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Rick310

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  1. Rick310
    Rob, looks great!! And the coppering is superb!!
  2. Rick310
    When I purchased this model some 40 years ago I had no previous woodworking or metalworking experience such as soldering. So obviously choosing this model as my first wooden model ship, I made a good choice! LOL I immediately ran into problems when I started carving the hull in that I was never able to establish or maintain a consistent centerline. I also made the mistake of trying to carve out the bulwarks instead of cutting them out and replacing them with sheet stock. The result is that the hull is not symmetric which caused large problems when it came time to plank the deck and place the main, top gallant and Taffrail and stanchions. The hull and the deck were planked with Holly, which was good for the deck and bad for the hull. The holly, being very flexible, ended up being wavy on the hull, and instead of removing it and replacing it, I ended up sanding it down so that the plank lines were eliminated except at the bow and the stern. I purchased copper sheets for the copper plating, not realizing it came with an adhesive on one side. This was a mess to remove but after that I held the copper sheet over an open flame to discolor it per Eric Romberg and then cut the Copper sheet into strips and cemented it on with contact cement. I did not do a very good job. It looks OK from a distance, but not very good up close. I also made the forward facing bulkhead of the aft cabin house, but more on that later, the main top gallant and taffrails, with stanchions purchased from Bluejacket. I did not like the white metal fittings that came with this kit and decided long ago to replace them or make my own. The replacements from Bluejacket are of much better quality. For references I have made extensive use of Wm Carothers American Built Clipper Ship, Paul Morris’s book on the Benjamin Packard which contains a wealth of information in the photos of the details of the actual ship as well as NRG ship notes, Model Shipways magazine, and mote recently EDT’s superb 3 volume set on the Young America.
  3. Rick310
    Interestingly,the China painting shows the ship’s boats painted black whereas Buttersworth depicts them white. Also, theChina Painting has the fore end of the taffrail , where it turns down, as bright, not painted whereas Buttersworth omitted this detail. I believe the taffrail does not extend as far forward as depicted on the FF plans by Model Shipways. This makes sense to me as the curved part of the rail could function as a hand rail for the ladder/steps up to the poop deck. This is how I choose to model them. I believe that Buttersworth omitted this detail as opposed to the Chinese artist adding something that wasn’t there. The Chinese artist probably had first hand knowledge of FF where as Buttersworth may have painted from descriptions of FF? Just my opinion.
  4. Rick310
  5. Rick310
    Here are the photos of the China trade painting of Flying Fish. Due to the cramped quarters, I couldn’t get a full picture. Although I have the catalog with the picture. I need to dig it out.
  6. Rick310
    This is a picture of the box the model came in. It has been through the wars as you can see.I will add more picture which I started taking about 6 years ago. I would like to add that this is first wood model I have ever made. Since I started the Flying Fish, I did make Blue Jacket’s J24 and I restored a old model that had wood sails.
  7. Rick310
    I have been reading with interest the blogs about buildings Model Shipways Flying Fish. This is opportune for me as I have been building the solid hull version of this model for over 40 years. I have been particularly interested in other builders interpretation of the aft cabin and stem of the Flying Fish. I have been fortunate in that I was able to observe and photograph the china trade painting of the Flying Fish when it was up for auction in 2005(?) at Northeast Auctions.. Since then we have all benefited from the pictures of the Flying Fish painting by James Buttersworth that is now available to view online. Both these paintings have cleared up questions about the ship such as mast and bowsprit colors aft cabin face and to some degree, the figurehead. While I think I am the only builder building the solid haul version, I will attempt to relate my own experience building this model and the results of my own research and thoughts. I hope you did this interesting.
  8. Rick310
    I am still trying to figure out how to do that I am a technological dinosaur
  9. Rick310
    Rob, I’ve been collecting nautical antiques for the last 30+ years. Moved to Maine a little over two years ago from Cleveland. Congratulations on being retired I’m supposed to be hopefully soon as practice is interfering too much with my modeling.!!!
