Rick310
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I went ahead and made the lifeboat davits due to concerns that George (GAK) had about the placement of the davits on the mizzen channels on his model. I also had to face the fact that I have been avoiding dealing with the issue of the lifeboats. I don’t like the ones that came with the kit and I didn’t want to use plastic and size of the boats was crucial for placement of the davits and arrangement on the top of the fore cabin. The davits were made from 1/16 inch brass rod. It should have been 3/64 inch but I picked up the wrong rod and didn’t realize it until they were fabricated. Hopefully these will work, but if not, they were relatively easy to make. I used 3/32 inch double blocks from Syren and strapped them with 28 gauge copper wire. The hooks were also made from 28ga copper wire. They were rigged with line also from Syren. The cleats and fair leads were made from 30 ga copper wire and soldered to the davit. Cleats should be on the outside of the davit but it was easier to solder them to the back of the davit. The eye at the top was made from brass tube soldered on to the end . I found strapping the blocks this way to be difficult and frustrating. It was my plan to strap almost all the blocks this way but now have to rethink this. I attached the hooks on the lower blocks to the cleats to keep them from tangling and out of the way. The davits have not been cut to length yet. I also made the brackets for the forward davits. These were made from rectangular brass tube per EdT. Next up we’re the fire buckets and their racks. The fire buckets were turned on the lathe using some cherry I had. I needed 8 but ended up turning 20 to get 8 as there was a definite learn curve associated with making them. These were stained with Ipswich pine stain as both mahogany and walnut stained made the look black. The handles were made from 28 gauge brass wire. I was going to blacken them but like the brass look. The racks were made from boxwood and painted white. These were glued to the deck of the aft cabin per the plans. I have seen these buckets painted red or white but I liked the look of them stained bright. Call it artistic license.
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Congratulations George on a job well done!!! Rick
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George, I also have been debating where to place the aft davit. Right now I think I will place them between the 3rd and 4th mizzen shrouds also. Depending on the length of the boats, this will move the fore davit aft of the freeing port which seems to agree with the Buttersworth painting. Both Buttersworth and the China trade painting indicate the davits further aft than shown in the plans. I have not yet drilled the holes in the channels as I am waiting to to get to the rigging to see if there are any interference with the braces ect. I have made the davits and the mounting brackets which I will post soon. Currently I am trying to carve the ships boats.. we’ll see how that turns out. Congratulations on a beautiful model. I’ll miss checking on your progress. Rick
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Coming along well!Rick
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Nice!!! Rick
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Great model, great result and great blog!!! I have really enjoyed following along. It’s been quite a journey. Congratulations on a job well done!!’ Rick
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Beautiful George!!!! I reference your blog to see how you did things as I slowly progress. Rick
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Well done Nic!!! what’s going to be your next project? Rick
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Rob, I just came across the pictures of the Snow Squall.. The model is in tha Maine Maritime Museum in Bath Maine, right next to the forefoot of the actual Snow Squall. I have multiple pictures of the model and have used it as a reference for the Flying Fish. Interesting to see the model under construction. Where did you find the pictures? Rick
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Thanks for the advice Nic and George. Will consider sanding if zi can find a way not to damage the wood Rick
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I decided to finish some of the deck fittings before moving on to masting and rigging. The grating by the wheel was made from .04 inch boxwood and the holes were drilled on the milling machine using a .034 drill (which looked about right), spaced at .07 not inches. The holes look a bit to big, approximately 5 inches in scale. These were then marginally squared up the a square file. I decided not to redo the grating in the interest of moving along but I I would make them smaller if I ever do this again. The frame was made from some scrap cherry or mahogany, not sure which. This was sanded down to closer to .032 inches or about 3 scale inches and stained with Ipswich pine. The boxwood doesn’t take stain well, but I like the contrast with the frame. The next item was the water casks. I had already made the decision to