Mirabell61

Thanks Nils !!!!!
 
I almost like the job     
 
Sjors

Hello Sjors,
 
that coppering of your Agamemnon Looks beautiful, very nicely done...
 
Nils

Building log part 19
 
 
The building is now slowly coming to its end (two more additional log parts to go), this all was reflecting 2 years of much motivated fun in modeling
 
 
 
 
 

Bridge and wheelhouse Areas completed
 

 

forecastle- and aft poopdeck sun shading Framework attached
 

 
 

donkeyman at work
 

colour of rust stains at the scuppers could be improved
One optional thought : When I saw a Picture of her sistership (the USS Camden, ex Kiel) that was still bearing ratlines to the shrouds, that would provide nice authentic Appeal. Shall think about it
 

 

 

These two gigs represent the Positioning and Fixing soldering devices for the bow and Stern sun shelter constructions. The holes are not portholes, they provide hold to the mini laundry-clamps for Fixing the brass beams when soldering
 

This is what in my mind the to be exchanged Propellor in historic correct Version should look like. Perhaps I`ll build one in resin and have an Investment casting brass prop made...
 
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 20 to follow...

Hi Guys,
 
Just a quick update to let you know that I haven't fallen of the planet.
 
Rigging continues, all the main yards are made painted and fitted, the rigging is now completed on the main as far as I want to go at least at this moment in time.
 
I thought I would be clever and just put pegs on the ropes before tying off, so with all the yards rigged and a multitude of pegs hanging came the first headache.
I ended up almost making lace, the pegs got spun around each other and so the lace making had begun, the second headache was once all the lines were untangled where the hell do they go, they are all now tied of and trimmed so lessen learned, tie of as you go and avoid a whole lot of headache pills.  It still isn't getting any easier tying around the belaying pins, even with the approved tools and a few homemade efforts.
 
Next job is to make the fore and sprit yards, this will be done over the next day or so.
 
I have a few pics to show and as usual please give your honest thoughts and opinions, all are welcome.
 
These are the main yards prior to painting
 
 
Lace making
 
 
 
 
As I have said all these lines are now fixed and trimmed but no pics yet.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Zap and other companies make a product called debonder or super glue remover.  If your fingers are stuck together, your can squirt a bit on the bond and working it down, will allow you to pull your fingers apart without the skin coming off.  Rubbing it over super glue encrusted fingers will remove most if not all of the glue and you can then use soap and water.
 
Works the same with a product called liquid skin or liquid band-aid.  They are even using a super glue variant in surgery instead of sewing or staples.
 
Jeff

Somehow, I missed your build log, Nils. Thank you for sharing this beautiful example of the model maker's art!

Your kidding right? Getting glue off your fingers? That is what ship modeling is all about. I wouldn't know how it felt to NOT have glue on my finger tips hahahahahaha.
 
Mike

Hi Nils.  I'm totally gobsmacked!!!  What an incredible piece of workmanship, craftsmanship, precision and beauty that you've created.  The fact that you have a special family connection makes this ship even more special.. I hope that your children will treasure it as much as we have all enjoyed and marvelled at looking at your construction journey.
 
You are a seriously talented craftsman!
 
All the best. 

Wonderful work Omega,
 
fully understand your own attitude and meaning to scale and challenge, and you`ve done it masterly.
This schooner exhibited in a fine Display case will surely be a Little treasure in your home....
the White hull Color reminds me of a ivory carved  or bone carved model, like some maritime Museums display
Are you planing your next one ?
 
Nils

Thanks Mick!  Greatly appreciated.  I love working at this sort of small scale, because I love the challenge of trying to fit everything possible into the build.  It still doesn't mean that I've gotten everything right, as close examination of Ingomar will attest.  There are more than a few errors which will add to my learning curve for the next model.
 
Happy modelling and good luck with your ship.
 
all the best!

The kit's metallic ram has a nice side profile (it is shown on the right bottom corner of the kit ram picture) , however, the overall shape is rectangular tubular(same width from front to back). The greek ram is wider at the attaching point to the bow of the ship. There are also re-inforcement behind the ram(this is give the ancient ship their unique bow shape). This can be clearly seem from the front view of the reconstruction trireme ship- Olympia.
 
The kit's plan or instruction does not account for the re-inforcement behind the ram. This omission and the metallic ram shape made the bow shape awkward. This is an easy fix by adding needed enforcement planking behind the ram and reshape or scratch bulld a new ram.
 
Although the ship is about 20 inches long, it is about the same hull size as a 26 to 28 inches 18th century sail ship model (which includes the bowsprit and jib boom) as the trireme does not have those.
 
 

This seems to be the only available trireme kit. It is from a new Czech company - Dusek. I brought the kit because it is a trireme and curiosity about this new company's offering.
 
