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John Ruy

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Everything posted by John Ruy

  1. John Ruy
    Missed Details… Before moving on to Booms And Gaffs, I thought I would review some rigging detail on Sheet 6. I wanted to double check that I had placed “all” of the eyelets, etc… needed to tie off the rigging. My review paid off… The Jumbo Jib Boom Traveler Block and the Jumbo Jib Stay Bail had not been placed. An eyelet for the Inhaul Tackle needed to be placed. I had forgotten that I intended to include the clutch levers for the Hoisting Engine Gear Assembly. Needed to place 4 eyelets on the rail between the 3rd and 4th Lower Shrouds. Also needed Eyelets for the Main Throat and Peak Halliards. And the Halliards on the Fore Mast as well as the Jumbo Jib Sheet Traveler Horse. Also 2 eyelets and a staple on the Bowsprit for Halliards and Bob Stays. I hope I found all of the missing attachments. 😜 These would be rather difficult to place after the shrouds and standing rigging are completed. So many details… Now, I think I can move on to Booms and Gaffs… Cheers 🍻
  2. John Ruy
    Been there, space was always the problem and $$$. 😆 Ship modeling is much more reasonable, when you work out the cost over a per annual basis. Beautiful model railroading work, Yves. 👍 John
  3. John Ruy
    Thanks Greg… I have been using Testors Flat Black Enamel and Brass Black on other pieces. The Main Mast Eye Bands were all Brass Black. I’ve gotten the process down pretty well now, I’ll probably use the Brass Black going forward. Got to build the Booms and Gaffs before I start rigging, but yep getting closer. Thanks again for you comments… John
  4. John Ruy
    Main Top Mast… Main and Fore Top Masts are completed. Cheers 🍻
  5. John Ruy
    Research 🧐 into the ownership of the original Bluenose. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angus_Walters Captain and part owner of the Bluenose, Angus James Walters. Interesting a Committee of Halifax Businessmen came together to build the Bluenose as Fishing Schooner that could win races internationally. Good stuff… It really was built as a racing schooner. Bluenose was constructed by Smith and Rhuland in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia. The schooner's keel was laid in 1920. The Governor General the Duke of Devonshire drove a golden spike into the timber during the keel-laying ceremony.[8] She was launched on 26 March 1921, and christened by Audrey Smith, daughter of the shipbuilding Richard Smith.[9][10] She was built to be a racing ship and fishing vessel, in response to the defeat of the Nova Scotian fishing schooner Delawana by the Gloucester, Massachusetts, fishing schooner Esperanto in 1920, in a race sponsored by the Halifax Herald newspaper.[11] https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluenose#:~:text=Bluenose's captain and part,schooner reached the racing port.
  6. John Ruy
    Fore Topmast complete… Replaced the CA glued Hilliard Shackles with the newly soldered one. Touched up the top tapper and placed the Gilt Ball. I cut off a white sewing pin 1/8” from the head a C A glued it in place. Trucks for the Flag Halliard Re so small at this scale, I will represent the truck with black thread. Now maybe I can move on to the Main Topmast. Cheers 🍻
  7. John Ruy
    Just found this 8.5x11 sheet of Bluenose Flags on Ships of Scale. https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/attachments/bluenose-pdf.200877/ Bluenose.pdf
  8. John Ruy
    Great info… Thanks
  9. John Ruy
    Thanks Hamilton… Nope, I have never been a jeweler, LOL. Just working on my new skill sets to keep up with all you watchmakers out there. A steady hand and a good Optomitrist, helps. Oh! And a lot of help from my friends on MSW. 👍
  10. John Ruy
    Thanks Phil, for the tip this should help my cleaning for my blackening process. I’m cleaning with Acetone but the brass black comes out spotty. John
  11. John Ruy
    Tested… The shackles seem to be holding up. I do have to do one of these for the Main Topmast as well. So I thought I would give this a shot. Here is the process… Inside diameter brass ring 7/64” Applied flux prior to soldering and soldered the ring closed. Drilled holes to hang shackles. Needed this step to get a good mechanical connection for soldering. Applied flux and soldered. The metal alligator clip is a good heat sink to keep heat from getting to previous solder joint. Needs cleaning up. Filed inside wire and excess solder. Blackened and touched up with Testors Flat Black Enamel. I am having trouble getting a good black coat with the Brass Black only. Cheers 🍻