  10. Rick310
    Those are actually copper strips .02 at 1/32 width that I cut on the Byrnes table saw . I used a center punch and hand drilled the holes with a #75 drill bit per EdT modified to my limited ability and lack of experience. The other chain plates are3/64 wide
  11. Rick310
    Rob, Beautiful job on Glory!! I understand from Nic at Blue Jacket that you are also a DDS/DMD
  12. Rick310
    Thanks Rob. I started this model 40 years ago when it was a solid hull model
  13. Rick310
    Note brackets under the chain plates
  14. Rick310
    I believe that these are brackets supporting the lower channel. These are shown on the plans for the flying fish.
  15. Rick310
    I have been considering that.
  16. Rick310
    It’s solid hull that I bought in 1980-1981. I did plank the hull but lost most of the lines when I sanded it This is my first attempt at a wood model. I started it when I got it but went decades when I didn’t touch it. Back into now. And as pointed out by others, the castings are really bad.
  17. Rick310
    I am replacing the windlass that came with my Flying Fish kit (40yrs old) with a beautiful windlass from Blue jacket. Their castings are really well done. The rest I am attempting to make myself including the figurehead
  18. Rick310
    I drilled the hawse holes on my Fish parallel to the centerline. It was difficult to determine from the plans but seemed reasonable that one would want the chain to exit straight and not have a bend in the chain as the anchor fell away
  19. Rick310
    In one of the earlier post it was stated that the waterways were placed on top of the deck planks. I believe that the waterways were actually butted against the inside of the bulwarks and let into the deck beams. The decking was then butted against the waterways and laid on top of the deck beams. Really great work everybody!! Rick
  20. Rick310
    While different structural members were called the clamps, beam clamps etc., the clamp I am referring to is a piece of wood between the bottom of the main rail to the top of the pin rail which lowers the height of the pin rail also called the rack rail. This is specifically mentioned in Duncan McLean‘s description of the westward Ho and men Langford when he revised his owner plans of the flying fish added this detail. However according to William Crothers The rack rail for the flying fish was attached to the underside of the main rail as well as the temper heads. Yes this seems to be the more common position of the pin rail. I’ve included a picture from Crothers book. I hope this explains what I’m talking about. Also in the paining I can’t trio If the rails were painted or less bright and a different color avoid in the timber heads
  21. Rick310
    Ed, first let me congratulate you on the magnificent three book series building the young America. it is an invaluable resource for model shipbuilding and certainly sets the bar for for the rest of us to strive for!. I I have a paining by Charles Ogilvy of the New Castle Maine build Clippership Golden Rule. The painting clearly shows an iron railing around the stern and belaying pin rail exactly as you modeled for the Young America. I thought you might find this interesting. Great job, regards Rick
  22. Rick310
    This is the Bark I L Skolfield Note the red mask bands as well as the Bulwarks and the clamp separating the pin rail from the main rail which is painted, where as the rails appear to be bright.
  23. Rick310
    Rob, I have been following your blog for many months now with much interest! I seem to remember having read that glories stem was damaged and the iron bars that run from her naval hood to her stem were added to support the stem at that time. As Regards to her color, all the articles written by Ducan McLean Describing Donald McKay build ships, all had blue waterways. I am not aware of any that were described with waterways that had any other color other than blue. Ben Langford, when he upgraded the flying fish for model ship Ways described pearl as a light gray color, as opposed to buff, a light brown color? if Glory’s bulwarks are described as pearl trimmed in white, it seems to me to indicate that the interior bulwark planking was painted pearl with the tlmberheads highlighted in white. This will be a quite attractive combination. I have a China Tradetrade painting of the bark IL Schofield which shows clearly the interior bulwarks painted white with the timber heads left bright. Both the pin rail,the main rail and the inside of the top gallant rail are also bright. If I knew how to post a picture from my iPhone I would be happy to share this. Keep up the great work and really well done on the stanchions. Also, as regards to contemporary paintings light gray is going to look white from a distance. Rick
  24. Rick310
    I drilled the holes for the vents in the plank sheer with a pen vice prior to installing the plank sheer. I then set the vents (which provide air circulation in between the frames to prevent rot) and then added the rails ,sieves Ext. I remember it being quite a task to get them all lined up correctly at the same height.

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