The kit turn out to be much better than I expected.
 
The laser cut bulkheads were nicely done, They fit perfectly without any adjustment. The plywood quality is very good. The laser scored deck verneer sheet was a surprise and superbly done. The wood verneeer quality is also top quality.
 
The kit comes with a simple(not a tone of wording), yet effective illustrated instruction booklet. The 1 to 1 ratio plans made the built easy.
 
There is one area the kit is lacking. The bow shape and the kit provided metallic ram is not satisfactory. Modification will need to be done to bring the model's bow to the correct shape (There is a modern full size reconstruction of the Greek Trireme- Olympias, which provides a very good reference for this- GOOGLE it)

Build log part 55
 
 
 
 
Here a Little status update.....
 
Those trestletree parts with their Slim dimensions looked extreme fragile to me, so I decided, for strength reasons to do them in Bamboo as well (are blackened anyhow afterwards).
 
After receiving the new rigging book the foremast bits have been equiped with cheekwise double-roller chucks to each post (They take the foremast lines for  jeers, clue, and Sheets.
The mast parts now are ready for attaching the appropriate blocks, shall start with the Standing rigging soon
 
Question to fellow modellers....
 
Lennarth Petersson`s very detailed book " Rigging Period Ship Models" Shows 4 sails over the frigate`s bowsprit and jib-boom
- fore staysail
- fore topmast staysail
- jib (sail)
- flying jib (sail)
Who knows and please would kindly tell me if  all 4 of These sails on a frigate apply for the Swan Class Sloops as well or perhaps less sails...
Many thanks....
 
Nils
 
 
 
 
 

So true Nils, the model is looking great and the mast are coming together nicely.
 
Michael

Hi Pete,
 
Thanks for your appreciative words
 
its running quite well in the Moment, and the rigging is very interesting to do. (learn by doing) Always have to think twice what line must be put on now  and where will be less Access to the belaying Points, blocks, etc. later on. I`m intending to Show the sails in braced mode, so all the involved lines will Need to be lead accordingly.
That will Show a cloud of sails from the leeward side, whilst a good Portion of the ships other Fitting out will be better visable from the windward side
 
Nils

Thank you for dropping in again Remco, Nils and Ben .
 
Lower Masts
 
Sometime soon I'm going to need the Masts for alignment purposes to go ahead with fitting the deadeyes to the channels. Up until now I've "made do" with a couple of "dummy" masts, but now it's time to make the real things .
 
I was lucky to buy one of the last of the Masting Packages for the "Swans" from Hobbymill about a year or so ago. As usual, Jeff's timber and packaging is EXCELLENT - there are TWO pieces supplied for every part needed in case of "oopsies" (I've already made one ).
 
The masts (and just about everything else) starts out as square stock - no dowels in this lot, that would have been counter-productive . Following usual practice for making "round" masts from square stock I marked out two sides with the taper required. I've also tapered the masts below deck as per the original. The pic below shows the marking out for the section between the Partners and the Heel :
 

 
After tapering these two faces with a chisel and sandpaper I marked out the other two and tapered them as well. Then I marked out each face for the edges where the "octagonalling" would finish. I cut the tapered square section into a tapered octagon using a "V" jig and a sharp chisel :
 

 

 
Then I rounded the octagon using a sanding block, and cut the lower tenon into it :
 

 
The Mast Head remains square for now - much more work to be done here later :
 

 
Fore and Main Lower Masts fitted to the ship :
 

 
Note - I had to make two Main Masts (the oopsie mentioned earlier). I'd made the main mast a bit too thin at the partners on the 1st one and wasn't happy with the result. Just as well that Jeff had supplied plenty of timber .
 
  Danny

Hi Nils, Incredible, I am amazed at the beautiful workmanship  every time I look at your Boat , Superbly done
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Build log part 55
 
 
 
 
Here a Little status update.....
 
Those trestletree parts with their Slim dimensions looked extreme fragile to me, so I decided, for strength reasons to do them in Bamboo as well (are blackened anyhow afterwards).
 
After receiving the new rigging book the foremast bits have been equiped with cheekwise double-roller chucks to each post (They take the foremast lines for  jeers, clue, and Sheets.
The mast parts now are ready for attaching the appropriate blocks, shall start with the Standing rigging soon
 
Question to fellow modellers....
 
Lennarth Petersson`s very detailed book " Rigging Period Ship Models" Shows 4 sails over the frigate`s bowsprit and jib-boom
- fore staysail
- fore topmast staysail
- jib (sail)
- flying jib (sail)
Who knows and please would kindly tell me if  all 4 of These sails on a frigate apply for the Swan Class Sloops as well or perhaps less sails...
Many thanks....
 
Nils
 
 
 
 
 

Build log part 54
 
 
Still doing the masting........
 
