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John Ruy

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Everything posted by John Ruy

  1. Booms and Gaffs… Dowels cut to length… Lots of sanding needed to shape the dowels. Note from instructions: Spar tapers: Fishing schooners are a little different from other ships. Notice on the plans that the forward side of masts, lower side of gaffs and bowsprit, and top side of booms is a straight line. This is done to better match the sail or position mast hoops. All other faces are tapered. To avoid confusion, identify the straight side on each spar with a pencil mark at both ends. Taper the dowel with a file. Or, lightly slice it with a hobby blade or small plane, then sand to its final shape. Using a lathe or electric drill to taper these dowels doesn’t work due to the straight edge. Close enough… Rinse and repeat for the remaining Booms and Gaffs. Booms and Gaffs all shaped to specification and ready for Details. Main Boom Details… Main Boom Jaws Boom Tackle Band Rope Eye for Lazy Jack Line Quarter Lift Band Main Sheet Band Sheaves for Topping Lift Topping Lift Band Clew Band Main Boom Complete 1 of 5 Booms and Gaffs done… Cheers 🍻
  2. Greg, It really depends on how you plan to display the sails. By that I mean the placement of the booms. As you can see in the Fore Boom details below, the only attachment between the Dory Stacks is the Sheet Tackle to the Boom Buffer Ring. This is just aft of the Dory Stacks. The other Ring Bolts on the deck are unused save for the Dory Tie Downs. the Rigging and Blocks on the Fore Boom itself, including the lacing of the Sail will be done on the Fore Boom before placing it between the Dories. That said you may have the better idea, waiting to tie down the Dories. However, you will want to mount the Dory Stacks before any Shrouds are placed or running rigging is belayed on the Pins along the Rails. You can always build the Dories on the Dory Kids and permanently attach them later after you have the Fore Boom placed. It’s up to you. As for me, my lot has been drawn, I will be working the Fore Boom around the Dory Stacks. 😆 I will let you know how that goes. LOL As for the Main Boom Crutch, I will most likely present both Sails leaning into the Sheet lines and not sitting stowed on the Crutches. I hope this discussion was helpful. 🍻 John
  3. Awesome work, nice progress. I agree, anchors can be a bit tricky to display. Looks great. 👍 John
  4. Nice 👍 work on the Chain Plates and deadeyes. Your barrels and bait cutting stations look great.
  5. Thanks Phil, I have found your suggestion of wire brushing with the dremel tool and a rinse in acetone has improved my blackening process. I did discover that an over stay in the blackening solution actually scales the black off the brass and copper. 10-15 seconds after a good bath in Acetone has produced good results for me. John
  6. Missed Details… Before moving on to Booms And Gaffs, I thought I would review some rigging detail on Sheet 6. I wanted to double check that I had placed “all” of the eyelets, etc… needed to tie off the rigging. My review paid off… The Jumbo Jib Boom Traveler Block and the Jumbo Jib Stay Bail had not been placed. An eyelet for the Inhaul Tackle needed to be placed. I had forgotten that I intended to include the clutch levers for the Hoisting Engine Gear Assembly. Needed to place 4 eyelets on the rail between the 3rd and 4th Lower Shrouds. Also needed Eyelets for the Main Throat and Peak Halliards. And the Halliards on the Fore Mast as well as the Jumbo Jib Sheet Traveler Horse. Also 2 eyelets and a staple on the Bowsprit for Halliards and Bob Stays. I hope I found all of the missing attachments. 😜 These would be rather difficult to place after the shrouds and standing rigging are completed. So many details… Now, I think I can move on to Booms and Gaffs… Cheers 🍻
  7. Been there, space was always the problem and $$$. 😆 Ship modeling is much more reasonable, when you work out the cost over a per annual basis. Beautiful model railroading work, Yves. 👍 John
  8. Thanks Greg… I have been using Testors Flat Black Enamel and Brass Black on other pieces. The Main Mast Eye Bands were all Brass Black. I’ve gotten the process down pretty well now, I’ll probably use the Brass Black going forward. Got to build the Booms and Gaffs before I start rigging, but yep getting closer. Thanks again for you comments… John
  9. Research 🧐 into the ownership of the original Bluenose. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angus_Walters Captain and part owner of the Bluenose, Angus James Walters. Interesting a Committee of Halifax Businessmen came together to build the Bluenose as Fishing Schooner that could win races internationally. Good stuff… It really was built as a racing schooner. Bluenose was constructed by Smith and Rhuland in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia. The schooner's keel was laid in 1920. The Governor General the Duke of Devonshire drove a golden spike into the timber during the keel-laying ceremony.[8] She was launched on 26 March 1921, and christened by Audrey Smith, daughter of the shipbuilding Richard Smith.[9][10] She was built to be a racing ship and fishing vessel, in response to the defeat of the Nova Scotian fishing schooner Delawana by the Gloucester, Massachusetts, fishing schooner Esperanto in 1920, in a race sponsored by the Halifax Herald newspaper.[11] https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluenose#:~:text=Bluenose's captain and part,schooner reached the racing port.
