Jump to content

John Ruy

NRG Member
  • Posts

    1,388
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by John Ruy

  1. Nice build so far… Looks like we are at about the same stage on our Bluenose builds. I’ll pull up a chair, we can keep tabs on each other. I’ll PM you some photos, that should help… John
  2. Thanks for your comments, are you building the Bluenose II or the original? Here is a vintage photo of the original Bluenose just before it was sold. I’m trying to strike a balance, using the Bluenose II photos as a guide to my finishes but build her as the original. Do you have a build log posted? Cheers 🍻
  3. Pumps and another Hatch… Up next, The Cabin… Details… Here are a couple of photos I took on board the Bluenose II. Cheers 🍻
  4. Main Mast and Fife Rail… Laser cut parts for the Fife Rail. Did someone say “tedious”? Repaired… Next step, repair the knees. NOTE: Knees were on up side down. 😬 Love my new micro drill bits… Knees look better. 😆 Used paper strip for mast coat. Laser cut Boom Rest needed a bushing to fit the mast. Again, paper strip… Snatch Blocks… More “tedious” detail. Chocks for Boom Rest. Paint White with Semi Gloss Poly. Galvanized Metal Chafing Peace for Main Boom Jaws. Completed Main Mast Fife Rail. Next up, another Hatch and Pumps. Cheers 🍻
  5. Yes, when the Dories were stowed they removed the Thwarts and Oars so the Dories could nest in a stack and then placed them in the last Dory to be stacked. No need to build more than can be seen. 👍
  6. Only the two on top have been fitted inboard. I’m not that crazy. 😜 I do still have Sixteen pairs of oars to carve out and stow in the top of the Dories. John
  7. Cathead remake… Below are photos of the Catheads on the Bluenose replica Bluenose II. After being in Nova Scotia and seeing the Bluenose II, I decided I needed to rework the Catheads. The MS kit supplied metal parts for the Catheads were just too small to look correct to me. Here is a photo of the kit supplied parts. I replaced the parts with my own build of the Catheads. Brass needed to be painted to look galvanized. I used Testor’s Flat Aluminum Enamel. I’m much happier with Cathead version 2.0. Cheers 🍻
  8. The right tools can make all the difference in the struggles. 😜 Soldering Iron Premium Kit, 60W Soldering Gun with Ceramic Heater, 12-in-1 Soldering Tool, Adjustable Temperature 200 to 450°C, Includes Soldering Iron Tip, Solder Wire, Pump and Paste https://a.co/d/70GVtiS Cheers 🍻
  9. An eBay search will yield many choices. Good prices🍻 https://www.ebay.com/itm/145275231804?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=cPgOyRMKSxK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=saHjlWAtSV-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/394472180685?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=koWLSQuSTmC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=saHjlWAtSV-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  10. You’ll get the hang of it, I did. I only post the success, plenty of fails before I got it right. LOL 😆
  11. Eye Bands… Using kit supplied brass strip and brass nails, jigged up eye band per instructions and soldered. Note to self: buy a smaller tipped soldering iron. Drill eyes before trimming tabs. Eye Bands fitted. Easy? NOT! Paint flat black to represent iron. 2 of 17 eye bands completed. Should get easier with practice. New soldering kit order. Cheers 🍻
  12. Phil, Following your build log has been a true learning experience. Thank you for documenting the details of your thought processes as well as your construction techniques. Awesome! 😎
  13. Corrected Coaming detail to Forward Companionway and Metal Band on Foremast Pin Saddle. Began working on Eye Bands for the Bow Sprit. 🍻
  14. Your wheel holds up to photo magnification. 👍 As for the yellow you may want to try a poly sealer semi gloss to brighten up the tone. Looks good. 👍
  15. The detail just never ends. Incredible work Yves. 🍻
  16. I used a jig taken from the Model Shipways Instruction booklet. Is this what your looking for? John
×
×
  • Create New...