The Moderators must have changed the pic loadoing System, I ca`nt get my comments to the pics, will have to inform myself how to do... accordingly soon.
 
The lower fore- and mainmast are made frome spruce, the topmasts from  beech
The lower mizzen is beechwood und the upper mizzen is from bamboo.That was necessary to get the required strength into the fragile beams. The upmost mizzen-pole is spruce and can be slipped in and out of the socket of the underneath mast Portion.
 
The upper cheek areas under the top platforms  shall be blackend as well, including the upmost woolding. The platforms have gotten safety netting.
 
The shroud resting batten-Cages are Special and complete soft soldered from the recently made squarebands and 8 pieces of 0,8 mm brass wire. I think those shall be left in brass and not blackend
 
 
Build log part 55 to follow...
 
 
Nils
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Build log part 55
 
 
 
 
Here a Little status update.....
 
Those trestletree parts with their Slim dimensions looked extreme fragile to me, so I decided, for strength reasons to do them in Bamboo as well (are blackened anyhow afterwards).
 
After receiving the new rigging book the foremast bits have been equiped with cheekwise double-roller chucks to each post (They take the foremast lines for  jeers, clue, and Sheets.
The mast parts now are ready for attaching the appropriate blocks, shall start with the Standing rigging soon
 
Question to fellow modellers....
 
Lennarth Petersson`s very detailed book " Rigging Period Ship Models" Shows 4 sails over the frigate`s bowsprit and jib-boom
- fore staysail
- fore topmast staysail
- jib (sail)
- flying jib (sail)
Who knows and please would kindly tell me if  all 4 of These sails on a frigate apply for the Swan Class Sloops as well or perhaps less sails...
Many thanks....
 
Nils
 
 
 
 
 

Build log part 55
 
 
 
 
Here a Little status update.....
 
Those trestletree parts with their Slim dimensions looked extreme fragile to me, so I decided, for strength reasons to do them in Bamboo as well (are blackened anyhow afterwards).
 
After receiving the new rigging book the foremast bits have been equiped with cheekwise double-roller chucks to each post (They take the foremast lines for  jeers, clue, and Sheets.
The mast parts now are ready for attaching the appropriate blocks, shall start with the Standing rigging soon
 
Question to fellow modellers....
 
Lennarth Petersson`s very detailed book " Rigging Period Ship Models" Shows 4 sails over the frigate`s bowsprit and jib-boom
- fore staysail
- fore topmast staysail
- jib (sail)
- flying jib (sail)
Who knows and please would kindly tell me if  all 4 of These sails on a frigate apply for the Swan Class Sloops as well or perhaps less sails...
Many thanks....
 
Nils
 
 
 
 
 

Many thanks Martin,
 
its still plenty of time, until I get to the front sails, ist only important to know this upfront, due to the number of sheaves up in the foremast. I asumed already that 4 frontsails would be too much for the 14 gun sloop, so the admiralty Budget saves the cost for the flying jib here.
 
The main and the fore lower Yards are held up by jeers (next to the lifts). I`m wondering why there is additionaly the need for a sling at Yard Center to the lower mast top caps. This is shown in my book as well. Probably it is a safety device, should the jeers once fail...
The mizzen has only the sling for horizontal Yard Elevation anyhow.
 
I`ll be starting with the mizzen shrouds now...
 
Nils

Hi Nils -- It's looking good.  As for the rigging question, I find references in David Antscherl's FFM IV (the rigging volume) to all of these sails and their rigging except for the flying jib.  I don't have a copy of Steel to hand, but am sure others would know what that source includes.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

Build log part 55
 
 
 
 
Here a Little status update.....
 
Those trestletree parts with their Slim dimensions looked extreme fragile to me, so I decided, for strength reasons to do them in Bamboo as well (are blackened anyhow afterwards).
 
After receiving the new rigging book the foremast bits have been equiped with cheekwise double-roller chucks to each post (They take the foremast lines for  jeers, clue, and Sheets.
The mast parts now are ready for attaching the appropriate blocks, shall start with the Standing rigging soon
 
Question to fellow modellers....
 
Lennarth Petersson`s very detailed book " Rigging Period Ship Models" Shows 4 sails over the frigate`s bowsprit and jib-boom
- fore staysail
- fore topmast staysail
- jib (sail)
- flying jib (sail)
Who knows and please would kindly tell me if  all 4 of These sails on a frigate apply for the Swan Class Sloops as well or perhaps less sails...
Many thanks....
 
Nils
 
 
 
 
 

Well I was a bit concerned about the resolution and whether the laser would cut too much, but luckily it seems that the line was fine enough to not be too much of an issue. And Michael- I've been following your pilot cutter for ages and it's one of the most beautiful projects on the site! I definitely thought of it when I decided to build Annie.