, outstanding craftsmanship.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 105 – Planking and Wales continued
 
The exterior planking is now finished – except for treenails.  The next phase of work will involve a lot of disparate tasks to prepare for the work on the main deck.  There is much to be done before that can start.
 
In the last post, I showed the cabin lights being drilled through the outside planking.  The first picture shows the inboard planking on the cabin deck with the holes and two temporary brass ports fitted for size.
 

 
The cabin deck will house 19 cabins, two WC’s and an open central area – plus a staircase from the main deck.  All of this is speculative but very typical of the class.  Cabin finishes were usually quite ornate – no holds barred on fancy woods, gilt, carvings, etc.  I don’t intend to go overboard on this, especially without any historical data, but I expect to panel the partitions, fit built in bedsteads and some cabinetwork.  This will come later but I wanted to make a choice on wood.  I am assuming mahogany and intend to represent it with black walnut as shown above.  It has the look of old Cuban mahogany – to me at least.  except for the above, this will all come later.
 
While the model was upright, the waterways were made and fitted.  In the next picture a forward segment has been boiled for bending and is drying.  These will be pre-fitted with scarphs, but cannot be installed until the bulwark interiors are painted.
 

 
The next picture shows the starboard forward section after drying – just prior to making its joint with the next segment.
 

 
The painting order is dictating events at this stage.  First the outboard planking above the planksheer will be painted black, The white main rail will then be installed, allowing the inboard bulwarks to be painted white.  The blue waterways can then be installed and work can proceed on the main deck – a lot of complications to avoid painting different colors on adjacent areas after assembly.
 
The next picture shows work that is necessary before painting the waist planking.
 

 
The eagle and the vinery on either side are made with epoxy sculpting material.  (I could never manage this in wood.) When cured, the material is very hard, but brittle - so the work is done in two steps.  In the first step the rough sculpting shown above was done on a curved form so the parts could be removed and fit on to the stern without bending. The next picture shows the carving work glued to the starboard side. 
 

 
Once glued down the carvings could then be further refined with small tools as shown below.
 

 
This work mostly involved thinning the greenery to be more delicate.  All of this relief carving will be gilded.
 
The next picture shows the finished planking on the port side.
 

 
The planking to be painted first is above the lower channels.  At this stage those areas are being sealed for final sanding.  Masking tape will keep the paint confined above the planksheer for now.  The stern carvings have been primed with black to make sure the black acrylic adheres to the epoxy.
 
In the last picture the main rail around the stern has been painted as a test and is being fitted into its slot – just temporarily until the surrounding black is painted.
 

 
So – a lot of niggling little tasks to break up the monotony of treenailing – but progress nonetheless.
  
Ed

Greg,here is a picture of the display case.  These wrap around two corners of the room.  Hannah in the center of the picture with her NRG medal.  To the left is an incomplete model of Amati's Prince which I started back in 1984-ish and never completed because of the inadequacy of the plans.  The reflected ship is Dapper Tom.  I forget which kit manufacturer.
 

 
I have finished the rest of the hull friezes.  Extra material was left around the quarter badge, as I am not sure how this will exactly fit. 

 

Here I’ve completed the decorative rail on top of the quarter galleries. My rail, Chucks has 3, has
4 decorative pieces in it  . My curve was a little bolder so it ended up too long for three so I
modified it to make four fit. I’ve decided to leave well enough alone with the windows. They won’t
be installed until much later as there is a lot of sanding and they will just trap dust and debris.
 

 

 
The only thing left to do for now on the galleries is to make the decorative columns. I am waiting
on a .016 kerf saw blade so I can cut flutes down the face of each column. 
 
That will complete chapter 6.
 
That will also catch me up to where Chuck is at right now. That will leave me time to work on
some other models I’ve shoved to the side. Also my daughter is moving to another house next
month and I have a looooooooong “Daddy do” list that will keep me quite busy for the foreseeable
future.
 
I just have to remember how to work at full scale again!  
 
 
 
 

Except for 2 dolphins and 1 set of flowers, we have a good idea of what the side view will look like.
As for the white background , for a piece of 8 feet large, I still need some practice

Here's some proof of life:
 

In the plastic bin... ebony and swiss pear for the main wales.  Ebony for the chain wailes and stern planking.  I'm going to laminate pear and ebony for the top strak of the main wales.
Next to the right, is the swiss pear for the rest of the wales (10 stakes) then swiss pear for the bulk of the hull planking, then there's the planking for above the wales and the upper works.
The strips on the bottom are for the garboard stakes and some spares for a bit of spiling.
 
The planking is made from pre-made strips and also from billets as not all the pre-made stuff was usable.
 
The planking pile doesn't look so intimidating now.
 
I'm going to make about dozen so more planking clamps today. 
 
Anyway, that's the plan.  But we all know about the best laid plans of mice and men....
 
 

Hi Shaun
 
It gives some other options to get the shrouds to a equal lenght. Here you can see a other one.

Hi Daniel,
 
I wish you also the best that you have time to build at the Triton soon.

Aldo!
 
HMS Pegasus   mothballed? And giving priority to the HMS Triton?!  Way to go!
 
Sometimes when I see my Triton covered with a blanket (mothballed?) to avoid all the dust and everything from the environment... I realized the amount of work done so far and I ask myself when something is done, finished, concluded... or it´s not.  I feel really happy just looking the Triton on its stage right now.
It´s just a thought.
 
Here´s an interesting pic to explore, let´s see how many mothballed guns are on the ships and subs.... I have counted 56...
 

 
 
Best wishes Aldo and keep going!
 
 
Daniel.

Hi Juergen,
 
very neat planking! Your Triton is coming good along! I like the color contrast between planks and frames. Very good!
 
Alex

Hello Guys and happy new year for all!
 
I am still alive but unfortunately I am not working on none of the projects... Lot´s of other things around are keeping me busy.
 
I am always around looking with "sane envy" how other logs are growing and growing...
 
TJ, I don´t underrstand your post, did I ask for that plan before? (with so many posts It´s easy to miss up a request or something) Thanks anyway...
 
Well, best wishes to all and hope to see you back posting something in a while!!
 
 
Daniel.