  12. John Ruy
    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flag_of_Nova_Scotia#:~:text=The flag of Nova Scotia,the province's coat of arms. Adopted in 1929 after a royal warrant was issued, it has been the flag of the province since January 19 of that year. I will probably fly this flag as well. 😎
  13. John Ruy
    Beautiful… That would be a great model to build, if we could source the plans. 👍
  14. John Ruy
    That’s OK… You saved me the embarrassment. Great Flag, much better than the Maple Leaf adopted in 1965. It’s all about the details. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canadian_Red_Ensign
  15. John Ruy
    We are about find out if I can solder the small @Dr PR has presented me with the challenge and I will give it a shot. I didn’t know I was looking for a Canadian Red Ensign flag. I was planning on using the flag supplied in the kit. Looks like you’re right though, we probably need to make our own. Now that you brought it up I’ll have to… Thanks
  16. John Ruy
    Thanks Phil, for your confidence in my abilities regarding soldering. I will have to test the bond today and we will see if they hold up. I just may have to attempt soldering those shackles. I’ll let you all know how this experiment comes out. John
  17. John Ruy
    Just when I thought parts couldn’t get any smaller… No way, could I solder this piece. CA glue to the rescue. I hope 🤞 Cheers 🍻
  18. John Ruy
    WOW! Nice progress on those detailed deck items. Thanks for the reminder, I actually have a copy of that book. Just found it, I had forgotten it was under other reference materials. Looks like lots of good info on rigging. We will need it when we start tying knots. 🧐 I like how your windlass come out, good job. 👍
  19. John Ruy
    Fore Mast Tackle Sheave… Second attempt… On to the Main Topmast. 😎
  20. John Ruy
    Thanks… I agree, the excitement begins to build at this stage. I just hope every attachment point is there when I start the rigging. 😆 It’s a lot! LOL Still have recut the Mast Tackle Sheave. Had to use wood filler on the first attempt, it was pretty bad. Details! 🤪
  21. John Ruy
    Fore Topmast… From sheet 4, this post covers everything you see here. These are the most detailed plans I have worked with to date. This “kit” is the most challenging build for me, stretching my skills and teaching me some new ones. 🧐 Throat Halliard Crane with Link Halliard Bands Iron Gate Spring Stay Bail Band Fore Topmast Heel Iron Fid Mast Cap Tapering the Fore Topmast Amber Shellac = Natural Oiled Finish Fore Topmast Complete 😎 Now we are starting to look like a tall ship. Up Next: Main Topmast Cheers 🍻
  22. John Ruy
    Yves, Wow! Excellent detail on the iron bands. The details just keep coming on this build. John
  23. John Ruy
    One more idea that’s really simple. I built this case and was quite happy with a black lacquer.
  24. John Ruy
    Nice! I’ve been tossing an excellent source of fine metals for years. Cheers🍷
  25. John Ruy
    Correction to previous post… As I proceeded to build hardware for the Trestle Trees and Spreaders, I discovered an error in cutting into the masts too deeply. The result was the Trestle Trees being to close together to accept the top mast heel. I therefore had to rebuild both Trestle Tree assemblies and patch both masts. The following is how I corrected my mistake. Here we can see the Trestle Trees are too close together to accept the Top Mast Heel. After disassembling the spreader trestle tree assembly and removing the Cheeks from the mast. I split a piece of dowel to fill in the deeply cut mast. Using PVA glue and clamping I restructured the mast. Lots of sanding required… A fresh coat of Amber Shellac and we are ready to start over. Here we go with attempt 2.0. Mark where the Cheeks are to be placed. Carve a flat space on both sides of the mast. Verify the proper widths required. Here we can clearly see the patch in the mast. Reassemble the Trestle Tree and spreaders. See previous post… Proper width achieved, mistake corrected. Rinse and repeat with the Main Mast. Cheers 🍻

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