  10. Fore Topmast complete… Replaced the CA glued Hilliard Shackles with the newly soldered one. Touched up the top tapper and placed the Gilt Ball. I cut off a white sewing pin 1/8” from the head a C A glued it in place. Trucks for the Flag Halliard Re so small at this scale, I will represent the truck with black thread. Now maybe I can move on to the Main Topmast. Cheers 🍻
  11. Just found this 8.5x11 sheet of Bluenose Flags on Ships of Scale. https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/attachments/bluenose-pdf.200877/ Bluenose.pdf
  12. Thanks Hamilton… Nope, I have never been a jeweler, LOL. Just working on my new skill sets to keep up with all you watchmakers out there. A steady hand and a good Optomitrist, helps. Oh! And a lot of help from my friends on MSW. 👍
  13. Thanks Phil, for the tip this should help my cleaning for my blackening process. I’m cleaning with Acetone but the brass black comes out spotty. John
  14. Tested… The shackles seem to be holding up. I do have to do one of these for the Main Topmast as well. So I thought I would give this a shot. Here is the process… Inside diameter brass ring 7/64” Applied flux prior to soldering and soldered the ring closed. Drilled holes to hang shackles. Needed this step to get a good mechanical connection for soldering. Applied flux and soldered. The metal alligator clip is a good heat sink to keep heat from getting to previous solder joint. Needs cleaning up. Filed inside wire and excess solder. Blackened and touched up with Testors Flat Black Enamel. I am having trouble getting a good black coat with the Brass Black only. Cheers 🍻
  15. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flag_of_Nova_Scotia#:~:text=The flag of Nova Scotia,the province's coat of arms. Adopted in 1929 after a royal warrant was issued, it has been the flag of the province since January 19 of that year. I will probably fly this flag as well. 😎
  16. Beautiful… That would be a great model to build, if we could source the plans. 👍
  17. That’s OK… You saved me the embarrassment. Great Flag, much better than the Maple Leaf adopted in 1965. It’s all about the details. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canadian_Red_Ensign
  18. We are about find out if I can solder the small @Dr PR has presented me with the challenge and I will give it a shot. I didn’t know I was looking for a Canadian Red Ensign flag. I was planning on using the flag supplied in the kit. Looks like you’re right though, we probably need to make our own. Now that you brought it up I’ll have to… Thanks
  19. Thanks Phil, for your confidence in my abilities regarding soldering. I will have to test the bond today and we will see if they hold up. I just may have to attempt soldering those shackles. I’ll let you all know how this experiment comes out. John
  20. Just when I thought parts couldn’t get any smaller… No way, could I solder this piece. CA glue to the rescue. I hope 🤞 Cheers 🍻
  21. WOW! Nice progress on those detailed deck items. Thanks for the reminder, I actually have a copy of that book. Just found it, I had forgotten it was under other reference materials. Looks like lots of good info on rigging. We will need it when we start tying knots. 🧐 I like how your windlass come out, good job. 👍
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