make 2 and place them on the sides of the fore cabin per the model of the Snow Squall and the Flying Cloud. I started by shaping a piece of cherry and cutting 2 to length. Previously, I had experimented with some left over holly that I used for planking the decks. This was 1/16 x 1/32. I thinned this to .02 inches on the thickness sander and then reduced the width on the table saw to approximately 1/32 inches. To do this, I cut a slot in a piece of basswood that fit over the blade and kept the holly from breaking and going down the throat by the blade. I also used a piece of sacrificial wood to hold the holly down as it wanted to curl up as it passed through the blade. These stripes were then glued to the casks starting with the ends and then the sides. The chocks were made from boxwood, 4 were cut to length, glued together with Elmers glue, shaped, then immersed in water to separate them. Holes were drilled with a #75 drill bit for the eyebolts that were made from 30 gauge copper wire spun around a #75 drill bit. These were blackened. The straps were cut from copper tape on a paper cutter and glue with cyano by gluing them on the bottom. Once set, they were wrapped around the casks and again glued on the bottom. Unfortunately, these would not blacken and I was left trying to paint them. They also didn’t take the paint well and I’m not pleased with the results. Next time I‘ll paint them first and then cut them. The chocks were rigged first and then slipped over the casks and glue on. There was not enough room to rig the retaining straps with the chocks glued on first.
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Really well done!!! I like your idea of rigging the staysail’s before adding the back stays, with the shrouds holding the masts in place. Rick
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I find that Matt medium works well and is easy to use. Great Job!!! Rick
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This is beautiful George, You are really getting close now !! Very exciting!!
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Roger and ClipperFan, Thanks for your very kind words!!! Every thing seems to take much longer than I expected, and it seems that I have to constantly remake items because I either don’t like the first result or I break something trying to correct it or I just plain loose it when I drop it or it flys out of my fingers/cotton pliers. None of this would be possible if not for EdT’s remarkable books on building the Young America. I have attempted to use the processes he describes in the 3 volume set. I have found them to be invaluable. Without them I would be lost. Roger, your own model is amazing!!! You are truly a master at metal work, which when done well, takes a model to a whole other level. I am learning a lot from your build as well and can only hope to come close to your level at some point. I really like Great Lakes ore carriers, being from Ohio and having lived outside of Cleveland for 36 years. My grandfather was a helmsman on a whale back freighter for a while after WW1. Again, thankyou both for the encouragement. Rick
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Thanks for the info Clipperfan. Very helpful! I tried to bend the sides of the aft cabin to follow the curve of the stern with little success as the sides were built up and too stif to bend adequately without breaking or cracking them. After 6 straight weeks of out of town guests, finally got back to the Fish. Finished the topsail bits, fife rails and bilge pumps. The topsail bits, fife rails and stanchions were made from boxwood. The stanchions were turned on the lathe. The cross piece (bolster?) on the fore topsail bitts is larger than the one on the main bitts as the fore takes the strain on the main stay. I made the straps and shackles from copper sheet and wire per the chain plates for the deadeyes. These were secured to the cross piece with cyan and functional copper bolts. This was the first time I tried them and it worked well I hope. The bilge pumps were made per EdT and YA. I used his plans for them. I wanted to make the fly wheels but ended up using ones from Bluejacket to save time and have something acceptable. The pistons were too short but still difficult to put all together.
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ClipperFan, Good to hear from you. I’ve been following your posts with George and Jared, good information . I have yet to take a close look at the tops as I’m still trying to finish the hull, but will definitely keep your information in mind. Thanks, Rick
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Glad to hear that your case is mild! COViD is confounding for sure. Both my wife and I have had all vaccines and boosters, but my wife came down with Covid a year ago. I did not isolate from her and I didn’t come down with Covid or test positive. I tested every day and stayed negative. I contacted COVID in May but don’t know how I got it. My case was also very mild with no respiratory symptoms at all, just aching, chills and a fever for about 36 hours. Feel better soon!! Rick
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