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John Ruy

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Everything posted by John Ruy

  1. Thanks… I agree, the excitement begins to build at this stage. I just hope every attachment point is there when I start the rigging. 😆 It’s a lot! LOL Still have recut the Mast Tackle Sheave. Had to use wood filler on the first attempt, it was pretty bad. Details! 🤪
  2. Fore Topmast… From sheet 4, this post covers everything you see here. These are the most detailed plans I have worked with to date. This “kit” is the most challenging build for me, stretching my skills and teaching me some new ones. 🧐 Throat Halliard Crane with Link Halliard Bands Iron Gate Spring Stay Bail Band Fore Topmast Heel Iron Fid Mast Cap Tapering the Fore Topmast Amber Shellac = Natural Oiled Finish Fore Topmast Complete 😎 Now we are starting to look like a tall ship. Up Next: Main Topmast Cheers 🍻
  3. Yves, Wow! Excellent detail on the iron bands. The details just keep coming on this build. John
  4. One more idea that’s really simple. I built this case and was quite happy with a black lacquer.
  5. Nice! I’ve been tossing an excellent source of fine metals for years. Cheers🍷
  6. Correction to previous post… As I proceeded to build hardware for the Trestle Trees and Spreaders, I discovered an error in cutting into the masts too deeply. The result was the Trestle Trees being to close together to accept the top mast heel. I therefore had to rebuild both Trestle Tree assemblies and patch both masts. The following is how I corrected my mistake. Here we can see the Trestle Trees are too close together to accept the Top Mast Heel. After disassembling the spreader trestle tree assembly and removing the Cheeks from the mast. I split a piece of dowel to fill in the deeply cut mast. Using PVA glue and clamping I restructured the mast. Lots of sanding required… A fresh coat of Amber Shellac and we are ready to start over. Here we go with attempt 2.0. Mark where the Cheeks are to be placed. Carve a flat space on both sides of the mast. Verify the proper widths required. Here we can clearly see the patch in the mast. Reassemble the Trestle Tree and spreaders. See previous post… Proper width achieved, mistake corrected. Rinse and repeat with the Main Mast. Cheers 🍻
  7. WARNING ⚠️ Mistakes made during assembly in the post. Please proceed to the following post for correct assembly of the Trestle Trees and Spreaders. Trestle Trees… Main Mast Trestle Tree complete ready for paint and hardware. Rinse and Repeat for the Fore Mast. Trestle Trees painted ready for hardware. Back to foundry with another Mast Cap. Next: Nine Eye Bands to build for the top of the Fore and Main Masts. Cheers 🍻
  8. Futtock Shroud Band… More Metal Work practice…. Band shaped and soldered to fit proper height on the Main Mast. Drill holes and insert wire to form shackles. Solder shackles in place. Use alligator clips to sink heat away from previous solder joints. File excess solder and shape brass. Repeat opposite side… Clip excess wire inside and file inside diameter smooth. Drilling out the excess solder that flowed into the shackle. (0.8 mm) Blacken after a bath in Acetone. Futtock Shroud complete… Ready to build Trestle Trees. Cheers 🍻
  9. Mast Hoops… These need to be prepared and added to the mast “before” the trestle trees are built. If you forget… Immediately, I noticed these were not your typical laser cut parts. The laser did not cut through the bottom ply. This made for very tedious cutting and several broken blades. 😣 The small hoops were fine, popped right out. 😆 After sanding and staining the hoops are ready to go. Mast Hoops complete… Cheers 🍻
  10. Thanks for your comments Hamilton, you are right, no shortcuts to this hobby🤪. It just takes practice and time. I have plenty of time, I had no idea what kind of detail was involved with this particular kit. Got to Love it… Take your time on those Dories, it’s worth it. You don’t have to do all eight, unless you need the practice. 😂 John
  11. Hi Rich, thanks for your comment. The shank of the 3/16” drill bit was used to bend the flat brass strip into the shape of a ring with a 3/16” inside diameter to fit the fore mast top. The .9 mm hole is drilled after soldering the rings together. I got the two photos out of proper sequence. My apologies… I’ll fix the sequence and hope that answers your question. John
  12. BTW… the base is not heavy. It would need to be screwed down if you want to tug on it.
  13. I’m not either, but I’m getting better at it. Takes practice this model will definitely give you the opportunity to practice. Took me several attempts and hours to get what you see here. You need the right tools. 👍
  14. I like it too, I’ve had it a very long time. I don’t remember where I got it, but I found one at your favorite delivery service. PANAVISE Model 201 "Junior" Miniature Vise,Silver / Black https://a.co/d/f4guiqj
  15. Opening up my Micro Foundry… Fore Mast Cap… 3/16” Drill bit… Soldering .9 mm drill bit complete assembly additional soldering Still working on my soldering skill set. Lots of micro filing needed to clean this up. Cleaning with Acetone Blackening Brush off excess crud to polish it up. 3 of 99 parts to go. Steady as she goes. Cheers 🍻
  16. Beautiful work! Looks like you are making great progress. You did it again, thought I was done with the deck but forgot the Jumbo Job Sheet Traveler Horse. I thought I triple check those drawings. 😜 Lots of details to capture. I’m going to fix that right now. Thanks
  17. Deck Furnishings complete… Although my goal was realism in the storage of 16 oars and 20 Thwarts in the top Dory, which I believe I achieved, I don’t like the look. So, I have opted to place 8 oars neatly laid out in the top Dory on each side. I think it’s a much better presentation. The Deck is complete, just over a year since I started this project. It was July 18 2022 when I opened the box. I estimate 600 hours a year based on my first build where I actually tracked my hours. 😆 We are ready to go aloft! Thank you all for your comments, likes and encouragement a long the way. Cheers 🍻
  18. On second thought… I will probably go for all the glory of my inspiration photo. I have looking at this photo on my bench for three years now. Steady as she goes… 🍻
  19. We got a ways to go before we can set those sails. Cheers 🍻
  20. Batten Platform… @GGibson Thanks for the reminder, I nearly forgot to place this small but important detail. I used 1/32” Mahogany, only because I didn’t have the 1/64” material in a hardwood. I think we can overlook the over scale on this one, just this once. 😆
  21. Yes, I have considered silk span. Definitely an option for a smaller scale. I like to use muslin materials, however the material in kits is usually too heavy. This photo shows two kit supplied “sail cloth” and a third locally sourced (JoAnn Fabrics) muslin fabric. Muslin fabrics are not all created equal. The bottom one is the locally purchased muslin. My goal is to create the full sail and fold it down as in the photos below, with all of the stitched and rope detail. 😎 If the sails won’t cooperate, then I’ll set sails up full with fair winds. I believe I can do this at this scale. Wish me luck. 🍻
  22. You are correct, schooners needed to be slid down the ways before they weighed too much. If you look closely at the launching photos in the archives, nothing was done regarding rigging until launch. As for folding the sails down on the booms the sail material has to be very thin to represent the furled or folded sails properly. Most kit sail materials are not fine enough. I have some thinner material that I’ll have to experiment with, once I get the sails sewn up, to decided if I leave them up or bring them down on the booms and fore deck. Decisions and Research 🧐 to be done for sure.
  23. I know it’s a little detail, but for me it’s all about the detail. 🧐 BTW… A launching way sounds like a nice display. I haven’t done one of those yet. I’m considering sails hauled down and stowed, myself. Steady as she goes. Cheers 🍻
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